CASTIGLIONE FLIGHT
Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis V. San Guiseppe 2004, Cavallotto
Klassiske 04 årgang, sursøt, frisk, leirejord, steinete og mineralsk. Presis, stram og disiplinert, rettlinjet og kan fortsatt lagres. Denne finnes på VP fremdeles i 2010 årgangen som bør være et godt kjøp. (jeg kjøpte noen flasker etter denne smakingen) 93 poeng.
Barolo Monprivato 1996, G. Mascarello
Mørk farge med en fremdeles purpur kanting. Maskulin og typisk for årgangen. Rustikk med solide, tøffe og klassiske røffe tanniner. Men har åpnet seg endel med en pen nese som noen mente var brettomyces. Således kanskje litt atypisk for årgangen. Igjen en stor Monprivato. Som jeg synes i flere årganger gir mer enn en Monfortino. 95 poeng
Barolo 1967, Saverio Fontana
Lys farge , julebrus,roser og burgunderaktig. Elegant, pen gammeldags sødme, taper mye energi i glasset og bør drikkes. Men den var helt fin det første kvarteret. 91 poeng
Fontana består fremdeles. Fra hjemmesiden:
Cascina Fontana
Family passion
Cascina Fontana is located in the heart of the Barolo wine zone in the small hamlet of Perno, near Monforte d’Alba and about 15 km from Alba. Here the Fontana family continue cultivating grapes and making wine as they have done for the past six generations.
Today winemaker Mario Fontana continues this tradition, overseeing the entire cycle of production, from the tending of the vineyards to the making of the wines, taking the greatest and most meticulous care at every stage of the process.
Mario and Luisa Fontana are the proprietors of 5 hectares (about 12.5 acres) of estate vineyards dedicated exclusively to the cultivation of the classic grape varieties of Le Langhe: dolcetto, barbera and nebbiolo. The vineyards are located in the best zones of production in the commune of Castiglione Falletto (vigna Valletti,cru Mariondino, vigna Villero/cru Villero e vigna del Pozzo); La Morra (vigna Gallinotto/cru Giachini); and Sinio (vigna del Castello).
Cascina Fontana is wholly traditional wine estate that respects and follows the culture, traditions and history of Le Langhe.
“My ancestors cultivated these lands before me, and thanks to their efforts, today it is my privilege to be able to produce great wines.”
BAROLO FLIGHT
Barolo Cannubi 2001, Chiara Boschi - E. Pira
Purpur ,endel eik, tørrer ut i finish. Moderne og ikke helt vellykket i formatet. 89 poeng
Barolo Cannubi San Lorenzo Ravera 2001, G. Rinaldi
Rosin på nesa, oksidasjon, dårlig flaske. Ikke vurdert.
Barolo Dal Vigneto Cannubbio 1990, F. Rinaldi
Cola farge, bålrøyk i en utviklet stil. Sursøt og har mistet endel frukt. Jernoksid og tørker endel ut. Således ganske typisk for årgangen. Thomas bl.a. vurderte denne høyere. 90 poeng.
Barolo 1974, F. Rinaldi
Cola farge, litt uklar, sursøt, jeg fikk ikke korken hel ut, måtte igjennom en sil. Tørrer ut i munnen, grei å drikke, men kanskje en ikke helt optimal flaske. 87 poeng.
Fra winespectator.com:
What's in a name? A lot, when it's the name of a vineyard. And when that vineyard is arguably the most historic in Barolo—Cannubi—there's money, history and local pride at stake.
Italy's Council of State has ruled that wines made from four vineyards neighboring Cannubi can be labeled Cannubi. The decision effectively enlarges Cannubi from 37 acres of vines to 84. The ruling has angered 11 producers who own parcels in the 37 acres and have been fighting to maintain the previous boundaries. But it's a victory for one of Barolo's larger and most historic wineries, Marchesi di Barolo.
"We are very surprised and saddened by the decision of the Council of State," said Marta Rinaldi, whose family winery Giuseppe Rinaldi owns a parcel. "It is a clear choice in favor of the commercial needs of the company Marchesi di Barolo."
No one is arguing about the historic value of the name Cannubi. The oldest record of it appearing on a wine label was 1752, before winemakers even began putting Barolo on labels. Located on a southeast-facing ridge just north of the village of Barolo, it captures morning sunshine, and Nebbiolo planted on it ripens even in challenging years. For centuries, Cannubi has been a signifier of quality, which is why wineries often wrote it on their labels even if the fruit came from the other vineyards on the ridge—Muscatel, Valletta, San Lorenzo and Boschis.
In 1995, as the appellation was delineating official vineyard boundaries, the commune of Barolo defined Cannubi as 37 acres on the heart of the ridge. But it also recommended that wines from the four neighbors, which have slightly different exposures and soils, be allowed to include Cannubi—Cannubi-Muscatel, etc. But in 2009, Ernesto Abbona, president of Marchesi di Barolo, challenged this rule, arguing that his winery and others had historically used grapes from the other vineyards in their Cannubi. Marchesi di Barolo had owned a large portion of Cannubi, but in 2008, a split among the owners led the group that held the vineyard to lease it to another winery. When the official vineyard boundaries were finally released in 2010, Cannubi had grown to 84 acres.
Eleven producers appealed, and a regional tribunal agreed with them, overturning the act. But on Oct. 3, Abbona won his appeal to the state council in Rome. "This ruling does justice to the work led by my family, which for decades has grown grapes and made Barolo produced from estate vineyards in Cannubi and was the architect of the promotion of this extraordinary hill," Abbona told Italian media.
It's unclear what further action other wineries can take. "All these producers who are upset, I understand," said Giacomo Conterno, whose winery Poderi Aldo Conterno produces its own single-vineyard wines in nearby Bussia. "They have had generations on this land. To change and suddenly say all these differences no longer exist, there is one Cannubi, maybe it's easier for marketing. But more than a century ago, they put these different names because people already understood the soil was similar but with plenty of little differences."
"I think the customers lost," said Luca Currado, of the Vietti winery and a member of the leadership committee of the regional consorzio, "because there are now Cannubi wines and secondary Cannubi wines, and now the customers will not be able to judge from the labels."
