Vinmøte Øyvind 23.11.17
Cote de Nuits -Villagees 2012, Domaine Bachelet
Mørk naturvin, jeg trodde dette var en Cote Rotie ! Grønn og stilkete, jernoksid, primær, 2004 rød burgund ? En moderne fersk stil og vinen har virkelig karakter. Men ikke for alle. 85 poeng
Gevrey Chambertin Viellles Vignes 2012, Domaine Bachelet
Lik forrige vin i stilen. Sursøt med antydning til grønn stilk. Men denne er mer strukturert og solid. "Rotdag" idag ? 87 poeng
Chambolle Musigny Cuvèe des Cigales 2012, Domaine Ponsot
Mørk Hermitageaktig frukt og faktisk ikke helt åpenbar Pinot Noir. Lukket blå frukt. Vinen må lagres. En solid vin, men er dette bra ? Ikke en elegant Chambolle. 88 poeng
ffra burgundy-report:
wines of the domaine
| APPELLATION | COLOUR | AREA |
| Bourgogne Cuvée du Pinson | Red | 0.5 ha |
| Morey St.Denis Cuvée des Grives | Red | 0.6 ha |
| Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée de l’Abeille | Red | 0.5 ha |
| Chambolle-Musigny Cuvée Cigales | Red | 0.4 ha |
| Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes | Red | 0.6 ha |
| Morey St.Denis 1er Cuvée des Alouettes | Red | 1.0 ha |
| Morey St.Denis 1er Clos Monts Luisants | White | 0.9 ha |
| Charmes-Chambertin Cuvée des Merles | Red | 0.3 ha |
| Chapelle-Chambertin | Red | 0.7 ha |
| Griotte-Chambertin | Red | 0.9 ha |
| Chambertin | Red | 0.2 ha |
| Clos St.Denis | Red | 0.7 ha |
| Clos de Vougeot | Red | 0.4 ha |
| Clos de la Roche | Red | 3.4 ha |
|
Including metayage agreements, this important domaine exploits about 11 hectares that include 7 grand crus. Many village and 1er cru wines from the domaine have names related to birds and insects, as befits Laurent who, as a young boy, used to collect the poisonous snakes in the Clos de la Roche to sell to the hospital in Dijon for the production of anti-venoms.
Some appellations; Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru Charmes, Griotte-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Denis and Chambertin are farmed either under métayage agreements whereby the domaine ‘farms’ other peoples vineyards, returning one third of the bottles to the owners of the vineyards as payment. Two other appellations, Clos de Vougeot & Charmes-Chambertin are produced from a joint venture with another vine grower, working together and sharing the harvest.
Clos de la Roche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
Domaine Ponsot is the largest owner of vines in Clos de la Roche, their first parcel was purchased in 1872, and their first estate bottling was in 1934. Laurent likes to point out that from their total 3.4 hectares they have 3 of the 4 hectares of the original plot size of the grand cru – before some other lieu-dits such as such as Fremières, Genavrières or Monts Luisants were included in the ‘extended’ Clos de la Roche. The original plot of the domaine was bought by William Ponsot was about 0.5 hectares, so for two vintages (1988 and 1989 when the vines were close to 40 years old) there was a special ‘Cuvée William’ produced in his honour only from this plot – apparently so people could have an idea of the style of wine from that time. Young vines from Clos de la Roche were blended with 1er cru 1er cru Cuvée des Alouettes, but since 1999 not. Today the vines average 58 years-old. With ‘the best’ plots in both Clos de la Roche and Clos St.Denis, Laurent is well placed to judge which vineyard produces the finest wine, and he chooses Clos de la Roche.
Clos St.Denis Cuvée Très Vieilles Vignes
Since the 1982 métayage agreement with the Mercier family, Domaine Ponsot has been responsible for a 0.7 hectare plot of vines in the heart of the original boundary of the Clos St.Denis – not just perfectly located, they are also extremely old vines – for years this was the cuvée Vieilles Vignes. As the vines were planted in 1905, the 2005 vintage (laser etched bottle instead of a label) bears the name “Cuvée du Centenaire” to celebrate those vines reaching their centenary. From 2006 the cuvée is renamed Très Vieilles Vignes. Such is the age of the vines and the selection criteria of the domaine, sometimes there is only one barrel produced e.g. 7.5 hectolitres per hectare in 2003! For me, this concentrated, darkly fruited wine is often one of the top Côte de Nuits bottles.
Chambertin
Another wine from the contract with the Merciers. From a mix of 60+ year-old vines and replantings – only 9 rows of vines producing between 1 and 3 barrels depending on the vintage. Typically a cuvée that is more elegant than powerful, though the 2005 shows unbelievable depth.
Clos de Vougeot Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
0.4 hectares of upper slope vines averaging 50 year-old. A joint-venture contract since 1999, when it was first bottled at the domaine.
Chapelle-Chambertin
0.7 hectares of 18 year-old vines, whose first bottling was in 1970. The vines are relatively young, and produce a wine of structure that needs some bottle age.
Griotte-Chambertin
1 hectare of average 18 years-old vines from the métayage agreement with the Merciers since 1982. The wine is always silky, but in 2005 it astounds with its serious depth.
Charmes-Chambertin
0.3 hectares of average 35 year-old vines from a parcel of vines right on the Morey border. Like the Clos de Vougeot a joint venture contract since 1999 with first bottling in the same year.
Older bottles of grand crus such as Latricières-Chambertin may be found, as from 1978 until 1994 the domaine used to ‘farm’ 0.4 hectares through a métayage agreement with Domaine Rémy of Morey St.Denis. Since 1995 this vineyard is being worked by Patrick Bize from Savigny-les-Beaune and owned by a consortium of enthusiasts. Domaine Rémy also vinify and bottle another Latricières-Chambertin.
Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru les Charmes
0.7 hectares of average 48 year-old vines locatedon top of the slope at the same level as “Les Amoureuses”. The first bottling was in 1983, as this is also part of the métayage agreement with the Merciers. Sometimes a little more depth than you expect from Charmes and often a beautiful wine.
Morey St.Denis Blanc 1er cru Clos des Monts Luisants
Just under 1 hectare of 1911 vines planted right at the top of the slope below the ‘Chateau des Monts-Luisants’ which was built in 1852 and rather larger than your average cabotte! The Clos was bought in 1872 with a first bottling in 1934. The Clos des Monts-Luisants is a monopoly of the domaine that produces white and red 1er cru Morey and also grand cru Clos de la Roche. Since 2005 this cuvée is pure aligoté and often the last vineyard of the domaine to be harvested. This wine rarely undergoes malolactic fermentation due to the very small percentage of malic acid in the must.
Morey St.Denis 1er cru Cuvée des Alouettes
Alouettes equals Skylark. 1 hectare of average 18 year-old vines from within the 1er cru Clos des Monts Luisants, as well as from declassified juice that also (until 1998) contained fruit from young Clos de la Roche vines. Purchased in 1872, first bottled 1982.
Chambolle-Musigny Cuvée des Cigales
Cigales equals Cicada. 0.6 hectares of average 43 year-old vines that were purchased from Léni Volpato in 2001 and first bottled in 2002.
Morey St.Denis Cuvée des Grives
Grives equals Thrush. 0.5 hectares of average 33 year-old vines from a parcel bought in 1872. The first bottling was in 1960, this cuvée often conatains a mix of 1er and villages appellation wine.
Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée de l’Abeille
l’Abeille equals Bee. 0.5 hectares of average, 43 year-old vines inherited in 1975 and first bottled in 1989. This wine comes from the lieu-dit les Epointures which located under Clos-Prieur and near Chapelle-Chambertin.
Bourgogne rouge Cuvée du Pinson
Pinson equals Finch. 1 hectare of average 33 year-old vines purchased in from Léni Volpato and first bottled in 2001. The vineyard is located within the boundaries of Chambolle-Musigny. A 0.2 hectare parcel that also came from same source has been replanted and in due course will become part of this cuvée.
Impressions of a small barrel tasting of ‘Moreys’ from 2007
Morey St.Denis Blanc 1er cru Clos des Monts Luisants: Lovely breadth that builds through the mid-palate. Mineral, with a strong length. Blind, there are a lot of red wine characteristics here – super.
Morey St.Denis 1er cru Cuvée des Alouettes: Medium, medium-plus colour with a purple rim. Deep and wide aromatics. Very round with cranberry and raspberry. Mouthfilling then narrows towards the lingering finish. Very smooth and sophisticated.
Clos St.Denis Cuvée Très Vieilles Vignes: Intense. Goes on for ever!
Clos de la Roche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes: Harvested 20th September. Versus the Clos St.Denis there is a clear extra creamy dimension, similar length and just a little more mineral structure.
Summarising
I’ve a history with the domaine’s wines that goes as far back as 1991 with the Griotte-Chambetin, but no further. There is constant negative feedback about their 1995/1996 wines and every second vintage or so people use these as a stick to beat the domaine with. I have a couple of these, but I see no point in opening them whilst other people say “yuk”.
Laurent Ponsot strongly defends his wines and questions why people would keep opening bottles and pass judgement on them before they are ready. Whilst I share this point of view, I would also be concerned that my bottles show less well than those from other producers, Laurent however, remains convinced that at 20 years old, his wines will begin to showcase their appellations and start drinking well.
Nuits St Georges Les Vaucrains 2012, Lucien Le Moine
Rustikk Nuits, saftig med kryddertoner. Relativt moden, men den er litt ubalansert i munnen. Noe grønt og hardt som ikke er så sjarmerende. 91 poeng
Chambolle Musigny Les Charmes 2012, Lucien Le Moine
Rik og varm Grand Cru følelse. Litt mye alkohol, brenner litt i finish. Litt vanskelig i munnen og virker hardt eika. Mangler endel eleganse fra kommunen. 90 poeng
