5 Grand Cru Rød Burgund

 Vinmøte Jon 6. februar 2025

Echezeaux Grand Cru 2010, Domaine d`Eugenie

Benchmark burgund, kjølig og spicy. Mørk farge med svartkirsebær. Grov tekstur med en litt vanskelig finish. Sous bois, god energi, en intens og meget god rød burgund. Men mangler de finere nyansene. 92-93 poeng

Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru 2007, Dominique Laurent 

Kork. NR

Echezeaux Grand Cru 2010, Phillippe Pacalet 

Lys transparent, delikat og skjør. Moste jordbær, fragrant, kjølig, mineralsk og elegant. Klokkeren med en spicy bitter finish. Best de første 10 min. Men en fantastisk deilig sensuell vin. 2021 årgangen på VP til kr. 4 250,- !  92-96 poeng

From finewineexperience.com; 

Pacalet is originally from Beaujolais and along with his uncle, Marcel Lapierre, has been a champion for natural wine. His wines represent some of the finest examples of the benefits of this style of winemaking. For many years Pacalet managed Prieuré-Roch before making wine under his own label beginning in 2001. Pacalet doesn’t own any vineyards instead he rents land and makes the wine in a facility he purchased from the De Montille family that’s located in Beaune.

Philippe is passionate about and studied organic winemaking, so the farmers he works with farm organically and sustainably.

There are many interesting personalities out there in the wine-making sector, and Philippe Pacalet is definitely one of them. Born in Beaujolais, he was greatly influenced by his uncle Marcel Lapierre, a leading figure in making natural wines in Beaujolais. Pacalet have also spent 10 years in Domaine Prieuré Roch, taking the role as an estate manager. If this doesn’t sound impressive enough, he has also been making wines in Château Rayas, and Domaine Leroy. This is the man who turned away the invitation from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, as he wanted to start something of his own. His winemaking journeys and experiences are all written in his wines: minimal intervention, great purity and terroir reflective. These are wines that gained a climbing attention since they were made, especially in recent years.

Philippe Pacalet’s philosophy is to let each terroir speak for itself. He rents selected plots in various parts of Côte-d'Or. All grapes are harvested and fermented in whole bunches, with natural yeasts on the grape skin driving the fermentation. Wines are fermented in wooden vats, with pigéage for a gentle extraction, and then aged with a low portion of new oak (usually below 25%), so to preserve the fruit/ floral characters which are extremely delicate. All wines are bottled without any fining or filtration. As the dead yeast cells are not removed from the finished wine, they gradually break down and becomes part of the wine, adding body, concentration and a round mouthfeel on palate. Even the bottling process is done by hand, as opposed to a mechanized production line. Those who have tried his wines will know these are wines of authenticity. They blossom like summer flowers in your glass, and leave a clear, pure impression on your tastebuds.

Delicious in their youth, Philippe Pacalet’s wines are amazingly approachable, even with their newer vintages. The wines just simply show well in relation to other producers at similar vintages. The wine that excites me from Pacalet, is their very limited quantities of Echezeaux Grand Cru they produce. They have highly aromatic qualities, with hints of exotic spices. It’s a combination of power and generosity.

Philippe Pacalet is a man of story, and a grand artist. His wines are pure juice given from mother nature. The immense effort of him and his team had accurately draw out the essence from each terroir, but this also meant his wines are hard to come by, as his wines are only made at a super small production (around 50,000 bottles per annum). 

Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2007, Olivier Bernstein 

Lys moden kant, mye kraft og tørrer endel på finish. Lakris, dyp eika Grand Cru med snev av buljong og kjøttkraft på nesa. Kommet langt, sursøt med røyktoner. Litt sliten flaske. Har ikke drukket mye fra denne produsenten. 91-92 poeng

Corton Grand Cru 2010, Domaine Tollot-Beaut 

Mørk kjerne i en ungdommelig stil. Friske bjørnebær, typisk Corton dvs. lite sjarm. Kjølig, solid og endel eika. Tørrer litt på finish, rustikk i en fast og syrlig stil. 93 poeng

Les Malconsorts 2014

Les Malconsorts smaking 16. januar 2020

Vosne-Romanèe Aux Malconsorts 2014, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
Forskjellig fra 2013, her er det mer typisk rikhet ala Cathiard. Mørk vin, bør lagres, tydelig ny eik på nesa. Mangler per se eleganse. Men den har friskheten så dette vil nok gå seg til. 93 poeng foreløpig.

Les Malconsorts Christiane 2014, Domaine de Montille
Kamfer, mager og tørr. Grønn og vanskelig. NR

Echezeaux Grand Cru 2014, Domaine Jean Grivot

En meget elegant Grand Cru. Korrekt frisk rødbærsfrukt. Bør fortsatt lagres. Mangler den xtra dimensjonen nå, men tydelig at Grivot lager en annen type vin etter 2010. 93 poeng

Malconsort vs. Echezeaux vs. Richebourg 2013

Malconsortsmaking 16.januar 2020:

Vosne-Romanèe Aux Malconsorts 2013, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
Syrlig bærjuice, ren og pen. Moderat bruk av eik. Mangler dimensjonen og dybden til 2012. Men en veldig korrekt og frisk flaske. 94 poeng

Terje Dahl: Lukten har dyp frukt med jordbær og skogsbær. Den har en fantastisk balanse. Smaken er intenst fruktig, bæraktig, strukturert og elegant. Kanskje så intens nå at silken som Cathiard skal ha ikke ikke kommer helt fram. Men dette er ungt og vil bli fantastisk! (95-96) poeng.

Echezeaux Grand Cru 2013, Domaine Jean Grivot
Mørkere farge enn de andre. Tydelige tanniner og tørrer endel på finish. Bør lagres. 93 poeng

Richebourg Grand Cru 2013, Domaine Anne Gros
Årgangstypisk syrlig, men denne har mer tyngde ala Grand Cru. Endel uenighet om kork, finishen er litt flat noe som kan tyde på TCA, men jeg fikk ikke det på nesa. Mangler endel friskhet. Jeg lot den passere. 90 poeng

Malconsorts vs. Ezecheaux

Malconsorts smaking Litteraturhuset 16. januar 2020

Vosne-Romanèe Aux Malconsorts 2012, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
Transparent i uttrykket, frisk, intens og lang ettersmak. 5-spice vosne-krydder, dyp, sexy og elegant. Fet i munnen, samtidig slank og florlett. Særdeles flott vin som kan lagres i mange år. En av smakingens beste viner. 96 poeng

Fra bbr:

Sylvain Cathiard’s grandfather, a foundling from Savoie, came to Burgundy and found work with Domaine de la Romanée Conti (DRC) and Lamarche, subsequently buying a few parcels of vineyards for himself. His son André Cathiard began to bottle some of the crop.

In due course Sylvain began work with his father but then separated to start his own small domaine, until on his father’s retirement in 1995, Sylvain could take back the family vineyards on a renting agreement. He has now been joined by his son Sébastien, and a spacious new cellar is currently under construction.

The Cathiards have 5.5 hectares of vineyards in Vosne-Romanée, Nuits-St-Georges and Chambolle-Musigny, including tiny holdings in Clos de Vougeot and Romanée-St-Vivant. A recent addition (from 2006) to the range is the Nuits-St-Georges Aux Thorey.

This is not a complicated domaine: the vines are looked after meticulously with the fruit being sorted on a table de tri and destalked. After fermentation the wines go into barrel, with 50 per cent new oak for the village wines and 100 per cent for premier cru and above. Most of the barrels come from one cooper, Rémond, albeit with the wood sourced from different forests. The wines in their youth have an exceptional energy and purity of fruit.


                                        

Vosne-Romanèe Echezeaux 2012, Bouchard Père & Fils
Skjemmende sulfitt på nesa som whiffer av. Enkel og et noe mer kommersielt preg i munnen enn forrige vin. Men vinen er i god balanse med god bærkvalitet. Kanskje litt hardt vinifisert (eller eika) og vinen trenger nok ytterligere lagring. Et liten streng av glycerolsødme runder den pent av i munnen. 93 poeng

Vosne-Romanèe Echezeaux Grand Cru 2012, Domaine Jean Grivot
Jordbær, spicy julekake, skogsbunn og blomstereng. Åpenbart ett hakk opp fra tidligere smakte Grivot-viner laget før 2010. Elegant og balansert. Kan fremdeles lagres. 95 poeng.

Bør 1cru vinmarken Malconsorts oppgraderes til Grand Cru ? 2009

Litteraturhuset 16.1.20

2009 er en utfordrende årgang, men jeg synes den holder seg overraskende godt. Vosne Romanèe Aux Malconsort 2009 fra Domaine de Montille viste grønn paprika, årgangstypisk relativ dyp og mørk aroma. God balanse, en rik vin som tørrer litt på finish. Men tror vel kanskje ikke den blir så mye bedre. 93 poeng

Echezeaux Les Loachausses 2009 fra Domaine Anne Gros  var mørk og hadde et litt varmt og kokt strøk på nesa. Jordbær med brede skuldre og litt for stor ekstraksjon. Kanskje ikke så elegant, men roer seg endel i glasset. Lang ettersmak. Litt vanskelig vin å vurdere.  92 poeng.  

Fra hjemmeside:

After receiving a diploma from the Dijon school of commerce, Francois Gros worked in the family business along side his brothers and sister taking care of the accounting. Then Domaine Gros was divided. In 1963, he married Danielle Knecht. He worked with his brother Jean until 1970. Then he decided to look after his own vines which consisted of 3 ha. He started from scratch by building his own winery in 1971 and at the same time created a small negociant business. In particular, the wines were sold to clients passing through the region thanks to a tasting cellar located on the RN74. The wines were sold under the label François Gros as well as Gros père et fils. Then, in 1978, health problems required him to cut back on his activities. The domaine had to sell practically its entire production in barrels to a burgundian negociant. François’ own negociant business ceased to exist. For 10 years, the activities of the domaine diminished. In 1988, Anne started over, creating Domaine Anne and François Gros (François cared for the various vineyard parcels while Anne managed and worked at the domaine). In 1995, the domaine restructured taking the name domaine Anne Gros.

Bør 1cru vinmarken Malconsorts oppgraderes til Grand Cru ? 2008

Smaking Litteraturhuset 16.1.20:

Mathilde Grivot

Årgangen 2008 i rød burgund er ikke vurdert som den beste, men kommer man litt opp i klassifikasjon er det mange gode viner. Vosne Romanèe Les Malconsort 2008 fra Domaine deMontille synes jeg faktisk var bedre enn Christiane Cuveen fra 2006 ! Transparent, elegant, fresh, moden med innslag av jordbær og fat. Bra konsentrasjon og her gir den rustikke 08 karakteren vinen et løft. 93 poeng. 

Vosne Romanèe Les Malconsort 2008 Sylvain Cathiard var en skuffende vin som ikke innfridde forventningene. Mørkere frukt, syrlig og vanskelig i munnen. Har årgangens rustikke urtepreg og mangler "silkeføret" som Cahthiard ofte viser fram. Men vinen har et bakenforliggende godt trøkk og tror den kan bli bedre ved lagring. 91 poeng

Echezeaux 2008 fra Domaine Jean Grivot  viste en typisk stil slik Grivot lagde vin  før 2010. Hard og mørk frukt, steinaktig og kjølig. Ikke grønn, men den rustikke frukten tørrer i finish. Tror ikke denne blir noe spesielt bedre. 90 poeng.

Fra winehog:

 Echezeaux Les Cruots or if you like Echezeaux Les Vigne Blanches is one of the most interesting terroirs in the Flagey-Echezeaux part of Burgundy.

Henry Jayer found this to be one of the best terroirs in the large Echezeaux grand cru – and Jayer apparently made a special Echezeaux cuvée from this vineyard.One of the most important owners of this terroir is today Domaine Jean Grivot … in my view one of the best producers of Echezeaux currently.

The Jayer link

I think it’s important to understand the quality of the vineyard Les Cruots ou Vignes Blanches as this was the core in the best Henri Jayer Echezeaux made and the core of other great Echezeauxs.There is also a link between the Jayer family and the Grivot holdings in Echezeaux as the Grivot plots has in Echezeaux are from the Jayer family.

Jean Grivot, the father of Etienne Grivot, married Yvonne Jayer who is the daughter of Louis Jayer – the cousin of Henri Jayer – and the son of Jean-Francois Jayer and Jeanne Marchand (1870 – 1953). Louis also had a second daughter Jacqueline and she also had some vineyards from the Jayer heritage – and these are also included in the Grivot holdings today.The main part of the Grivot Echezeaux vineyard – cadastre plot 172 and 176 – presumably comes from the Yvonne and Jacqueline Jayer side of the family.

Moving back to Jean-François Jayer – he also had a daughter, Jeanne, who married a Sirugue in Vosne-Romanée and their daughter, Marthe, married a Lamadon in Vosne-Romanée.In 2006 the Lamadon family decided to stop the wine production, and the plots of the Lamadon family was then divided between Louis-Michel Liger-Belair of Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair (metayage), the Lamarche family and the Grivot family, as the Lamadons are cousins of the Grivots.

In Grivots case the cadastre plots 792 and 794 in Les Cruots ou Vignes Blanches and presumably also the plots 590 and 593 in Champs Traversin – as these are side by side with plots rented to Liger-Belair.

The Echezeaux from Domaine Jean Grivot

The Echezeaux from Domaine Jean Grivot is produced from two different climates in Echezeaux – Le Cruots ou Vignes Blanches (8), Champs Traversin (4) – see yellow dots on map below.

The 11 climates on Echézeaux are:

1. Echézeaux du Dessus
2. Les Poulailléres
3. En Orveau
4. Les Champs Traversins
5. Les Rouges du Bas
6. Les Beaux Monts Bas
7. Les Loächausses
8. Les Cruots ou Vigne Blanches
9. Clos St. Denis
10. Les Treux
11. Les Quartieres de Nuits

The total area of the 7 plots is 0.8460 ha – and represents a mix of terroirs from the Echezeaux vineyard (Champs Traversin) and the middle part Cruots ou Vignes Blanches. To be honest the Cruots ou Vignes Blanches is the dominant terroir – and presumably the plots on Champs Traversin has rather little influence on the wine.

Les Cruots ou Vignes Blanches

The plots in Les Cruots are located in the northern part of the vineyard running from top to bottom in the climate. The area of the five plots are 0.7970 ha combined – see map below.

Map: Les Cruots ou Vignes Blanches

The five plots are 172, 176, 792, 794 and finally 599 a small plot located in the top of the vineyard.

Champs Traversin

The plots on Champs Traversin are located in the southern end of the vineyard. The two plots – 590 and 593 are only 0.0490 ha in total – see map below.

Map: Champs Traversin

The wine

The Jean Grivot Echezeaux is in my view one of the very best from the appellation. The Echezeaux and the other wines in the Grivot portfolio have improved significantly since 2007 and even further in 2010 and especially the wines from 2010 and onwards are quite outstanding.

Bør 1cru vinmarken Malconsorts oppgaderes til Grand cru ? 2003-2006

Smaking Litteraturhuset 16.1.20:

Vi startet med 2003 årgangen og Èchezeaux`en fra Renè Engel var oustanding selv i en varm og vanskelig årgang. Litt uklar og absolutt ikke transparent men med en deilig utviklet nese av blomster og søte jordbær. En superelegant vin, sømløs i munnen, noe mørkere bærfrukt i finish enn man kan forvente med den nesa. Bløt i teksturen, drikkemoden og klar nå. Synd det er så vanskelig å få tak i flasker fra denne produsenten. Medtatt av Fredrik og det var hans siste flaske. 95 poeng

Det var litt urettferdig å sette denne opp mot Aux Malconsort 2003 fra Nicolas Potel.  Druene ble plukket i august; druene var modne, men stilkene var det ikke. Det kan fornemmes i denne vinen. Samtidig ønsket de fleste produsenter å lage elegante viner dette året med varsom vinifikasjon. Potel gjorde det motsatte med utstrakt bruk av "punch downs". "The tannins was the hallmark of the year so we might as well make the most of them" (J. Morris) Vinen fremstår som stilkete og med snev av bladverk med undermoden frukt. Grønn paprika, tørrer på finish og har årgangens mindre modne tanniner å slite med. Men en ren og frisk flaske. Mot mat hadde den passet bedre. 89 poeng. Kveldens dårligste vin. Medtatt av Anders.

Deretter over til en annen mellomårgang 2006.  Vosne Romanèe Les Malconsorts 2006 fra Domaine Francois Lamarche hadde en overraskende energisk og fin purpur farge med vandig kant. Men dessverre også litt tynn og for liten konsentrasjon i munnen for dette nivået. Men vinen er i en pen fase, moden og utvikler seg godt i glasset. Men mangler kompleksitet og dybde. 90 poeng. Eiendommen lager nå bedre og bedre viner etter at Nicole (bilde)  og Natalie tok over driften i 2007 (de er kusiner)

Vosne Romanèe Les Malconsorts 2006 Christiane fra Domaine de Montille var en overraskende god vin fra en mellomårgang. Vinen er mer klassisk i en lys og transparent stil. En flott og elegant vin med jordbær og fornem eik på nesa. Kanskje litt hardt vinifisert, den tørrer litt på finish med tydelige tanniner. Det er åpenbart at Montille ønsket at denne skal ha litt "omph-faktor". Men årgangen gir nok ikke god nok frukt. Vinmarken er oppkalt etter moren til Etienne Montille og druene plukkes fra en teig på 0,4765ha som ligger "inne i La Tache" . Vinmarken ble kjøpt i 2005 og 2005 var den første årgangen av Christiane. 93 poeng

Fourrier x 2

Vinmøte Roar 19.1.17

Gevrey Chambertin Clos St-Jacques Vielle Vigne 2009, Fourrier
En rå vin, jeg syntes den hadde litt kork og hadde mye urenheter, men alle var ikke enige. Det er liksom stilen til produsenten ! Vi diskuterte mye denne vinen; var den slik den skulle være ? Det er en dyp og genuin underliggende frukt her. En fragrant og forførende intensitet med deilig rødbærsfrukt. Men vinen er "vill" og lever farlig. 93 poeng.

Gevrey Chambertin Clos St-Jacques Vielle Vigne 2011, Fourrier
Igjen en intens rødbærsfrukt, den har en fellesnevner med noe spontant gjærkulturelt med 2009, men denne har "cocinella" frukt med markerte og aromatisk grønne blader og er klart stilkete. Lever godt opp til årgangens grønne "markør". Men samtidig mye frukt her, en "cornecupia" av mange fasetter. Vanskelig vin å vurdere, men det grønne trekker ned. 91 poeng.

Arild Håland mars 2015:  Fourrier Clos st. Jacques 2011 var derimot helt strålende, og var for meg kveldens beste vin. Jeg er veldig glad i Fourrier for hans svært rene frukt og lekre viner, og på dette nivået kombineres disse egenskapene med vinmarkens kvalitet, struktur og fruktkonsentrasjon. Da blir resultatet nært magisk. Nydelig rødfruktsparfyme, intens, ren og dyp, og den beste burgunderen jeg har smakt så langt i år. Det er et lite streif av 2011-grønske, men det skjemmer ikke. Stor vin. 

Musigny Grand Cuvèe Vielles Vignes 2007, Comte G. de Vogue
Anonym start på nesa, deretter popkorn, karameller og smørmalt. Ren Pinot Noir, ungdommelig og en høy "Grand Cru" aktig konsentrasjon. Men til en høy pris nå. 93 poeng

Chambolle Musigny La Combe d`Orveaux 2007, Bruno Clavellier
Frisk vin, svir litt i munnen. Litt typisk "chambolsk" lettvekter fra en lett årgang. 88 poeng.

Fra winehog;

La Combe d’Orveau – village, 1er cru and a part of Musigny

The Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau is one of the hidden gems of Cote de Nuits. Only a few producers make wine from this slightly overlooked terroir and a part of of the climate is now a part of a “rather” well known grand cru. The grand cru is of course Musigny and the story about the expansion of Musigny is also the story about La Combe d’Orveau a terroir with at least partly grand cru potential.Chambolle Musigny La Combe d’Orveau is devided in two sections – the 1er cru and grand cru climates located just above Clos de Vougeot on the slope just south of Les Petits Musigny and the village section located further west on the border between Flagey-Echezeaux and Chambolle-Musigny – see map below.

Update – with new info on the Jacques Prieure holdings  In this article I will focus on the 1er and grand cru section of La Combe d’Orveau, allthough very good wines are made by J.-F. Mugnier, Anne Gros and Jean Grivot on the village climate located in the valley between Chambolle and Flagey. Anne Gros owns the largest part of the village section of La Combe d’Orveau – her plot is 1.1 ha – more than 50% of the 2.06 ha village part of La Combe d’Orveau.

The 1er and grand cru section of La Combe d’Orveau is located above and just south of Les Petits Musigny on a south east oriented slope just above the northwest corner of Clos de Vougeot. The area of this section is 3.15 ha, and was even before the expansion of Musigny in 1929 owned by several of the current owners of the terroir.

The expansion of Musigny in 1929

The original Musigny vineyard had two main climates – Les Musigny and Les Petit Musigny. In 1929 a third climate was included in the Musigny appellation when a 0.62 ha part of La Combe d’Orveau owned by Jacques Prieur was promoted to grand cru Musigny 1.

It was the bottom part of La Combe d’Orveau that got promoted – see map below – and the rumor says that some of the other owners were reluctant to apply for a promotion due to higher land taxes on grand cru vineyards.3

The cadastre maps have been changed since this expansion, so the map above is a approximation of the situation after the expansion of Musigny in 1929.

The second expansion of Musigny in 1989

In 1989 we saw the second expansion of Musigny, and it was again initiated by Jacques Prieur who wanted to expand the Musigny part of La Combe d’Orveau. In total 0.15 ha of La Combe d’Orveau 1er cru was promoted to grand cru on this occation – see map below.

The boarders between the grand cru plots and the 1er cru plots are somewhat unclear, as the arial photo suggest one thing … while the cadastre maps show a more irregular border between the Faiveley and Prieur holdings … see map of ownership below.

The current owners on La Combe d’Orveau

There are five owners on the 1er cru and grand cru section of La Combe d’Orveau today. The largest owner is Domaine Bruno Clavelier who own the largest share of the 1er cru section, while Domaine Jacques Prieur is the second largest owner with the 0.7660 ha grand cru section and 0.0476 ha in the 1 er cru section – the 1er cru section is located at the top of the grand cru plot. According to my sources Jacques Prieure make around 150 bottles of La Combe d’Orveau 1er cru in a normal year.

• Domaine Bruno Clavelier – 0.8155 ha
• Domaine Jacques Prieur – 0.8136 ha
• Domaine Perrot-Minot – 0.4736 ha
• Domaine Taupenot-Merme – 0.4547 ha
• Domaine Faiveley – 0.2907 ha

It should be notet that the Perrot-Minot and Taupenot-Merme plots originates from the Merme family as Henri Perrot-Minot was married to the daughter of Armand Merme in 1963 … and they took over some of the family vineyards.

Echezeaux Grand Cru 2007, Jean_Marc Millot

Ren rødbærsfrukt, god stamina, god balanse, kan lagres. 94 poeng

Echezeaux 2002 fra Mongeard-Mugneret

Vinmøte Jon 22.4.14

Echezeaux 2002, Mongeard-Mugneret

Barbequesaus, lys og oversjøisk i stilen. En rik og tydelig Pinot Noir. Lett og elegant. Cathiard ? Aromatisk optimal nå med "asian-spice", frisk, kan fortsatt lagres og en veldig god munnfølelse. Den beste vinen i rekka. 94-95 poeng

Jean Mongeard has been a key figure within Burgundy serving as the President of the Association des Viticulteurs de la Cote d`Or for many years. He is also one of the most prominent growers inVosne-Romanée. In 1985 he handed over responsibility for winemaking to his 29-year-old sonVincent.The Domaine has 20 hectares of vineyards, including small parcels of Clos de Vougeotand Richebourg. These are sturdy, concentrated, well-proportioned wines that over the years have become more elegant and refined.

Clos des Mouches Beaune 1993, Joseph Drouhin

Mørk frukt med avslepen nese. Vandig i munnen, og smaken tar deg ikke til det "neste nivået". Vanskelig i munnen med tanniner, syrerik årgang og vinen har ikke fruktkvalitet for ytterligere lagring. Noe klassisk, men for trang og mager. Vinmarken synes jeg sjelden imponerer. 86-87 poeng

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1cru Aux Murgers 2003, Sylvain Cathiard

Mørkere fruktbilde, kvalitet mht. fatkrydder som tilsier en vin fra en god produsent eller av Grand Cru kvalitet. Rik rødbærsfrukt som blir kamuflert vel mye av eiken. Litt brent pepper, krydret. En Gevrey Chambertin Clos St Jacques fra Sylvie Esmonin ? Jeg synes 2003 drikker godt nå. 89-91 poeng.

The family Domaine was established by Sylvain Cathiard’s grandfather in the 1930s and then maintained by Sylvain’s father from 1969 until 1985, when Sylvain himself became involved. The following year, Sylvain set up his own with parcels of vines rented from his father and other vignerons, before taking on his father’s original vineyards. From 2006, he has been joined by his son, Sebastian, and they have formed the estate of Sylvain Cathiard et Fils.

Based in Vosne, his 5 hectares span Vosne-Romanée, Nuits-St-Georges and Chambolle-Musigny, with a very small parcel in Romanée-St-Vivant. All vineyard work is carried out with meticulous attention to detail by only himself, his son and his wife.

For winemaking Sylvain has a definite hands-off approach, preferring to do nothing rather than interfere with the natural development of the wines. He destems entirely, cold settles the juice and ferments the wines for between 16 and 22 days. The new wines are matured for 18 months in oak as follows: Village wines, 40% new oak and 60% 1 year old; 1er Crus, 70-80% new oak and 20-30% 1 year old; Grand Cru, 100% new oak. Since 2000 none of the wines are fined or filtered.

Corton Grand Cru 2002, Louis Jadot

Lys og genuin rødbærsfrukt. Fragrant og elegant. Lekker, klassisk og flere var i Chambolle. Lang ettersmak, kanskje vel mye eik, tørrer litt med en kledelig rustikk finale. 89-91 poeng

Vintage Port 1963, Cockburns

Lys, fragrant og gjennomsiktig. Mangler endel intensitet og bør drikkes. Typisk lettere stil ala Cockburns. 89 poeng.