Bollinger Grande Annè 2002

 Vinmøte Øistein 3. april 2025

Champagne Eric Rodez Ambonnay Blanc de Noirs Brut

Frisk og overraskende smal og stram Pinot champis. Eplekart i munnen, tydelig autolyse i en klassisk stil. Citrus med brødaroma. Kan og bør fortsatt lagres. Gogget i april 2023. 89 poeng. Kr. 900,- på VP

Champagne Bollinger La Grande Annèe 2002 Brut

Gylden moden og utviklet. Brioche, appelsinskall i en imøtekommende og generøs stil. En deilig champis, men mister litt mousse i glasset. Kanskje ikke lagre ytterligere ? Kjøpt i sin tid på Philipson Wines i Kokkedal til en hyggelig pris ! Gogget i februar 2011. 93 poeng

Sartarelli Milletta Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Riserva 2021

Strågul med pen dybde, rik på alkohol og krydret fethet i munnen. Honningmelon, noe fat, litt tung og aromatisk utfordrende. Kr. 329,- på VP. 82 poeng

Pazo Senorans Albarino 2023 Rias Baixas 

Kjølig stil, god aromatikk og frisk på nesa. Slank og presis. Floral og enkel i munnen. Alltid et godt kjøp på VP til < kr. 300,-. 85 poeng 

Assyrtiko Thalassitis 2023, Gaja Wines

Blomster, floral, grønn og transparent. Rik på nesa, blir litt varm i stilen og mangler kompleksiteten, mineraliteten og skarpheten til en god Assyrtiko. Kr. 340,- på VP (2024)  83 poeng

 

2 x Riesling 2007 fra Mosbacher

Vinmøte Are 27. februar 2019



                


Riesling Kieselberg "Grosse Hohl" 2007 GG,  G.Mosbacher
Lys og klassisk riesling på nesa. Utviklet med toner av jordbær, men mangler spenst. Tørr og mindre mineralsk enn man kunne forvente. 86 poeng


Riesling Freundstûck 2007 GG, Weingut G.Mosbacher
Mer gylden farge, noe petro, gul steinfrukt, kompleks med en streng av sødme. Bitre steiner og større dybde enn Kieselberg. Men skuffet over lagringskapasiteten til GG etter disse to vinene. 88 poeng.

Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres 2012, Jean-Louis Chavy
Gylden , karamell og smørbukk. Fet i munnen, men mangler frukt og spenst. Død i munnen. NR.

Chardonnay Sol 2017, Ronco del Gnemiz 
Tydelig chardonnay, eik og sulfitt. Rhonsk krydder, anis og alkohol. Blank, tropisk, men rar. Spesielt Roar var ikke imponert. 84 poeng

Are serverte 2015 årgangen i sitt vinmøte i 2017:

Friuli Colli Orientali Chardonnay Sol 2015, Ronco del Gnemiz
Svidd popcorn, røykbål og fet i munnen. Klassisk hvit burgund for de fleste, kanskje litt mye smørtoner. Det ble liksom litt for mye av det gode ! Rik vin, mangler endel pene og fine nyanser, men vinen er tydelig og vil nok lure de fleste. Med temperatur vel mye aroma. Men en spennende vin laget for å imponere ! 91 poeng

Owned and managed by Serena Palazzolo and her sons, Ronco del Gnemiz has been one of Friuli Venezia-Giulia’s leading wineries for more than a decade. The Palazzolo family bought the estate back in the 1960’s, and Serena took over from her father in the early nineties when she returned home after college graduation. Her management of the winery has enabled it to reach new heights in terms of uncompromising quality, natural viticulture and most notably, aging potential. The wines are outstandingly ageworthy, with whites which are still beautifully balanced after ten years; a quality which Serena and her partner and fellow winemaker Christian Patat attribute to their deep-rooted respect for the terroir, preservation and improvement.   

The 10 hectare winery lays on the hill of Rosazzo. Despite the vineyards’ south-facing exposure which should make them extremely hot in the summer, the heat is tempered by sea breezes and the vineyards are sheltered by the Alps. Friuli does not always have a gentle climate and often suffers harsh winters in comparison to the good summers, and has also endured its fair share of freak, heavy rainstorms, for which the Northwestern region is renowned. If it weren’t for the good North winds known as ‘Bora’ which dry out the land, it would be impossible to manage the drenched vineyards.  Ronco del Gnemiz is lucky to have vineyards based on Friuli’s prized sandstone soil ‘Ponca’ which comprises many layers of soil built up over millions of years making it rich in minerals and microelements which give the wine a highly distinctive character. 

Ronco del Gnemiz wines are characterised by bright acidity in the whites, with a very careful use of oak, while the reds adopt a classic Bordeaux style and austere tannins. All wines are made with fully mature grapes which are never overripe, and subsequently the rich fruit is the focus for both reds and whites. It is the purity, length and display of true varietal style which places Serena’s wines among the gems of the region, and make them a testament to her commitment and passion. 

4 Chardonnay

Vinmøte Are 16.3.2017

Puligny Montrachet Folatieres 2010, Vincent Girardin
Allerede en fremoverlent og drikkemoden Puligny med syrlig melon på den elegante siden. Perfekt nå og i fullstendig balanse. 2010 kan være litt "heady" med alkohol, men denne var superb. Vincent lager betydelig bedre hvite viner enn røde !  92-93 poeng

Chassagne Montrachet Abbay de Morgeot 2014, D. Berthelemot
Litt mye svovel med fyrstikkeske og bitter finish. Lufter av seg endel og blir bedre i glasset. Ukjent produsent for klubben. 1cru vinmarken Morgeot er på hele 54 hektar og består av 19 oppdelte parseller. Vinmarken rundt det gamle klosteret "Abbaye" ligger på et flatere område som flere mener passer bedre for Pinot Noir.  89-90 poeng

Meursault Genevrières Premier Cru 2014, D. Bouchard Père & Fils
Minty, kaffe, smør, popcorn, fat, bål og brent trevirke. Mangler endel spenst og grenser til "flabby". Men en rik, ung og balansert vin. 91 poeng

Friuli Colli Orientali Chardonnay Sol 2015, Ronco del Gnemiz
Svidd popcorn, røykbål og fet i munnen. Klassisk hvit burgund for de fleste, kanskje litt mye smørtoner. Det ble liksom litt for mye av det gode ! Rik vin, mangler endel pene og fine nyanser, men vinen er tydelig og vil nok lure de fleste. Med temperatur vel mye aroma. Men en spennende vin laget for å imponere ! 91 poeng

Owned and managed by Serena Palazzolo and her sons, Ronco del Gnemiz has been one of Friuli Venezia-Giulia’s leading wineries for more than a decade. The Palazzolo family bought the estate back in the 1960’s, and Serena took over from her father in the early nineties when she returned home after college graduation. Her management of the winery has enabled it to reach new heights in terms of uncompromising quality, natural viticulture and most notably, aging potential. The wines are outstandingly ageworthy, with whites which are still beautifully balanced after ten years; a quality which Serena and her partner and fellow winemaker Christian Patat attribute to their deep-rooted respect for the terroir, preservation and improvement.   

The 10 hectare winery lays on the hill of Rosazzo. Despite the vineyards’ south-facing exposure which should make them extremely hot in the summer, the heat is tempered by sea breezes and the vineyards are sheltered by the Alps. Friuli does not always have a gentle climate and often suffers harsh winters in comparison to the good summers, and has also endured its fair share of freak, heavy rainstorms, for which the Northwestern region is renowned. If it weren’t for the good North winds known as ‘Bora’ which dry out the land, it would be impossible to manage the drenched vineyards.  Ronco del Gnemiz is lucky to have vineyards based on Friuli’s prized sandstone soil ‘Ponca’ which comprises many layers of soil built up over millions of years making it rich in minerals and microelements which give the wine a highly distinctive character. 

Ronco del Gnemiz wines are characterised by bright acidity in the whites, with a very careful use of oak, while the reds adopt a classic Bordeaux style and austere tannins. All wines are made with fully mature grapes which are never overripe, and subsequently the rich fruit is the focus for both reds and whites. It is the purity, length and display of true varietal style which places Serena’s wines among the gems of the region, and make them a testament to her commitment and passion. 

En skuffende Coche Dury

Vinmøte Knut 28.4.16

Savennières Clos du Pappilon 2006, Domaine des Baumard
Svovel, eik, blek , grønn & transparent. Gassbind på nesa og flere var i Rhone/Marsanne. Eller når vi er litt utenfor vårt kjerneområde: Italia ! God mineralitet, ullsokker og oljet tekstur.
En merkelig og god vin. 89 poeng

Chassagne-Montrachet La Boudriotte  2004, Blain-Gagnard
Spiss syre, granitt, terroir og lett gylden. Utviklet og litt tynn 04-aktig i munnen. Jura, Savagnin ?
Vi var ikke på hvit burgund. Stikker litt, fullmoden, litt mye alkohol. Varm frukt og vanskelig finish. 88-90 poeng.

Trebbiano d`Abruzzo Riserva 2011, Marina Cvetic
Kompleks og moden munn. Appelsin, marsipan, rik med whiff av fersken. En morsom vin, men den utvikler seg negativt i glasset. Knut var entusiastisk på denne som sist ble drukket i Italia.
87-89 poeng

Bourgogne Blanc Chardonnay 2010, Domaine Coche-Dury 
Blank i uttrykket, fersk, høy i fjøset, snev av medisinskap/Paracetpille. Mangler både modenhet, dybde og farge. Bør lagres ? Grønne blader og eplekart. Fremstår idag litt undermoden. Vag og mangler Coche-definisjonen. 86-88 poeng

Cervaro della Sala, Castello della Sala 2013, Antinori
Tutti frutti, spearmint og eik. En rik vin som mange trodde var en Coche. Og det må være et kompliment !  God nese med citrustoner. Sitter overraskende bra i munnen. Chardonnay & Grechetto. 88-92 poeng

Fra hjemmeside Antinori;

The 2013 vintage, in general, was rather cool and marked by frequent precipitation, weather conditions which favored a positive growing season with a gradual and regular ripening of the grapes. The harvest period was ten to fifteen days later than the previous vintage, and picking began during the first ten days of September. After very mild weather in autumn of 2012, the winter of 2013 was characterized by slightly above average temperatures and rainfall. Spring and early summer rain left valuable reserves of ground water in the soil and slowed ripening. Seasonal warmth arrived in mid-July, and August was marked by temperature swings between daytime warmth and evening and nighttime coolness, creating conditions for a slow but constant ripening of the crop. Picking of the Chardonnay began in early September and was then followed by the picking of the Grechetto, a grape variety which, physiologically, reaches proper ripeness two weeks later. The grapes, when harvested, were healthy, ripe, and endowed with an excellent acidity.

VINIFICATION

The harvesting of the grapes for Cervaro require particular care and attention to avoid damaging oxidative processes or extraction of undesirable tannins. Picking takes place during the early hours of the morning in order to bring to the cellars grapes which are entirely intact and undamaged in their fruit, unaffected by high daytime temperatures, The care and attention continue in the cellars thanks to their particular layout and structure, conceived and programmed to function entirely by gravity flow and, accordingly, to avoid mechanical influence and effect on the grapes and must. The must, after a four hour maceration on the grape skins at 50° Fahrenheit (10°centigrade), falls directly into decanting tanks to lose its impurities before going into barrel. The fermentation and the subsequent malolactic fermentation take place in oak, and it is precisely the completion of the malolactic fermentation which determines the amount of aging time in barrel of the wine. Five months are normally sufficient, and the wine then goes into stainless steel tanks, where it is blended with the Grechetto which has been fermented on its own. Cervaro della Sala, after bottling, is given an additional twelve months of bottle aging in the historic cellars of the Castello della Sala.  before commercial release

HISTORICAL DATA

The name of the wine, Cervaro, derives from that of the noble family which owned the castle during the 14th century: Monaldeschi della Cervara. The Antinori family purchased the property – the castle and the surrounding land - in the year 1940. The first vintage of Cervaro della Sala, the 1985, was released in 1987. The wine has been awarded various prizes and won much recognition for the consistent excellence of its quality.

TASTING NOTES

Thanks to the cool growing season, the 2013 Cervaro della Sala is characterized by a notable vigor and crispness while nonetheless maintaining a Mediterranean character. Its nose shows notes of chamomile, honey, and flint. The palate is mineral in character with buttery vanilla notes which blend elegantly with flavors of tropical and citrus fruit.

Er fransk hvitvin best ?

GF 29.5.2015:

Vi sammenliknet fransk hvitvin mot hvitvin fra andre land i forskjellige prisklasser.

Lapola Ribeira Sacra 2012, Galica
Aromatisk, litt sødmefull, eik & honning. Hvit burgund sier Are. Litt mye alkohol. En spennende hvitvin. Fikk 2 stemmer. Godella, Albarino & Dona Blanca. 83 poeng.

Sancerre Grande Reserve 2013, Henri Bourgeois
Litt anonym nese, tydelig Sauvignon Blanc, litt mer tilbakeholden. Men renere og mer slank og presis i uttrykket. Fikk 3 stemmer. 84 poeng

Piere Sauvignon Vie di Romans 2010, Friuli
Rett i margen Sauvignon Blanc med fruktig kattepiss og ekspressiv solbærbusk. Introvert, litt lukket. Cloudy Bay vin var liksom bedre før. Fikk 1 stemme. 84 poeng

Chablis 1cru Fourchaume 2010, Gerard Duplessis 
God mineralitet, nøytral, litt lukket og bør lagres. Lineær, stram og presis. Fikk 4 stemmer. Viser årgangens styrke i Chablis. Et fantastisk bra kjøp til kr. 260,- (nå i 2012 som også er bra) 86 poeng

Bourgogne Blanc 2012, Domaine Leflaive 
God mineralitet, blek trang og transparent. Delikat, balansert og en veldig god årgang. Fikk 5 stemmer. 88 poeng

La Rocca 2012, Pieropan 
Tung i sessen, god konsentrasjon, mye alkohol, ikke så mye fat, men en vanskelig vin i munnen. "Typisk" italiensk uelegant hvitvin ! Fikk ingen stemmer. 85 poeng

Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru 2010, Billaud Simon  
Blank, grønn og mineralsk. Lang og god konsentrasjon. Intens og en veldig god vin med drahjelp fra en super årgang. Fikk 5 stemmer. 90 poeng

Sterpi Timorasso 2009, Vigneti Massa 
Gul, modent fruktutrykk, endel alkohol, uelegant. Igjen en vanskelig munnfølelse. Fikk ingen stemmer. 85 poeng

Frankrike vant en overlegen seier 17-3 !

Bourgogne Aligotè 2009, Domaine Coche Dury

Vinmøte Øistein 24.10.13

Soave Classico Superiore 2012, Coffele

Enkel, grønn og kort. Grei vin som vel var bedre i tidligere årganger ? Eller er det bare vi som er blitt kresne ? 78 poeng

Fra dinmat.no;

Fint, kjølig aromabilde med nøytral steinfrukt og underliggende mineralitet. Litt kort i finish i denne årgangen. Forsiktig vin som gjør seg best til forsiktig gastronomi, sashimi. kr. 149,-.

Bourgogne Aligotè 2009, Domaine Coche Dury

Kork, blir noe bedre i glasset, men flaskefeil. Ikke vurdert.

Fra winehog.org:

Domaine J.-F. Coche-Dury is one of the very best white wine producers in the world, thus also in Burgundy. The Domaine is located in Meursault, and most of the wines comes from the appelation.

Coche-Dury’s a bit of a myth among wine connoisseurs, and I have therefore tried to get behind the scene, and analyzed the great success and popularity Coche has achieved.

Domaine was founded in 1920 by Jean-Francois Coche grandfather. Jean-Francois took over the domaine in the mid-1970s from his father, Georges. Jean-Francois Coche was in 1975 married Odile Dury and this led to the formation of Coche-Dury domaine. Today he runs the domaine with his son Raphael, who has been involved in work at the domaine since 1999.

Vinification at Domaine Coche-Dury

Coche-Dury is by all standards one of the best producers of white Burgundy, a position he has occupied for more than 20 years. The most impressive is that he has done so without a large portfolio of Grand Cru vineyards. Coche-Dury has a rather modest production and maintains a very high quality – from AOC Bourgogne to the top of the range. Production approx. 4,200 cases annually.

Coche-Dury put great emphasis on work done in the vineyards, when he is asked about his fantastic succes. There a no secrets he says, just hard work in the vineyards. The vines are pruned fairly heavily, and he only use “green harvest” very rarely. They use no form of pesticides in wine production at Coche Dury, fields plowed and cultivated very carefully to maintain the ecological balance.

Vinificationen is fairly traditional, but with quite frequent battonage. Fermentation takes place on oak cask, and the proportion of new oak varies from year to year, but generally Coche-Dury uses quite a lot new oak. In some years they have used up to 50% new casks on the top wines. The wines are raised in barral for 15 to 22 months, and are bottled without filtration.

Coche Dury – vineyards and wines

Domaine Coche-Dury is today almost 9 acres, of which approximately 6 acres Chardonnay, while the rest is Pinot Noir and Aligote.

The production of wine are scattered in a large number of vineyards, see the table below, and on most of these vineyards Coche-Dury have less than one hectare. The 4.25 ha Meursault village is spread over 5 to 6 parcels typically vinified and bottled separately. In reality there are no wine from the Domaine which is harvested on more than 1 ha of Vineyard, and therefore the quantities of all wines are quite limited.

As seen from the table the vines in several vineyards of very old, and this is perhaps one explanation for the extraordinary quality Coche achieve.

Vineyard:	Grape varieties	Vine age	Soil	Area
Bourgogne Blanc	Chardonney	1930, 1958, 1975	Clay & Limestone	1 ha
Meursault	Chardonney	varies	Clay & Limestone	4,25 ha
Meursault Les Rougeots	Chardonney	1940, 1962, 1973	Clay & Limestone	0,7 ha
Meursault Les Chevalieres	Chardonney	1958	Clay & Limestone	0,12 ha
Puligny Montrachet Les Enseigneresc	Chardonney	1930 – 1952	Clay & Limestone	0,5 ha
Meursault Perrieres 1er cru	Chardonney	1950, 1970, 2005	Limestone	0,5 ha
Meursault Caillerets 1er cru	Chardonney	1960	Limestone	0,33 ha
Meursault Genevrieres 1er cru	Chardonney	na	Limestone	na
Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru	Chardonney	1960	Clay & Limestone	0,33 ha
Bourgogne Rouge	Pinot Noir	1973-1980	Clay & Sand	0,75 ha
Monthelie Cote de Beaune Rouge	Pinot Noir	fra 1987	Clay & Limestone	0,25 ha
Meursault Cote de Beaune Rouge	Pinot Noir	1980	Clay & Limestone	0,12 ha
Auxey-Duresses Rouge	Pinot Noir	1982	Clay & Limestone	0,50 ha
Volnay 1er cru	Pinot Noir	1962, 1987	Clay & Limestone	0,33 ha

The most “common” wine from Coche-Dury is his generic Meursault, which is perhaps not quite as generic as one might expect from the table above. There are in total 7-8 different village Meursaults, all vinified and bottled separately.

Most of those are bottled without vineyard/plot information, but two of them, Chevalier and Rougeots, are sold with with the vineyard mentioned on the label. So in reality we are 5 to 6 versions of his generic village Meursault that one may encounter when tasting / buying wine in different countries.

I’ve tried to find some information on different vineyards/plots bottled as generic Meursault, and reached the following conclusion… please note – some of these wines occur more frequently than others:

• Les Narvaux
• Les Dessous Vireuils
• Les Vireuils dessus
• La Barre
• Chaumes (Clone 548 – a vieyard his son is renting)
• “Les Tetes-Cassese (seen in the 1986 vintage)”
• “Les Luchet (seen in the 1992 vintage)”

I have onlye seen Les Luchet in the 1992 vintage (tasting note from Parker), and Les Tetes Cassese, is only seen in the 1986 vintage, so both may be out of the picture now.

In Denmark the generic Meursault comes from the plot Les Narvaux and this should be one of the heavier and fatter of his village wines – according to the importer. This cuvee should also be the one supplied to American importer.

Besides the village wines makes Jean-Francois Coche also makes three 1er crus Meursault Caillerets, Meursault Perriere and Meursault Genevriers. The first two have been made for many years, while Genevrieres was added to the domaine in 2003. In addition to the three Meursault 1er crus, he also makes Puligny-Montrachet Enseignères, and a legendary Corton-Charlemagne, which is nearly impossible to find – and cost a fortune.

Coche-Dury also make some fine red wines from Auxey-dures, Monthelie, Meursault, Pommard and Volnay, and an excellent Aligote.

What is so special about Coche-Dury

Coche-Dury has almost legendary status among wine connoisseurs, and rightly so. His wines are something special, and he almost have the same status as Henri Jayer, who was quite unique in Vosne Romanee.

The first time I tasted Coche-Dury was back in 1995 when I was served a Meursault village from 1992. This village wine nailed several Grand Crus to the wall on that occasion. Since the I have tasted quite a lot of wines from Coche-Dury, and can’t remember a dissapointing bottle (except first tasting of the Meursault village 2009).

Coche-Dury – bouquet and taste

Coche-Dury are very expressive wines that really jumps from the glass. It is not subtle or for that matter aristocratic wines, no they are quite flamboyant wines of almost incredibly high quality.

The first thing you notice is the assertive bouquet of gun powder and hints of popcorn – which can be very distinctive when the wines are young. They also have quite a considerable note of new oak, which together with the various nuances of the chardonney grape gives a complex and challenging nose.

On the palate the wines has very fine textures and freshness that comes from both the soil and the fine acidity structure. The wines are never overripe, but retain their suppleness and finesse. There is a pronounced Coche style, but this does not prevent the individual vineyards terroir to shine through. They are terroir wines but have a quite distinctive style that characterizes all the wines from the domaine.

Why does Domaine J.-F. Coche-Dury make better wine?

A large part of the explanation for the high quality is most likely found in the vineyards, where a thorough work combined with very old vines in several vineyards yield som special wines. He manages to make wines that are both fresh and resilient although the concentration is quite high, something very few manufacturers are able to match.

Coche-Dury are, of course, also very skilled in the cellar, but I think it is in the vineyards he makes the big difference, which is probably one of the reasons that nobody has been able to copy his style and qualities.

Enjoy!

Tasting Notes for this producer

• J.-F. Coche-Dury, Meursault Les Rougeots 2004 March. 25. 2013
• J.-F. Coche-Dury, Meursault 2008 November. 1. 2012
• J.-F. Coche-Dury, Meursault 2000 July. 7. 2012
• J.-F. Coche-Dury, Auxey Duresses 2008 July. 5. 2012
• J.-F. Coche-Dury, Meursault 2009 June. 14. 2012
• J.-F. Coche-Dury, Meursault 2007 April. 23. 2012
• J.-F. Coche-Dury, Meursault 1999 February. 5. 2012
• J.-F. Coche-Dury, Meursault Perrieres 2008 January. 26. 2012
• J.-F. Coche-Dury, Meursault Perrieres 1996 January. 24. 2012
• J.-F. Coche-Dury, Meursault 2008 January. 14. 2012
• J.-F. Coche Dury, Meursault 2009 October. 17. 2011
• J.-F. Coche Dury, Meursault 2004 October. 16. 2011
• J.-F. Coche Dury Meursault 2008 June. 1. 2011

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