tirsdag 29. oktober 2013

Bourgogne Aligotè 2009, Domaine Coche Dury

Vinmøte Øistein 24.10.13



Soave Classico Superiore 2012, Coffele

Enkel, grønn og kort. Grei vin som vel var bedre i tidligere årganger ? Eller er det bare vi som er blitt kresne ? 78 poeng

Fra dinmat.no;

Fint, kjølig aromabilde med nøytral steinfrukt og underliggende mineralitet. Litt kort i finish i denne årgangen. Forsiktig vin som gjør seg best til forsiktig gastronomi, sashimi. kr. 149,-.







Bourgogne Aligotè 2009, Domaine Coche Dury

Kork, blir noe bedre i glasset, men flaskefeil. Ikke vurdert.


Fra winehog.org:
Domaine J.-F. Coche-Dury is one of the very best white wine producers in the world, thus also in Burgundy. The Domaine is located in Meursault, and most of the wines comes from the appelation.
Coche-Dury’s a bit of a myth among wine connoisseurs, and I have therefore tried to get behind the scene, and analyzed the great success and popularity Coche has achieved.
Domaine was founded in 1920 by Jean-Francois Coche grandfather. Jean-Francois took over the domaine in the mid-1970s from his father, Georges. Jean-Francois Coche was in 1975 married Odile Dury and this led to the formation of Coche-Dury domaine. Today he runs the domaine with his son Raphael, who has been involved in work at the domaine since 1999.
20110626-033922.jpg

Vinification at Domaine Coche-Dury

Coche-Dury is by all standards one of the best producers of white Burgundy, a position he has occupied for more than 20 years. The most impressive is that he has done so without a large portfolio of Grand Cru vineyards. Coche-Dury has a rather modest production and maintains a very high quality – from AOC Bourgogne to the top of the range. Production approx. 4,200 cases annually.
Coche-Dury put great emphasis on work done in the vineyards, when he is asked about his fantastic succes. There a no secrets he says, just hard work in the vineyards. The vines are pruned fairly heavily, and he only use “green harvest” very rarely. They use no form of pesticides in wine production at Coche Dury, fields plowed and cultivated very carefully to maintain the ecological balance.
Vinificationen is fairly traditional, but with quite frequent battonage. Fermentation takes place on oak cask, and the proportion of new oak varies from year to year, but generally Coche-Dury uses quite a lot new oak. In some years they have used up to 50% new casks on the top wines. The wines are raised in barral for 15 to 22 months, and are bottled without filtration.

Coche Dury – vineyards and wines

Domaine Coche-Dury is today almost 9 acres, of which approximately 6 acres Chardonnay, while the rest is Pinot Noir and Aligote.
The production of wine are scattered in a large number of vineyards, see the table below, and on most of these vineyards Coche-Dury have less than one hectare. The 4.25 ha Meursault village is spread over 5 to 6 parcels typically vinified and bottled separately. In reality there are no wine from the Domaine which is harvested on more than 1 ha of Vineyard, and therefore the quantities of all wines are quite limited.
As seen from the table the vines in several vineyards of very old, and this is perhaps one explanation for the extraordinary quality Coche achieve.
Vineyard:Grape varietiesVine ageSoilArea
Bourgogne BlancChardonney1930, 1958, 1975Clay & Limestone1 ha
MeursaultChardonneyvariesClay & Limestone4,25 ha
Meursault Les RougeotsChardonney1940, 1962, 1973Clay & Limestone0,7 ha
Meursault Les ChevalieresChardonney1958Clay & Limestone0,12 ha
Puligny Montrachet Les EnseignerescChardonney1930 – 1952Clay & Limestone0,5 ha
Meursault Perrieres 1er cruChardonney1950, 1970, 2005Limestone0,5 ha
Meursault Caillerets 1er cruChardonney1960Limestone0,33 ha
Meursault Genevrieres 1er cruChardonneynaLimestonena
Corton Charlemagne Grand CruChardonney1960Clay & Limestone0,33 ha
Bourgogne RougePinot Noir1973-1980Clay & Sand0,75 ha
Monthelie Cote de Beaune RougePinot Noirfra 1987Clay & Limestone0,25 ha
Meursault Cote de Beaune RougePinot Noir1980Clay & Limestone0,12 ha
Auxey-Duresses RougePinot Noir1982Clay & Limestone0,50 ha
Volnay 1er cruPinot Noir1962, 1987Clay & Limestone0,33 ha

The most “common” wine from Coche-Dury is his generic Meursault, which is perhaps not quite as generic as one might expect from the table above. There are in total 7-8 different village Meursaults, all vinified and bottled separately.
Most of those are bottled without vineyard/plot information, but two of them, Chevalier and Rougeots, are sold with with the vineyard mentioned on the label. So in reality we are 5 to 6 versions of his generic village Meursault that one may encounter when tasting / buying wine in different countries.
I’ve tried to find some information on different vineyards/plots bottled as generic Meursault, and reached the following conclusion… please note – some of these wines occur more frequently than others:
  • Les Narvaux
  • Les Dessous Vireuils
  • Les Vireuils dessus
  • La Barre
  • Chaumes (Clone 548 – a vieyard his son is renting)
  • “Les Tetes-Cassese (seen in the 1986 vintage)”
  • “Les Luchet (seen in the 1992 vintage)”
I have onlye seen Les Luchet in the 1992 vintage (tasting note from Parker), and Les Tetes Cassese, is only seen in the 1986 vintage, so both may be out of the picture now.
In Denmark the generic Meursault comes from the plot Les Narvaux and this should be one of the heavier and fatter of his village wines – according to the importer. This cuvee should also be the one supplied to American importer.
Besides the village wines makes Jean-Francois Coche also makes three 1er crus Meursault Caillerets, Meursault Perriere and Meursault Genevriers. The first two have been made for many years, while Genevrieres was added to the domaine in 2003. In addition to the three Meursault 1er crus, he also makes Puligny-Montrachet Enseignères, and a legendary Corton-Charlemagne, which is nearly impossible to find – and cost a fortune.
20110626-034111.jpg
Coche-Dury also make some fine red wines from Auxey-dures, Monthelie, Meursault, Pommard and Volnay, and an excellent Aligote.

What is so special about Coche-Dury

Coche-Dury has almost legendary status among wine connoisseurs, and rightly so. His wines are something special, and he almost have the same status as Henri Jayer, who was quite unique in Vosne Romanee.
The first time I tasted Coche-Dury was back in 1995 when I was served a Meursault village from 1992. This village wine nailed several Grand Crus to the wall on that occasion. Since the I have tasted quite a lot of wines from Coche-Dury, and can’t remember a dissapointing bottle (except first tasting of the Meursault village 2009).

Coche-Dury – bouquet and taste

Coche-Dury are very expressive wines that really jumps from the glass. It is not subtle or for that matter aristocratic wines, no they are quite flamboyant wines of almost incredibly high quality.
The first thing you notice is the assertive bouquet of gun powder and hints of popcorn – which can be very distinctive when the wines are young. They also have quite a considerable note of new oak, which together with the various nuances of the chardonney grape gives a complex and challenging nose.
On the palate the wines has very fine textures and freshness that comes from both the soil and the fine acidity structure. The wines are never overripe, but retain their suppleness and finesse. There is a pronounced Coche style, but this does not prevent the individual vineyards terroir to shine through. They are terroir wines but have a quite distinctive style that characterizes all the wines from the domaine.

Why does Domaine J.-F. Coche-Dury make better wine?

A large part of the explanation for the high quality is most likely found in the vineyards, where a thorough work combined with very old vines in several vineyards yield som special wines. He manages to make wines that are both fresh and resilient although the concentration is quite high, something very few manufacturers are able to match.
Coche-Dury are, of course, also very skilled in the cellar, but I think it is in the vineyards he makes the big difference, which is probably one of the reasons that nobody has been able to copy his style and qualities.
Enjoy!

Tasting Notes for this producer

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Bourg

onsdag 23. oktober 2013

Bordeaux 1989

Vinmøte Roar 26.9.13


Chateau Batailley 1989, Pauillac

Medium rød farge, moden med klassiske toner av solbær, sedertre og sigar. Blyantspiss, noe grønn i munnen. En fantastisk vin til 1/2 prisen av andre Pauillac`er. Viser fin kompleksitet på nesa, utviklet, god frukt, god fast munnfølelse, frukten holder godt gjennom smakskurven og vinen avslutter med krydrete mørke bær, tobakk, krydder. 91 poeng


Chateau Montrose 1989, St. Estephe 

Korket.



Chateau Conseillante 1986, Pomerol

Erstatningsvin for den korkede Montrose 1989. Servert litt kald. Litt umoden paprika, men aromatisk og opulent. Litt grønn og vanskelig i munnen.  Eksotisk kompleks nese med spicykrydder og en mix av mørke og røde Bær,  fin dybde på frukten i munnen med gode tanniner som gir vinen fasthet. 90 poeng.





Cote Rotie 1999, Jamet

Mørk vin med sure og syrlige hvite bær. Tydelig Cote Rotie (Wiggo Rossing-vin).God friskhet, men vinen er litt mager nå med svinnende frukt. Elegant nese med mørke skogsbær, underskog, skogaromaer og pepper, elegant vin i munnen som ennå har en livlig frukt og god friskhet. 91 poeng.


1999 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

The '99, which was almost black in the glass, with deep, brooding aromas of black fruits, prunes, espresso and cigar. As you drink this wine you can almost see it in 3-D: layers of fruit, earthy, secondary elements, and the tannic support at its core. Substantial structure is burried beneath all the stuffing. Very proportional / balanced. This is a sensational wine, to be sure, and, needless to say, the group was unanimously blown away by the '99. Interestingly, four out of the six of us had initially tasted the '99 together at the winery in March of 2001, and despite the fact that all of us own some, none of us had had it since. Although it drinks sinfully well now, we all agreed that this will be phenomenal in five+ years. I think it will be screaming around 2012-2015, when the inevitable tertiary components kick it into a higher gear, and it will probably live past 2020 in a decent cellar. WOW. One of the best wines I've had this year. 




Chateau Leoville Lascases 1989, St. Julien

Igjen en litt vanskelig tilgjengelig Lascases. Markerte tanniner, solbær, tørker endel i munnen, mørk frukt og bør fortsatt lagres. Vinen virker lukket og hard og gir lite. Vanskelig vin å vurdere både på nesa og i munnen. 89 poeng.

Denne har vi hatt endel ganger nå:

GF Red Wine of the Year 2011: Xtravin fra Roar; han ble vel så skuffet over sitt bidrag; Gaja`en ! Mørk og tett vin med tydelig Cabernet Sauvignon. Solmoden og overraskende åpen og lettdrikkelig. Eier av slottet, Msr Delon viser sjelden fram sine viner de første 10 årene, og Vinklubben har også erfart at Lascases kan være vanskelig. Men med 1989 er det annerledes sier Delon. Har drukket godt fra dag 1. Broadbent har gitt den ** (**). 93 poeng

Vinmøte Roar 22.9.11; Snev av kartong. Tydelig Bordeaux og Knut var på Domaine Chevalier. Kim sa St. Julien. En god Lascases, men den mangler litt fylde og stuffing i munnen. 91 poeng

Vinmøte hos Øistein 11.11.10: Mørk og grønn paprika med bra syre. Igjen litt uforløst stil og det ligger mer i bakrunnen her. En noe lukket og mystisk Lascases og den var bedre den vi hadde i sommer i Stavern. 90 poeng. 

SN GF 28.5.10: Kandidat 3 Bordeaux 1989. Litt blekere rubinrød farge. Gode solide tanniner som ligger godt integrert i vinen. Fremdeles noen år igjen til toppen. Litt kantete i munnen. Solid ig klassisk. En av de bedre Lascasene vi har hatt i klubben. 94 poeng og denne vinen ble nr. 2. Knut ga denne 96 poeng.




Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1989, Pauillac

Mørk, tørr med endel tanniner. Klassisk og nesten samme kvalitet som 1990. Dog i et litt lettere format Mere moden frukt. Kompleks nese med solbær og sedertre, røyk, pipetobakk, rik, kompleks fast munnfølelse, fin dybde i frukten og lang ettersmak. 92 poeng

Vi drakk denne på GF i 2010:

Kandidat nr. 12 Bordeaux 1989. En solid, tørr og klassisk rød Bordeaux. Moden nå, drikker optimalt, med kaffe og brie på nesen. Viser at dette slottet kan lage fantastiske viner. 94 poeng og 4. plass

søndag 20. oktober 2013

Castell`n Villa 1977 & 1985

Vinmøte Roar 26.9.13



Barolo 1970, Giacomo Conterno

Lys transparent farge med nype og gul frukt. Vanskelig vin å vurdere. Sur søt te med tørket frukt. Ikke en optimal flaske. 80 poeng.

Vi hadde denne også på forrige vinmøte hos Kim:

Metallisk, for mye buljong, uklar og dårlig flaske. Syrlig og uharmonisk. Lever i skyggen av etterfølgende år 1971. Den første Barolo med Cascina Francia på etiketten fra Giacomo Conterno var 1979. 80 poeng





Chianti Classico Riserva 1977, Castell`in Villa

Moden nese med vandig kant. Kjølig pen frukt, men litt tynn i munnen.Tydelig utviklet, men fremdeles god frukt etter så mange år, men viser svakhetstegn nå med noen tørkede elementer. Drikk opp ? 88 poeng




Chianti Classico Riserva 1985, Castell`in Villa

Mørk vin med mokkabønner og rik frukt. I et helt annet format enn 1977. Stor vin som viser en imponerende frukt fremdeles med et livlig preg, faste og markante tanniner som gir vinen en imponerende munnfølelse. Vinen har ennå mange år foran seg og den har nok fremdeles ikke nådd toppen. 92 poeng.




Barbaresco Asili 1979, Ceretto

Lys nebbiolo, sommerblomster, mye brettomyces som overdøver nebbetypisiteten. Pen rødbærsfrukt med noe sjokolade. Deilig, harmonisk og bløt vin. Stor kompleksitet både på nesa og munnen, flott aromaspenn, tanninene har trukket seg tilbake og frukten spiller ennå en dominende rolle til tross for sin alder. 92 poeng



label


Barolo Collina Rionda 1993, Bruno Giacosa

Jordbær, krydderbunn og full harmoni. Fokusert, floral nese og fremdeles med tydelige tanniner. Elegant munnfølelse med ennå livlig frukt og god friskhet. 93 poeng.


For many, a Giacosa red label riserva Barolo or Barbaresco is the equal of any red wine made in the world. Made only a few times a decade, his red labels are not only fantastically complex, rich, powerful wines capable of decades of development; they are also endowed with that rare and magical sense of extra dimension found only in the greatest wines.
So high are Bruno Giacosa's standards that, over the decades, he has deemed relatively few wines worthy of wearing the red label. As a consequence, his more typical white label releases often offer such soaring quality that we find ourselves asking why they aren't red labels. In such cases, the difference in quality may be known only to Giacosa himself.
Giacosa is nearly as famous for his modesty as he is for the surreal character of his wines. As his legend has grown over time, many writers have made the pilgrimage to the Giacosa cantina in Neive eager to learn the details behind his wines, only to receive the simple response that he is a traditionalist. Giacosa has always preferred to let his wines do the talking. "Winemaking involves a great many small decisions, each affecting the next. One can only hope to get them right, to capture what there was in the grapes to begin with" is what he told Gerald Asher in the early '90s; this was about as far as he would go at the time in articulating his methods.
Giacosa has been somewhat more detailed in describing his approach in recent years, yet what he reveals is not substantially different from what other producers do. The key elements in his work are a two- to three-week fermentation in stainless steel at moderate temperatures followed by three to four years aging in French oak botti. Surely, as with an Henri Jayer or Gerard Chave the answer to what makes a Bruno Giacosa wine so extraordinary is contained within the man himself.

A Life in Wine

Born in Neive in 1929, Bruno has spent virtually his entire life in wine, beginning to work in the cellar with his father Mario and grandfather Carlo at the age of thirteen and  becoming fully employed in the family business two years later. Bruno therefore learned how to make great Barolo and Barbaresco—and fine Barbera and Dolcetto as well—from his father and grandfather, rather than in enology school. He learned important lessons from them, not the least of which was how to select fruit. This particular talent has always been of paramount importance to him, but never more so than in the early days, as he didn't buy his first vineyard until 1982.
Historically, the most famous Giacosa cru bottling has been his extraordinary Barbaresco "Santo Stefano di Neive," first made in 1964 from grapes purchased from the vineyard's sole owner, the Castello di Neive. The commune of Neive's soils have a high proportion of clay and produce powerful and structured Barbaresco; Giacosa's Santo Stefano—whether a white label normale or a riserva from a great year—is the quintessential Neive Barbaresco.
From the late 1960s until the early 1990s, Giacosa made several other excellent cru Barbarescos from purchased fruit: Montefico, Rio Sordo, Albesani, San Cristoforo and Asili.But only one of these bottlings, Asili, was ever considered deserving of a red label; it enjoyed that distinction just three times, in 1967, 1990 and 2007.
With the rise, however, of estate-bottling in the 1990s—and thus facing the loss of his traditional grape sources—Giacosa decided to purchase his own vineyards in Barbaresco, choosing what are arguably the two finestcrus of all, Asili and Rabajà. As would be expected, the Giacosa wines from these sites have been profound, whether red or white label, and have added immeasurably to the Giacosa legend. Today, the only cruBarbaresco he makes from purchased fruit is Gallina, which he has made since 1978.
As in Barbaresco, Giacosa bottled a stunning series of Barolos from purchased fruit in the 1960s and 1970s, including wines from Rocche di Castiglione Falletto, Villero, Ginestra, Pugnane, Bussia and Collina Rionda. But then in 1982 he acquired the majestic Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba vineyard, and it became the source of his greatest Barolos—rivaled only by the heroic Collina Rionda red and white label Barolos he made between 1967 and 1993. The wines are divided into two bottlings: "Falletto" (so far always white label) and "Rocche del Falletto," which can be red or white label and comes from four south-facing parcels on the vineyard's upper slope.

The Future of a Legend

Though Bruno Giacosa is in his eighties now, he remains at the helm of his legendary firm, after a period of upheaval surrounding his illness in 2006. Giacosa devotees breathed a sigh of relief with the news that the great man's longtime enologist and protegé, Dante Scaglione, returned to his side after departing in 2008. Today, one thing is certain, Bruno Giacosa's mythic status is the result of a stable of Nebbiolo masterpieces that stand alone as perhaps the greatest of all Piemontese wines.

torsdag 17. oktober 2013

2004 Chablis & 2006 hvit burgund

Vinmøte Roar 26.9.2013



Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses 2004, La Chablisienne

En mere fruktig Chablis, rikere og mørkere enn Dauvissat. Denne også med litt stinky svovel whiff. Noe mere gylden og tydelig fet Grand Cru. Sjø, kalk og hint av hvite blomster med kjølige urter, markant chablis karakter både i munnen og på nesa. Rik, flott dybde i frukten med tydelig jordsmonnspreg og lang ettersmak. Mere fruktdriv, harmonisk og en god Chablis. 90 poeng

Roar serverte også denne på vinmøte for 2 år siden 22.9.11; Blank med en transparent farge.  Veldig mineralsk med flott spenst, medium fylde i munnen, elegant og ganske intens vin. Kim var på Dauvissat. En genuin vin og vel en “overperformer” for produsenten. Får hjelp av årgangen. Nok en av de beste La Chablisienne`r smakt ! 92 poeng







Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons 2004, V. Dauvissat

Ullsokker, noe urent, sopp, aromatisk og litt stinky svovel whiff. Ikke tegn til oksidasjon og god mineralitet. Kalkstein, Kimmeridge og den blir bedre i glasset. Sjø, kjølige urter, tydelig chablis karakter både i munnen og på nesa, famler kanskje noe etter en stund i glasset, men en flott og typeriktige premier cru Viser årgangens gode kvaliteter mht. mineralitet. 92 poeng





Meursault Genevrieres 2006, Domaine des Comtes Lafon

Toastede brente fat i nesa, men god og slank i munnen. Alle var i Meursault. Rik, stor vin, med mye gule frukter, og hint av noe tropisk. Kunne kanskje vært strammere og hatt litt mer energi og livlighet. 91 poeng



Chevalier Montrachet 2006, Domaine Colin-Delèger

Også her mye eik i nesa, rik & fet Grand Cru kvalitet. Nøtter, spearmint med sødmefull ettersmak. Tydelig moden frukt som beveger seg mot det tropiske, stor og rik, kunne vært mer detaljert og tydelig i munnen. 91 poeng.


Bienvenue Batard-Montrachet 2006, Domaine Ramonet

Mere elegant enn de tidligere viner. Coche-aktig sier Kim. Ikke så intensiv som Coche sier Øistein. Elegant, moden frukt med extrem balanse. En vin med stor dybde og kompleksitet både på nesa og i munnen, flott intensitet og munnfølelse, tydelig jordsmonnspreg med lang ettersmak. 94 poeng


søndag 6. oktober 2013

4 Barberaer & en Poggo di Sotto

Vinmøte Roar 26.9.13


Barbera d`Alba Cascina Francia 2009, Giacomo Conterno

Mørk og rå, fersk, tett og eika. Mye ekstraksjon og mangle eleganse. Litt grønt i nesa med rabarbra og piano-polish. Reduktive toner med snev av gummi og varm alko-finish. En spesiell vin som virker mekka og vi er alle litt urolige for framtiden... 85 poeng.

Fra Dn.no

53414 Barbera d’Alba Cascina Francia 2009 Giacomo Conterno. Piemonte, Italia. Kroner 359,90, bestilling
90 poeng. Red & White 
Dufter av kirsebær, marsipan og mandler. Saftig, delikat og lekker på smak med lange tanniner og en pen fyldig frukt som skjuler syrestrukturen. Nå til 2018. Til and og svin.





Rosso di Montalcino 2008, Poggio di Sotto

Lys transparent farge, tander og burgunderaktig. Øistein var imponerende raskt på Poggio di Sotto. Sommerblomster, naturvin, røkt og ikke en Barbera. En superelegant vin som skiller seg klart ut i rekka. Deilig og fragrant. Igjen en nydelig Poggio di Sotto. 92 poeng.


Barbera d`Alba Gabutti 2006, Cappellano

Mørk purpur i nesa, klassisk barbera med kirsebær og nøtter. Bra friskhet, litt eiketoner og etter 20 min i glasset mere rosin og varm frukt. Bør drikkes. Litt overraskende at denne er gåen allerede. 85 poeng

Vi prøvde også flaske nr. 2 med samme resultat.

Vi hadde denne også på forrige vinmøte hos Roar 20.9.12

Transparent og lys. Naturvin med Leroy-aroma, gjær og en genuin og deilig vin. En "annerledes" Barbera, ikke umiddelbar attraktiv, med den vokser i glasset og sjarmerer deg helt i senk etter en time. Superelegant med snev av jordbær og med ganske mye burgunder-assosiasjon. En snill Barbera. Kommer du over Cappellano er det bare å kjøpe. 92 poeng.




Barbera d`Alba Falletto di Serralunga d`Alba 2008, Az A Falletto B. Giacosa

Medium farge og ingen overveldende Barbera nese. Frisk og god munnfølelse, endel mørk frukt, noe lukket og mutt nå. Elegant vin med rødbærsfrukt , kjølig fokusert nese og meget god tannin kvalitet.Synes vel kanskje Bruno lagde bedre Barbera før ? 89 poeng


Dn.no (2011):

49303 Barbera d’Alba Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba 2008 
Bruno Giacosa. Piemonte, Italia. Kroner 258,00 bestilling 
90 poeng. Gaia Wine & Spirits 
Importøren er tom for deres vanlige barbera fra Giacosa og her fått supplert et lite parti Barbera fra Falletto vinmarken i Serralunga. En klassisk, rakrygget, elegant og delikat barbera som er innsmigrende både i frukt og struktur som bare varer og varer. Kan nytes til vilt allerede nå, nydelig også til and og retter av kalv. Med slik vin blir det meste godt. Nå til 2015. OMA



Barbera d`Alba Gisep 2006, Massolino

En vin med purpur fargeglød og med en varm "Cigliuti" følelse. Kan virke som det er noe eik her med florale sommerblomster, noe pinjekjerner og nøtter. Blir bedre i glasset. Rødbærsfrukt, elegant, gode tanniner, men frukten viser tegn til å falme litt og en kan savne litt livlighet og energi i vinen. 89 poeng

Vinmøte Roar 22.9.11; Mørk tett Barbera. Saftig klassisk piemonte med snev av  tjære. Nesten mere mot nebbiolo enn mot Barbera. Sjokolade, sursøt og et kjølig vellykket fruktbilde. Streng og tøff Barbera og typisk Massolino. Litt rustikk og sug av myrvann. 89 poeng.

Fra DN: Siden 1896 har familien Massolino eid vingården på toppen av landsbyen Serralunga d’Alba i hjertet av Barolo i Piemonte. Francos oldefar Giuseppe startet familiefirmaet i det små, og sammen med broren Roberto har Franco utviklet den alltid kvalitetssterke familieeiendommen til en av områdets beste. På våre 22 hektar med vinmark produserer vi totalt 110.000 flasker i året. Selvfølgelig er det nebbiolo, barbera og dolcetto som opptar mesteparten av arealet, men vi dyrker også litt chardonnay på et veldig godt egnet jordsmonn, forteller Franco Massolino. Han og broren har alltid ønsket å forbedre og fornye vingården, men han innrømmer at ikke alle endringer har vært like vellykkede. Da trenden med franske eikefat skylte inn over oss, bestemte vi oss for å legge en av enkeltvinmarksvinene våre på dem. Valget falt på Parafada, og året var 1990. Vinstokkene der er 55 år gamle, og vi tenkte at fylden i den vinen ville tåle den franske eiken, men nebbiolo og den typen eikefat fungerer bare ikke. Pappa kjøpte Parafada da han var 16 år gammel, så marken har stor affeksjonsverdi for oss. Nå ligger alle baroloene våre på store, tradisjonelle fat og bare barbera på franske eikefat. De to er som skapt for hverandre. Det er de to forrige generasjonene som har anskaffet gårdens beste vinmarker. Rosinen i pølsen er uten tvil Vigna Rionda, som bestefar Giovanni kjøpte i 1950. Brødrene Franco og Roberto lager i dag også Moscato d’Asti, som dyrkes utenfor Barolos grenser, og Margheria, som de begynte å tappe for seg selv i 1985. Bestemor sa alltid at det er en tid for alt. Hun hadde rett. Av og til stopper jeg opp og tenker om dette er det rette å gjøre akkurat nå. Alle avgjørelsene jeg tar, får konsekvenser for etterkommerne mine, akkurat som fars beslutninger fikk for meg, sier Franco Massolino. Leter jeg etter svar, går jeg bare en tur i vinmarkene der mine forfedre har gått så mange ganger før meg. Der kommer løsningene til meg på et blunk.

44616 Barbera d’Alba Gisep 2006
Massolino, Piemonte, Italia.  299,90 kroner, bestilling.  89 poeng. Moestue Grape Selections
Laget til ære for oldefar Giuseppe. Nydelig duft av bjørnebær og mørke plommer. Stram og tradisjonell med en fantastisk syrestruktur kombinert med lekker og kjølig frukt. En virkelig referansebarbera. Drikk nå til 2015.

Fra Aperitif: Massolino Barbera d'Alba Gisep 2006
Poeng: 90   kr 299,90
Farge og duft: Klar dyp kald rød. Intenst parfymert duft, nesten nebbioloaktige aromaer, men mer mørke bærtoner og noe fat. Bløtt fyldig anslag, fin syre, god rik frukt, litt ung og røff fortsatt, deilig bærsyrlighet samt noe fat i finishen. En flott barbera som bør dekanteres i dag og som vil utvikle seg videre i minst seks år til. Meget godt kjøp. 90 p (30.04.09)

Henriot & Lanson

Vinmøte Roar 26.9.13



Champagne Henriot Brut Millesime 1995

En champagne som ikke er helt forløst. Fremdeles grønn i fargen og overraskende primær for årgangen. Citrus, smal og balanserer såvidt nå. Årgangen skal nå drikke godt og  skal være relativt moden. Stram, streng og den bør fortsatt lagres. Men noen spørsmålstegn må stilles til stilen. 88 poeng

Champagne Henriot was founded in 1808, but its grape-growing and winemaking (still wine back then) began in 1794 when Nicolas Henriot, a wine and textile merchant in Reims, married Apolline Godinot who owned vineyards.  After only 14 years of marriage, on his death in 1808, Apolline became one of Champagne’s famous widows, forming ‘Veuve Henriot Ainé’.  The house has an unbroken line of Henriot ownership ever since.  In the 19th century more land was added to the estate, with a notable 75ha holdings on the Côte des Blancs and a growing reputation for an elegant style with an emphasis on Chardonnay.
The house has been closely linked with two other famous names.  Apolline’s grandson Ernest Henriot was a party to the founding of Champagne Charles Heidsieck in 1851. Ernest left Charles Heidsieck in 1875 to run the family Henriot firm, only for Henriots to return and buy Heidsieck outright in 1976, this time in the form of Joseph Henriot who was to become a hugely important figure in Champagne.  In 1985 Joseph sold Charles Heidsieck to Remy Martin (later Remy Cointreau), but this deal was a mere curtain-raiser to his handling of the family Henriot jewels.  In short order Joseph Henriot sold almost the entire estate (but he has claimed, not the brand) of Champagne Henriot’s some 125ha to of Champagne Henriot’s some 125ha to Champagne Veuve Clicquot in return for 11% of the Clicquot share stock and ended up running that company within the Louis Vuitton-Moët Hennessy group (LVMH) as he held the biggest individual slice of shares.
In 1994 Joseph Henriot left Veuve Clicquot and returned to run the family Henriot house, determined to reverse a degree of torpor which had set in.  Soon the Henriots had many wine fish to fry, acquiring Bouchard and William Fevre in Burgundy but Joseph Henriot’s overall business activity went far beyond wine too.  He had appointed his eldest son Stanislas to run Henriot in 1999, seemingly successfully, and exports rose during the ‘noughties’ from only 20% to 50% of production.  But the leadership changed course again in 2010 when Stanislas suddenly left and younger brother Thomas has been at the helm since.  Remarkably, for all the changes, quality here has risen dramatically.  Up to 2008 the wines could often seem to lack some zip and freshness, perhaps due to slow stock movement.  The source of its present renaissance owes much to the inspired management and winemaking of the chef de caves from 2006, Laurent Fresnet who has brought a new grip to the enterprise.  From 2010 his wines are a revelation and highly recommended.
Nowadays the owned Henriot estate is 35ha of vineyards, a fraction of its former self buying in 70% of its needs to produce about 1.5m bottles annually.  Certain winemaking and cellar space is still shared at Charles Heidsieck and Veuve Clicquot sites in Reims but the Henriot HQ is at the far north end of Rue Coquebert; you pass Krug on the way. The modest owned land is some 12ha from around the south of Epernay area, 12ha in Chouilly (grand cru for Chardonnay) and some 11ha in the Aÿ, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and Avenay district of the Marne, the southern Montagne.  None is now owned in the grands crus of the Côte des Blancs itself. Instead there are some highly valued contracts with growers in high quality holdings there.
It must be quite a balancing act keeping up the high quality contract sources of Chardonnay from favoured sites which the house now relies on. Laurent Fresnet has a hectic schedule of overseeing the growers, determined that the house’s Blanc de Blancs, which has emerged as its leading flagship, will get even better. The house has always insisted on minimal fungicide spraying and no herbicides are used.
My view is that the Henriot house has only recently emerged from a period of instability and neglect. From 1985 to 1990 there would have been a difficult period of securing stable high quality grape supplies as the entire estate holdings had been sold.  While Joseph Henriot returned to the house in 1994 the work of his son Stanislas concentrated successfully on developing export distribution rather than the winemaking and grape supply.  Prior to 2008 stocks of wine sur lattes were slow moving in spite of selling several vintage versions at a time.  While the house has always given its wines admirable long aging on the second lees, up to 2008 several of its wines tasted slightly dull and with a toffee note of oxidation.  This period of doldrums is thankfully over with what appears to be the talented focus of chef de caves Laurent Fresnet.
The Henriot style now showing so well, is distinctive.  All the wines have impressive long aging, the entry level Brut Souverain at least three years, the Blanc de Blancs 4-5 and vintage wines longer.  There is too a high fraction of complexing reserve wines used and some 10% of these are kept in a perpetual ‘solera’ type blend begun in 1990 and refreshed each harvest.  The other reserves are kept by cru and variety in small stainless steel. Malolactic is generally completed and no wood is used at all.  Such a strategy demands intense management but the results are clear: wines that combine complexity from ageing and reserves with a striking freshness and finesse with high proportions of Chardonnay used, now some 50-60% of the overall material.  A high wire act being accomplished now it seems with real success. Two thirds of supply is from grands and premiers crus. The recent addition of small fractions of Pinot Meunier into the blends of the Brut NV Souverain (about 40CH 52PN 8PM) and the Rosé NV (about 60PN 37CH 3PM) is a new winemaking facet and a break with the Henriot traditon of eschewing Meunier.  To me this is positive, linking the complex less primary notes of age and reserves and the incisiveness of high levels of Chardonnay by rounding them out.
The current trump card of the house is the Blanc de Blancs.  About 40% of the fruit is from the grands crus of the Côte de Blancs, 40% from the premiers crus Trépail, Villers-Marmery and Vaudemange triangle of Chardonnay specialist villages on the eastern tip of the Montagne and some 20% from Sézanne, Montgeux and Vitry-le-Francois. The current release (base 2006) is aged 3-5 years on the lees, high for an NV Blanc de Blancs, with some 30% reserves, mainly from 2005 and is dosed at 9g/L.  The result is an impressively herbal, floral and spicey nose with a lovely smoky and biscuit background of complexity, creamy texture and concentrated length.  Fresh, citrus top notes but set in some elements of balancing maturity.







Champagne Lanson Brut 1988


Fremdeles lys og pen farge. Mere frukt enn Henriot`en og mere utviklet. Samtidig typisk Lansom med non-malo og skrikende syre. Utviklet duft med sopparoma, trøffel og nedfallsepler. Autolyse, klassisk og skarp i munnen. En god 1988. 90 poeng


Fra dn.no:


63264 Lanson Millesime Brut 1988

Lanson. Champagne, Frankrike
Kroner 2.900,- 1500 ml. spesialpol. 90 poeng. Stenberg & Blom 
Smakt flere ganger tidligere, og da med gammel degorgering, som faktisk er å foretrekke. Dufter modent av sopp, nøtter og tørket frukt. Moden frukt på smak med en spenstig syre og avslipt utgang. Alle 6 pol. Drikk nå til 2018. Passer til sopp og spekeskinke. MB