Cathiard Aux Malconsorts & Cheval Blanc

Vinmøte Roar 27. september 2018

Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière 1998, Domaine G. Roumier
En moden burgund, litt generisk og kjedelig flat i uttrykket. Sliten allerede. Men jeg har egentlig aldri blitt imponert av vinen. 89 poeng

Tom H sier følgende etter en smaking av denne vinen i flere årganger:

2004 var i ferd med å starte nedturen, men gav god drikkeglede med en gang, 89p.

-05 var en gedigen skuffelse, og flasken kan ikke ha vært korrekt, N/R.

Derimot var 07 nær perfekt moden med rød frukt og jordlige undertoner, deilig vin - 92 poeng.

2008 var WOTN, perfekt moden med jordlige toner, nedslipte tanniner og balansert syre, 93p. Kanskje den beste røde -08 jeg har smakt.

2009 var for ung, dette blir litt mye søtladen frukt, men vil nok vinne på ytterligere kjellertid, nå 90 p.

2010 hadde dagens nese! pinot essens, røde bær, granateple, litt tobakk, godt strukturert vin med bra lengde. Trekker litt for et litt hult midtparti.

2012 opplever jeg som stengt, men også usikker på om dette kan holde!

-13 fremstår som stilkete, grov og undermoden - vin for selvpinere!

2014 hadde kanskje kveldens nese sammen med -10?besnærende med rødfrukt og tonn med krydder. Viser også antydning til modning med en farge som gir hint i den retningenen.

2015 er lang, ren, fruktig med en lett steinbitterhet i avsluttningen. Bra konsentrasjon, men dette trenger selvsagt tid.

2016 er noe reduktiv til tross for at den ble dobbeldekantert 12 timer før smakingen! Vinen har saftig rødbærsfrukt, mynte og et teft av pipetobakk. Flott fruktkvalitet - dette blir svært bra om noe år, 93p nå.

Cote Rotie 1999, Jamet
En deilig moden CR. Frisk, har mistet endel klassisk sursødme. God flaske. 92-94 poeng



Chateau Figeac 1982, St. Emilion
Korket, ikke vurdert

Chateau Cheval Blanc 1986, St. Emilion

Ikke så gal erstatningsvin når Figeac`en var korka !  Solid, grønn, kald og klassisk Cabernet Franc. En time i karaffel hadde gjort seg ! Noe vegetalsk og det ble litt uenighet mht. poeng. 92-94 poeng. Kim hadde en flaske i januar19 som var stunning (97p)

Vosne-Romanèe "aux Malconsorts" 2011, Domaine S. Cathiard
Krydret og rik frukt, overraskende frempå og likandes for en årgang som ofte får et grønt og vegetalt preg. Ung og bør lagres. 93 poeng.

Fra winehog:

One of the most acclaimed 1er crus made in Vosne-Romanee is the Aux Malconsorts from Domaine Sylvain Cathiard.

The quality of the Cathiard wines has improved rapidly over the last dacade, and with Sebastien Cathiard in charge since the 2011 vintage, Cathiard is now among the very very best producers in Vosne-Romanee.

Photo: Sebastian Cathiard – Domaine Cathiard

In my view the Malconsorts is sort of a signature wine for this fine domaine … yes I know the RSV is better … but it’s still possible to find and pay for the Malconsort and experience the Cathiard magic.

Early history of Vosne-Romanee Malconsorts

Some sources indicate that the Les Malconsorts vineyard was established relatively late – as it was transformed from scrubland to vineyard in 16107. According to the Burgundian etymologist Marie-Hélène Landrieu-Lussigny the name Mal-consorts refers to “a patch of ground covered with thorny brush that is difficult to clear”6. There is however also, according to Allen Meadows, evidence that a part of Malconsorts was established already in 1482 …

Despite the name and the previous vegetation – Lavalle1 (1855) considered Les Malconsorts to be among the very best vineyards in Vosne-Romanne – giving it a “Premiere Cuvee” rating along with Romanee Saint-Vivant, Les Gaudichots, La Grande Rue, Les Verroilles sous Richebourg , Les Beaux-Monts, Combe Brulee, Aux Brulees and Les Suchots. Quite many of these are now classified as grand cru.

The names Les Malconsorts and Aux Malconsorts are currently both being used for wines from this vineyard. It is not to be confused with the Au-dessus des Malconsorts – a 1.08 ha vineyard located just above Malconsorts.

The area of Malconsorts seem to have been relatively stable over the years – the current area of 5.86 ha is just marginally lover than the area (5 ha, 94 ares and 95 cents) mentioned by Lavalle in 1855.

Aux Malconsort is located just south of the mighty La Tâche on the border to Nuits-Saint-Georges – see map below, where the Cathiard plot is indicated with a red dot.

The current ownership on Aux Malconsorts

The Cathiard plot on Malconsorts is located in the top middle part of the vineyard – no 4 on the map below. The plot is 0.7435 ha, and is north of the plot of Hudelot-Noellat and south of one of the plots owned by the Montille family.

Below is list over the current owners on Aux Malconsorts corresponding to the numbers on the map:

1. Domaine du Clos Frantin (Albert Bichot) – 1.7766 ha
2. Domaine Montille – 1.3700 ha
3. Domaine Dujac – 1.3313 ha
4. Domaine Sylvain Cathiard – 0.7435 ha
5. Domaine Lamarche – 0.4999 ha
6. Domaine Hudelot Noellat – 0.1370 ha

The Cathiard plot was according to Clive Coates acquired from a Felix Noëllat in 19709 – and was replanted in 1972. This makes sense since the plot is located next to the Hudelot-Noellat plot … which also originates from the Noëllat holdings.

1999

Vinmøte Roar 27. september 2018

Se hva Galloni sier om årgangen i Piemonte:

1999 Barolo: Brilliance, Intensity and Class

A light snow fell as I drove up the winding hillsides of La Morra on a dark, shrouded evening in March 2003. I had never seen snow at that time of the year in Piedmont, but fortunately it wasn't too bad. A business trip in Genoa that week provided a good excuse to escape to La Morra for the night. I was more than happy to make the two and half hour commute each way just to spend some time in these magical hillsides.

Elio Altare's Insieme group was putting on a tasting of the 1999 Barolos at the Cantina Comunale in the center of town. I had already tasted many of the wines on previous trips, but this was my first large tasting of the 1999s. As I walked from table to table I was blown away by what I tasted. The 1999 Barolos were simply stunning. I just loved the energy and tension of what I sampled. The wines were so alive. I knew right then that 1999 was going to be a great vintage for Barolo.

Barolo as seen from the Ravera vineyard in Novello

As the months passed, very little was said or written about the 1999 vintage in Barolo or Piedmont. All the attention was on the 2000s. I had tasted plenty of those wines too, and they were gorgeous, especially from barrel. No doubt about it. But the 1999s had something more. More power, intensity, structure, and, most important of all, a quality I have always been taught to seek in Nebbiolo; namely the ability of a wine to convey something about where it is from.

The next year, I started Piedmont Report, largely inspired by the 1999 Barolos, and my steadfast belief that there was space for another voice on Italian wines in light of how much this vintage was either overlooked or lumped in with Barbaresco and the rest of Piedmont. It was clear the 1999 Barolos were fabulous and quite different in both personality and quality than the 1999 Barbarescos. Issue 7 of Piedmont Report, published in May 2006, featured a comprehensive look at the wines.

Rocche dell’Annunziata as seen from Torriglione

Fast forward to today. The 1999s are just as magnificent as they were at the outset. A warm spring led to a growing season of mostly balanced weather and a normal to slightly late harvest. Barolo was not hit with the hail that was so troublesome in Barbaresco, which is one of the main reasons 1999 is a much more consistently outstanding vintage in Barolo.

Two brilliant 1999 Barolos

As a group, the 1999 Barolos are not as austere as the 1996s, the closest vintage in style in the 1990s. Although powerful and structured, the 1999s have begun to soften and are now drinking beautifully. A few wines need a little more bottle age, but they are in the distinct minority. Of course, the best examples will continue to develop in bottle for years to come. Readers who bought the 1999s upon release or shortly thereafter are going to be thrilled. There can be little doubt today that 1999 is a magnificent Barolo vintage.

-- Antonio Galloni

Barolo Pie Rupestris Otin Fiorin 1999, Cappellano
Vandig kant i en utviklet stil. Ren, kirsebær med touch av varm rosin i finish. Moderat struktur, mer en Barbaresco enn en Barolo. 91 poeng

                                             

                                                

Barolo Vigna Rionda 1999, Massolino
Tydelig og erketypisk nebbe med ubønnhørlig syrlig Serralungafrukt. Mørk, begynnende modning mot lettere toner av jordbær og en kledelig sødme. Drikker godt nå. 93 poeng.

Vi drakk denne i vinmøte hos Kim september 2015;

Barolo Vigna Rionda Massolino 1999
Jeg blir ofte imponert av 99 årgangens syrenivå og friskhet, men begynner den nå å vise svakhetstegn ? Har mistet litt spenst og saftighet. Denne virker moden og har et lite snev av slapphet. Mangler energien som jeg forbinder med årgangen. Kan og bør drikkes framover. Ikke sikker på om dette var en optimal flaske. 91 poeng

Barbaresco Chrichêt Pajè 1999, Roagna
Tørr, karakterfull nebbe, mineralsk og saltaktig med en fremdeles tøff struktur. Tørrer litt i finish og bør drikkes. 94 poeng.

Chianti Classico Riserva Monsanto 1999,  Il Poggio
Melkaktig frukt, fremstår med mer bløt frukt enn de andre i rekka. Tilgjengelig og snill. 90 poeng

Barolo 1937

Vinmøte Roar 27.9.18

Barolo 1937, Borgogno
Ren og lys farge, kildevann med nype, virker som en vin fra 60-70 tallet. Sursøt, fremdeles noe krydder, tørr finish. Vanskelig å vurdere; som vin ikke all verden, men en ungdommelig og vital 81 åring ! 89-90 poeng

Fra finewinegeeks:

• The official name of the winery is “Giacomo Borgogno & Figli”.
• The Borgogno Library Wine Program:
• Starting during World War II, the Borgogno Winery held in its cellars at least 20% of each Barolo vintage bottled. Barolo from this time through the 1990 vintage is now released periodically under their Library Program.
• Before these Library release wines leave the winery, they are decanted to remove sediment, then topped off with wine from the same vintage, then recorked.
• Original releases are wines that were released not long after the vintage. Typically (at least through the 1990 vintage), original releases have a red top to the capsule.
• Library releases should have an all black capsule and a decant declaration on the back label, that is a statement of the date that the wine was decanted, topped off, and recorked for sale.
• The Library Release wines must be at least 20 years past the vintage. For example, during 2011, bottles from the 1961, 1967, 1978, 1982, 1985, and 1988 vintages were released as part of this program.
• Also, Barolos from 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, and 2000 were released under a newer version of this program for wines in the 10-20 year old range.
• History:
• The winery traces it roots back to 1761 under owner Bartolomeo Borgogno.
• In the 1920s, the winery was expanded by Cesare Borgogno, who took over from his father Giacomo.
• On his honeymoon in 1937, Cesare traveled to Burgundy where he learned to appreciate the value of bottle aging his own wine.
• After Cesare Borgogno died in 1968, the winery was run by his neice and nephew Ida and Franco Boschis, and eventually by their children, Cesare and Giorgio Boschis.
• In 2008, the winery was acquired by the Farinetti Family (story here). Oscar Farinetti, in particular, is best known as the founder and creator of Eataly, an Italian market in Turin, now with branches in New York City, Tokyo, and other cities around the world.
• Winery website.
• There are many vintages for which I do not have photos, please send them if you do.
• Vineyards:
• Borgogno owns parcels in 4 well-known vineyards in the Barolo zone: Cannubi, Liste, and San Pietro in the commune of Barolo, and Fossati in the commune of La Morra.



Giacomo Borgogno Barolo: Original and Library Releases

This chart is currently under construction and many of links go nowhere at this time.


Vintage	Original Release	Library Release
2000	?	R
1989	?	R
1982	?	R
1981	R	?
Vintage	Original Release	Library Release
1974	?	R
1971	R	?
1970	R	?
Vintage	Original Release	Library Release
1968	R	?
1967	R	?
1964	R	?
1961	R	R
Vintage	Original Release	Library Release
1959	R	?
1958	R	?
1952	R	?
Vintage	Original Release	Library Release
1949	R	?
1947	R	?
1945	R	?
1943	R	?
1941	R	?
Vintage	Original Release	Library Release
1937	R	?
Vintage	Original Release	Library Release

Table Key: N = Non-Reserve, R = Reserve, X = None Made, ? = uncertain.





















Barolo 1958, Gaja

Gammelt treverk, lys te, marrakechkrydder på nesa, daddel og lær, eksotisk, noe lakris og elegant. Perfekt ren flaske. 94 poeng
                                                                                            Kim smakte denne også på en Barolosmaking i november 2017; Transparent blek rød med en utrolig balanse. Lang ettersmak, tørrer noe på finish. Litt enklere og mere utviklet bærsødme enn Monfortino`en. Igjen en god flaske. 95 poeng.

Barolo 1967, Giacomo Conterno
Mørk, uklar, ikke en ren flaske, aceton, lim og neglelakk. Volatil. Ikke vurdert

Barbaresco Rio Sordo 1978, Produttori del Barbaresco
Kork & råtten nese. Ikke vurdert.

Domaine Leflaive 2010

Vinmøte Roar 27. september 2018

Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles 2010, Domaine Leflaive
Lett oksidasjon på nesa, noe nedfallsepler som ikke blir borte i glasset. Ikke den stramme pucellsyra som vanligvis er der. Moden og rik frukt, ganske typisk for årgangen. Endel eik og tutti-frutti. Blir bedre i glasset selv med et vist oksidasjonspreg. Utypisk Pucelles, savner citrus og et strammere bitt. Men flere 2010 synes jeg utvikler seg overraskende raskt. Ikke vurdert mht. poeng.

Puligny Montrachet Clavoillon 2010, Domaine Leflaive
Slank og mere syrlig, men igjen en litt overraskende moden fruktkarakter med melon sammen med karakteristisk citrus og lime. En mer korrekt flaske som nok kan lagres, men drikker godt allerede. Vinmarken skal vel også drikkes tidligere enn Les Pucelles. 91 poeng.

Vi hadde denne også hos Roar i februar 2016
Puligny Montrachet Clavoillon 2010, Domaine Leflaive 
Brent eik, oozer av dyre fat, stor vin i munnen. Grand Cru ? Rik og konsentrert. Dypere og rikere, mere moden frukt. Mange fasetter, lag på lag. Lars Ivar sa at dette var en annen årgang av Leflaive`s Clavoillion ! 92 poeng


Batard Montrachet 2010, Domaine Leflaive
Lineært og pent, kanskje et lite knepp fetere frukt enn Clavoillon. En stram Batard dette som bør lagres. Kan nesten virke som Leflaive har høstet tidlig med vilje for å få en mer stram fruktbase. Alle tre viner utviklet seg voldsomt i glasset fra stilkete og stramt, grønt & Loirsk. Ingen gjettet Leflaiv før etter 1/2 time ! Fyrstikk, svovel, lite av Leflaive-fedmen her. 93 poeng.

Meursault Charmes 2009, Comte Lafon
Rik vin, fet, endel fat, hedonistisk og en god balanse redder det hele nå. Men tror den bør drikkes innen 5 år. Allehånde, klassisk, noe US Chardonnay. 92 poeng.

Hvit burgund 2002

Vinmøte Roar 27. september 2018

Chablis Grenouilles Grand Cru 2002, Louis Michel
Lys sauternes farge, hundepels, oksidasjon og dvask syre. Ikke vurdert

Chassagne Montrachet "Les Ruchottes" 2002, Domaine Ramonet
Karakteristisk "grønnskjær ala Ramonet", minty, men moden med noe strågult. Allehånde, rik, mye "power" for en Premier Cru. En vellykket 02 der risiko for premox er stor. 92-94 poeng.

Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru 2002, Domaine Billaud-Simon
Grønn, steinaktig og mineralsk. Slank midje og drikker perfekt nå. Enkel men kompleks ! Perfekt balanse. Østers og tang. Sublim vin. Lars I, Jon og Kim synes denne var veldig bra. 92-95 poeng

Domaine Billaud-Simon in Chablis is comprised of about 42 acres, encompassing four Grands Crus vineyards, including one acre in Les Clos; one acre in Les Preuses; 1.75 acres in Vaudésir; and .44 acre in Les Blanchots. The Domaine also owns four Premiers Crus vineyards, including Montée de Tonnèrre, Mont-de-Milieu, Fourchaume and Vaillons. In addition to its crus wines, Domaine Billaud-Simon makes a Chablis Villages “Tête d’Or”, with grapes harvested exclusively from the estate. 

In 1815, at the end of the Napoleonic wars, Charles Louis Noël Billaud returned home to Chablis and founded Domaine Billaud-Simon. There, thanks to his family’s holdings, he planted the first vines. Then, a little more than a century later in the 1930s, the Domaine’s vineyards were enlarged with the marriage of his descendant Jean Billaud to Renée Simon. 

Located close to the Serein River, Jean Billaud’s son, Bernard, took over the estate until its acquisition by Domaine Faiveley in July 2014. Since then, Domaine Billaud-Simon is managed separately from Domaine Faiveley: It has its own vineyard, winemaking facilities and remains dedicated to uphold the same style of the wines while continually striving to improve their quality. Along with technical improvements in the modern winery, manual grape picking is increasingly being practiced for their Grands Crus and selected Premiers Crus. 

The Chablis wines of Domaine Billaud-Simon exhibit elegance, balance and pure Chardonnay fruit. Delicious when young, they evolve beautifully with some ageing. 

From Stephen Tanzer (Vinous Media): "The biggest story in the sleepy town of Chablis in the past year was the purchase of this estate last summer by François Faiveley, who quickly installed Olivier Bailly as régisseur under the direction of Faiveley family advisor Bernard Hervet and technical director Jérôme Flous, who also serves as technical director at Faiveley's base in Nuits-Saint-Georges. The transaction finally resolved a long-running family squabble as a result of which Bernard Billaud's nephew Samuel Billaud, who had previously made the wines at Billaud-Simon, was forced out of the family domain and set up his own négociant operation. Samuel has retained some of his family estate’s original vineyards as part of the payment for his share of the domain. 

The first crop of wines made by the new regime at Billaud-Simon looks extremely promising, due in in large part to the fact that Faiveley harvested the fruit earlier--with better nerve and natural acidity--than would have been the case here under Bernard Billaud. Acidity levels are in the very healthy 4.8 grams per liter range. The new team bottled the 2013s but did not vinify them. I've been a long-time fan of this estate previously, but quality will no doubt be more consistent under the Faiveley ownership."

Dom Perignon 1985

Vinmøte Roar 27.9.18:

Champagne Saint-Vincent 2008, R&L Legras
Non-maloaktig, spenstig og frisk, mangler/gjemmer noe. frukt. Flere var på Blanc de Blancs, Kim mente noe Pinot. Stålaktig, maskulin med bitter finish. En god og elegant aperitifchampagne fra en god årgang. Bør lagres. Kr. 799,-. Flere flasker igjen på Aker Brygge, Røa og Frogner. 91 poeng

Dom Perignon 1985
Lys sauternes i fargen, brent grøt, for lenge toastede loffskiver, gul plomme, acasiehonning og en stor kompleksitet på nesa som gir store forhåpninger. Flere 85 champiser har avgått med døden pga. manglende friskhet, denne viser tydelig Chardonnay-zest med en bitter og sval finish. Superbra ! Kjøpt på siste Blomquist auksjon. 95-97 poeng


Lars W (annen flaske); DP 1985: Gullgul, lite mousse; kamfer dominerer nesen; stor konsentrasjon og spesielt intensitet, svært lang. Ingen primærfrukt igjen, drevet av struktur og intensitet, som er imponerende. Etter hvert tar karamell over for kamferen. Var nok bedre for 5-10 år siden. Noterte meg for 3 år siden at denne var betraktelig mer utviklet enn 1988. 92p