tirsdag 22. november 2016

Cristal & Dom Perignon 1985 & Selosse


Piemonte 10. -12. november 2016










Cristal 1985
Lakserosa mot oransje kant, brunbitter engelsk marmelade i munnen, lite mousse, grapefrukt og mye utvikling her. Mange champagner fra 1985 er "kjørt" allerede  og dette var nok ikke en optimal flaske. 89-93 poeng.


Dom Perignon 1985
Gylden, mere citrus og betydelig friskere enn Cristal 1985. Syrlig og godt balansert uten den karakteristiske kaffearomaen som Dom Perigon ofte har. En veldig god flaske. 94 poeng



Jacques Selosse Les Carelles Mesnil Sur Oger
Gogget i januar 2015. Strågul mot gylden. Begynnende modning, men dette var stramt og presist. Ekstrem energi som bare delvis utfoldes. Men en lang og rettlinjet stålsyre gjør det til en fantastisk champagne. Bør fortsatt lagres. 95-97 poeng.


Jacques Selosse Les Bout du Clos Ambonnay
Gylden og dyp mot oransj. Revet appelsinskall på nesa med snev av Sauternes/botrytis. Mere utviklet stil enn Les Mesnil med tørket frukt, frisk marmelade og skallfermentasjon.  Utvikler seg mye i glasset og oppleves som best og mest frisk første halvtimen. Som man ofte gjør med Pinot Noir dominerte champagner synes jeg. Men en strålende champagne var det. 94-95 poeng.


Frederic Savart  L`Ouverture Brut Premier Cru 
Ambiøst navn på en relativt enkel champagne. Degorgert i mai 2016 og det bidrar nok til en uharmonisk munnfølelse. En frisk 100% Pinot Noir champagne, med tydelig rødbærsfrukt, men bør nok ligge lengre på langs for en bedre opplevelse. Dn.no ga denne merkelig nok 90 poeng ifjor.       84 poeng


mandag 21. november 2016

Barolo Monprivato 1989, G. Mascarello

Centro Storico lørdag 12.11.16


Barolo Monprivato 1989, G. Mascarello
Intens ruby farge med mørk kjerne og vandig kant. Henger på glasset, tung og intens nese av sorte, mørke og fullmodne kirsebær. Det som slår deg er den gode konsentrasjonen, en enorm superlang 60 sekunders + ettersmak. Dyp nese som utvikler seg fantastisk i glasset, solmoden cassis, nesten bordeaux`s i snittet med elegante solide og integrerte tanniner. Tror denne vinen har drukket bra fra dag en og vil drikke fabelaktig i 20 år til. Etter 20 minutter i glasset utvikler den mere klassiske nebbearomaer, fra cassis til nype, rose og fjærlette strøk av tjærebåt. Men etter 10 minutter igjen lukter det Cote Rotie, Napa og Bordeaux ! For en vin ! En universell vin, en vin fra alle verdens hjørner, her kommer kvalitet framfor terroir. Dette er den beste vinen jeg ha smakt fra Piemonte, slår den beste Bruno og den beste Giacomo ! 97-99 poeng


From vinous.com;
Even though the Mascarello winery went through a period of obscurity, I always find it fascinating that the current generation of younger producers often speaks with great respect and reverence about Giuseppe Mascarello, the man and winemaker. Pricing has moved slightly over the years such that until very recently Monprivato was arguably the most undervalued Barolo among the region’s cellar worthy, iconic wines.
The first Barolo Mauro Mascarello made at his family’s winery was the 1967, another wine that is legendary. Mascarello crafted the 1967 Barolo just as his father had done before him, blending fruit sourced from three vineyards; Monprivato, Villero and Bussia Soprana. The conventional wisdom at the time held that the most complete and complex Barolos were those that combined elements from various sites. Some vineyards were known for their aromatics, others for their fruit and yet other plots were highly regarded for the structural elements they imparted on the wines. But Mascarello yearned for something more. He wanted to make a single-vineyard Barolo, and he thought his Monprivato vineyard was that rare site that could express all of the facets of Nebbiolo on its own.
It took a few years of convincing, but Giuseppe Mascarello finally relented and let his son Mauro make a single-vineyard Barolo in 1970. He also gave Mauro a very valuable piece of advice in directing him to the very best fruit in the Monprivato vineyard. If Mauro was hell-bent on making this wine, Mascarello senior reasoned, he might as well use the parcel in the heart of the vineyard planted with the rare Michet clone, which was known to yield wines of extraordinary power, richness and longevity.
Michet, believed by some observers to be a diseased strain of the more common Lampia clone, is naturally low-yielding and late to ripen, because of the genetic mutations it carries. Mauro Mascarello’s grandfather, Maurizio, planted the first Michet clones in his Monprivato vineyard in 1922. A second parcel of Michet was planted by Giuseppe Mascarello in 1963 using the best-performing plants from the original plot, a process known as selezione massale. Mauro Mascarello himself planted the third and fourth selections later, in 1988 and 1994 respectively.
Neither Mascarello could have ever predicted how successful Mauro would be. The 1970 Barolo Monprivato turned out to be the archetype for two wines; the modern-day single-vineyard Barolo Monprivato as well as the 100% Michet Barolo Monprivato Riserva Cà d’Morissio, a wine Mascarello finally produced in 1993 after 23 years of research that in reality dates back to vines his grandfather first planted more than 70 years before. For reasons that aren’t entirely clear, after 1970 the Michet-only Monprivato was not made again until 1993. This tasting covered all of the Michet Monprivatos plus a number of other reference-point Barolos, just to round out the line-up.
Today, Mascarello typically harvests his Nebbiolo in the second half of October. Fermentation and maceration are carried out with indigenous yeasts and last about three weeks. The wines are aged in cask for roughly three and half years (for the Monprivato) to four and half years (for the Cà d’Morissio). Mascarello only makes the Cà d’Morissio when he feels the wine is sufficiently different from his Monprivato to warrant a separate selection, a decision he typically takes just prior to preparing the wines for bottling.  So far five vintages of Cà d’Morissio have been released; 1993, 1995, 1996, 1997 and 2001. The 2003 will be released in 2010, followed by the 2004. There will be no 2005 Cà d’Morissio.
Mascarello’s 1989 Barolo Monprivato is one of the all-time legendary wines from Piedmont. It is easy to see the linkage between 1989 and 1996, two of the greatest vintages ever to grace the region. The 1989 Barolo Monprivato is simply captivating as layers of sweet roses, minerals, spices, licorice and flowers come together in the glass. The wine is ultimately about balance; elegance and power, structure and accessibility – they are all on full display in this magical Barolo. 97/Drinking window: 2009-2029.
Antonio Galloni

onsdag 2. november 2016

Magiske Moric

Vinmøte Jon 27.10.16





Beaune Les Boucherottes 2001, Domaine A.F. Gros
Lys granateple med karakteristisk hard steinfrukt alà rustikk Beaune. Matt, noe krydder med snev av fat og spicy elementer. Solide "kjake"tanniner og stofflige kirsebær. Lurer på om frukten har dratt fra denne for mye ? Viser at Mæleng har rett at 2001 rød burgund er sliten nå ? 89 poeng.

Smaksnotat fra Dn.no for over 7 år siden !:

59072 Beaune 1er Cru Boucherottes 2001 
Domaine AF Gros. Burgund, Frankrike. Kroner 260,10. 90 poeng. Nafstad 
Lett moden vin med 2001-årgangens letthet. Sopp og underskog på duft. Frisk, delikat og lang på smak. Et godt kjøp i dagens marked for modne røde burgundere. Nå til 2015 TM




Chambolle Musigny 2005, Gislaine Barthod
hadde endel herbal og undermoden frukt. Noe som jeg synes var overraskende i en såpass vellykket og stor årgang. Kan det være at de høstet litt for tidlig i det gode været ? Samtidig kom det fram en del skallmaserasjon/friskhet/hele klaser ? som bidro til at vinen ikke fremsto som en typisk feminin og fragrant Chambolle. Kan det være at årgangen er såpass rik på frukt at den overskygger f.eks. den elegante stilen en Chambolle skal ha ? 90 poeng



Crystallum Mabalel Pinot Noir 2014, Sør-Afrika
Primær og purpur, blank og ung. Kjølig frukt med rips og jordbær. Spâtburgunder fra Ahr ? Banan, svovel og tyggis. 88 poeng.


Lutzmanns Burg Alte reben Blaufrânkish 2007, Moric
Dette var utvilsomt den beste røde østerrikske vinen smakt hittil i Vinklubben. At blaufrankisch kan levere på et så høyt nivå var imponerende. Moden mørk kaffe, eik, urtete, furunål, Bordeauxish. Tignanello ? Kirsebær og eukalyptus. 91 poeng 





Xinomavro

Pans vei 2.11.16


Ramnista Xinomavro 2012, Kir-Yianni
Mørk farge, eksotisk søt nese med whiff av Musar. Varm munnfølelse med en bitter kant. Et tydelig fatpreg gir vinen en uharmonisk tørr finish som jeg tviler på blir borte over tid. Jeg trodde dette var "den nye vin" fra Hellas, men her var mye ved det gamle. Ser at Aperitif likte denne vinen godt. Jeg er ofte uenig med Aperitifs vinvurderinger gitt. 79 poeng.

tirsdag 1. november 2016

Roulot

Vinmøte Jon 27.10.16



Puligny Montrachet 2004 Lequin Colin viste årgangens storhet i hvit burgund. Vinen var jo relativ rimelig da den ble lansert på Vinmonopolet (kr. 270,-) og den holder seg fremdeles frisk og vital. Strågul mot gylden farge fremdeles med en liten grønn kant. Moden og fremoverlent frukt, en anelse herbal og typisk 04 mineralsk. Noen gjettet Meursault pga. den modne frukten. Kan fremdeles ligge. 91 poeng

Fra Dn.no: François Lequin-Colin overtok familiegården for i 2005, og ikke alle årganger har vært like spennende. Men med 2013-årgangen tar han konkurransen opp med de virkelig store i Burgund. Hovedforskjellen er at Lequin-Colins viner er tilgjengelige til en gunstigere pris. Lequin-Colins hvitviner fra 2013 har akkurat det du ønsker i en hvit burgunder, og litt til: Konsentrert, med en moden og sammensatt, typeriktig mineralsk frukt, pent integrert eikepreg og spenstig syre. Familien har gjort seg bemerket som den kanskje beste produsenten i Santenay, sør i Burgund. Suksessen ble skapt av François’ foreldre. René Lequins giftet seg med Josette Colin, som kom fra en annen vinmakerfamilie fra nabolandsbyen Chassagne-Montrachet. Sammen bygget de opp en liten og familiedrevet vingård på nittitallet. Totalt eier familien Lequin-Colin i dag ni hektar vinmark, hvorav mesteparten befinner seg i Santenay og Chassagne-Montrachet, mens det resterende befinner seg i Saint-Aubin, Nuits-Saint-Georges og Pommard. Rosinen i pølsen er 0,12 hektar med Bâtard-Montrachet, 0,09 hektar med Corton les Languettes og 0,09 hektar med Corton Charlemagne.


Meursault Les Tessons Clos de Mon Plaisir 2006 Domaine Roulot
Hvis den forrige vinen var litt "meursaulsk" var denne litt "pulignyish" ! Klar og ren i en typisk grønn og dyp konsentrert Roulot stil. Noe strågul , god mineralitet med et snev av utvikling. Flint og vinen balanserer godt. Presis og elegant, selv med et touch av alkohol. Viser at igjen at 2006 er en god hvit burgundårgang. 92 poeng.


20140402-171600.jpg

Fra winehog:
Single vineyard village wines are becoming more and more popular in Burgundy, as the focus on terroir and the quality of the different climates increases.
Meursault is one of the appellations where the tradition with single vineyard village is becoming more deeply rooted in the Burgundian soil.
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Producers like Coche-Dury and Domaine Roulot have a quite large selection of village wines, and others like Jean-Philippe Fichet, Arnaud Ente and Michel Bouzereau also have more village bottlings.
This eventually leads to the question … what are the best and most prominent village terroirs in Meursault.

Historic view on the Meursault village terroirs

As always one can turn to the historic sources, to see how the vineyards were regarded in the good old days!
For appellations like Meursault this will however only yield part of the answer, as some vineyards were producing reds if we go 100 years back, and other vineyards especially at the top of the slope were not fully developed and thus not a part of the classification in the 1850s and 1860s.
Lastly the climate change seem to have elevated the quality of some of the vineyards high on the slope, and in my view the old classifications are therefore somewhat biased towards the terroirs located in the bottom of the slope.
So the full answer will not be found in the historic sources … but I think there is some important knowledge to be found.

The Lavalle classification in 1855

The Lavalle1 strongpoint is the classification of the northern appellations, the white appellations are not that well covered by Lavalle, and the classification seems a bit more erratic. That being said Lavalle has done a tremendous job in his book, as one of the first covering this in detail.
Lavalle has Les Perriéres both Dessus and Dessous as Tète de Cuvée and among the Premiére Cuvées we find one current village vineyard – Les Tessons (5.2930 ha) alongside the upper parts of Genevriéres and Charmes, La Goutte-D’Or and Les Bouchéres1
Moving on to the Deuxiéme Cuvées we find Le Rougeot (3.1740 ha) and Les Grands Charrons (15,054 ha), Les Chevaliéres (10,3870 ha) alongside Le Porusot-Dessus and Le Porusot1.
Interestingly the lower part of Genevriéres and Charmes are not mentioned by Lavalle in his classification.

The 1862 classification

Moving on to the 1862 classification2 we find a more detailed picture of Meursault. In this article I will focus only on the terroirs producing whites in 1862.
Among the 1re Classe we now find the Blagny side 1er crus La Piéce sous-le-Bois, La Jeunelotte, Sous-Blagny, Sous-le-Dos d’Ane and Le Dos-d’Ane all located in the Blagny section of Meursault2. These were not mentioned by Lavalle, as the Blagny “area” were somewhat overlooked by Lavalle – at least in the versions I have.
Moving on to 2e Classe we find the following village terroirs Les Petits-Charrons, Les Chevaliéres, Les Rougeots, Le Tesson, Les Grands-Charrons2.
Parts of La Barre-Dessus, Les Perchots (below La Barre Dessus), and Le Lemosin (below Genevriéres) were also classified as 2e Classe in the very detailed 1862 classifcation2.
The classification can be seen on the map below2, with all the 2e Classe vineyards marked yellow. Please note this is a mixed classification showing both red and whites, and while a terroir is good for reds, it’s not necessarily as good for whites … and vice versa.
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Map from Batault-Morot, E. Plan statistique des vignobles produisant les grands vins de Bourgogne. (1861) – click to enlarge map

The Rodier classification from 1920

Rodier3 mentioned the village terroirs Les Rougeots, Les Grands-Charrons, Les Petits-Charrons, Les Chevaliéres, Le Tesson as Deuxiémes Cuvées in his classification from 1920.
It should be noted that terroirs like Cromin and Les Meix Chaveaux were producing reds when Rodier made his classification, so things have changed somewhat over the last 80 years.

The best village terroirs – according to the old classifications

The tree classifications above show a quite similar pattern with only Le Tesson edging a bit in front of the others in the Lavalle classification. But that aside there seem to be consensus about the following vineyard as the best village terroirs in Meursault:
  • Le Tesson
  • Le Rougeot
  • Les Chevaliéres
  • Les Grands–Charrons
  • Les Petits-Charrons
These vineyards are all located north of the classic 1er crus of Meursault, and just above the village – see map below.
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Click to enlarge map
The five vinyards are located at almost the same altitude as the 1er crus south of the village, and presumably with the best vineyards at the top, just as with the 1er crus. The map below show the five village terroirs in detail.
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Click to enlarge map

Meursault Le Tesson – 1er cru? or close to 1er cru

Le Tesson is according to the old classifications among the best or if not the best of the current Meursault village climates.
The Tesson vineyard is located above the village of Meursault, at approximately the same altitude as the lower part of Perrieres, and above Les Grand-Charrons – see map above.
Domaine Roulot makes the most prominent Le Tesson – the cuvee Les Tesson Clos de Mon Plaisir, and this is normally the best of Roulots large selection of village Meursaults. It seems to combine the minerality of the higher located village wines like Luchets and Tillets with a 1er cru like weight and persistence, thus elevating the wine to a good 1er cru level.
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Click to enlarge map
I’m not suggesting that it’s a big 1er cru, as it in my view can’t challenge Boucheres and Perrirers from Roulot on any level, but it have the qualities that can rival even very good wines from Gouttes d’Or or the lesser parts of Meursault Charmes.


Crystallum Clay Shales Chardonnay 2015, Sør Afrika

Grønn, transparent  med spisskumin, Litt mmye alkohol, uharmonisk , tropisk og fet. Samtidig litt riesling og Sauvignon Blanc ! Vi var på oversjøisk, men ikke på Chardonnay ! 82 poeng.






Chablis Les Forets 1995, Vincent Dauvissat

Botrytis, eldre vin. Chablis ? På grensen til det oksidative. Dvask, tørr og utviklet. Men bra syre. Jon har servert denne flere ganger og de fleste er gone. Denne var noe bedre. 87 poeng