Soldera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1990, Case Basse
Litt tyggegummi og spearmint i nesa. Varm og intens kjernefrukt av Sangiovese i munnen. Røde friske og intense bær. Silkemyk samtidig utfordrende munnfølelse hele veien. En fantastisk elegant og harmonisk vin. 92-96 poeng. Jon var på 92, Roar på 93. Hele 4 kåte rhoner var på 96 poeng. Som er sjelden vare i denne klubben.
Gianfranco Soldera began working in Brunello in the 1970s. Intistieti was the first vineyard he planted in 1971, from which he made his first Brunello in 1977. In 1972 he planted another vineyard, Casse Basse, which is slightly lower with heavier soils, making wines that are richer and more tannic. Casse Basse is also the name of Gianfranco’s estate. Intistieti is poorer soil, higher up, and makes wines that are perhaps finer in their youth but which have no problem with staying power. Both age remarkably well.
Initially, the Casa Basse grapes were used to make a Vino da Tavola Rosso, and only with the 1988 vintage did Gianfranco use this vineyard to make Brunello. Altogether, he has some 8 hectares, and with phenomenally low yields this results in some 15 000 bottles annually.
The vineyards are managed naturally, as an integrated ecosystem where refuge areas are set aside for natural predators. No herbicides are used and the fertilizers applied are organic. Gianfranco’s wife Graziella is a world authority on wild roses and the Casse Basse estate has a large collection of these. The vines themselves are clones Gianfranco isolated from old vineyards, which he propagated himself.
Interestingly, Gianfranco sets aside a certain amount of his turnover for research in viticulture and winemaking. He’s a great believer in tradition, but also has a scientific approach. The cellar is constructed naturally with no cement or foreign materials.
Soldera has been good friends for thirty years with Giulio Gambelli, who is celebrated as one of the greatest experts on Sangiovese. Gambelli is now in his 80s and still consults for Soldera. Winemaking here is traditional, with a long maceration with some pumping over before ageing in large Slavonian barrels (botti) for 48–65 months. He uses very little sulphur dioxide.
Volnay Mitans 1996, Hubert de Montille
Vinhas Velhas 2001, Louis Pato
Rik , varm og fet rødbærsfrukt. Mørk vin og noen mente dette kunne være en Brunello. Susøt, solid og genuin frukt. Røykaktig og tørrer godt i munnen. Intens og en veldig god portugisisk rødvin. 89 poeng.
Barbaresco Riserva 1990, Bruno Giacosa
Mørk frukt med innslag av krydder/kanel. Gattinara-aktig klassisk ren nebbe. Klokkeren. Mye Asili ? Igjen en lekker vin fra Bruno. Uenighet om kvalitet på flasken. 88-94 poeng.