Litteraturhuset 6. desember 2021
Bruno Paillard –
Assemblage 2012 Extra Brut (Carine)
Lett gylden farge, ung i stilen med kalkaktig citrus
og friske Granny Smith epler. Presist anslag med noe moden aroma. 7/8 g dosage ?/Degorgert
mars 2020. Bra start ! Alltid vanskelig
med den første champagnen. Pga. syresjokk tror jeg oftest det er en Blanc de
Blancs ! Og det var det ikke nå heller ! 90 poeng
B: God intensitet, ungdommelig, sitrus, grønt
eple, autolyse, ristet brød, kalk, noe fat. Fin dybde. God i munnen, vektig
anslag, strammer seg opp, energisk, god intensitet. God modning, fatpreg i
finish. Kalk. God lengde. Ikke den mest elegante champagnen. 90 poeng.
Kumeu River – Maté’s
Vineyard Chardonnay 2019 (Kim)
Svovel, uren nese og burde vært i karaffel 2t
xtra. Moden frukt med godt volum i
munnen. Relativ intens, drar på seg litt ananas-zest med temperatur og den gule
frukten tar over. Men fremdeles disiplinert og en meget god oversjøisk
Chardonnay. 92 poeng
B: God intensitet, fokus, lett reduktiv med flint,
ristet brød, sesamfrø, sitrus, hvit steinfrukt. Ung. Pent fat. Fine overtoner. Noe
fet i munn, god modning på frukt, fin frukt, sitrus, steinfrukt. God syre men
fremstår som rund. Savner litt livlighet. Litt varm i ettersmak. God + lengde.
Dyktig vinmaking. 91 poeng.
Pheasant’s Tears – Rkhatsiteli Bodbiskhevi 2019
(Alf)
Uklar, surølaktig, lys farge med innslag av stram
rips, tanniner i en ekstrem stil. Hvis jeg skal drikke slik «naturvin for viderekomne»
må jeg ha mer floralitet og fruktkonsentrasjon . Denne var helt nedpå felgen
mht. blomstereng og balanse. Alf mente denne passet til «supra» (småretter i
Georgia) 72 poeng
B: God intensitet, for mye eddik, brett, harsk
skinke. God frukt bak med svart te, appelsin, aprikos, kandisert frukt, noe
blomst. Middels fyldig i munn, frisk, fast, god tanniner. For mye eddik og
brett. Feil. 70 poeng.
JP Fichet – Meursault Les Tessons 2018 (Kaare)
Transparent med grønt skjær. Briljant ren frukt.
Klassisk sentralburgunder, med fjellsmør i en «minty» stil. Moden, en del fat, juicy saker dette.
Men med varme i glasset kanskje litt flat og bløt ? 90 poeng
B: God intensitet, ungdommelig, fokus, flott
frukt, god modning, kjølige overtoner, eple, sitrus, steinfrukt, smør, nøtt,
lett reduktiv, verbenna, linden, svak floral. Pent fat. Livlig, kremet med god
intensitet, god modning, flott syre, fin balanse. Kontraster. Fint fat. Grep i
ettersmak, flott lengde. 92 poeng
Aremis Karamolegos – Santorini Assyrtiko Ftelos
2017 (Gunnar)
Rabarbra på nesa , med spiss Loire syre og et forvirrende
skifer/petroleum jordsmonn. Solid frukt av solbær blader og Sauvignon Blanc. Men
samtidig ekstrem steinaktig og en virkelig genuin vin. Solide greier, men fremstår
schizofren med fin frukt som prøver å slå i en høyere vektklasse. Noe bitter og
uharmonisk finish. Kjølig og helt ren, saltaktig og kan lagres. Kr. 780,- og det
gjør nok til at jeg havner rundt 90 poeng.
B: God intensitet, fokus, ungdommelig, god
modning, steinfrukt, kandisert sitron, urt, kamfer, floral, noe krydder, god
dybde og fine overtoner. Fyldig og rik, men balansert av høy syre, tydelig
grep, energisk, salt. Stor konsentrasjon og flott lengde. Ikke den mest
elegant. 91 poeng
Wineanorak.com;
Artemis Karamolegos is one of the most dynamic wineries on Santorini. Inspired by his grandfather, who started making wine and cultivating vines as a hobby in the 1950s, Artemis founded his winery in 2004, growing it to be the third largest winery by volume on the Aegean island. They own just over 3 hectares of vineyards (some over 100 years old) across Pyrgos, Megalorchori, Exo Gonia, Akrotiri and Fira, and have long term contracts to farm another 5 hectares. They specialize in Assyrtiko, with a range of wines and styles, including numerous single vineyard wines with seriously (150+ years) old vines. The progressive, travelled Artemis, along with talented young winemaker Lefteris Anagnostou, have released Santorini’s first orange wine, and are experimenting with their own custom-made cement tanks. The winery has become a destination, opening the popular Aroma Avlis Food & Wine restaurant, and offering a series of cooking classes.
There are more than 20 wineries on the tiny volcanic Greek island, with vines cultivated there before the Minoan eruption in 1613 BCE, known as the most violent eruption in recent millennia. The volcanic soils are a scrubby mix of basalt, granite, pumice, obsidian and ash, with high levels of silica oxides and metals making the soils acidic /low pH, well suited to amplifying the mineral / marine / salinity of Assyrtiko. More than 40 varieties grow on the island, though not all are cultivated, and most are on their own rootstocks.
Château Grillet 2010 (Lars)
Transparent, grønn og snev av bitterhet i finish. Moderat
nese, en konsentrert vin med rikholdig fruktkjerne. Men med mindre floralitet
enn denne vinen hadde tidligere ? Vanskelig finish drar ned. Bør lagres. Flere
synes denne var bedre enn meg. 89 poeng.
B: God intensitet, fokus, litt lukket, ungdommelig,
gull frukt, aprikos, hvit steinfrukt, smør, gule blomster, krydder, urt.
Tydelig mineral. Flott dybde. Flott i munn, rik, fedme men energisk og livlig,
moderat syre men topp balanse, grep, tydelig salt, mineralsk. Stor
konsentrasjon med masse å by på. Stor lengde. Avslutter frisk, og fokusert. 94.
Kveldens beste hvite.
From the wincellarinsider.com;
The appellation, vineyard and winery was sold by Isabelle Baratin in 2011. Chateau Grillet had been in her family since 1825, when it was first owned by the Neyret-Gachet family. The property was purchased by Francois Pinault, the owner of Chateau Latour in Pauillac in 2011, through his Artemis holding company. Following the purchase of the property by the Artemis group, to help combat counterfeiting, Chateau Grillet adopted the prooftag system, allowing consumers to track the authenticity of their bottles on the estates website. In 2012, the winemaking facilities were completely renovated and a new vat room was created with the addition of modern, stainless steel fermentation vats. 2012 brought another change to the estate when Alessandro Noli was placed in charge of the winemaking. The Chateau Grillet appellation is a miniscule 3.5 hectares of vines. If you think 3.5 hectares is small, prior to 1971, only 1.7 hectares were under vine, making Chateau Grillet the smallest appellation in France at the time. The tiny, 3.5 hectare vineyard of Chateau Grillet has a terroir of granite with quartz, micas sand and clay soils. The vineyard is planted to 100% Viognier. On average the vines are 45 years of age. The vineyard is planted on 76 steep terraces with a south facing exposure that look like they would be close to impossible to farm. The terraces, which are prone to erosion are continually reinforced by a series of rock and stone walls that need almost continuous attention.
To produce the wine of Chateau Grillet, the grapes from each parcel are vinified on a parcel by parcel basis in small, steel tanks. Malolactic fermentations can take place in tank or either tanks or French oak barrels, depending on the needs of each parcel. The wine is then aged for an average of 20% new, French oak barrels for about 18 months before bottling.
Chateau Grillet, unlike its cousin in Condrieu, has the unique ability to age for decades. Even though Chateau Grillet and Condrieu are both planted to 100% Viognier, the styles of wine are quite different. You find more sweetness with fatter textures in Condrieu and perhaps more minerality, elegance and the ability to age in the wines of Chateau Grillet.
Chateau Grillet also produces an entry level wine made from 100% Viognier, Pontcin, which comes from vines they own that even though they are contiguous with the property, because they are not considered part of their tiny appellation, they are considered part of the Cotes du Rhone appellation, which is of course how they are sold.
