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tirsdag 2. september 2025

BYO Savennières

 BYO Loire smaking Restaurant STOCK 26. august 2025



Savennières Clos de la Hutte 2020, Thibaud Boudignon

Blank, transparent, syrerik og fersk. Steinete, ren fjellbekk, mineralsk, Granny Smith epler, saftig og stram. En super elegant vin som trenger noen år til på langs. 92 poeng


Savennières Clos de la Hutte 2021, Thibaud Boudignon

Ikke den samme stramheten som 2020. Mer gylden i glasset, mer moden frukt og mangler intensiteten til 2020. Litt utvannet og vegetal. 90 poeng


Fra vintageandwine.com;

Situated in the commune of La Possonnière, the Clos de la Hutte is an ancient religious site of 7 hectares, of which 2.6 are planted with vines. At the heart of this ancient monastery are vines produced from a massal selection of Chenin Blanc coming from the best domaines of the Loire. Five different selections of Chenin were planted together so as to best express the intensity and singularity of this special place.

There is also a small part of this vineyard planted on its own roots, i.e. ungrafted vines, which gives rise to the micro cuvée Franc de Pied, first produced from the 2020 vintage.

Clos de la Hutte is vinified 50 % in oval demi muid, 25 % in 320 litre cigars, and 25 % in 500 litre puncheons. The ageing lasts one year in wood and a minimum of 3 months in stainless steel. Clos de la Hutte is a great terroir with the solid schist mother rock close to the surface.

'Matured with 30% new oak, the 2021 Savennières Clos de la Hutte was made with grapes grown in clay topsoil with schists. It exhales a perfumed, precise bouquet with aromas of pineapple, lemon oil, spring flowers and spices. The full-bodied, seamless and layered, crystalline and pure, concentrated and mineral palate has a delicate core of fruit and a tense, saline finish. This pristine wine represents the essence of this great terroir. Drink 2023-2053


Savennières Clos de la Coulèe de Serrant 2021, Nicolas Joly

Overraskende frisk farge med typisk overmoden frukt. Men relativ lett og elegant for å være denne vinen. 84 poeng


Savennières Clos de la Coulèe de Serrant 2009, Nicolas Joly

Mørk Sauternes farge med tropisk og uren frukt. Stilen til produsenten i kombinasjon med en varm årgang blir ikke bra. 81 poeng 

onsdag 22. mars 2023

Slitne hvite 2010


 Vinmøte Øistein 2. mars 2023




Savennières Clos du Papillon 2018, Domaine du Closel

Fruktig, candy i en fet og sødmefull stil. Varm og moden, ikke veldig typisk Chenin Blanc og flere var i Rhone/Condrieu. Rik og intens, endel alkohol og Are mente 14,5 på etiketten måtte være for lavt. Luftet i over 4t i karaffel, og den blir litt slankere i glasset. 2020 årgangen nå tilgjengelig på VP til kr. 500,-. 87-91 poeng




Puligny Montrachet Folatières  2010, Etienne Sauzet

Gylden, oksidativ, smør, Jura ? God utviklet nese med et brent preg med innslag av gasbind og voks. En produsent som virkelig sliter med premox. Selv om Jon var uenig...NR. 

Vi hadde en strålende Les Folatières 2010 fra Leflaive i sist vinmøte hos Jon..





Morgen Long Chardonnay 2020, Williamette Valley Oregon

Elegant, fruktig og syrlig med innslag av rabarbrajuice og hvite blomster. Laget i en kjølig vellykket stil med tydelig floralitet og nerve. En ny vin for Vinklubben (Hadde cuveèn Seven Springs 2020 i forrige uke og den var virkelig bra !) 89 poeng

Fra decantalo.com; 

Morgen Long is the brainchild of Seth Morgen, a wine lover (a North Carolina native) who came to the Willamette Valley with his parents at the age of 9. Here, in this magical place for growing grapes (Oregon’s leading growing region), his passion for wine was born. This interest led him to study at the International Sommelier Guild and to travel the world, discovering the secrets of the vine in the vineyard and the grapes in the winery. 

In this area, Chardonnay grows beautifully. Morgen Long Willamette Valley Chardonnay is a blend of six vineyards: The Eyre Vineyard, Seven SpringsDurant Vineyard (on basaltic volcanic soil), Loubejac VineyardAlexEli Vineyard (silty clay loam soils) and Yamhill Vineyard (sandy with marine sediments). In all of them, the vines face different directions, which will determine how ripe each bunch gets. The temperatures, which are not very high (an average of 16ºC during the growing season), have a great range and there is a good level of humidity (very similar to Champagne and Burgundy). Cultivation is completely sustainable and environmentally friendly, giving 1% of their income to helping eliminate CO₂ from the atmosphere.

Morgen Long Willamette Valley Chardonnay is harvested by hand. All batches of grapes are taken to the winery and are pressed and left to rest for 12 to 24 hours in cold storage. After this racking, where the wine is cleared of solids, Morgen Long Willamette Valley Chardonnay is racked to stainless steel tanks where alcoholic fermentation begins. Before this process begins, and to ensure that the yeasts work, Seth Morgen adds sugar to some batches (known as chaptalisation). After six weeks, Morgen Long Willamette Valley Chardonnay undergoes malolactic fermentation and spends a year in oak barrels (20% of which are new)


Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses 2010, Domaine Billaud-Simon

Odde duft, lett oksidativ, gylden, mineralsk med en minimal antydning av Chablis. Utviklet stil, epleskrott, støv og snev av fruktintensitet og blomster. Igjen en dårlig flaske hvit 2010. 87 poeng


Vinklubben hadde en bedre flaske av denne i "50-års dagen til Are" november 2021:

Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses 2010, Domaine Billaud-Simon 

Korrekt Chablis i en ganske rik årgang. Transparent, mineralsk, stein og gul sand. Jordlig «dauvissask» med steinfrukter og aprikos. En veldig karakterfull og meget god Chablis. 93 poeng




Sancerre Les Chailloux 2020, Claude Riffault 

Grønn og ung i stilen med innslag av mango og tropisk frukt på nesa. Godt balansert med frisk syre fra nypresset sitron. Litt varm i stilen, jeg gjettet Grûner Veltliner, mens flere dro til Alsace. Og Are var helt sikker på at det var en Pinot Gris. Lite solbær og kattepiss her, den nye vinstilen i området ? Iht. Merete Bø "verdens beste Sancerre" ! 87-88 poeng

torsdag 20. januar 2022

35 år gammel portugisisk hvitvin

 Vinmøte Kim 20.8.20



Porta dos Cavaleiros Branco Reserva 1985, Dao

35 år gammel portugisisk hvitvin har vi ikke drukket så mye av i klubben ! Gylden med tørket frukt, urter og herreskuff. Mye smak, relativt rent, men litt spesielt. 82-86 poeng


Clos de la Coulèe de Serrant 1986, Nicolas Joly

Igjen en uren CdS, ikke så mye botrytis i denne, men nesa er rar og smaken er rar. Aromatisk helt på siden av hva man ønsker i en hvitvin. Ufrisk med lav syre. 81-83 poeng





Lopez de Heredia Reserva Vina Tondonia Blanco 2004, Rioja

Grønnsåpe og furunål. Kompleks og lang finish. Mangler endel eleganse. 82-86 poeng

Botti.no; López de Heredia har totalt rundt 170 hektar økologisk dyrkede vinmarker i sitt eie. Vinmarkene har hvert sitt særegne terroir, samt ulik eksponering og beliggenhet, noe som gir opphav til litt ulike vinstiler. Vinstokkene er i gjennomsnitt rundt 50 år gamle, men det finnes mange eldre vinstokker i vinmarkene.

Beliggende i en skjellformet forsenkning i terrenget på østsiden av Ebro-elven finner man Viña Tondonia, en av de mer spektakulære vinmarkene i Haro. Den er karakteristisk og lett å få øye på med sine mange poppeltrær. Tondonia-vinmarken er egentlig en gruppe med parseller tilhørende López de Heredia som ble kjøpt og samlet over tid av Don Rafael. Totalt utgjør Tondonia-vinmarken nå rundt 100 hektar. Vinmarken består av et lappeteppe av parseller med eldre vinstokker. Som et vitnesprov på López de Heredia-familiens tålmodighet med vinmarkene, er det slik at noen parseller, etter at uproduktive vinstokker i disse er blitt rykket opp, ligger brakk i opptil fjorten år før parsellene replantes. I mellomtiden benyttes disse parsellene til å dyrke korn.

Vinmarken befinner seg i grenseområdet mellom underregionene Rioja Alta og Rioja Alavesa. Den har sitt navn fra det gamle begrepet for elvebuktningen som vinmarken befinner seg på – nemlig Tondon (fra latinsk retondo). Vinmarken ligger på 438 til 489 meters høyde over havet. Jordsmonnet består av alluvial leire med en høy andel kalkstein. Noen deler av Viña Tondonia inneholder betydelig mer kalkstein enn andre. Disse delene egner seg best for dyrking av hvitvinsdruer, ettersom jorden her i større grad holder på varmen og har god drenering. Vinstokkene her er eldre enn andre steder og kan takle tørke bedre. Vinstokkene er i gjennomsnitt 50 år gamle, men en betydelig andel er eldre enn dette.

søndag 13. januar 2013

Begynner Olivier Leflaive å lage bedre viner ?


Vinmøte Knut 29. november 2012

Sancerre Le Grande Cotat 2005, Pascal Cotat

Litt grønnskjær med snev av mentol og OMO vaskepulver. En rik munnfølelse med en lang solmoden ettersmak. En konsentrert vin men skjemmes av vaskepulveret (urene glass ?) Faller i glasset. 85 poeng.

The Grande Côte vineyard is a 60 year-old, 1 hectare vineyard on a very steep (30 degree inclination) north facing slope in Chavignol with soils that are very rich in clay. This site is entirely owned by Pascal and François Cotat, and they have trademarked the name. Fermented in old oak barrels, this wine always has more acidity and minerality than the Monts Damnés, coming as it does from a higher site. Spicy notes of cinnamon and chalk are typical with fresh pear and nutmeg and wonderful texture




Puligny Montrachet 2008, Olivier Leflaive

Chablisaktig med touch av spearmint, litt kantete og rik i munnen. Grov, kraftig, syrlig, citrus med små kilende tanniner. Mineralsk og slank. Kalkaktig, blek limeaktig, transparent. En veldig god vin. På tide at han begynner med det, tror ikke vi har drukket en god Olivier Leflaive vin siden Jon tok med flasker på begynnelsen av 90-tallet ! 89 poeng




Puligny Montrachet 2005, Domaine Leflaive

Klassisk hvit burgundernese med strøk av nye fat og spearmint. Krydret, noe utviklet, tendens mot premox. Appelsinskall og citrus. Noe uenighet om dette var premox. Kommunalburgunder eller 1cru ? Tørket frukt med noe tropisk i bakgrunnen. Bra syre, vi var også innom Loire. 83-90 poeng


Domainet ble startet i 1717 av Claude Laflaive som flyttet til Puligny og fikk bygd huset som har fungert som hjem for ti generasjoner vinmakere i familien Leflaive. Men det var Joseph Leflaive som skulle sette standarden for fremtiden til familiebedriften. Han var egentlig en marineingeniør og sto på begynnelsen av 1900-tallet bak utviklingen av Frankrikes første ubåt. Samtidig tok han hånd om familiens vinmarker hjemme i Puligny. Det var vanskelige tider, for alle markene var fullstendig ødelagte av vinlusen phylloxera. Han fant frem til de beste rotstokkene han kunne finne og begynte sakte, men sikkert å tappe og selge vinen selv. Da Joseph døde i 1953, var det sønnene Vincent og Joseph-Régis som overtok styringen. Vincent hadde ansvaret for vinene og Joseph for administreringen av domainet. Sammen ble de legendariske for å stå bak noen av de beste hvitvinene Burgund noensinne har sett. I 1990 overtok Vincents datter Anne-Claude sammen med Josephs sønn Olivier, men da Vincent døde i 1993, stod Anne-Claude alene, mens Olivier hadde dannet negocianthuset Olivier Leflaive sammen med broren Patrick. Siden den gang har Anne-Claude Leflaive vært familieforetakets ubestridte overhode. Sammen med Pierre Morey, som har vært hennes vinmaker frem til 2008, har hun utviklet kvaliteten på vinene til høyder man trodde det var umulig å oppnå. Det første hun gjorde var å forvandle alle vinmarkene til biodynamisk dyrking, det skjedde allerede i 1990. I dag eier Domaine Leflaive 24,5 hektar med topp vinmark i Puligny og Blagny. Den mest ettertraktede er deres Montrachet, der de eier kun 0,08 hektar, og lager et fat i året. Vinene får vanligvis 40 prosent ny eik i 12 måneder før de blir blandet og oppbevart i rustfrie ståltanker i seks måneder før de tappes. 








Chateau Couhin-Lurton 2000, Pessac Leognan

Mintaktig, halspastill solbær/"Sharps". Tydelig Sauvignon Blanc. Floral. Mindre Semillion. Lett gassbind. En frisk og god vin. Ikke allverdens år. 86 poeng.

Knut serverte denne i 1994 versjonen 24.11.11: Strågul mot gul. lav syre. litt tropisk frukt i bakgrunnen, men etterhvert tar nesle, solbærbusk og kattepiss over. Noe ubestemmelig karakter, men de fleste var i hvit bordeaux på denne. Karamell, eik og vanilje. Mye sauvignon Blanc. 87 poeng

torsdag 30. august 2012

Vinmøte hos Kim i Vinklubben Kåte Rhoner 23. august 2012


Endelig var en sommer over uten en tropenatt. Deilig å møte høstmørket med gode viner...



Champagne Bollinger la Grande Annèe Brut 2002

Rik og deilig champagne, men sammenlignet med den neste champisen falt den igjennom. Tydelig dosage og en bra aperitif. Mangler endel snert, grei å drikke nå, moden og opulent stil. Kan fortsatt lagres. Noe bedre syre og struktur skulle den nok ha hatt. 89 poeng.



Champagne Cuvèe des Enchanteleur Brut 1996, Henriot

En uforløst og karakterfull champagne med frisk munnfølelse. En extremchampis med autolyse, gjær og toast aromaer. God presisjon, små bobler og veldig Grand Cru over dette. Virker litt knytt og den må lagres ytterligere, Viser årgangens fantastiske struktur og utvilsomt den beste Henriot smakt. Kjøpt på Vika polet. 94 poeng. 50% Pinot Noir - 50% Chardonnay. 10g / l.

The name “Enchanteleur” borne by this rare wine refers to the cellar workers in the days when vinification was carried out only in barrels. Their work consisted in particular of piling up the casks on wooden beams. It was said that they “put the casks on chantiers (gantries)”, that they “enchantelaient”... They traditionally enjoyed the privilege of making for themselves a small Champagne cuvée produced from the finest wines.




Bienvenues Batard Montrachet 1996, Domaine Henri Clerc

Noe søtladen nese, med innslag av aprikos, honning og lett anis. Mangler syre og struktur. Det var vel bare Kim som mente denne ikke var "over the hill". Ravgul med touch av lime på finish. Flere var i nord-Rhone pga lite friskhet. Marsipan og hint av oksidasjon. Tørket frukt og litt spiss i munnen. 87 poeng. Endel uenighet om denne. Jon P hadde denne med på en GF for ca. 10 år siden. Vant den White Wine of the Year ?



Coulèe de Serrant 1985, Nicolas Joly

Våte ullsokker, sjø, fisk og en spesiell lukt. Snev av honning med kandisert frukt og aromamessig en vanskelig vin. Men pen og korrekt streng Loire-syre. Eldre vin og den blir noe usjarmeende med linoleum, ingefær etc. Men den er god i munnen og det er en spennende vin. Igjen stor uenighet om kvalitet. 85 - 92 poeng.





Vi drakk Coulèe de Serrant 1986 på vinmøte hos Øistein i november 2010: Korngul vin med fyrstikk, svovel, blomster og asters i nesa. Snev av fersken og melon, slank noe smal og kort kropp for lengdeløp. Gassbind og en viss eleganse, men ikke en vin for alle. Jeg synes den mangler spenst og har for lav syre. Enig med en på cellatracker som skriver; “the kind of wine that is giving you an exam “ 83-87 poeng.


Christer Byklum skriver:
La Coulée de Serrant was planted with vines by Cistercian monks as early as 1130 and has had 881 (soon 882) consecutive grape harvests. It's a single AOC of just 7 hectares. Biodynamic guru Nicolas Joly is at the helm here. I've been a bit sceptical, especially after the monstrous 06 and 05's, (and oxidized!) but todays tasting of 08 and 09 makes me feel they might be back on track. Todays speach on how a cow see right through you and that snowflakes are individual may seem a bit far off topic.

On the other hand, when he talks about that a little of this, or a little of that may, or may not be harmfull in or on the soil. When he then says that a leech was nothing but a tiny seed a few months back, it's all easier to see how only a tiny piece of something, can have a good or a bad effect. Obvious really, even if it sometimes feels like a gospel choir should be on stage with him. Below are the two latest vintages, and some older ones tasted back in 2010 further below.

2009 Coulée de Serrant:
Pale lemon yellow. Nutty, creamy nose, sweet lilies, marzipan, bananas and a touch of VA. Rich palate, medium acidity, balanced, didn't get a look at the alcohol level, but this felt less alcoholic than the 05. Good length. 90

2008 Coulée de Serrant:
BU5249401 (498,-) Pale lemon yellow. Feels like there is some botrytis, creamy and some vanilla. More subdued marzipan. Rich palate, fresh acidity, lively and elegant, again, feels like a change of style. Long. 91


Straws want to reach high into the sky, they are tied with the sky according to Mr.Joly

2006 Coulée de Serrant:Golden. Massive nose of oxidation, alcohol and bananas. Lazy acidity overshadowed by alcohol and huge body, again unfresh and massive. At least ten bottles have behaved like this, from different cases, so I don't think it's bottle failure.... 75

2005 Coulée de Serrant;

Pale golden, almonds, tulips, floral, honney, orange blossoms, nuts, marsipan, intens and beautifull. Fresh acidity, elegant texture, almost velvety, so balanced, even with the quite high alcohol of 15%, one barely notice it way back in the finish. I have probably tried two dozen bottles of this, and this one is so different from the others, all of them oxidized in one way or the other, this one is just elegant, smooth and joyfull, with very different aromas. Bananas, melons, honney, pear, if this is how it should be, what a cool wine, but this bottle is, as stated above, nothing like the others. Very long finish. Lacks the minerality I associate with this wine though. 92 (On this one great bottle, the rest are low 80's....)


2002 Coulée de Serrant;
Dark lemon, high fill, no sign of sepage, but soaked cork. Intence minerality, some apples and yellow plums, petroleum, dust, cellar and fresh mushrooms. Medium body, fresh in a weird way, lots of acidity, lots of intencity, some oxidized notes, long aftertaste, different but good, needs decanting. Can be left in the bottle for weeks without much happening. 86

Not as oxidized as 05 and 06, but still, much of the same. Major difference is actually less alcohol, and that always helps.

1996 Coulée de Serrant;
Dark golden, soaked cork. Again this almost insane minerality, pear, stone, leaves, schistes, some mushrooms, actually more youthfull than the 02!. Medium body, extreme intencity, massive and fresh acidity, yellow plums, apples and pears, acidity never gives in, very long finish, but still a bit oxidized........88

So, how much older do we have to go, to get rid of the oxidation.........

1994 Coulée de Serrant;
Golden, cork only half soaked, this one leaps out of the glass, again this massive minerality, honey and melon, grapefruit, flint and schistes, unripe pear and is it botrytis back there? It almost has this Sauternes tropical fruit over this increadible massive minerality, it want's to love you and kill you at the same time, dry and crisp finish, still some oxidation. 92

I like them better and better, mostly because the oxidation and alcohol level both seems to drop with age......

1991 Coulée de Serrant;
Paler than the 94, still golden, again soaked cork, but it's a older bottle. Not as intence as the 94, otherwise more or less exactly the same, more gentle, shorter and easier, more forgiving, but still a bit oxidized, and as a lighter one, it shows better. 87

1990 Coulée de Serrant;
Golden, explosive minerality again, honey melon, fresh pears, honey and nuts, even when decanted for two days, nothing much happens in any direction, but the acidity is lazy, a bit lean body and all the honey don't mach, like the oposite of a fat girl with a bit too small top. And still oxidized.........84

So, trying wines from 16 years from oldest to youngest, all sharing a very similar style, except the lowering of alcohol, and to some exctent, oxidation, but it is still very much a part of the style.

1989 Coulée de Serrant;
Lemon yellow, more mature smelling, dust, leaf, minerals, quite less oxidation than the 90, flint, plaster and lemon, a bit steely and lean, not that long and an acidic finish. 83

1984 Coulée de Serrant;
Golden, a bit closed, some minerals, apples, pears, much fresher than the 89 and 90, massive nuts, probably how a squirrel feels when it has the cheeks filled with hazelnuts, lean, acidic, a bit short finish. Still some oxidation, great balance, but a bit short. Nothing happened during 24 hours open, in the bottle. 86

Seems to get fresher again after two a bit dissapointing bottles of 90 and 89.

1980 Coulée de Serrant;
Deep straw yellow! First light colour, and that at almost 30 years of age! Some smoked meaty notes, flint, hints of melon, more citrus, then oysters. This is really different. Even more, almost massive citrus with more air, fresh and lively minerality, very elegant and great balance, leaner than all the others, and so much fresher and more youthfull, actually has the fat girls 14,5 alcohol, but this one knows how to dress, and looks smart. Very long finish. 90

So. This last one, doesn't have any oxidation at all. Is this more of the style that made Coulee de Serrant world famous? It was an impressive old bottle from a lesser vintage. I preffer this style. Has the style gone more back to its roots? I don't know, I didn't taste them young, but from those two young vintages (and bottles) today, I keep my fingers crossed.





Clos St. Hune 1997, Trimbach

Betydelig lysere farge enn de andre. Kruttlapper, flint, melon og hvite blomster. Hva er foskjellen i duft mellom blomster, sommrblomster og hvite blomster ? Men det som gjør vinen er en fantastisk steinaktighet og mineralitet. Høy konsentasjon, lavt utbytte og en god friskhet (til å være Alsace) Litt uforløst og kan fremdeles ligge. Men for dyr mht. hva du får av annen hvitvin til kr. 1 200,-. 90 poeng

Dette sa Nils Are Økland om vinen i april 2011: Clos St. Hune 1997, Trimbach: Ekstrem klarhet, en mosaikk av musk og skifermineralitet på duft. Slank, med en matt kalkaktighet i munnen. Syrlig, lyst sitruspreg bølger mot det kalkaktige i en bevegelse som ikke tar slutt. Sammenlignet med stort anlagte Grand Cru-viner fra Alsace er Clos St. Hune som en Clos fra Dauvissat sammenlignet med rike sentralburgundere.



Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 1993, Bordeaux

Gylden, marsipan med gule plommer. Oksidativ stil, mangler endel friskhet og igjen ble det stor diskusjon om kvalitet. 80-89 poeng. Jeg tror ikke dette var en optimal flaske. Eller den skulle vært dekantert og luftet mere.





Vi drakk Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 1988 i vinmøte hos Knut 24.11.11; Gylden med litt brun aroma. Småoksidert, vanilje, voks og gassbind. Litt skjemmende alkohol, men etterhvert vokser vinen med honningtoner og det oksiderte preget avtar. Litt uenighet mht. kvalitet. Gamle hvite bordeauxer krever mye av sin smaker ! 90 poeng

 
Christer; Pale golden, nuts and minerals, touch tropical and oxidized. Fresh acidity, short first, getting longer and more layered with air. After an hour oxidation started to let go, getting ever more complex and fresher, after three hours oxidation was gone, and the wine turned out to be beautiful. 92-93



Oppgaven her var å gjenkjenne gamle smaksnotater i Vinklubbens historie. Først ute var denne:

·         En utrolig vin som nå begynner å bli moden. Varme og svidde bær i nesen. Alkohol, power, ingen ……. for pyser. Ost i nesen, kaffe og mørk frukt. Frisk grønn pomerol-aktig stil. Rik moden merlotaktig med veldig god og frisk syre. Alle var i bordeaux. Sirkusvin, men disiplinert. En meget vellykket flaske. Elegant, men litt svidd varm eik. (Oktober 2009) kr. 740,-  

Valpolicella 1997. Dal Forno 

       De klarte å feste riktig notat til riktig vin , men de var både i nord-Rhone og USA på denne. Mørke varme bær med en fremdeles veldig fresh munnfølelse. Ingen antydning til svakhetstegn på denne. Smaksnotaet fra 3 år tilbake passer godt fremdeles ! 91 poeng.
 


Smaksnoatet de fikk delt ut var:

·         Elegant. Litt lukket og tørr. Åpner seg etter hvert. Årgangstypisk og best på duft. Mager og litt mye syre. For lite frukt ? 91 poeng (31.8.2000)

Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1988, St. Julien

Overraskende frempå stil, vinen oozzer parfymerte blomster og var særdeles innbydende. Elegant og deilig. Denne vinen har virkelig blomstret opp fra en "tornerose" søvn og jeg ville vel aldri gjettet 1988 som årgang. Viser at denne årgangen ikke nødvendigvis tørker ut. Moden, balansert og flott. Ikke antydning til papparoma som mange 80-talls Ducru`er har. 92 poeng.


                                                   

Grange 1982, Penfolds:

Smaksnotate de fikk var:


·         Voldsom nese av eukalyptus. Intens med tonnevis av fruktkonsentrat. For mye av alt og for lite nyansert. ”Parkerized” vin. Søtladen og lang. 91 poeng (20.5.2000)
 
       Eukalyptus, søtladen og lang ettersmak. Flere var på Hill of Grace. Imponerende intens, nesten lik som da vi hadde den for 12 år siden. Veldig shiraz i nese og munn, dype og rike skogsbær/bjørnebær. Mangler noe friskhet nå, Øyvind likte ikke denne. 85 - 91 poeng.  
 
Deep brick red. Perfumed red cherry/ redcurrant/ tea leaf/ aromas with some raisin notes. Rich red cherry/ damson plum/ tea leafy flavours with fine slinky/ chocolaty tannins and underlying savoury notes. An idiosyncratic Grange at its peak of development. 94% Shiraz 6% Cabernet Sauvignon.


Moden flight:



Clos du Marquis 1985, St. Julien;

Litt undermoden og grønn i munnen. Ikke noe typisk 1985 mykhet her ! Men vinen bør drikkes. 88 poeng.

Fra winedoctor:
Clos du Marquis, introduced with the 1902 vintage, thereby pre-empting the appearance of the plethora of second wines by many decades, is sourced not just from young vines or rejected fruit but from a dedicated section of vineyard quite separate from the Grand Clos to the west of the town (many authors describe its origin as the Petit Clos, a smaller section of vineyard on the south-side of the town, but literature I have from the estate seems to contradict that). The vines to the west are surrounded on all sides by those of other second growth properties, including those of Barton and Poyferré. As the vines in this section have matured, so has the quality of the wine, and hence to consider it a second wine (as in second class) is a falsehood; rather this is a different cuvée, from a different vineyard of some quality and potential, hence its ability to challenge many other châteaux of the Médoc.




Chateau Trotanoy 1978, Pomerol:


Sigarkasse, bordeaux, grønn. Flere var faktisk på Chateau Neuf du Pape. Herreskuff. Are var imponert av denne. Paprika. Deilig moden nå. Vi drikker for lite Pomerol ! 93 poeng.


Planted acreage : 18 acres
Grape varieties : 90% Merlot - 10% Cabernet Franc
Type of soil : A mixture of gravel and clay, and heavy clay
Production : Approximately 25,000 bottles


This famous growth, whose soil was too hard to work and thus called “trop anoi”
(too annoying) in medieval French, is located on one of the most beautiful parts of
the plateau of Pomerol and was purchased in 1953 by Ets. Jean-Pierre MOUEIX.
The fascinating soil diversity - half gravel mixed with clay and half deep black clay -
with the presence of “machefer” or iron pan in the subsoil brings power and depth
as well as complexity to the wine.
Château TROTANOY’s vineyard was one of the few not to freeze in 1956 and
today, it is comprised of very old vines, the average being close to 35 years. As for
other Ets. Jean-Pierre MOUEIX estates, the work done in the vineyard is fastidious -
severe pruning in the winter, regular ploughing, crop-thinning, de-leafing, manicuring
the clusters in the summer - and allows a perfect ripening of the fruit. The must is
vinified in small concrete vats and the young wine matures in 50% new oak barrels
for about 18 months.
 
 

Barbaresco 1967, Produttori del Barbaresco:

Lys rød kant med mørkere kjerne. Klassisk stil og vinen holder seg godt. Utrolig at dette er en standard Barbaresco, men nok endel enkeltvinmarker i denne. Frisk, sursøt og vellykket. 91 poeng.

From rarewine.com:

Thoughts on the Vintages

1990: All of the wines were there for the taking. They were forward, lush, fruit-driven and marked with the classic accents of licorice and forest floor. A pleasure to drink now, each should age effortless for years to come.

1982: The ’82s are a wonder. Amazingly bright, powerful, and dense, while still having youthful charm, they will easily provide years of delicious, refreshing, seductive pleasure. Is this the year to rival ‘96 for complexity and brilliance?

1979: These wines showed softer fruit, a velvety acidity, and very fine tannins. Lost in the shadow of 1978, this is an under-appreciated vintage for Produttori. The ’79s have complexity and richness, but with real elegance. At present, they’re giving much hedonistic pleasure.

1971: The heralded ‘71 vintage did not disappoint, especially with its heady perfumes and fascinating transition of flavors. Still showing fruit but with more emphasis on the earthy, truffley, autumnal potpourri, these wines continue to deliver thanks in part to their sound frame of acidity and tannin.

1970: The sleeper vintage of the tasting. Who knew these wines had so much in common with the 71’s? Freshness, acidity, fruit, and elegance are abundant. Perhaps not as concentrated as 1971, but nonetheless, the ’70s have depth, and are very impressive.



1967s
Two of Produttori's 1967 single-cru Barbarescos: Pora (left) and Moccagatta (right).



1967: Another vintage that tends to be overlooked, but this is an important one for Produttori, since this was the first harvest in which the cantina bottled single-cru wines. Produttori’s 1967’s are at their peak of maturity. Perfumes of truffle, aged tea, spice, and warm earth are intriguing and complex. The flavors, too, have evolved and show layers fresh, classic Barbaresco fruit. Stunning wines.

Impressions of the Crus

All of Produttori’s nine crus were exhibited at the tasting, which offered a unique opportunity to understand not only their differences, but how traditional Langhe winemaking can bring out the essence of each site.

Asili proudly displayed its characteristic richness while showing the warm growing conditions of its site. It’s easy to see why this cru is so well loved.

Moccagatta showed excellent balance in the ripe 1967 vintage, thanks mostly to its cooler microclimate.

Montefico showed characteristics of its calcium-rich site, where the sun rises late in the morning. Bright acidity and freshness of fruit go with it and give the wines a youthfulness, even in their maturity.

Montestefano had its signature too, a wonderful floral intensity, at times reminiscent of violets. It’s soil shares the higher calcium content of Montefico, as well as the nice acidity, but with a more tannic structure.

Ovello, like Moccagatta, proved that its site gives excellent balance and freshness in the warmer, riper vintages. It delivers roundness and elegance.

Pora showed more truffles and earthiness but with a lush, fruity mid-palate that transitioned back to the subtleties of the soil; a fascinating flavor profile for a cru.

Paje, located next to Gaja’s iconic Sori San Lorenzo, offered an outstanding balance of sweetness and acidity, with excellent length.

Rabaja is one of the warmer sites, giving the wines a riper, more concentrated feel, with a good amount of tannin to help focus the flavors. There was a persistence and strength to the Rabaja wines that reminded me of Asili’s richness. The complexitiy from this site is really excellent.

Finally, perhaps the least-known Produttori cru, Rio Sordo, was an epiphany. A slightly cooler site, set within a bit of a geographic bowl, it warms more slowly and retains acidity in the fruit. While not as muscular, Rio Sordo is all about the freshness, balance, and purity; restraint definitely has its place in the Barbaresco pantheon.

The Wines

1990 Asili Riserva: Beef blood, black pepper, and a hint of menthol framed the ripe red fruit aromas. A lithe entry gave way to a complexity of mature flavors with characteristic Asili richness. The ever-changing aromas and flavors suggest that this wine will continue to develop while maintaining the forwardness of the vintage.

1990 Rabajà Riserva: Dusty, slightly musty aromas with a hint of forest floor transition to flavors of black licorice and ripe black fruits, suggesting the general warmth of this site. Perhaps a bit more advanced than the ‘90 Asili but with a long, captivating finish.

1990 Rio Sordo Riserva: A dark brick color forecasts the youthful, bright, and perfumed aromas. Seemingly younger and fresher than the ‘90 Rabajà and ‘90 Asili, with a pure Nebbiolo flavor profile. Being from one of the slightly cooler growing sites, this is one of the highlights of the vintage. Vibrant with pinpoint balance.

1990 Montestefano Riserva: Earthy, slightly meaty aromas, with a hint of licorice. As aromas transitioned into flavors, a violet floral theme showed. The wine is bright and youthful with nice acids. Has the strength and weight of the cru. A favorite in the making.

1990 Centenario: A special bottling, in magnums only, combining all nine crus to commemorate the creation of “Barbaresco” wine in 1894. Concentrated aromas and flavors of blood sausage, licorice, and ripe red fruits with a complex, forest-like note. A muscular wine that will enjoy a long life. Classic Nebbiolo.

1982 Montestefano Riserva: A fountain of powerful aromatics ranging from dusty, bitter herbs and iron to notes of salve, violets and raspberries. Bold, rich, youthful flavors with great acidity and finish. Powerful and delicious. Somehow combines concentration with elegance. Wow!

1982 Pora Riserva: Floral, fruity, high-toned notes that moved to anise and a slight nuttiness. A subtly soft entry led to mouth-filling fruit preserves balanced by great acidity and good tannin. Dances from overt and opulent to focused, intense Barbaresco. Earthy and mushroom notes, too. (See similarities in notes for ‘71 and ‘67 Pora Riservas.)

1982 Montefico Riserva: Opening with an earthiness and a hint of herbs, the nose developed complexity and revealed sour cherries and sandalwood. With a powerful entry, this young wine’s flavors were reminiscent of its nose with sour cherries and spices being predominant. Bright acidity made for a very long finish. Amazing!

1982 Paje Riserva: A rich, complex nose beginning to show some maturity. On the palate, a superb balance of fruit and acidity, with tannins that are slightly drying, but providing good support. Delicious now, but should drink well for a few more years.

1982 Ovello Riserva: Slightly advcanced brick color. The sweet fruit-cake nose was a pleasant surprise, while the palate was buoyed by bittersweet chocolate notes. A slightly lower acidity compared to the other 82’s makes it weighty and velvety. A pleasure.

1979 Asili Riserva: Wonderful bouquet of dried fruits with notes of strawberry, sassafras, loam and a touch of anise. On the palate, the wine showed strawberry and sassafras framed by nice tannins and the signature richness that is Asili. Very enjoyable.

1979 Montefico Riserva: High-toned, mushroom and earth aromas. A strawberry-like floral quality evolved and the nose became fresher than the other ’79s. Montefico’s good acidity is there but the earthy, forest potpourri flavors were not quite as delineated.

1979 Ovello Riserva: Captivating perfume of warm earth, strawberry, and classic rose water. The palate is bright and firm, with saddle leather, brown butter, spice and good acidity, all focused nicely by the tannins. The complex, mature flavors are intense but with a seemingly paradoxial satin-like delicacy.

1971 Rabaja Riserva: Baked plum, allspice, warm apple donut aromas are quite enticing. Nice acidity and woodsiness on the entry with saddle leather and spicy flavors, finished with a cran-cherry note on the long, focused finish. Supple, elegant, and surprisingly fresh. Really nice.

1971 Montestefano Riserva: Wonderful baking aromas, freshly roasted almonds, with the signature floral-violet note typical of this cru site. Hickory nuts and a nice truffle quality emerged with more time in the glass. On the palate, a lean entry leads to a slightly woody and tannic but ripe concentration of fruit flavors. Impressive.

1971 Pora Riserva: High-toned aromas of earth and truffles, classic Barbaresco, merge on the palate with bittersweet chocolate and firm tannins. There is a fruit compote-like fullness to the palate, but the finish is long and direct. Great balancing act of richness and elegance.

1970 Rabaja Riserva: A light brickish color is accompanied by high-toned notes of salve and a hint of soy sauce. The palate shows more freshness with light red fruit qualities of rhubarb and strawberries and a hint of nuttiness. Nice astringency keeps the focus and gives length. I was surprised by the strength of this vintage.

1970 Ovello Riserva: Mushroom, earth, and truffle aromas make for a wonderfully complex nose. A cool entry with nice acidity gives way to strawberry and cranberry. Graceful and persistent. This wine shows how good the 1970’s really are.

1967 Pora Riserva Speciale: Perfumed bouquet of earth, mushroom, and autumnal leaves with a touch of caramel. Soft red fruits and saddle leather with some wood tannins on the palate. A bit less complex than the others, but continues the Pora tendency to blur the line between fruitiness and earthiness.

1967 Moccagatta Riserva Speciale: Spice, salve, and a touch of menthol throughout the continually changing bouquet. Beautiful spice and dried red fruit flavors, notably sour cherries, glide over the palate. Silky and sweet. Even fresher and more complex than the ‘67 Pora. Incredible for a 42-year-old wine!


 
 

Barolo 1961, Fontanafredda

Lys vin, litt ugjennomsiktig og uklar. Sjøsalt, synger på siste verset. 1958 Barolo ? 88 poeng.

Fra hjemmesiden: The harvest 1961 was characterized by a production of grapes extremely rich in sugar and in concentration, due to very high temperatures reached during summer and fall. Since the cellar techniques used at that time did not allow the control of the temperature during fermentation, it occurred that temperatures over 40° would block fermentation process , leaving unpleasant sugar residues in the wine, or uncontrolled malolactic fermentation in wines with residual sugar would cause development of acetic bacteria that would totally compromise the quality of the wines. Luckily we at Fontanafredda had most part of our Barolo production not hit by those problems. Infact we can still count on some availability of Barolo 1961 of great quality. 1961 has an intense garnet color with light orange reflexes.
The nose is rich of fruits in alcohol and hints of citrus. Notes that recall tar and leather. In the mouth the sweetness of alcohol melts with the still present tannins leaving a persistent aftertaste of licorice and tobacco.
 
 
 

Chateau d`Yquem 1996, Sauternes

Sitrus, men mangler endel zest, renhet og syre. Overraskende mørke toner allerede. Elegant, tydelig engelsk marmelade, noe bitre toner. Ikke ren nok. Igjen en skuffende flaske. Men 1996 er ikke all verdens Sauternes årgang. 0,375. 86 poeng.




Vi drakk denne på vinmøtet ifjor hos Kim:
Lett i anslaget og ikke det typiske tunge tropiske smaken man kanskje kan forvente. Konsenrert rikt fatbruk med tydelig vanilje som kan gjøre vinen litt uelegant nå. En konsentrert rik og deilig vin med tydelig aroma av ananas. Tror den vil bli bedre med lagring. 91 poeng.

Og et tidligere SN fra 2009:
Overraskende utviklet mørk farge mot engelsk marmelade. En nesten uelegant nese overkjørt av fat. En merkeklig turbosert sauternes som mangler nødvendig eleganse. Litt innslag av plast og grønn kant gjør vinen  uharmonisk. Generelt for mørkt fruktbilde og for lite snert og citrus. 90 poeng


Fra winedoctor.com;

Château d'Yquem (Sauternes) 1996: A rich and maturing hue, a golden orange hue. Hints of toffee on the nose, which I find rather obvious, along with scents of bitter Seville oranges; sure, there is elegance here, but it comes with that firm suggestion of bitterness too, and there is also a faintly volatile note. Hints of almonds. Supple, quite savoury style, with some dry wood elements. Rich, honeyed, complex, bitter fruits, with touches of burnt toffee. Good but not a great example of Yquem. Tasted at aBordeaux dinner. 16.5/20 (April 2012)

Château d'Yquem (Sauternes) 1996: Dense, fairly well concentrated, with an evocative nose, and a fine spine of acidity. There is good botrytis character here too, as well as a little residual oak. Full, creamy, rather light-footed and delicate, but this gives a nice balance based on that fine and firm acidity. It has elegance, and a very good length. Whilst not a great Yquem, it is certainly very fine for the vintage. I think my last score may have been a little harsh, although that time it was lined up against a number of superior vintages, including the 1997 and 1990. From a Bordeaux tasting with Bibendum. 16.5+/20 (April 2007)

Château d'Yquem (Sauternes) 1996: Average temperatures. Dry September, late botrytis. A moderate gold colour – but not the depth of the other vintages on show. Smoky white fruits, showing good depth of mature fruit aroma, and some good quince notes, but little botrytis otherwise. Full, sweet, maturing fruit. There is a mineral depth that adds interest here, and although botrytis character is subtle I like it more than other 1996s I have tasted. I like this, taking into account the weak vintage for Sauternes. 15.5/20 (November 2004)
 
 
 

Vin Santo 1994, Castell`in Villa

Grov og rik dessertvin. Creme Bruleè vin. Mye alkohol.Nøtter, mangler eleganse. Svir litt i munnen. 82 poeng.
 
 
 

mandag 18. juni 2012

Pur Sang Sauvignon Blanc 2002, Domaine Didier Dagueneau


Sommeravslutning CRU Vinklubben Kåte Rhoner 14.6.12:

En imponerende grønt skjær i vinen fremdeles etter 10 år. Ekstrem nese i starten med solbærbusk, Sauvignon Blanc, grønne blader og gummistøvler. Utrolig syre, ekstremvin, lang ettersmak, steinaktig med rik mineralitet. Rabarbra, men det er denne stålsyren som dominerer vinen. Urene noter trekker ned, men vinen "tar av seg gummistøvlene" etterhvert og fremstår etter en halv time i en renere stil. Men noe stikkende syre og på grensen til ubalanse. Uenigheter rundt bordet her. 90-92 poeng.

Domaine Didier Dagueneau is located in Saint Andelain, a village in the Pouilly Fumé Appellation. He owns about 28 acres of land consisting of mainly clay and flint based soils (or ‘Silex’ in French). Dagueneau is a perfectionist and he attends to every detail — from vineyard management (biodynamic since 1993) to the cellar, which is said to look like a cathedral. He goes way beyond the regulations of the appellation — pruning severely, de-budding, de-leafing, thinning clusters, and keeping low yields — and each harvest is done manually over several tries.

A young rebel with convictions. Dagueneau owes his success to the strength of his convictions. A local winemaker’s son, he set out on his own in 1982. He began using oak barrels for his vinifications a couple years later and wines of great quality were not far behind. Certain traditionalists, however, said that his wines were not “real” Pouilly Fume. Dagueneau’s non-conformity has helped him more than hurt him: his long tousled hair, his bushy beard, his intense gaze, not to mention his passion for sled dogs have all earned him the nickname “the madman of Saint-Andelain” and made him very popular with the press. What does Dagueneau have that the other don’t? He is extremely meticulous and possesses a special intuition where winemaking is concerned. His goals are always authenticity and perfection. To obtain grapes of the highest quality, his vineyard workers spend at least three months carefully de-budding even after a severe pruning earlier in the year. And when the grapes are perfectly ripe, the harvest is done by hand, so that only grapes of impeccable condition are picked, the others are either thrown out or left on the vine to be picked later.

His new winemaking facilities, specifically adapted to Dagueneau’s techniques, use gravity for moving liquids and allow him to apply his ideas without the slightest compromise. After fermentation, the wines are aged in a beautiful cellar containing big barrels and “cigares” (small, long oval barrels which he designed and are made especially for him). The cellar is kept quite cool to limit interaction between the wine and the oak, thus avoiding an overly oaky aroma in the wine.
Dagueneau makes four different dry white wines, all Pouilly Fumés. His basic wine is the En Chailloux, a blend from several vineyards. Next step up is the Buisson Menard, more flinty in style, but still round, and more ageworthy. The remaining two wines are both superstars from single vineyards, and are barrel fermented. Both come from slate soils with one being called Silex, and the other known as Pur Sang.

Pur Sang means “Thoroughbred” in English. The flavors tend to fall somewhere in between the En Chailloux (which accounts for half his production and is his softest, friendliest wine) and Cuvée Silex (his most structured cuvée). The Pur Sang is said to be a more hedonistic Sauvignon (often on par with the Silex), but less mineral driven.
That being said the minerality comes through loud and clear on the nose as well as lemon, citrus, white flowers and some fresh hay. On the palate, very structured, rich and creamy with pronounced mineral components, chalky and loads of lemon zest with a hint of tangerine and nectarine. Great acidity with a very clean, pure and an extremely long finish.
The acidity and strong mineral components make this a great pairing for mussels, raw clams or oysters as well as other seafood dishes. Also, seems as though this wine might benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring….

Didier Dagueneau was tragically killed on September 17, 2008 when the ultralight plane he was piloting experienced problems during take off and crashed. He was only 52 years young. He had accomplished so much and his wines established a benchmark for sauvignon blanc, yet it seemed as though he was just getting started. He will be missed.

onsdag 11. april 2012

Sancerre Les Monts Damnes 2007, Pascal Cotat


Vinmøte Lars Ivar 22.3.12:

Lys og blank farge, konsentrert og ikke typisk solbær-busk Sauvignon Blanc. Vanskelig å si at dette er en Sancerre, men det er en veldig god vin. Gamle fat, frisk citrus, veldig mineralsk og en fet bred og rik munnfølelse. Krydder, harmonisk, snev av grønt preg med selleri og rotgrønnsaker. 90 poeng

fredag 17. februar 2012

Vouvray Clos du Bourg Sec 2010, Huet


Vinmøte Are 16.2.12:

Fersken, fruktig, aprikos og rik i munnen. Litt tung parfyme hviler over vinen, lett tropisk, søt munn men en veldig bra syre står opp mot det hele. Lang ettersmak, den faller litt ned på den uelegante siden. Konsentrert og lang ettersmak. Bør nok lagres 8-10 år til. Jeg tror vi trekker den litt fordi vi ikke drikker så mye Vouvray. Det burde vi gjøre ! 89 poeng.

Fra bloggen "finare viner" :
 
Inte helt oväntat uppvisar 2010 Clos du Bourg Vouvray Sec fler likheter än olikheter jämfört med föregående, men de intensiva citrustonerna är onekligen lite fetare och dessutom får de sällskap av lätta stråk av persika och melon. Det är på andra dagen som inslaget av grapefrukt blir mest tydligt. Doften är lite kryddigare, mineraliteten lite "brunare" och förutom en aning av örter, tulo och honung kan vi addera en knivsudd vanilj från använda fat.

I munnen: ännu en rejäl kick. Smaken är lite rikare, lite rundare, lite fruktigare och lite bredare över axlarna. Syra och mineralitet är precis lika närvarande, men liksom en nyans mörkare, och mer inbäddad. Här finns också en viss grapefruktbeska som ger Clos du Bourg en mer kraftfull profil. I vår smak blir funktionen mindre av apéritif och mer av matsällskap.

Syftet med det här lilla testet var framförallt att ta reda på vilket av dem vi helst vill ha mer av. Båda vinerna närmar sig det perfekta när det gäller torr chenin blanc - Le Mont når möjligen hela vägen dit - men detta är ju egentligen doningar som bör lagras i åratal eller rentav decennier för att ge sitt bästa. Le Mont är i alla fall utan tvekan det vin som träffar allra mest rätt här hemma hos oss.



Fra winedoctor.com;

The news itself was inevitable, but the timing and immediacy of the news which broke yesterday certainly came as a surprise. Noël Pinguet, who has for years been the face of Domaine Huet, and who has long stated his intention to retire in 2015, is to part company with Domaine Huet and its main backer Anthony Hwang, with immediate effect. A source in Vouvray tells me that there is certainly acrimony behind the split, and that Anthony Hwang will be installing family members to take over the management of the domaine. “Pinguet is not leaving a happy man“, my source says.

Noël Pinguet and Domaine Huet part company

The news broke on the 24th with this article from Le Revue du Vin de France; the article suggests some differences of opinion as responsible for the unexpected split. First it is claimed that, contrary to Anthony Hwang’s wishes, Noël (pictured right) was against broadening the production of sec cuvées, presumably at the expense of reducing the amount of sweeter demi-sec and moelleux wines. I can understand this in principle; the sec cuvées are probably more of a commercial success, whereas the demi-sec and moelleux wines probably appeal to a much narrower band of consumers. Having said that, the balance of sec to demi-sec and moelleux cuvées depends very much on the vintage, and 2010 and it seems 2011 were both strong on dry rather than sweet wines. Second, there seems to be a disagreement on distribution policy, Noël’s more measured approach apparently conflicting with Anthony Hwang’s desire to fulfil the largest orders. If this is true I would not be surprised; Hwang’s stake in Huet is large and he comes in as an outside investor. Noël is the son-in-law of Gaston Huet, whose father Victor bought the domaine in 1928. I know his quality-orientated decisions have sometimes caused friction between the two; his desire to use older vintages of very precious première trie moelleux wines as dosage for his superb pétillant wines was not a popular decision with Anthony Hwang. I note the 2007 has been dosed with a less precious blend of demi-sec from two vintages; is this significant in view of Noël’s departure?
Although the split seems to be tainted with acrimony there are suggestions that it may be merely overzealous reporting by La RVF. Jim Budd reports here on news from Huet’s American importer who play down the departure, putting a positive spin on how this development will (a) not affect quality at the estate and (b) more sec wines will mean lower volumes but better quality sweeter wines. Most of these words sound like standard fair from a merchant with a vested interest in marketing and selling the wines of the domaine though, so I’m inclined to reject these points. And as I indicate above, a source in Vouvray tells me otherwise.
As I mention above, Noël has been very open about his retirement in 2015, when he will be 70 years old. With his replacement Benjamin Joliveau having three years under his belt now, and régisseur Jean-Bernard Berthomé staying on, it is understandable that some might think maybe be felt it was safe to go a little earlier than planned. But, as charming as this idea might seem, there seems no doubt that this departure represents more than mere early retirement. Noël has invested much of his life in Huet, working alongside his father-in-law Gaston, a partnership that was reputedly not always as warm as it might have been, converting the domaine to biodynamics in 1990, pushing quality higher and higher. And of course he holds a minority stake in the company. And in recent months when I have met him – in November 2011 and February 2012 – he seemed as interested and enthusiastic for his wines as ever. There was nothing of the man who longed for retirement about him. Discord and acrimony between Hwang and Pinguet have, it seems, resulted in Vouvray’s leading domaine parting company with its most talented winemaker. I wish Noël well for the future.


Om vinmarken Clos du Bourg:

Next to join the Huet portfolio was the Clos du Bourg, and for many modern fans of Huet this is their favourite from amongst the three lieux-dits. The vineyard in question lies to the west of the main Huet cellars. A true clos, surrounded by a high stone wall (even if it is a little tumbledown in places), the vineyard sits on the first slope above the eastern part of the town, including the church, the spire of which is visible beyond the expanse of vines within.
There is considerable history here, records indicating the existence of the Clos du Bourg as long ago as the 7th century when it was owned by the collegiate church of St Martin de Tours. A 6-hectare lieu-dit previously owned by Charles Vavasseur, also a onetime mayor of Vouvray, Gaston Huet acquired the vineyard in 1953. The bedrock is the same tuffeau that extends eastwards towards Le Haut Lieu and Le Mont, although the topsoil here is much shallower, up to a metre deep at most. Perhaps it is this need for the roots of the vines to penetrate the solid limestone below that imbues the cuvées from the Clos du Bourg with a greater sense of power than those from le Haut Lieu ?

Huet

Om sec;

Any tasting of the still wines naturally begins with the sec cuvées, wines which could once be relied upon to possess in the region of 3 to 5 g/l of residual sugar. In recent years, however, it is notable that the residual has been creeping up, and most recent vintages have between 10 and 15 g/l. This is not so much sec as sec-tendre; not overtly sweet, the sugar is usually balanced out by the fine acidity, but the wines are certainly richer and more fleshy than they once were; it is a development that has not been to everybody's taste. I must confess, however, that I still find the wines very appealing, and they cellar very well indeed. At 10 to 15 years these wines are still babies, drinking beautifully, and for some this is when the drinking window truly starts. Personally I find they drink well from the very beginning, and have enjoyed Huet's sec Vouvrays at all ages, sometimes after a year or two in bottle, sometimes many more.