Barolosmaking STOCK 20. november 2017 del III

MONFORTE

Barolo Ravera 1999, Flavio Roddolo
Flyktig portvin på nesa. Ikke korrekt flaske ? Ikke vurdert

Barolo Ravera 1996, Aldo Conterno
Blåbær, oksidert på nesa, utviklet duft, antydning til lim. Ikke vurdert.

Barolo Vigna Cicala 1989, Aldo Conterno
Tynn og vandig kant, mye ekstrakt og power. Bred og rik munnfølelse, krydret skogsbunn, kjølig moden frukt, litt rosin på nesa, men stor kvalitet i munnen. 94 poeng

Vinmarken Cicala



                               
                                   SERRALUNGA D`ALBA

Barolo Otin Fiorin Pìe Franco Michet 1999, Cappellano
En yppig barolo med friske og sursøte kirsebær. Pene fruktbaserte tanniner, ingen skjemmende fat her. Lys frukt, feminin, uten sminke. En fullstendig deilig genuin nebbevin. 95 poeng

Fra Dn.no:
Barolo Pie Franco – Michet. Sistnevnte dyrkes frem på upodede vinstokker og navnet spiller på at de står med franske føtter. Dette var nok et innfall fra Teobaldo da en del av vinmarken på 80 tallet raste etter et stygt uvær. Han tok grener fra de eksisterende plantene og satt rett i jorden, med fare for at plantene kunne bli angrepet av phylloxera. Men plantene lever fremdeles i beste velgående


Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d`Alba 1996, Bruno Giacosa
Jordbær (som jeg synes er en typisk "Brunosignatur") En intens og konsentrert, men samtidig superelegant vin. Solide tanniner, snev av alkohol. Bringebær, stor rikhet og kompleksitet. Lang ettersmak, floral. En virkelig stor og rasepreget vin. 96 poeng.

Barolo Vigna Rionda 1979, Massolino
Lakris, "muselort", mørk frukt, bitter sjokolade, fiken , portvin og moden. Utvikler seg negativt i glasset Ikke allverdens årgang. 87 poeng

                      

                           BAROLO CASCINA FRANCIA 

Barolo Cascina Francia 1999, Giacomo Conterno
Kjølig og fresh i frukten og således ganske typisk for årgangen. Lys frukt med syrlige kirsebær. Drikker godt nå, er litt usikker på om dette bør lagres videre. 94 poeng


Barolo Cascina Francia 1997, Giacomo Conterno
Mørk skokrem, overraskende kjølig på nesa som ikke er typisk for årgangen. En god flaske, da tidligere flasker av årgangen har vist endel rosin og varme. Jeg kjøpte denne i Alba. Bra struktur, vinen holder seg overraskende godt , men den drar på seg en varmere tone i glasset etterhvert.
92 poeng.


Barolo Cascina Francia 1990, Giacomo Conterno
Rosin og buljong på nesa. Mange 1990 er nå slitne. Ikke vurdert.


polanerselections.com;

Cantine Giacomo Conterno is one of the greatest names in all of Piemonte. The estate was formed in 1908 when Giacomo’s father, Giovanni Conterno started a wine bar in the village of San Giuseppe. Giovanni made Barolo from purchased grapes and sold whatever was not needed at the tavern in barrel at this time, as was the custom throughout the region in the early twentieth century. Their flagship Riserva Barolo, Monfortino, was first conceived as a means of showing off the quality of their best wine, and was first bottled on its own in either 1912 or 1920. There are reports that a 1912 Monfortino was made by Giovanni, but the family members cannot recall if this was indeed the case. In any event, after his return from World War I, Giacomo Conterno and his father Giovanni certainly made a 1920 Monfortino, and a legend was started.

Giovanni Conterno passed away in 1934 and his son Giacomo took over running both the tavern and the winery. Giacomo had two sons, another Giovanni and Aldo, who were given the reigns of the family business in 1961. Giovanni (grandson of the estate’s founder) had vinified the 1958s with his father, and was responsible for the estate’s wines from 1959 onwards. Younger brother, Aldo Conterno was interested in experimenting with a more modern style of Barolo, and the estate was split between the two brothers in 1969. Giovanni continued on making wines as his father and grandfather had done before them, making great, traditional Barolo of uncompromising quality. Today, the torch has been passed to fourth generation winemaker, Roberto Conterno. Roberto worked side by side with his father for many years before his passing in 2003. Roberto himself is one of the most fastidious and perfectionist winemakers we have experienced, and many feel he has taken the winery to even greater heights than his predecessors.

The Conterno style of Barolo has always been ultra-traditional, with a long maceration followed by extended aging in large, old oak casks (botti). In the old days, aging was anywhere from four to ten years prior to bottling, and often longer, sometimes with multiple bottlings from the same vintage. For the Monfortino, it used to be held in a single 4,000-5,000 liter botti for a minimum of ten years prior to its bottling (the 1970 Monfortino was not bottled until 1985!). Today, the "regular" Barolos are aged for four years before bottling, and the Monfortino for seven years - the only "modernist" concession in the entire vinification and aging process!

Like many top producers, in the old days, the Conternos made their Barolo exclusively from purchased grapes. The Conterno family sourced from some of the best growers mostly in the commune of Serralunga d’Alba but also surrounding villages. The 1920 Monfortino, for example, was made from purchased grapes from the Le Coste vineyard in Monforte d’Alba. In 1974, the Conterno family purchased the 16 hectare vineyard of Cascina Francia, one of Serralunga D'Alba's choicest parcels. The first vintage to be produced from this vineyard was legendary 1978...quite an auspicious beginning! Interestingly, while the 1978 “regular” Barolo was made from grapes in Cascina Francia, it was not until the 1980 vintage that the name of the vineyard appeared on the label of the regular bottling. 

Today, the estate owns vineyards in three of the top Crus in the commune of Serralunga, having added Ceretta in 2008 and Arione in 2015. Eventually, there will be three single-vineyard Barolo bottlings at Conterno, plus the Monfortino Riserva, which is only released in the best vintages. At present, both the Monfortino and the Francia bottling come from the Cascina Francia vineyard. The grapes for these two wines are earmarked while they are still on the vine, with the vintage's very best grapes selected to become Monfortino. Fermentation of both bottlings is identical with the exception that the Monfortino witnesses no temperature control and receives a slightly longer maceration. In fact, two separate cuvees are made each year until a determination is made - usually several years after the harvest - whether to release the Monfortino on its own, or to combine it with the Cascina Francia to make one wine. The Monfortino selection is only made if it is determined to be significantly different, both qualitatively and stylistically, from the rest of the Cascina Francia. 

In addition to the outstanding Baroli made by Giacomo Conterno, there is also Barbera d’Alba produced from both Cascina Francia and Ceretta. The Barbera are aged two years in large botti and are some of the most age-worthy and brilliant examples of this underrated grape to be found in Piemonte. Note: beginning with the 2010 Barolo and 2012 Barbera from Cascina Francia, the wines will labeled as simply "Francia" in order to to comply to the new standardization of Barolo cru' names across the region.

While there is a fifth generation of Conternos now potentially waiting in the wings, the legacy of this winery goes beyond the century of truly benchmark Baroli produced. Certainly, the Conterno family belong in the same visionary breath as Bruno Giacosa and Angelo Gaja in helping to create a market for fine Piedmontese wines that can compete among the world's finest and most prestigious examples. But Roberto himself has quietly and steadfastly pushed the limits of quality by focusing on perfecting minute details in the viticulture and winemaking process. First, the winery has experimental vineyards where various massale selection varietals, both new and old, are tested and evaluated for future use. In addition, the winery itself is a meticulous "labratory" for creating the finest wines possible. No expense has been spared in equipment to be used for qualitative improvement. His de-stemmer, for example, is a one-of-a-kind machine that he helped to to create, and operates with a level of precision more like a japanese sushi chef than other standard winemaking machines!

Roberto has also sought to elimate two of the biggest scourges that face the Fine Wine market today, counterfeit wines and corked bottles. Working closely with both cork manufacturers and cork machine producers, he has developed a system that marks each cork with an identifying code that can be cross-referenced to determine authenticity. In addition, he has helped to create a machine that can qualitatively evaluate each and every cork, not only to detect the most minute traces of cork taint, but also to find any tiny deviations in the cork's structure that could affect its efficacy as a closure. While only time will tell whether this system is 100% perfect, the goal is that Giacomo Conterno will be the first winery ever to fully eliminate corked bottles. A revolutionary concept, indeed!

Red Burgundy 2012

Vinmøte Øyvind 23.11.17

Cote de Nuits -Villagees 2012, Domaine Bachelet
Mørk naturvin, jeg trodde dette var en Cote Rotie ! Grønn og stilkete, jernoksid, primær, 2004 rød burgund ? En moderne fersk stil og vinen har virkelig karakter. Men ikke for alle. 85 poeng


Gevrey Chambertin Viellles Vignes 2012, Domaine Bachelet
Lik forrige vin i stilen. Sursøt med antydning til grønn stilk. Men denne er mer strukturert og solid. "Rotdag" idag ?  87 poeng


Chambolle Musigny Cuvèe des Cigales 2012, Domaine Ponsot
Mørk Hermitageaktig frukt og faktisk ikke helt åpenbar Pinot Noir. Lukket blå frukt. Vinen må lagres. En solid vin, men er dette bra ? Ikke en elegant Chambolle.  88 poeng

ffra burgundy-report:

wines of the domaine

APPELLATION COLOUR AREA Bourgogne Cuvée du Pinson Red 0.5 ha Morey St.Denis Cuvée des Grives Red 0.6 ha Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée de l’Abeille Red 0.5 ha Chambolle-Musigny Cuvée Cigales Red 0.4 ha Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes Red 0.6 ha Morey St.Denis 1er Cuvée des Alouettes Red 1.0 ha Morey St.Denis 1er Clos Monts Luisants White 0.9 ha Charmes-Chambertin Cuvée des Merles Red 0.3 ha Chapelle-Chambertin Red 0.7 ha Griotte-Chambertin Red 0.9 ha Chambertin Red 0.2 ha Clos St.Denis Red 0.7 ha Clos de Vougeot Red 0.4 ha Clos de la Roche Red 3.4 ha

Including metayage agreements, this important domaine exploits about 11 hectares that include 7 grand crus. Many village and 1er cru wines from the domaine have names related to birds and insects, as befits Laurent who, as a young boy, used to collect the poisonous snakes in the Clos de la Roche to sell to the hospital in Dijon for the production of anti-venoms.

Some appellations; Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru Charmes, Griotte-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Denis and Chambertin are farmed either under métayage agreements whereby the domaine ‘farms’ other peoples vineyards, returning one third of the bottles to the owners of the vineyards as payment. Two other appellations, Clos de Vougeot & Charmes-Chambertin are produced from a joint venture with another vine grower, working together and sharing the harvest.

Clos de la Roche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
Domaine Ponsot is the largest owner of vines in Clos de la Roche, their first parcel was purchased in 1872, and their first estate bottling was in 1934. Laurent likes to point out that from their total 3.4 hectares they have 3 of the 4 hectares of the original plot size of the grand cru – before some other lieu-dits such as such as Fremières, Genavrières or Monts Luisants were included in the ‘extended’ Clos de la Roche. The original plot of the domaine was bought by William Ponsot was about 0.5 hectares, so for two vintages (1988 and 1989 when the vines were close to 40 years old) there was a special ‘Cuvée William’ produced in his honour only from this plot – apparently so people could have an idea of the style of wine from that time. Young vines from Clos de la Roche were blended with 1er cru 1er cru Cuvée des Alouettes, but since 1999 not. Today the vines average 58 years-old. With ‘the best’ plots in both Clos de la Roche and Clos St.Denis, Laurent is well placed to judge which vineyard produces the finest wine, and he chooses Clos de la Roche.

Clos St.Denis Cuvée Très Vieilles Vignes
Since the 1982 métayage agreement with the Mercier family, Domaine Ponsot has been responsible for a 0.7 hectare plot of vines in the heart of the original boundary of the Clos St.Denis – not just perfectly located, they are also extremely old vines – for years this was the cuvée Vieilles Vignes. As the vines were planted in 1905, the 2005 vintage (laser etched bottle instead of a label) bears the name “Cuvée du Centenaire” to celebrate those vines reaching their centenary. From 2006 the cuvée is renamed Très Vieilles Vignes. Such is the age of the vines and the selection criteria of the domaine, sometimes there is only one barrel produced e.g. 7.5 hectolitres per hectare in 2003! For me, this concentrated, darkly fruited wine is often one of the top Côte de Nuits bottles.

Chambertin 
Another wine from the contract with the Merciers. From a mix of 60+ year-old vines and replantings – only 9 rows of vines producing between 1 and 3 barrels depending on the vintage. Typically a cuvée that is more elegant than powerful, though the 2005 shows unbelievable depth.

Clos de Vougeot Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 
0.4 hectares of upper slope vines averaging 50 year-old. A joint-venture contract since 1999, when it was first bottled at the domaine.

Chapelle-Chambertin
0.7 hectares of 18 year-old vines, whose first bottling was in 1970. The vines are relatively young, and produce a wine of structure that needs some bottle age.

Griotte-Chambertin
1 hectare of average 18 years-old vines from the métayage agreement with the Merciers since 1982. The wine is always silky, but in 2005 it astounds with its serious depth.

Charmes-Chambertin
0.3 hectares of average 35 year-old vines from a parcel of vines right on the Morey border. Like the Clos de Vougeot a joint venture contract since 1999 with first bottling in the same year.

Older bottles of grand crus such as Latricières-Chambertin may be found, as from 1978 until 1994 the domaine used to ‘farm’ 0.4 hectares through a métayage agreement with Domaine Rémy of Morey St.Denis. Since 1995 this vineyard is being worked by Patrick Bize from Savigny-les-Beaune and owned by a consortium of enthusiasts. Domaine Rémy also vinify and bottle another Latricières-Chambertin.

Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru les Charmes
0.7 hectares of average 48 year-old vines locatedon top of the slope at the same level as “Les Amoureuses”. The first bottling was in 1983, as this is also part of the métayage agreement with the Merciers. Sometimes a little more depth than you expect from Charmes and often a beautiful wine.

Morey St.Denis Blanc 1er cru Clos des Monts Luisants 
Just under 1 hectare of 1911 vines planted right at the top of the slope below the ‘Chateau des Monts-Luisants’ which was built in 1852 and rather larger than your average cabotte! The Clos was bought in 1872 with a first bottling in 1934. The Clos des Monts-Luisants is a monopoly of the domaine that produces white and red 1er cru Morey and also grand cru Clos de la Roche. Since 2005 this cuvée is pure aligoté and often the last vineyard of the domaine to be harvested. This wine rarely undergoes malolactic fermentation due to the very small percentage of malic acid in the must.

Morey St.Denis 1er cru Cuvée des Alouettes
Alouettes equals Skylark. 1 hectare of average 18 year-old vines from within the 1er cru Clos des Monts Luisants, as well as from declassified juice that also (until 1998) contained fruit from young Clos de la Roche vines. Purchased in 1872, first bottled 1982.

Chambolle-Musigny Cuvée des Cigales
Cigales equals Cicada. 0.6 hectares of average 43 year-old vines that were purchased from Léni Volpato in 2001 and first bottled in 2002.

Morey St.Denis Cuvée des Grives
Grives equals Thrush. 0.5 hectares of average 33 year-old vines from a parcel bought in 1872. The first bottling was in 1960, this cuvée often conatains a mix of 1er and villages appellation wine.

Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée de l’Abeille
l’Abeille equals Bee. 0.5 hectares of average, 43 year-old vines inherited in 1975 and first bottled in 1989. This wine comes from the lieu-dit les Epointures which located under Clos-Prieur and near Chapelle-Chambertin.

Bourgogne rouge Cuvée du Pinson
Pinson equals Finch. 1 hectare of average 33 year-old vines purchased in from Léni Volpato and first bottled in 2001. The vineyard is located within the boundaries of Chambolle-Musigny. A 0.2 hectare parcel that also came from same source has been replanted and in due course will become part of this cuvée.

Impressions of a small barrel tasting of ‘Moreys’ from 2007

Morey St.Denis Blanc 1er cru Clos des Monts Luisants: Lovely breadth that builds through the mid-palate. Mineral, with a strong length. Blind, there are a lot of red wine characteristics here – super.

Morey St.Denis 1er cru Cuvée des Alouettes: Medium, medium-plus colour with a purple rim. Deep and wide aromatics. Very round with cranberry and raspberry. Mouthfilling then narrows towards the lingering finish. Very smooth and sophisticated.

Clos St.Denis Cuvée Très Vieilles Vignes: Intense. Goes on for ever!

Clos de la Roche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes: Harvested 20th September. Versus the Clos St.Denis there is a clear extra creamy dimension, similar length and just a little more mineral structure.

Summarising

I’ve a history with the domaine’s wines that goes as far back as 1991 with the Griotte-Chambetin, but no further. There is constant negative feedback about their 1995/1996 wines and every second vintage or so people use these as a stick to beat the domaine with. I have a couple of these, but I see no point in opening them whilst other people say “yuk”.

Laurent Ponsot strongly defends his wines and questions why people would keep opening bottles and pass judgement on them before they are ready. Whilst I share this point of view, I would also be concerned that my bottles show less well than those from other producers, Laurent however, remains convinced that at 20 years old, his wines will begin to showcase their appellations and start drinking well.

Nuits St Georges  Les Vaucrains 2012, Lucien Le Moine
Rustikk Nuits, saftig med kryddertoner. Relativt moden, men den er litt ubalansert i munnen. Noe grønt og hardt som ikke er så sjarmerende. 91 poeng


Chambolle Musigny Les Charmes 2012, Lucien Le Moine
Rik og varm Grand Cru følelse. Litt mye alkohol, brenner litt i finish. Litt vanskelig i munnen og virker hardt eika. Mangler endel eleganse fra kommunen. 90 poeng

Chateau Calon Segur 1947

Vinmøte Øyvind 23.11.17

Chateau Baron Pichon Longueville 1990, Pauillac
Rik, tett og en moderne vin. Opulent og tettvevet struktur. Jeg trodde denne var yngre. Men i glasset etterhvert noe sursøt og tørrer endel på finish. En solmoden og deilig vin. Men jeg synes kanskje den var litt bedre før ? 92-93 poeng


Chateau Calon Segur 1985, St. Estephe
Lys i farge, lyse bær på nesa, deilig parfymert "1985" nese. En moden og klassisk flaske Bordeaux med innslag av fioler, "lett på tå" og nesten burgunderaktig i stilen. Bra syre, vi var litt uenig om vanndighet. Men bør nok drikkes snart. 93-94 poeng


Chateau Leoville Las Cases 1985, St. Julien
Korket, ikke vurdert.


Chateau Rauzian-Gassies 1959, Margaux
Mørk mokka, lett i munnen, noen uharmonisk syrestikk. Metallisk i finish og har mistet endel frukt. Sjelden man drikker gode flasker fra dette slottet. 90 poeng


Chateau Calon Segur 1947, St. Estephe
Pen farge fremdeles med vandig kant. Litt uklar, vinen ble ikke dekantert. Tørket frukt på nesa, sursøt i munnen, kaffe og en viss energi er der fremdeles. Jeg gjettet Bordeaux 1975. Rustikk, tørrer mye på finish, jernoksid, vandig og skulle vært drukket tidligere. Drikk opp. Flere hadde denne i magnum for noen år siden og det var da en betydelig bedre vin. Spesielt var det «47-sødmen» som manglet nå. 91-93 poeng.

The winecellarinsider:

Historic records show that Calon Segur was in existence as far back as 1147, when it was owned by Monseigneur de Calon. He was an important Bishop in the community. This makes Chateau Calon Segur a contender for the oldest property in Saint Estephe. Eventually the Medoc property came to be owned by Nicolas Alexandre de Segur. Which as you can see is where the name, Calon Segur comes from. After passing through generations, the estate became the property of the famous Marquis de Segur. de Segur is an important figure in Bordeaux history, not only for his ownership of numerous top Bordeaux estates of the day, (he also owned Lafite and Latour) but de Segur is credited with uttering the words that spawned the idea behind the heart shaped logo of Calon Segur. Legend has it, de Segur is quoted as saying: “I make my wine at Lafite and Latour, but my heart is in Calon.” That famous saying lives forever on the label of Chateau Calon Segur, where the drawing of a heart is prominently featured on the logo.

Chateau Calon Segur was one of the original three Bordeaux vineyards in Saint Estephe. In 1825 Chateau Montrose was a forest parcel belonging to the Calon Segur estate. In fact, Phelan Segur was also once part of the vast Segur estate. The holdings of the powerful Segur family were so large, they included not only what later became Lafite Rothschild, but also Latour and Mouton Rothschild!

Chateau Calon Segur, The Modern Age

The first part of the modern era for Chateau Calon Segur begins in 1894 when its Left Bank vineyards were purchased by Georges Gasqueton and Charles Hanappier. The Gasqueton family managed the estate until 2012. Most recently, the figurehead of Calon Segur was the charming, albeit eccentric, Madame Denise Gasqueton. Madame Gasqueton ran the estate while marching to the beat of her own drummer until she passed away at the age of 87 in late September, 2011.

The following year, July 2012, Chateau Calon Segur was sold for 170 million Euros, which at the current exchange rate, comes close to 215 million dollars. The buyer is the large French Insurance Company, Suravenir Insurance. Jean-Pierre Moueix, the owner of Petrus and the massive negociant company Duclot, took a minority stake in Chateau Calon Segur.

Since the new owners took over Calon Segur, they started a serious program of renovating the property with a focus on the wine making facilities. Following the trend to vinify on a parcel by parcel basis, the estate replaced their older vats with new, stainless steel tanks that vary in size and number to match all the various parcels in the large vineyard. The new tanks accompany a completely new vat room as well with everything moving completely by gravity. The new tasting room features a skylight giving it a more spacious feel, along with much better light. The renovations were completed in 2016.

More than work in the cellars was needed here. Immediately after the sale was closed, the new owners began an extensive replanting of the Calon Segur vineyard. There are numerous reasons the new owners chose to do this. They needed to increase the level of vine density and add more Cabernet Sauvignon in the vineyard. The extensive renovation of Chateau Calon Segur is expected to cost at least 20 Million Euros. One of the other changes that took place when the new owners took control was bringing in Vincent Millet as the Technical Director.

Chateau Calon Segur Vineyards, Grapes, Terroir, Winemaking

The large, 55 hectare St. Estephe Bordeaux vineyard of Calon Segur is planted to 53% Cabernet Sauvignon 38% Merlot 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. This shows a slight change, with a small reduction in the Cabernet Sauvignon and an increase in the Merlot. The vine density varies, but it is not as full as most vineyards in the Medoc. In fact as many as 20 hectares were in such poor condition when the property as sold in 2012, they were planted to as low as 5,900 vines per hectare. The average vine density is close to 8,000 vines per hectare today, the plan is to increase the vine density in all the plots to 10,000 plants per hectare. The goal of the new owners of Calon Segur is to decrease the percentage of the Merlot, reducing it to only 20% of the vineyard and add more Cabernet Sauvignon vines in their place. Historically speaking, this is similar to how the vineyard was planted in previous generations.

Chateau Calon Segur is one of the few walled in vineyards in the Left Bank. Calon Segur is also known as the northern most Classified Growth in Medoc. However, it’s interesting to note that the estate has two small parcels of vines that are located just outside their walled in vineyards. Those parcels are used for the Grand Vin. Much of the vineyard has a view of the Gironde, which adds to their micro-climate. The vineyard is just north of the small village of Saint Estephe. While there are slopes found here, they are slight, ranging from 2 meters up to 23 meters. The peak elevation is close to the small chapel on the property, just east of the chateau. The vineyard is divided into 3 large blocks, each of which has small hills and slopes. The smallest block, is due south of the 2 main vineyards. The 3 main blocks can be further divided into 60 different parcels. The best terroir is placed to the east, close to the chapel, with views of the Gironde.

The terroir of Calon Segur is a blend of gravel, rocks, clay, sand and limestone soils on the surface with gravel that can be as deep as 5 meters. Underneath, you find marl, clay and limestone. On average, the vines are 25 years of age. The young age is due to the replanting program. However, they have old vines, placed close to the small chapel, which range from 45-60 years of age.

The vineyard of Chateau Calon Segur remains almost exactly the same as it did at the time of the 1855 Classification. While the vineyard is large at 55 hectares, most of the time, only 50 hectares of vines are planted. This allows time for the soils to remain fallow and become revitalized. Because the vineyard is situated in the northern most part of the St. Estephe appellation, quite often, Chateau Calon Segur can have one of the coolest terroirs in the northern Medoc. Thus, they can be one of the last properties to finish harvesting, depending on the vintage. Chateau Calon Segur is also one of the most difficult estates to find as there are no signs to lead the way. Trust me on this one, as I got lost the first few times I visited the property. The previous owner was not fond of visitors.

Making the Wine of Calon Segur

To produce the wine of Chateau Calon Segur today, vinification takes place in a gleaming new, facility that was completed in 2016, after a multi year, top to bottom renovation. Now, the fermentation takes place in 70 conical shaped, stainless steel tanks that range in size from 25 hectoliters to 120 hectoliters allowing for very precise, parcel by parcel vinification. Prior to the new owners taking over the estate in 2012, the wine was aged in up to 50% new, French oak barrels for between 12 to 18 months before bottling. Today, the best vintages are now aged in 90% to 100% new, French oak barrels for up to 20 months in an effort to soften the wine while also adding more layers of more richness to the texture. Previously, the percentage of new oak was closer to 60%, on average.

Production of Chateau Calon Segur is on average, close to 20,000 cases of wine per year. There is a second wine, which was previously named Marquis de Calon. The second wine is now sold under the name of Le Marquis de Calon Segur. There is also a third wine, which is sold under 2 names, La Chapelle de Calon, and St. Estephe de Calon Segur, which is produced from vines that for the most part comes from their specific plot with more limestone in the soil. The owners control another estate, a cru bourgeois property, which is also located in the St. Estephe appellation, Capbern Gasqueton.

The best vintages of Calon Segur are: 2016, 2015, 2014, 2010, 2009, 2005, 2003, 2000, 1990, 1982, 1953, 1949, 1947, 1945, 1929 and 1928. As you can see by all the older vintages on my list, the wine of Chateau Calon Segur evolves and ages extremely well. Chateau Calon Segur is a powerful, tannic wine that in the best vintages requires more than a decade, and often 2 decades to soften and come together.

Style and Character of Calon Segur Wine

The style of Calon Segur wine until the new owners took over were masculine, sturdy, tannic, structured and traditional in its textures with a lean to a brawny of St. Estephe wine that often took more than decade or two, or longer to become civilized. Starting with the 2014 vintage, the wines have taken on a new style. Under the direction of Laurent Dufau, the wines of Calon Segur and Capbern Gasqueton are softer, lusher, riper, more forward and refined in their approach with a better purity of fruit that in my view, are dramatically better.

Pierre Boissot Meursault 2011 & 2012

Vinmøte Øyvind 23.11.17

       

Bourgogne Chardonnay 2014, Michel Bouzereaux 
Blekgul, noe grønt og friskt, litt brent, endel alkohol, fin mineralitet, slank, lime & minty, citrus.
En ung Bourgogne Blanc. ?  Vellykket vin i en meget god årgang. 89-90 poeng

Rully Clos de Remenot 2015, Michel Briday 
Mere tropisk, rik, fet & oversjøisk. Lucien le Moine aktig i stilen. Årgangen spiller nok inn.
85-87 poeng


Meursault 2011, Pierre Boisson 
Tydelig sentralburgunder i en syrerik stil. Skarp, steinaktig, rettlinjet med citrus. Frisk stil og en typisk representant for årgangen. 92-93 poeng


Meursault 2012, Pierre Boisson 
Kanel, krydder, noe skallmaserasjon, tyggegummi og eik. Mere trøkk i smakskurven, Grand Cru aktig format, mere moden og søt frukt. 94 poeng.


Corton Charlemagne 1995, Bonneau du Martray 
Lett oksidert, uren sherry, premox. Ikke vurdert.

Champagne Ambonnay Le bout du Clos, Jacques Selosse

Vinmøte Øyvind 23.11.17

Champagne Roualet-Crochet Blanc de Noir 2008
Enkel frukt, bra syresnert, hul munnfølelse og mangler endel frukt selv i en god årgang. 86 poeng

Champagne Roualet-Crochet Blanc de Blanc 2009
Igjen enkel frukt og den blir enda mere mager i en BdB versjon. Og et dårligere år. 85 poeng

Champagne Ambonnay Le bout du Clos, Jacques Selosse
Degorgert 21.2.2014.  Tørr stil, extrem laserskarp syre. Men veldig lite sjarmerende nå. Bør lagres. Flasken burde vært dekantert ? En skjult kompleksitet merkes. 91-93 poeng

Anselme’s purest expression of terroir is of course the famed Substance, a solera created in 1986. By marrying some twenty vintages, he removes vintage variation, allowing the Avize terroir to speak on its own.

His vintage Millésime does the opposite. Because it draws on the same parcels of vines each year, it is able to express, perhaps more than any other wine in Champagne, the character of the year.

As a pair, Brut Initial and Version Originale show the influence of age and terroir. Each is a blend of three vintages of Chardonnay from the same three villages: Avize, Oger and Cramant. Yet, while Initial is a blend of harvests from the mid-2000s from lower slope vines, Originale is made from older vintages and from hillside vines.

Anselme’s Rosé is pure, intensely mineral Chardonnay from a pair of vintages, with a small amount of still Ambonnay Pinot Noir added.

The Relentless Pursuit of Terroir

In the fall of 2010, Anselme made big news when he announced that he’d be releasing a collection of six lieu-dit, or single-vineyard, wines, each promising to be the definitive expression of a noble Champagne village.

His first step was to change the name of Contraste (his solera of Aÿ Pinot Noir) to “La Côte Faron,” acknowledging its single-vineyard origins. Anselme also released “Les Carelles,” a solera of 100% Chardonnay from the village of Le Mesnil.

Subsequently, Anselme will complete this collection with his 100% Pinot Noir cuvées “Sous le Mont” and “Le Bout du Clos”—from Mareuil and from Ambonnay, respectively. And for his 100% Chardonnay cuvées, Anselme will release “Les Chantereines” and “Chemin de Châlons” from Avize and from Cramant, respectively.