torsdag 31. mai 2012

Castello Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Riserva 1997, Fonterutoli

GF Toskanasmaking 11.5.2012:

Innslag av eple og blåbær i nesen. Cascolim med tørre tretanniner. Kjemisk og vi vurderte denne som en ødelagt flaske. Husker jeg var så imponert av denne da den kom, betyr det at Fonterutoli lager opulente deilige viner som har mye smak, men lite struktur og ikke lagd for lagring ?

Tror nok dette var en dårlig flaske når du ser hva skriver:

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1997: Not a hint of oxidation anywhere. The colour is maturing, still with a lot of red pigment but bricking a little at the rim, much darker at the core. And the nose is just delightful, full of sweet and leathery fruit spiced with elements of cloves, stewed black cherry and custard powder. The latter will no doubt raise an eyebrow or two, but it is a very typical aroma I find in Chianti from time to time. A very supple and gently composed palate, immediately showing great substance and texture through the midpalate, with smoky and leathery fruit well framed by robust acidity, a very flattering texture and a good vein of resolving tannins. There is still a good sense of extract here too, a tangible flesh to the wine, giving it a full, flattering and handsome although very dry style which I adore. And it is long too, very long indeed. What a joy - I am so glad I held back before reporting in order to try a truly representative bottle of this quite delicious wine.  18.5/20 (April 2010)
Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1997: This wine takes a little time to open out and reveal where it really is right now, but it is certainly worth the wait. The colour is red-black, with a dusky maturing hue. It initially has a little volatility, but this blows off to reveal notes of custard - a Sangiovese trait - and dark fruits with a rather meaty, furry, savage-styled fruit. This fruit carried through onto the palate where it has a lovely presence, as the structure builds in grip, showing firm tannins on the midpalate. It has a broadness, but with the freshness of redcurrants, plums and cherries. There is a supple character and a well integrated composition. Although it is perhaps a touch brawny still, overall this is very nicely integrated and right now is simply delicious for drinking. 18.5+/20 (December 2007)
Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1997: Showing a little more maturity in appearance, and certainly a maturing fruit style on the nose, but with fine complexity. A medley of black cherry, black olive, leather, and a meaty, smoked bacon character act to entice. Good depth, slightly austere at the start, but opening out on the midpalate to reveal plenty of texture and flavour, but always with that appealing bitter cherry structure underneath. Lovely savoury style on the finish, with a lick of tannin. Still needs 1-2 years in the cellar to be fully ready, but excellent nevertheless. 18.5+/20 (May 2007)
Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1997: Still showing a youthful hue at eight years old. Rather restrained nose showing, with a little time, some black pepper, black olives and smoked, spicy meats. Smoothly integrated palate, showing just lovely floral-tinged black olive fruit over a background of gentle, fading tannins. Sappy, with lovely extract, but with good composure. Great length too. This is simply delightful and approachable now, although will be even better in 2-3 years. 18.5+/20 (August 2005)

Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova 1998, Casanova di Neri

GF 11.5.2012  Toscanasmaking:

Noe buljong med tynn konsentrasjon. Denne er sliten nå med innslag av kaffe, tørket frukt, soya  og jod. En lite sjarmerende vin og mest sannsynlig ikke en optimal flaske. 82 poeng.

Vi drakk 2005 årgangen på vinmøte hos Knut 24.11.11; Fullblods sangiovese i en moden opulent stil med mye eik. Tråe tanniner nå og en vanskelig vin. Svir fælt i munnen og dette var ikke vellykket. Bør lagres. 85 poeng

Although a relative newcomer (it was founded in 1971), trendsetting Casanova di Neri Winery has become one of the most-respected wineries of Montalcino if not in Italy. This family-run cellar owes its success to a solid track record of powerful, luxuriant Brunellos and to the exclusive crus, Tenuta Nuova and Cerretalto. The past decade has seen a vast change in the winery as it has acquired more vineyards and has installed cutting-edge technology that's pushing it to the forefront of Tuscan winemaking. The wines of Casanova di Neri are renowned for their elegant, modern style and enjoy a steady flow of accolades from specialty magazines and contests the world over. In 2006, the Wine Spectator named their Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova 2001 the world's top wine, calling it "one of the best examples of the recent winemaking renaissance in Tuscany". Of the five wines made here, all except one (the Cabernet Pietradonice) are made with 100 percent Sangiovese Grosso. True products of the warm Mediterranean climate and sandy soils that characterize Montalcino, Casanova di Neri's wines are pungent, complex super high quality wines that can age well for decades.
A small, family company run by Giacomo Neri, Casanova di Neri has only 48 hectares of planted vineyards. Yet those 48 high-density hectares are divided among four separate estates. “Pietradonice” in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, the “Cetine” in S. Angelo in Colle, the “Cerretalto” and the “Fiesole” near the new cellar -- each with its own personality and nuances. Casanova di Neri's new cellar is the culmination of years of work. A three-storey underground cellar, it is perfectly suited to blending and aging the potent wines born here.

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Ugolaia 1999, Lisini

GF Toscanasmaking 11.5.2012:

Mørk vin , middels dybde med oransjerød kant. Ren brunellofrukt i en floral stil med innslag av varmt krydder. Fokusert sunn utviklet frukt med delikate aromaer av røde bær. Sommerblomster med snev av mokka. Jeg har tidligere ikke blitt så imponert av denne produsenten, men dette var bra ! Intens munnfølelse, vinen fyller opp hele veien, er kompleks, elegant og korrekt.  Kompleks og transparent, med en klar referanse til Toscana. Denne produsenten må besøkes ! 93 poeng

Lisini are one of the oldest Brunello di Montalcino estates, dating back to the 17th century, with 10 hectares sited near Sant'Angelo in Colle. Ugolaia refers to a specific single vineyard, whose exceptional fruit is used to make their Brunello Riserva; aged for nearly 4 years in large Slavonian barrels before bottling & release in the fifth year. A great beast of a wine, from a top vintage that will age for a further 10 years yet.

onsdag 30. mai 2012

Solaia 1999, Antinori

GF  Toskana smaking 11.5.2012:

Mørk vin med en fløteaktig munnfølelse. Mister friskheten i sin higen etter ekstraksjon.Mye fat. Grov og uelegant. Faktisk enda dårligere enn 2000. 87 poeng.

Vinen har i gj.snitt fått 93.1 poeng på cellartracker og det viser vel forskjellen mellom "US palate"  og "European palate". 

Tasted by Papies on 2/11/2012 & rated 96 points:
Decanted for a good 2 hours and felt like it needed it.
Dark dense colour. Good balance on the nose , sweet dark fruit, oaky notes, some floral note. Lush, well round and very much alive with lots of depth on the palate and this is a wine of serious potential. Once the oak assimilates further this will be a 98+. 96 at the moment and what a wine. If you can wait 5yrs this will be a mesmerising wine.

Chianti Classico Riserva 1997, Nittardi

GF Toskana smaking 11.5.12:

En fremdeles intens purpur farge med antydning til oransj kant. Fresh og deilig i munnen med innslag av sigartobakk, pepper og asiatisk krydder. Spennende nese med sommerblomster og kirsebær. Vinen holder seg godt, men mot Brunelloe`n i rekka (Lisini) blir den nesten flat og smal på smak. Holder seg godt i glasset. 90 poeng.

Fattoria Nitardi is a traditional wine growing estate, situated in the centre of Tuscany between Florence and Siena. The old wine estate used to be a strong hold tower and was first mentioned as “Nectar Dei” in the 12th century. During the 16th century it belonged to Michelangelo Buonarroti who grew his own vines. The quality of the wine was so impressive that Buonarroti sent several bottles of Nittardi to Rome as a “dono genuino” as is written in the letters he sent to his illustrious patrons, Popes Julius II and Leo X.
Today, 12 hectares of vineyards, olive groves and 100 hectares of unspoilt woods encircle the Nittardi Estate. It lies in the middle of idyllic protected countryside and is 8 km from the nearest village, Castellina in Chianti. The vines at Nittardi grow on an ideal site right in the heart of the Chianti Classico region, at about 450m above sea level on the south side of a range of hills. These hills are covered with oak trees that offer protection from the cold winds.
Art on the Bottle
Limited edition of Casanuova di Nittardi wine bottlesNittardi has a long history in the world of art, which continues today. Every year an artist designs a label as well as the wrapping paper, which is used for a limited edition of Casanuova di Nittardi wine bottles.
The collection which started in 1981 includes works by internationally known artists such as Valerio Adami, Eduardo Arroyo, Elvira Bach, Corneille, Friedensreich Hundertwasser, Alfred Hrdlicka, Horst Janssen, A.R. Penck and Paul Wunderlich and the 2006 Label was designed by Yoko Ono. .
Since the so-called ‘wine miracle’ which saw an incredible increase in quality during the 1980’s, Chianti Classico is traditionally made from the regional Sangiovese grapes. Only 5% of Cannaiolo grapes are added to the wine to make it smoother and rounder.
This Nittardi wine is treated with special care and attention in the vineyards as well as in the cellars. After being cask aged for at least six months the young wine eventually matures into an elegant, richly flavoured red wine which can be aged for long periods of time.
Nittardi Chianti Classico RiservaThis Nittardi Chianti Classico Riserva is made from only the best pressings of the Sangiovese grapes from the original Vigna Alta of Nittardi. It is vinified separately and aged in French oak barrels for a period of at least 24 months which transforms the quality of the wine.
After bottling, the wine is aged for a further 3 to 5 years in order to expose its full potential. The wine develops a harmonious character full of depth and intensity due to the long maturation period. It is well respected and appreciated in the world of high quality wines.
Nittardi RiservaIn these past years Nittardi Riserva was not only awarded the 3 Glasses of Gambero Rosso but also the 5 Star Decanter Award and the highest valuation by the Grand Jury Européen; it was also judged by I Vini d’Italia as best Chianti Classico of its year, with the 5 Bottle title of Vino dell’Eccellenza

torsdag 24. mai 2012

Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio 1997, Monsanto

GF 11.5.2012  Toscanasmaking:

Are mente dette var Brunelloe`n. Litt avslepen og matt i fargen, en deilig harmonisk vin, har mistet litt av den yppige bærsødmen denne vinen har hatt hele tiden. Sigar, noe volatil, jordbær, men en vin med tydelig terroirfølelse. Setter seg godt i glasset, en veldig bra 1997. Viser at 1997 ikke bare er opulens, men at de kan lagres. 88-91 poeng. Fellesscore: 90 og den endte på 5. plass.

Denne kan fremdeles kjøpes på Vinmonopolet, men koster hele kr. 927,- . Varenr. 9770501

fredag 18. mai 2012

Solaia 2000, Antinori

GF 11.5.2012  Toskanasmaking:

75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese og 5% Cabernet Franc. Uferdig og grønn, men et relativt moderat eikebruk fornemmes. Fremdeles tydelige tanniner i en solmoden litt streversk stil. Paprika og østsidepreg, internasjonal i stilen og det er vanskelig å se at dette er en typisk toskansk vin. Litt appelsinskall og solspray med citrus. Et grønt etterslep av grove tanniner i munnen ødelegger endel. Knut mente denne vinen "byr han imot". Tørr, annerledes og varmere stil enn forventet. Solbær, lakris og sigar. Knut ga denne 83 poeng, Roar ga den 88 poeng. Havnet på 86 poeng og 8. plass. (av 10)

2007 årgangen av Solaia er nå på Vinmonopolet til kr. 1 500,-. Varenr. 4805201. Man får utrolig mange andre gode og bedre rødviner til den prisen....

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento 1999, Col d`Orcià

GF 11.5.2012  Toskanasmaking:

Før høstens vintur til Toskana måtte vi teste ut forskjellig flasker. Valget falt ned på flighter slik at vi testet forskjellige årganger av Solaia mot en Brunello / Chianti Classico Riserva.

Dette er en vin som jeg tror Vinklubben ikke tidligere har smakt. Frisk, rubinrød, sursøt, dyp og intens brunello nese. Kirsebær, små tanniner og vinen drikker godt nå.. Småstein, noe mineralsk, opulent og en veldig deilig vin. Roar mente 1999 er for strevt å drikke nå, men smakingen viste at dette er godt å drikke nå. I begynnelsen av sitt drikkevindu og 1999 årgangens tøffe syre kler dette fruktmaterialet godt. Jeg ga denne bare 89 poeng. Noen ander ga den 93 poeng. Felles 92 poeng og nest beste vin.

Er på Vinmonopolet nå i 2004 årgangen. Varenr. 4930801 kr. 680,-.

Chablis 1cru Butteaux 2009, Francois Raveneau

GF 11.5.12  White Wine of the Year:

Transparent med grønnskjær. Litt annerledes vin enn de andre i rekken. Fersk og mineralsk. Jeg var sikker på at dette var en GG fra Keller ! Ren og superdelikat stil. Floralitet og citrus dro mange mot Tyskland. Vinen blir slankere og slankere i glasset, og etterhvert blir det som å sutte på en stein. Ved fåfyll mere skifer og mineralitet.. Kremet i munnen, noe vandig, supersyre. Vi var enig om at dette var en fersk årgang.Ingen mente dette var en Chablis. Jeg likte vinen og ga den 94 poeng. Men fellesscoren var nådeløs. 92 poeng. Sjelden Ravenau blir vurdert som den dårligste vinen !

onsdag 16. mai 2012

WHITE WINE OF THE YEAR 2012 ! Bienvenue Batard-Montrachet 2006, Domaine Ramonet

GF 11.5.12  White Wine of the Year:

Grønt skjær, urter, streng og mineralsk. Flere var på Corton. En veldig "her er jeg" vin, opulent med strøk av smørbukk. Noe bitter ettersmak, som en påfugl i munnen iht. Are. Fattanniner, men ikke skjemmende. Deilig vin og flere mente dette var en vin fra Ramonet. Floral, oljeaktig fet i konsistensen, mye eik, men vellykket. Denne ble kåret til den beste vinen med 96 poeng. WHITE WINE OF THE YEAR 2012 !

Denne var med i 2005 årgangen ifjor 20.5.11;

WWOY 1; Grønt ferskt preg med citrus, lime og dyp eiket frukt. Veldig Grand Cru i stilen med fet og konsentrert, røykfull munnfølelse. En rik vin med touch av bitter ettersmak som bør lagres ytterligere. Overraskende lite utviklet i den typiske litt grove Ramonet-stilen. 91 poeng. Flere skoret denne høyere enn meg.

Pierre Ramonet,W or "Pere Ramonet" as he was known to locals, established himself as a winemaker in Chassagne-Montrachet in the late 1920's with little more than the shirt on his back and the desire to make wine. As his grandson put it, "He started from nothing, with horses." From his start making wine in makeshift facilities with purchased grapes, Ramonet gradually assembled an estate from scratch, buying a piece of Chassagne-Montrachet here, a piece of Puligny-Montrachet there. His first purchase in 1934 was a small piece of the "Les Ruchottes" vineyard which he and his son Andre would go on to make famous.

It's worth noting that the process of scraping together vineyard plots in what is arguably France's most famous white wine appellation is not just something that scrappy, up-and-coming winemakers did in the early part of the 20th century. The total acreage in the Grand Cru Montrachet appellation is about 20. Yes, a mere 20 acres, which is currently split among roughly 16 producers.

The Ramonets have been making wine in the region since grandpa Ramonet kicked off the operation in the late Twenties, and it has been in the family ever since. Pierre Ramonet's son Andre achieved near legendary status as a winemaker (hence the use of his first name when people speak of the domaine), and it's not untypical to hear words like "genius" "mythic" and "pinnacle" thrown around when he comes up in conversation. Now Andre is the grandfather, and the estate is being run by his sons. These two continue to run the estate in the tradition of their father and grandfather. The average age of the vines in their vineyards, especially the Grand Cru vineyards is about 60 years. There are areas, however that are planted with younger vines, but in a strict regimen, fruit from vines under 18 years old is excluded from the Domain's cuvees. Yields are kept extremely low, and the wines are vinified using traditional techniques. The wines are aged on their lees (with all the seeds and pulp from pressing) in varying proportions of new oak depending on the wine for between 12 and 15 months.

Kistler Chardonnay Les Noisitiers 2002, Russian River

GF 11.5.12  White Wine of the Year:

Gul, moden med pappkartong i nesa. Tror ikke dette var en optimal flaske. Meursault eller amerikansk sier Roar. Pen inngang, intens, men mangler endel eleganse. Smør, noe bitter og alkoholsniff. Denne blir for vanskelig i en slik stjernerekke. Kim har tatt med endel Kistler til disse smakingene, men det er lenge siden en Kistler vant nå. 92 poeng.

tirsdag 15. mai 2012

Puligny Montrachet Les Caillerets 2004, Henri Boillot

GF 11.5.12 kandidat til White Wine of the Year:

Mere gulgrønn i fargen med en viss moden profil. Snev av østers og sjø og vi var sporenstreks til Chablis ! En fanatstisk presis vin med kalkholdig jordsmonn og lang ettersmak. Raveneau eller Dauvissat ? Er tydelig Chablis på nesen, men har en fruktkjerne som går mere mot sentralburgund. En særdeles elegant vin, militær presisjon dette, "ordnung musst sein". Balanserer godt i munnen, en spennende nervøsitet i vinen gir den en ekstra dimensjon. Og årgangen bidrar med supermineralitet. Jeg må si jeg begynner å bli veldig imponert av denne produsenten. 95 poeng.

Corton Charlemagne 2007, Bonneau du Martray

GF 11.5.12 første kandidat til White Wine of the Year:

Grønn transparent i en uforløst og usjarmerende trang modus pr. dd. Bra med citrus, elegant og lett, mineralsk og flere var i Puligny. Noe krydder med et godt anslag i litt grovt trøkk innover i smakskurven. Chassagne ? Steinaktig, lett parfymert av fat med strøk av smørkaramell. En relativt rik vin i munnen etterhvert, intens og lang i ettersmak. Men den er for ung og bør lagres. Jeg var sikker på at dette var en vin fra Roulot. Streng, kjølig og korrekt. Nei, denne inviterer ikke opp til dans. Lider litt av at den er for ung. En usosial vin pr. dd, men dette kommer til å bli bra. 93 poeng.

Fra winedoctor;

2007 Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagne. Feb. 2010. Very pale yellow colour. Perhaps it was a little cold, but this was very tight to start with. Eventually the nose starts to give up fresh apple fruit backed by cold (trifle) custard. In the mouth this is absolutely linear, firing into an understated but very long finish that has a little sweet vanilla attached. Only if you keep the wine in your mouth do you appreciate the weight of extract and feel the mid-palate intensity. This is a very tight but very good wine

mandag 14. mai 2012

Champagne Inflorescence Le Parcelle, Blanc de Noirs, Cedric Bouchard

GF 11.5.12 Velkomstchampagne nr. 2:

Ivrig vinøs champagne, litt rart mellom parti og Are mente denne ikke var i toppform. Frisk og god i munnen, men litt off. Har hatt bedre flasker av denne. 81 poeg.

Denne flasken hadde ikke baketikett. En annen flaske drukket uken etter på 17.mai var betydelig friskere og bedre. Den hadde denne baketiketten. Hovedårgang 2003. Degorgert 2010.

Fra bloggen madwine;

Blend: 100% Pinot Noir
Terroir: Argilo-calcaire
Lieu-dit: Côte de Béchalin” – 0,737 ha
Location: Celles-sur-Ource southwest exposure
Production: 2.000 bottles per year
Dosage: 0 g/l
Disgorged: April-2011
Glass: Spiegelau Adina Red Wine (Water goblet)
Almost, means – that I have in fact tasted it before in another vintage (2003) and written a small notice, when I visited Cédric in April-2011. Until vintage 2004, the wine has been made from a close friend of the family. From ‘04 Cédric makes the wine himself. Since the first release of La Parcelle, the 1999 vintage, the Champagne has been sold exclusively in Japan and later in US. Slowly the wine has become more accessible around the world, but like always with the Champagnes of Cédric Bouchard, the wines are produced in microscopically numbers.
The similarities are again a Champagne with staggering level of purity. It’s a clean cut diamond, which sparkles with clarifying sensorial sweet fruit, black cherries, currant perfumes and wrapped in Cédric’s always sleek corset where delicacy are brought to a sensational level. The trademark of his Champagnes are breeds capturing their own dimension and La Parcelle is no exception.
Where it takes on it’s own agenda – especially compared vs Les Ursules are more yellow fruits, flowers and ginger. The structure is also different – feeling even silkier. I don’t always believe in what is best – but you could say Les Ursules are somewhat deeper, more structure, compact and complex.
Having said that – I absolutely adored it, especially how it orchestrated the tonality between Pinot, yellow fruits and this lovely subtle ginger appeal. This I have not seen before from Cédric Bouchard and in fact it pairs even better with food than Les Ursules because of this.

Champagne Josè Dhont, Rosè de Saignèe Brut

GF 11.5.12 Velkomstchampagne nr1:

Da var endelig tiden kommet for en ny Generalforsamling i Vinklubben Kåte Rhoner. Dette er absolutt ikke en standard generalforsamling, den er særdeles extraordinær. 50- 60 viner skal drikkes, spyttes og vurderes, matretter skal tilberedes og mye prat skulle vi igjennom.

PS ! Den første "generalforsamlingen" var St. Hans aften 1989. Dvs, dette er 24. gang !

Vi begynte rolig med denne rosè champagnen som var veldig lite rånete. Damevin, truseknekker, grov mousse, veldig rødbrus/"Donaldbrus" i munnen. Herfra kunne det vel bare gå en vei.. Oppover!
76 poeng.

søndag 6. mai 2012

Chateau Leoville Lascases 1970, St. Julien

"Moden Bordeauxsmaking" hos Øyvind 30.4.12:

Uforløst primærfrukt, ren og solid. Lukket selv om den hadde vært på karaffel i 5 timer. Piemonteaktig tekstur med skikkelig kjakebitt og Serralungafrukt. Tydelige gode og solide tanniner og en matvin deluxe. Viser hvordan rød bordeaux ble laget i "gamle dager". 94 poeng.

‎CB: 1970 Château Léoville Las Cases;
Ruby, towards garnet rim. Superbly elegant nose, integrated, cassis, raw meat, tobacco, fine leather. Fresh acidity, needs a lot of time in the decanter, lively, lovely tannins, long and elegant finish. One of my best 70 Las Cases. 95

The 1970 Las Cases has taken on a garnet hue with tawny tint. The nose is more complex and intense than the palate. The wine offers classic, tobacco leaf, smoky, earthy scents, with notes of dried fruit, and none of the vegetal herbaceousness that many 1970s have begun to reveal. Although this wine possesses great complexity, in typical style of Las Cases, the tannins are still robust, preserving the wine for another 5-7 years.

Chateau Haut Brion 1966, Graves

"Moden Bordeauxsmaking" hos Øyvind 30.4.12:

Mørk og krass, mandelessens og rustikk i stilen. Mangler sjarmen til 1970, noe undermodent og grønt. En mere klassisk jordlig Graves stil. Snev av "gammel Hermitage". Fresh og grei vin, det er tanniner igjen og den tåler nok noen år til. 90 poeng

‎CB; 1966 Château Haut-Brion;
Top shoulder fill, ruby, brick rim. Almonds, a touch of VA, wood polish, roses, tight behind, blackcurrant's leaf. Tighter palate, tannins very ripe, but palate is slightly drying, transparent, green leaf notes in the finish. 89. Better than my last bottle, but still not an optimal one.


This profile of Haut-Brion is one of the last to be added to the Bordeaux section of this site. Certainly the other first growths have long been dealt with, Latour, Lafite, Margaux and the elevated Mouton having had a presence here for several years. This delay does not reflect any lesser opinion of Haut-Brion and, in fact, on the few occasions I have encountered the wines I have frequently been wowed. Indeed, as I explained in my introduction above, it is this paucity of experience of this grand estate and her wines that has caused the delay. Of all the first growths this is the one I know least well, and this is disappointing when considering how much I have enjoyed those wines I have tasted.

                              Haut Brion

Critics are fairly united in praise for Haut-Brion. Certainly, there are vintages which divide opinion, and some that receive criticism. And on occasion some will debate its position vis-à-visLa Mission Haut-Brion, a neighbouring property also under the direction of Domaine Clarence Dillon SA, with some coming down in favour of one and some the other, depending on the vintage naturally. This can be witnessed in the annualprimeur tasting of Haut-Brion which is offered in the elegantly ecclesiastical tasting room at La Mission Haut-Brion when both wines, and both their second wines (as well as the corresponding white wines) are lined up for tasting; it is only natural for tasters to rate one against the other, to pass judgement on which wine has fared best in that particular year. For me, in 2008, it was Haut-Brion, a monumental effort that provided a serious challenge for 'wine of the vintage' (a title which ultimately went to Latour in my opinion). I felt the same way about the 2007 vintage, but I know others preferred La Mission.
More ancient vintages have not, on the whole, been presented to me. The 2004 is certainly a superb effort, but it hardly counts as ancient! The 1961, however, will soon fit that bill. A wine with an excellent reputation, however, I am sorry to say the only time I encountered it the wine was suspect, perhaps the victim of poor storage. What a tragedy.
Nevertheless, although I possess an opinion based on tasting a very narrow range of vintages, I have already come to adore these wines. They are visceral, earthy yet elegant, balanced and harmonious. They take what other properties of Pessac-Léognan offer and seem to turn up the volume, offering greater intensity, depth and breadth of flavour and yet they manage to avoid caricature, remaining classically Graves, classically Bordeaux.

Chateau Haut Brion 1970, Graves

"Moden Bordeauxsmaking" hos Øyvind 30.4.12:

Mørk kjerne med snev av purpur. Elegant, tørr og korrekt. En utypisk HB og "Rake" motsetningen til 1966. Best den første 1/2 timen. Jordbær og lett i munnen. 93 poeng.

                                       Haut Brion Facade1 Chateau Haut Brion Graves Pessac Leognan Bordeaux

Michael Broadbent **** My conclusion is that this was at its best in the mid-1980`s.

‎CB: 1970 Château Haut-Brion;
Bottom neck fill. Bright ruby, brick rim. Very closed first, opens up quickly, refined nose, floral, almost Burgundian transparency, minerals, tobacco and stonefruits. Fresh acidity, ripe and few tannins, elegant, seductive, tender, good length. 93

Clos Fourtet 1947, St. Emilion

"Moden bordeauxsmaking" hos Øyvind 30.4.12:

Pen medium rød kjerne med tynnere kant. Balsamico, lær og solvarm stein. Fløyel i munnen med en god balansert og frisk munnfølelse. Balsamico`en går av etterhvert. Helt avslepne tanniner nå, men de er der. Fabelaktig vin som holder seg overraskende godt.  94 poeng.

Philippe Cuvelier (owner), Tony Ballu (Estate manager).

20 ha, 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc. The vines are about 25 years old and planted on clay and limestone soils. Manual harvesting, sorting (in the vineyard and after harvesting) and de-stemming (twice).

WinemakingThe grapes poured directly into small, parcel specific stainless steel and wooden vats, without crushing. 2 days of maceration (15-18°C) are followed by alcoholic fermentation. Malolactic fermentation of the first wine takes place in oak barrels (80% new) and that of the second wine in vats.

The wine is aged 5 months in oak barrels in the ground floor cellar and thereafter blended. Barrel-aging thereafter continues for 10-12 months in the underground cellar. Before bottling, the wine is filtered but rarely fined. At the end of the aging process, the vin de presse, which is extracted with a vertical press after the malolactic fermentation and aged separately, is incorporated into the first wine about once every 5 years and into the second wine every year.
· Clos Fourtet (about 55,000 bottles/year)
· Closerie de Fourtet (about 25,000 bottles/year)

lørdag 5. mai 2012

Salon 1983, Champagne

"Moden Bordeauxsmaking" hos Øyvind 30.4.12:

Cascolim på nesa, småoksidert med champignong og andre urenheter. Varmeskadet, kjøpt på Planet Wines i Berlin helgen før. Argh !! Obstler schnappss, gammelt klesskap, mørk frukt, snev av madeira. Blir litt bedre, men vanskelig å prate opp ! 75 poeng.

Ser at også andre sliter med denne på cellartracker; 87 points: I was going to mark this bottle as flawed until I read the other tasting notes. My comments haven't changed, but now my hopes that this is an off-bottle have been dashed. Cork was not tight in the bottle, which raised immediate concerns. Then color was a deep gold, more so than I would have expected despite the age. Almost no bubbles apparent. The wine has a cooked apple flavor, some deep earthiness and almost barnyard funk on the backend. Very intense acidity keeps this from going flat. All this being said, it is not bad to drink, just not a wine that I would go back to again and again. Since I have two more, I am hoping the next two are better, but based on what I see here that is probably not likely. Will drink the rest soon and update this later if the other bottles are different.

Tasted by Frederyck on 10/3/2009: Deep yellow colour with heavily reduced fizz. Sherry or tawny port on the nose with some caramel tones. The taste was full of figs, apples and some bread. We drank this very quickly as the bubbles were disappearing almost as quickly as we could pour it! :) I would drink this again if I could find a bottle. (2101 views)
Tasted by thegrandcrew on 4/23/2009 & rated 91 points: Sauternes-like golden hue in the glass. A very particular and complex bouquet on the nose. Aromas of dried fruit, almond and fig, opening up to a box of raisins. The effects of oxidation add to the complexity and intrigue. A complex structure and smooth texture in the mouth. The attack is nuts with almonds and hazelnuts. The midpalate is lemony, and the finish lingers over to apple. Drink now. (1645 views)
Tasted by jhngo on 3/24/2009 & rated 93 points: Deep golden yellow in color. There was no fizzle at all. Not sure now this bottle was handle but the lack of fizz did reduce the special nuances of the champagne. Just a massive champgne with lots of toasted nuts & sour apple notes. Long finish. Very similar in style to a 86 krug cdm but not as intense due to lack of fizz. (2441 views)

Cristal 1975, Champagne

"Moden Bordeauxsmaking" hos Øyvind 30.4.12:

Korken satt godt i tuten. Lys karamell, fresh og balansert. Appelsinskall, frisk citrus/myggspray, slank og noe toffee. Noe antydning til nøtter og bakverk, men det er friskheten som dominerer og "gjør" denne champagnen. Modne bær, sitrondrops og nesten litt montrachetaktig i nesen etter en 1/2 time. Vinøs og en fantastisk god champagne som faktisk fremdeles kan ligge. Jeg synes nok denne var et par poeng bedre enn de andre rundt bordet. 96 poeng.

Fra winezap:
Louis Roederer makes one of the most expensive Champagnes on the market, Cristal. The Cristal Cuvee was created in 1876, when Louis Cristal II created the Cristal for Tsar Alexander II. Today, Cristal remains the most sought after Champagnes in the world, often the bubbly of choice by Hollywood elite and socialites. Cristal is made according to the strictest criteria, based on a drastic process of selection applying to the vintage, the cru, the village, the grapes and finally the wines. Only Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes from the Louis Roederer’s 10 most celebrated crus are used in the production of Cristal. The top vintages of Louis Roederer Cristal are 1975, 1979, 1982, 1985, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1993, 1995, and 1996. The best Cristal Champagnes made come from the 1988, 1990, and 1996 vintages. Of the 1990 Louis Roederer Cristal, Robert Parker says “The Louis Roederer 1990 Cristal is awesome! A classic of power and finesse, richness and delicacy, it may be the greatest Cristal I have ever tasted!” and gives it 97 points. Cristal is considerably more expensive than most other champagnes with the current vintage of 1997 ranging in price from $150-300.

Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1961, Pauillac

Vinmøte Jon 18.4.12:

Tydelig bordeaux med en fremdeles sliten, matt og lilla kjerne. Vandig kant, moden og myk. Klassisk stil og myk fløteaktig i munnen. En helt sømløs vin med en slepen og harmonisk munnfølelse. Noe sniff av "gammel vin"/tjære og baroloaktig, noen var også på østside. En god vin, men litt tam. Vinen holder seg godt. Men ytterligere lagring anbefales ikke. Mitt fødselsår og "min" vin. Dette var stort for Aanerud !  Igjen heder til Jon som åpnet en vin til ca. kr. 15 000,-.  93 poeng.

Dette er årgangene flere mener er de beste av Chateau Mouton Rothschild etter 1945:
1945, 1947, 1949, 1953, 1955, 1959, 1961, 1982, 1986, 1998, 2000, 2005, 2006, 2009

fredag 4. mai 2012

Chateau Rausan Segla 1982, Margaux

 Rauzan Segla

Vinmøte Jon 18.4.12:

Moden og myk vin. Aromatisk og tendens mot sur-søt frukt, jeg var nesten sikker på at dette var en Barolo ! Uren i stilen, siden den var helt uten tanniner nå var de fleste på østside. 91 poeng.


Although clearly in the ascendant, quality seems to have stepped up another gear in more recent vintages. Looking in particular at 2009 and 2010, the quality of wine seems appropriately high. And I do not think this is merely a vintage effect; yes, a rising tide will lift all boats, but Rauzan-Ségla put some distance between itself and the rest of the Margaux pack in 2009, comfortably claiming third place behind
Margaux and Palmer, no mean feat in any vintage. The only downside to my mind was the special one-off label, a commission from Karl Lagerfeld in order to commemorate the 350th anniversary of the creation of the original Rauzan estate by Pierre Rauzan.

Rauzan Segla

Actually, I perhaps shouldn't be too critical of the label. I can understand the desire to celebrate 350 years of history, and what better way to do it through a special one-off label? It seems good enough for the Rothschilds, who commemorated 100 and more recently 150 years since Baron Nathanial acquired Brane-Mouton in 1853 with special labels for the 1953 and 2003 vintages of
Mouton-Rothschild. And who else would the Wertheimer brothers ask to design their label than their in-house pet designer, Lagerfeld? And, to be fair, it could have been a lot worse; take a look at the bling some Champagne bottles are dressed up with by designers of Lagerfeld's stature - leather corsets, fur, diamonds and the like - and we should in fact be grateful that Lagerfeld restricted himself to the child-like crayon drawing (pictured above) of the château.
As for the 2010 vintage, this was also of very high quality, although was very highly priced - with a 40% increase on the already expensive 2009 release price - enough to invoke some criticism from the wine trade, including négociant firm Barrière Frères who publicly announced they would be rejecting their allocation. Kolasa's response was firm and yet also telling, alleging that criticism based on high prices could be levied against all Bordeaux châteaux, but he went on to say "I'm a bit annoyed myself that prices are so high but as the representative of the owners I've had to follow the line". This statement seems to be a clear and outspoken criticism of Bordeaux prices, including those set by his employers the Wertheimers, which is clearly where he lays the responsibility for the 2010 prix de sortie. I imagine there were a few intense debates when Kolasa and the Wertheimers set the 2010 release price.....and also quite possibly after Kolasa made his provocative statement!

The Vineyards and Wines of Rauzan-Ségla

The vineyards at Rauzan-Ségla account for 62 hectares of the Margaux appellation, although the estate in its entirety covers 75 hectares. Kolasa and his team have given the vineyards as much attention as they have the cellars, and there has been extensive replanting and also expansion. Starting out with about 52 hectares of vines planted at 6000 vines per hectare, about half of this has now been replanted at a density of 10000 vines per hectare. There was also the purchase of a further 10.5 hectares, including 1.5 hectares from Alesme-Becker nearby Margaux, and 9 hectares from Château de la Bourgade in Arsac, the fruit of which will contribute to the second wine, bringing them up to their current total. One result of these developments was a fall in the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, from 61% to the current 54%, and a rise in the percentage of Merlot from 35% to 41% (although obviously, with the expansion of the vineyards and increased density, there is much more of each variety in absolute terms). The Cabernet Franc fell from 2% to 1% and Petit Verdot was added to the mix, this variety now accounting for 4% of the vineyard, a decision made in the light of historical data indicating that this variety was once a significant component in the vineyard.

Rauzan Segla

The soils here are the typical Gunzian gravel of the Médoc, and the vines see meticulous care during the growing season, with leaf-thinning and green harvesting as required. As indicated above the fruit is now harvested manually into small trays, Kolasa having put an end to machine harvesting, and then in the reception area passed over one sorting table, a destemmer and than a second sorting table. The fruit is then pressed and transferred by gravity rather than pumping to temperature-controlled stainless steel vats for the fermentation. Following this the wine will then go into barrel, the proportion of oak that is new each vintage now between 50 and 60%, and it remains here for up to twenty months with a traditional approach to racking, undertaken every three months. The finished wine sees an egg-white fining, and is bottled unfiltered.
The grand vin is Château Rauzan-Ségla, of which there are typically 10-12000 cases produced per annum. The blend is typically 55-68% Cabernet Sauvignon with 32-40% Merlot with minor contributions from Cabernet Franc and/or Petit Verdot. Rigorous selection is essential, ensuring that only the choicest portion of the harvest goes into the grand vin, the rest going into the second wine, Ségla, of which there is also about 12000 cases per annum. This has helped to push quality further forward - in 1987, for instance, the entire crop was declassified, with the whole production being channelled into the second wine, or sold off in bulk.

Château Rausan-Ségla (Margaux) 1982: I wasn't expecting much from this wine; several sources of information suggested that this was a rather mediocre example of 1982, with Broadbent describing it as "lean and piquant" back in 1991. Hmmm. Great fill on this bottle, within a centimetre of the cork; this comes from a trustworthy source and has impeccable provenance. Lovely mature mahogany colour in the decanter, having decanted it off a very light sediment. Lovely nose, mature and meaty, a little caramel sweetness and a bloody, black olive note. Medium bodied, elegantly textured, certainly not lean. If anything quite a full midpalate, although with spicy, peppery acidity providing quite an edge. A fine, mature quality, ending with an appealing, meaty, somewhat chalky flourish. Very good indeed. Holding well, but lovely to drink now.

Château Rausan-Ségla (Margaux) 1982:A dense purple-mahogany wine. This wine has a nose of dense and chewy fruit, with some toffee and caramel notes. There is clearly less style here compared to the first three wines. Lots of fruit on the palate, with some floral and tobacco notes. Some spicy tannins and fair acidity. Not quite as impressive as the previous wines, with less character. 17.5/20 (November 2001)

Screaming Eagle 2001, Napa

Vinmøte hos Jon 18.4.12:

Frisk og kraftig, oversjøisk, varm frukt med innslag av kaffe og gummi. Jeg var i sør-Afrika ! Litt svidd og alkoholrik vin med mye smak. En "korrekt" gjærtype er benyttet, for du merker at vinen er godt  laget med en frisk munnfølelse. Men litt plagsom og som Broadbent hadde kalt det "tiring". Vi ga den 87 poeng. Men en vanskelig vin å gi poeng. Spesielt etter at etiketten er avslørt og du vet at vinen koster kr. 15 000,-. pr flaske !

All honnør til Jon som serverte en slik vin for oss. Vinklubben Kåte Rhoner er en god klubb å være i !


It's rare. It's expensive. And there's a mystique about it.
But Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon is no pretender. It's the real thing, and it deserves to be considered among Napa Valley's prestige wines.
In New York two weeks ago, two collectors invited me to taste a 10-year vertical of this celebrated Cabernet, and I have to say it was one of the most inspiring tastings I've experienced, so you'll have to pardon the superlatives.
You can't make wine this magnificent without fabulous grapes, and Screaming Eagle clearly comes from a spectacular vineyard. Moreover, Jean Phillips, the energetic owner, is uncompromising with her standards for excellence. The wine more than lives up to its lofty reputation.

Jean Phillips of Screaming Eagle
I've been fortunate to taste all of the Screaming Eagle Cabernets upon release, and I've had older vintages in retrospective tastings. The reason the wines are made available is simple: Phillips is a competitor. In that sense, she reminds me of Robert Mondavi. The name "Screaming Eagle" personifies her innate spirit and aspiration for perfection. If there's a tasting, she wants her wine on the line. Certainly she doesn't need the publicity. The wine sells for $300 a bottle, and there's a long waiting list to buy it.

Phillips oversees the vineyard, precision farming and exacting winemaking with the help of winemaker Heidi Peterson Barrett. This time of year, for instance, with the 2005 vintage fermenting, you'll likely find Phillips close to her cellar, checking her wines at all hours of the day and night. Call her "Sleepless in Oakville."
Her vineyard, on the east side of Oakville, near the Oakville Crossroad, is one of those sweet spots in Napa Valley. The property, with 59 acres of vines, slopes from Silverado Trail toward the Napa Valley. Phillips uses only a small portion of her grapes and sells the rest. The signature of the wine for me is captured in the rich, loamy earthiness that gives her Cabernet a plush structural foundation and folds in with its layers of currant, plum, cherry and herbal flavors.
While ripening Cabernet (and smaller amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc) is routinely easy in this area, one of the trademarks of Oakville Cabernet is that the wines often display an herbal quality that manifests itself in a variety of subtleties, including hints of anise, sage, dusty berry, cedar and occasionally a whiff of new leather and tar. You find these shades of herb in Cabernets like Heitz Martha's Vineyard (grown on the west side of Oakville), with its signature minty currant personality, or Groth, which is one of the cooler sites on the valley floor.

Screaming Eagle captures the best of all these elements. It also epitomizes exquisite balance, managing both to be enormously complex and concentrated, yet elegantly styled, with a smooth, polished texture. It is the proverbial iron fist in the velvet glove. One measure of its consistency is the blend. It is almost the same every year: 85 percent to 88 percent Cabernet, 10 percent to 12 percent Merlot and 1 percent to 2 percent Cabernet Franc.

I typically hesitate to use the word incredible to describe wines, but in the case of Screaming Eagle, and in this particular vertical tasting of the 1992 to 2002 vintages, it works, pure and simple.
There were a few surprises in this non-blind vertical, of course, but all of them were pleasant.
The debut 1992 is still dazzling. Given its youthful exuberance at this point, it could age for another 10 to 20 years.
The vintages from 1993 to 1997 are strong, too. For me, the 1997 and 1998 vintages are about as different as Cabernet gets in Napa. The former is ultraripe without being overdone, plush and unique in its opulence. The latter is from a cooler vintage, and displays more dried currant and herbal notes. Of all the wines, the 1998 should be enjoyed soonest.
I'm a huge fan of the 1999 vintage in Napa. The best wines from this year show amazing balance and complexity with subtlety and nuance, and they avoid some of the riper flavors that showed up in vintages such as 2001. The '99 Screaming Eagle is stupendous.
No 2000 was sold, as it didn't meet Phillips' standards. The 2001 has been slow to evolve. It showed better this time than it has in the past, with a tremendous surge of rich, layered fruit; it should be long-lived. The 2002 is absolutely delicious, a precocious wine with impeccable balance and a long, sleek finish that mirrors the 1999.
Even for Phillips, who had to pass on the New York vertical to oversee her harvest, tasting all of her wines is a rarity. "I've done a vertical twice," she says, explaining that she doesn't have a big library of older wines. On those rare occasions when she does study her wines, she likes to taste them early in the day, then again before and with dinner, and sometimes even the next day or two to see how they hold up and develop. To her, the rich fruit flavors are the hallmark of the vineyard.
My personal notes from this tasting follow.
1992: Very dark in color, dense and concentrated, with vivid red currant, blackberry and wild berry scents. Youthful, with hints of tar, anise and herb, and all those flavors fold together on the finish, giving it a fascinating aftertaste. Impeccably balanced. Drink now through 2012. 98 points.
1993: A shade lighter than the '92, but still very rich, with elegant, polished currant, berry and plum notes. Drink now through 2009. 91 points.
1994: Splits the difference between '92 and '93, sharing the rich opulence and power of the former and the exquisite balance and fine-grained tannins of the latter. The core loamy currant and black berry flavors pick up a hint of tar and anise. Drink now through 2012. 95 points.
1995: This exhibits the earthiness of the vintage, with mineral, leather and black fruits. It's zesty, vibrant and even a touch racy, with the currant and wild berry flavors building to another fantastic finish. It's youthful in its own way and much better than it tasted in my recent retrospective (where it rated 87 points and lacked the depth and complexity it showed here). Drink now through 2013. 95 points.
1996: While the '95 is racy and showy, the 1996 is classic in its understated richness. Amazing harmony, depth and density of flavor. While it's not as obvious as some other Eagles, it is profoundly deep and richly flavored. Once again, the loamy earth, tar and pure Cabernet flavors are deftly balanced. Drink now through 2016. 96 points.
1997: This wine sticks out for its ripeness, a signature of this vintage. Opulent, with broad cassis, kirsch and blackberry fruit. Intense and multifaceted, it keeps revealing subtle flavor nuances, at times teasing with its voluptuous fruit yet showing a rich tannic backbone on the finish that reminds you it has a long life ahead. Best from 2007 to 2015. 98 points.
1998: Excellent balance for the vintage, as this was not a ripe year in Napa and the wines tend to show more of Cabernet's herbal persona. Here the herb, currant, earth and anise flavors are more medium-bodied. Very complete and ready to drink. Not likely to improve. 88 points.
1999: Another amazing wine, young, elegant, richly flavored and deeply concentrated, with impeccable balance. Beautifully defined currant, blackberry and anise flavors are tightly wound and sharply focused, ending with the vineyard's signature loaminess and a crescendo of currant-laced Cabernet fruit. Best from 2009 to 2019. 99 points.
2001: This was the best the 2001 has tasted for me (I rated it 92 points on release). Very dense and concentrated, even reduced and backward, very slow to unfold. Yet there is a profoundly complex and youthful exuberance in this wine that promises to develop. Way too young now. Best from 2009 to 2019. 95 points.
2002: The opposite of 2001 in its showy precocious opulence, showcasing the classic personality of the vineyard with its mix of loamy earth, currant, wild berry, herb, tar and cedar, with fine-grained tannins. Amazing length. Best from 2008 to 2018. 95 points.

Corton Grand Cru 1998, Joseph Drouhin

Vinmøte Jon 18.4.12:

Moden stil i en nesten naturvinaktig/spontangjæret stil. Tysk pinot tenkte jeg, men vi er jo hos Jon ? En opulent, mørk og rik frukt møter deg. "Full-throttle" dette. Mint, litt grønn 04-aktig, noe grov ettersmak. Men den overmodne stilen overdøver endel og vinen mangler eleganse. 91 poeng.

På hjemmesiden til Drouhin står det dette om rød 98 årgang;
The wines have evolved quickly and show a nice red-orange hue; they have reached a nice balance and their tannic structure is quite fine; the bouquet is reminiscent of secondary aromas. To be consumed now.

Nuits St. Georges aux Murgers 2001, Sylvain Cathiard

Vinmøte Jon 18.4.12:

Tydelig pinot i en oversjøisk og intens stil. Floral og flere gjettet Chambolle. Ren kraft og mye terroir. En vellaget og elegant vin med akkurat passe kraft. Viser ingen tegn til nedtur. Noen mener jo at 2001 årgangen i rød burgund nå begynner å bli sliten. Litt uenighet om poeng. 91-94 poeng.

Den 2ndre vine på bloggen var en vin fra denne produsenten: