lørdag 27. desember 2014

Helga Natt


Champagnetur fredag 24.10.14:

Middag på Hostellerie La Briquterie utenfor Epernay.  Anbefales !    www.labriqueterie.fr/ 

Undertegnede blir alltid litt skeptisk når sommerlieren tar over showet. Etter endel innsigelser ga jeg meg og heldigvis for det ! Helga, sommelieren, åpnet den ene fabelaktige flasken etter den andre...







Roualet-Crochet Blanc de Blancs 1974; "Pushet på oss av sommelier Helga" til min store skuffelse ! Men for en champagne ! Drukket i salongen før middagen. Fantastisk utviklet rik og fet nese med eik, hvite blomster og alt virker Grand Cru-aktig. Frisk frukt, optimal å drikke nå. 91 poeng.









Så presenterte Helga to helt ukjente champagneprodusenter som var en av mange høydepunkter på turen. Cuvèe des Archives Brut Millesimè 2002, Champagne Collard-Picard; delikat, uendelig lang og god munnfølelse, perfekt balanse, litt syltet frukt, presis og konsentrert. Litt uenighet om kvalitet, men jeg syntes dette var fabelaktig ! Men til 300 euro da.  95 poeng.


Fra KLwines:
Greatness like this is very hard to describe. We received so few bottles of this (only 12!) that a lack of good prose probably will not make much of a difference. Let me give you the facts: This Champagne is a blend of 80% Chardonnay (from the final harvest of a mid slope parcel in the Grand Cru of Mesnil that was planted in 1923) and 20% Pinot Noir (from a plot in Reuil that was planted in 1953) and entirely barrel fermented. It is huge Champagne, and Olivier Collard recommends decanting it and serving it in Bordeaux glasses, either with a truffled main course or even as a digestive! I found it to be decadent, chocolaty Champagne with a Devon cream nose and a powerful finish. Save it as long as you care to- it should improve for decades. 




Clos des Bergeronneau Brut Premier Cru 2006; 100% Pinot Meunier. Kraftig og vinøs med mye smak. Markjordbær, mineralsk, "grapey" og floral. Massiv munnfølelse med brioche. En annerledes og spennende champagne. Igjen, denne produsenten må man få tak i flere flasker fra. 93 poeng




Cuvèe Perle D`Ayala Brut Millèsimè 2002; Kim mente han skulle klare å velge ut en annen champis på kartet som matchet Helga sine mht. kvalitet, men det var ikke så lett ! Denne var kraftig og viste ivrig mousse. Mye chardonnay ? Frisk og mintaktig. Salt og god konsentrasjon. Litt vegetal med spisskumin & karve. 91 poeng.

bestchampagnes.fr:
The Prestige Cuvée Champagne Perle d'Ayala is produced in small quantities, only in outstanding vintages. It is aged in the cellars for 8 years with a natural cork closure, which enables the wine to have an exchange with the air and to develop beautiful and complex aromas. The cuvée is made with the base wine of the vintage Blanc de Blancs to which the cellar master adds 20 % of Grand Cru Pinot Noir. This wine has been aged for over 5 years in the cellars. 

THE BLEND 
80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir, 100% from Grand Crus: Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly, Cramant and Verzy. No Dosage. 

TASTING NOTES Clear and bright, golden yellow with delicate amber tones.  
Fresh, with aromas of white flesh fruit, lemon and chalk. Ample and generous, with subtle notes of vanilla and of ripe fruit. The finish is long and fine, and boasts that pure and pristine quality given by the lack of dosage. 





Orpale Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 2002; mere moden frukt, men fremdeles bra konsentrasjon. Litt daff i glasset etterhvert. 89 poeng





Roualet-Crochet Brut Millèsimè 1964; Ikke Blanc de Blancs som 1974. Igjen en fantastisk nese. Grand Cru hvit burgund "all over the place" ! Noe hul i midtparti , mister noe frukttrøkk i glasset. God mineralitet, grapey og en genuin frisk og solid champagne. 80% chardonnay. Gogget for 3 år siden ? Are var veldig entusiastisk og ga den 96 poeng. Vi andre var vel på 95.

Rune R. des 14: Roualet – Crochet 1964

Blind Champagne, for så vidt blind selv om vi får vite hva det er. Helt ukjent, ikke nevnt i TS sin bok en 

gang. Antagelig nylig degorgert. Aromabildet er skarpere og mer presist enn de andre. Det er nyskjærte  
røde epler, innslag av markjordbær av det umodne slaget og brioche. I munnen er det syre a la 96 som 

møter oss - spesielt sammenlignet med de to foregående. Livlig og delikate bobler. Noe som minnet 

om fat(?) og lees. Delikat eplepreg og noe syltet sitrus. Imponerende lengde. Når avslørt – en virkelig 

positiv overraskelse. 94-95p






Domaine de Terrebrune 1991, Bandol. Helga, tror jeg, hadde tenkt å servere champagner gjennom hele måltidet, men de Kåte Rhoner ønsket en rødvin til anda og da det ble det. Ved sitt valg, viste Helga sin komptetanse, valget var spennenede, det kunne gått virkelig ille, det er en snill årgang fra en bløt og aromatisk drue; Mourvedre. Jon var ikke helt imponert over valget, jeg synes det var superb. Vinen ble tatt på et absolutt optimalt drikketidspunkt, den hadde i seg den siste substans av krydder og ryggrad, utviklet, fjøs, eksotisk, Musar-aktig og absolutt ikke A4. 88-91 poeng.





Morey-Saint-Denis 1cru Les Monts Luisants 2002, Domaine des Monts Luisants.  
Kim godkjente den første flasken som var korket og ødelagt (!?) Den andre var tørr, mørk, litt brent frukt, rustikk med en vanskelig munnfølelse. Grønn og undermoden. Viser vel at, er det god tilgjengelighet på kartet av champagne, ikke gå over til rødt hvis du ikke må ? 86 poeng.





Grande Reserve Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, Jean Milan
Litt grov og enkel "prosecco mousse". Jeg har aldri blitt imponert av denne produsenten, men dette var bedre. Syrlig, korrekt Bl.d.Bl. , enkel og rettlinjet frukt. Faller endel igjennom her. 89 poeng.






Grand Couronnement Brut Blanc de Blancs 2002,  J. de Telmont

Ny produsent for Vinklubben. Rik epleskrott, karakterfull, autolyse, gjær og klassisk. Saltaktig, intens og med lang ettersmak. Men kanskje litt mye og ubalansert. 92 poeng. 

onsdag 17. desember 2014

Picnic ved motorveien


Champagnetur 24.10.14

Mellom produsentbesøk ble det tid til hyggelig picnic 100m fra motorveien, men i umiddelbar nærhet av vinmarker og med utsikt over Epernay.











Champagne de Venoge Louis XV Brut 1996; fancy flaske, gult innhold, noe oksidert og slapp. 82 poeng.  Pol Roger Xtra Cuvèe Reserve MAGNUM; frisk og enkel, består av årgangene 07, 08, 09 og 10. Holder seg xtra godt i magnum. 88 poeng. Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires 1995; rik, god og solid frukt. Nøtter, fet i munnen, brioche. Et utrolig godt munngrep, karakterfull som alltid med et delikat kalkaktig preg. 94 poeng. Billecart Salmon Blanc de Blancs Brut 1999; delikat, rik med god modning, frisk, kalkaktig og Are var spesielt glad i denne. 94 poeng


mandag 17. november 2014

Champagnesmaking på Romsås

14.11.14:

Takk til alle champagneentusiastene som hadde med bidrag og til Morten Christiansen som stod for arrangementet. Takk også til hobbykokken Lars for strålende mat.







Sjelden kost med en Salon mini-vertikal;

Salon 1988 er tidligere Champagne of the Year i Vinklubben, men denne flasken var nok ikke helt optimal: utviklet med tydelige brune nedfallsepler,  nøtter og vel aromatisk for perfeksjon. Årgangen er spesielt vellykket i Champagne (og for Salon) og dette skal i utgangspunktet være 98-100 poeng. Men det var det ikke. Det brune oksidative preget forsterker seg i glasset og bli mer sherrypreget over tid. Men smaken er overraskende lineær og frisk. Tveten kjøpte denne på Vinmonopolet på 90-tallet. På grensen til ikke å bli vurdert, men jeg gir den 90 poeng. 

Salon 1996 derimot er et helt annet dyr; med en mere transparent farge og grønnskjær i glasset. Citrus, mandarin, stram og fremdeles lite utviklet. En kompleks munnfølelse, kraftig frukt og det er litt vanskelig å vurdere kvalitetspotensialet i en knytt og vanskelig tilgjengelig Blanc de Blancs på dette nivået. "Lemon-curd" i ettersmak som er veeeeldig lang. Dette kan bli 100 poeng. Vi får nøye oss med 97 poeng  foreløpig.

Salon 1997 lever litt i skyggen av de andre mht. årgangsvurderinger, men dette synes jeg var overraskende bra: noe mere blank og gylden i snittet enn 1996, en bredere munnfølelse gir god valuta for pengene allerede nå. Selv om nok dette kan lagres videre, drikker den veldig godt for øyeblikket med pen mousse, god balanse og husets typiske citrus-bitt. Prismessig er jo dette et betydelig bedre kjøp enn de to forrige, men den mangler kompleksiteten og dybden i frukten. 92 poeng.










Champagne Charlie 1979 MAGNUM gylden i fargen nesten Sauternesaktig, moden og utviklet i munnen. Den manglet litt fizziness og livlighet. Linoelum, lanolin og endel reduktiv på nesen dro ned. Veldig vinøs og "gammeldags" munnfølelse med bittert appelsinskall og ikke den klassiske autolysemunnen.  Innslag av mynte, tydelig Pinot, noe eik og en rik og fet avslutning. Lang ettersmak. Den vinøse stilen overskygger endel, samtidig med den odde aromaen som gjør champagnen litt rar. Kjøpt på Vinmonopolet, den ble bare solgt i magnum ? 94 poeng.

Champagne Charlie 1981 var en mere klassisk champagne. Deilig lett munnfølelse. Utviklet og bør nok drikkes. Også denne har en bitter hale. Et smalere fruktbilde, klassisk eple med fin mousse. Slank og presis. Men mangler kraft. Overraskende bra fra et medium champagneår. 93 poeng.

Champagne Charlie 1985 var mindre utviklet, nesten primær mot de andre i rekka. Strågul farge, god og frisk mousse. Veldig ren i snittet, en perfekt champagne som igjen viser seg godt fram. God flaske fra Kims kjeller. Her må det være mye Chardonnay ? Citrus, gjær og autolyse. Brødbakst og brioche. En super elegant champagne med stram mineralitet og megalang ettersmak. My kind of champagne ! 96 poeng

Vinklubben hadde Champagne Charlie 1985 i mai 2014:

Utviklet stil og en meget god munnfølelse. Semimoden, holder litt igjen og den kan fremdeles lagres. Kompleks og rik, bitter avslutning med sjø og elementer av tang. Endel dosage er det nok, kraftig og voluminøs i stilen og et kledelig snev av oksidative epler. Strukturert og den har noen tanniner bakerst som gjør den til en fabelaktig matchampagne. En stor champagne med en sinnsyk lengde. Pt. mangler den kanskje noen forføriske elememter. Men de vil komme. En meget god flaske og denne virker bedre enn den vi hadde for ett år siden. Jeg trodde dette var en Cristal. Flere hadde denne som den beste champagnen. 96 poeng. Medtatt av Kim.









Krug Collection 1982 0 bobler ved skjenking. En vinøs og utviklet nese. Høy konsentrasjon av moden frukt med lang og rik ettersmak i munnen. Degorgert i 02 eller 03 ? Mangler noe løft og eleganse, men den har mye smak og har en eksepsjonell sjarmfaktor. Collection-serien behøver nødvendigvis ikke ligge legger på bunnfall før gogging/release. Og det merkes litt her. Burde vært drukket for noen år siden, eller bare en litt dårlig flaske ? Men en enorm konsentrasjon drar opp. 
93 poeng.

Krug 1988 helt motsatt champis vs. 82. Mye bobler, brioche, rik, toffeèkaramell og igjen en veldig bra konsentrasjon. Men mye renere og mer citrus enn 82. Mye energi og intensitet, bra balanse, smidig og en fantastisk champagne. Solid og karakterfull, kan fortsatt lagres. Husker jeg serverte denne til svigermor nyttårsaften 2000 og hun syntes den var sur ! Og det var den vel også for 14 år siden ! 97 poeng (and still going !)

Krug 1996 ganske lik farge som 1988 og det sier vel mest om sistnevnte. Men helt annerledes i munnen. Xtrem thight, citrus og den formelig spruter energi i en lineær retning. Bør fortsatt lagres og dette kommer til å bli knallbra. Vanskelig å vurdere om denne er bedre enn 88. Så derfor 97 poeng her også.





Rosè champagne blir aldri min favoritt. Hvis man mener champagne er et kvalitetsprodukt har jeg aldri skjønt hvorfor man skal helle i endel rødvin i sluttproduktet. Men denne flighten var ikke så gal:

Deutz Rosè 1990 viste typisk rustikk  og en ubalansert stil. Rød og frisk farge, men mangler harmoni, eleganse og "renhet".   Dette er et godt eksempel på hvorfor dette ikke er topp i min munn. 87 poeng.





Charles Heidsieck Brut Rosè 1996 var en særdeles elegant rosè champagne. Lys og lett med bittert appelsinskall, delikat, noe vandig og lett å kritisere. Syrlig og 96 stilen skinner godt igjennom. Mer champagne enn rosè champagne. Denne rosè champagnen er foreløpig bare laget i tre årganger 1985, 1996 og 1999. 91 poeng.

Fra winereviewonline.com
One year after he founded his Champagne house in 1851, 29-year-old Charles-Camille Heidsieck took the unusual step, at that time, of journeying to the United States to sell his Champagne.  In fact, he was the first Champagne producer to visit the U.S.A.  Champagne Charlie, as he became known, a gracious gentleman and a born salesman, personally sold 300,000 bottles of his Champagne in the U.S. in one year!  He made three more visits to the U.S. before the Civil War broke out in 1861, andbecame a celebrity in this country, with his picture in many of the newspapers.  In the following years, Champagne Charlie and his descendants also did well in Europe and the Far East, establishing new markets for their Champagne.

With a beginning like that, you would think that Charles Heidsieck would be a big-selling, well-known Champagne in the U.S. and throughout the world.  But it is not.  Instead, Moët & Chandon (including Dom Pérignon), Veuve Clicquot, G.H. Mumm, Nicolas Feuillatte, and Charles Heidsieck’s sister-house, Piper-Heidsieck, are the dominant sales leaders, both here and throughout the world--along with Lanson, Pommery, and Laurent-Perrier in Europe.

Champagne Charles Heidsieck’s journey has been a difficult one since its brilliant start with its founder.  In the 20th century, the house had several changes of ownership.  The first turning point upwards in its fortunes took place in the late 1970s, when Joseph Henriot purchased Charles Heidsieck; both houses are inter-twined through marriage (Champagne Charlie’s wife was an Henriot).  Joseph Henriot hired Daniel Thibault, Champagne’s most highly-regarded winemaker, as cellarmaster.  But when Joseph Henriot took over as top man of Veuve Clicquot, Charles Heidsieck was again rudderless, going through three more sales.  In 1985, Rémy Martin Cognac (a.k.a. Rémy-Cointreau) purchased both Champagnes Charles Heidsieck and Piper-Heidsieck (it had purchased Champagne Krug previously).  Rémy-Cointreau’s first move was to re-hire the brilliant  Daniel Thibault in 1986 to be Chef de Caves for Charles Heidsieck.  Four years later, Thibault also became winemaker of  Piper-Heidsieck.

The improvements in both Charles Heidsieck and Piper-Heidsieck were remarkable under Thibault’s guidance.  Charles Heidsieck became the premium Champagne of the two, and Piper-Heidsieck (always a big seller but of average quality before Thibault) improved immeasurably.  

Thibault insisted upon using an extraordinary amount of older reserve wines, 40 percent, in Charles Heidsieck’s flagship Champagne, its Brut Réserve.  Despite this expensive move, Charles Heidsieck’s Brut Réserve remained as reasonably priced as other non-vintage Champagnes.  (Only Krug’s Grande Cuvée, more than three times the price of Heidsieck’s Brut Réserve, uses more reserve wines, up to 50 percent).  

I noticed an amazing improvement in Charles Heidsieck’s Champagnes, particularly the Brut Réserve, around 1990, and began singing its praises in my articles, as did many other writers.  Charles Heidsieck became an insiders’ Champagne, appreciated by the cognoscenti, but still not recognized by consumers.  In the U.S. particularly, Champagne sales have been so dominated by the few big Champagne houses that few other Champagnes have caught on.

The use of 40 percent reserve wines has made a huge difference in Champagne Charles Heidsieck’s Brut Réserve.  You first notice the color, a deeper gold that most other NV Champagnes.  Next, the aroma, a much toastier, yeastier bouquet than you would expect from an average-priced non-vintage Champagne.  Also, the weight of the Champagne on your palate is much more full-bodied than you would expect.  And finally the long, complex finish, which lingers on the palate.  It is no wonder that Charles Heidsieck’s Brut Réserve has become the favorite NV of many of us who love Champagne.  Champagne Charles Heidsieck uses the same traditional blend of varieties in its Brut Réserve:  One-third Pinot Noir, one-third Pinot Meunier, and one-third Chardonnay.

Tragedy struck Champagne Charles Heidsieck in February, 2002, when Daniel Thibault , six times awarded the designation Winemaker of the Year in Champagne, passed away at the age of 55.  Fortunately, Thibault was followed as Chef de Caves by his long-time assistant, Régis Camus, who has ably carried on, keeping the high quality of both Charles  Heidsieck and Piper-Heidsieck.

Meanwhile, Rémy-Cointreau--who had previously sold Champagne Krug to LVMH in January, 1999, because of declining sales of its cognac in the Far East--decided to sell both Champagne Charles Heidsieck and Piper-Heidsieck in May, 2011, because they were not profitable enough for the spirits company.  Fortunately for the Heidsieck houses, Rémy-Cointreau turned down a bid from the huge LVMH conglomerate and sold the Heidsieck Champagnes to the family-owned luxury goods company, EPI.

EPI took over July 8th, 2011, closed the Paris office of the Champagne houses and moved all the employees to Reims, where both wineries are located.  EPI then hired Cécile Bonneford as CEO of Champagnes Charles Heidsieck and Piper-Heidsieck.  Cécile was Managing Director of Champagne Veuve Clicquot from 2001 to 2009, and previously was marketing director for several large food companies.  I recently met with Mme. Bonneford, and was impressed with her frankness and honesty, refreshing if unusual qualities for a CEO.  She is very happy to be working for EPI, who she said is genuinely interested in keeping the quality of both Champagnes at a high level and is looking at the long-term picture rather than seeking immediate profits for the Champagnes.

Régis Camus has been promoted to Director of Winemaking for EPI while also retaining the title of Chef de Caves for Piper-Heidsieck.  His long-time assistant Chef de Caves, Thierry Roset (who has been with Champagne Heidsieck since 1988), is now Chef de Caves for Charles Heidsieck Champagnes.  

Roset has made significant changes for Charles Heidsieck’s Brut Réserve.  He has reduced the formula for the number of wines going into the Brut Réserve from 120 to 60, all of which he has personally selected.  According to Roset, his aim is to make a Brut Réserve with greater complexity, depth, and richness.  

I tasted the new Charles Heidsieck NV Brut Réserve, based mainly on the 2008 vintage, still with 40 percent reserve wines aged from five to 15 years (all of the company’s 10 to 15 year-old reserves are held exclusively for Charles Heidsieck’s Brut Réserve).  The new Brut Réserve was aged 36 months on its lees and disgorged in 2011.  It is smashing, the best Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve that I can recall tasting, and I’ve had quite a few over the years.  It is a deeper gold color than previous Brut Réserves, it is very dry, with lively acidity, and according to Roset, has “more tension and more minerality.”  By tension, I believe that Roset  is talking about its liveliness.  By the way, my experience has been that Charles Heidsieck’s Brut Réserves age especially well, gaining more depth with maturity.

Charles Heidsieck’s new Brut Réserve also has a striking new look; the
bottle is shaped like the entrance to its famous 2,000 year-old Gallo-Roman chalky wine cellar (one of the most impressive ones in Reims).  It really looks like a prestige cuvée, with its new black label and white lettering.  Current Brut Réserves are retailing between $35 and $45, averaging in the $40 to $42 range.  Expect to pay a bit more for the new Brut Réserve.  But you know something?  It will still be a bargain, considering the quality of the product.  

Like all Champagne houses, Charles Heidsieck’s non-vintage Champagne, its superb Brut Réserve, makes up between 85 to 90 percent of its production.  But Champagne Charles Heidsieck also makes three other Champagnes.  One is a rather rare Vintage Brut, which, unlike other houses, it releases only in certain years; in the last decade, only the memorable 1990, the 1995, and 2000 were sold in the U.S.A.  Charles Heidsieck did make a tiny quantity of 1996, which it sold only in France.  On a visit to the winery about 10 years ago, I tasted the 1996; it was so exceptional (I rated it “98”) that I ordered a case of it from a local store in Reims and had it shipped back to the U.S.  I still have six bottles left; I am drinking it up slowly, knowing that it will improve with a few more years of aging. 

Charles Heidsieck is about to release its new NV Rosé Réserve in the fall, along with its new Brut Réserve.  Both will come in the same, old-fashioned bottle, but the Rosé has a beautiful pink label.  The new Rosé Réserve is based on the 2007 vintage, with 20 percent reserve wines added.  It is crafted from equal proportions of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, with 6 to 7 percent still Pinot Noir wine added for color.  I tasted the new Rosé Réserve, which is a light hue of pink, dry, bright, fresh, and so thoroughly delicious that’s it’s difficult to drink just one glass.  Charles Heidsieck also makes a Vintage Rosé on occasion; only three have been made recently, the 1985, 1996, and 1999.  (To honor the occasion of this column, we drank our last bottle of Charles Heidsieck’s 1996 Vintage Rosé on the night that I wrote this.  It was very good, ready to drink, and not as exceptional as Charles Heidsieck’s 1996 Vintage Brut white.)

The next Charles Heidsieck I tasted was an old favorite, the1995 Blanc de Millènaires.  I participated in two Critics’ Challenge judgings a few years ago, in which this very Champagne won “Best of Show” two years in a row.  It is an amazing Champagne, a blanc de blancs and the House’s prestige cuvée.  At 17 years old, it is still fresh, but definitely ready to drink.  The next Blanc de Millènaires will be the 2004, to be released in 2014.

The tasting ended with a bit of history, the 1981 Champagne Charlie.  This was the House’s previous prestige cuvée; the last vintage of Champagne Charlie was the 1985.  The 1981 Champagne Charlie was unctuous, with quite mature aromas, but with so much complexity of flavors!  I asked Cécile Bonneford if Charles Heidsieck planned to revive Champagne Charlie in the future.  She smiled at me and replied, “You never know! ”  Like all good Champagne producers, they have to keep some secrets.

I left the tasting with two impressions:  That the quality of Charles Heidsieck Champagnes is higher than ever; and that it is bewildering why much of the wine-drinking world has yet to know about this great Champagne.





Bollinger Grande Annèe Rosè Brut 2004 var nesten enda mer blek enn Charles Heidsieck`en. Noe fetere cuvèe stil, en mere seriøs vin, igjen denne bitre tonen i avslutningen som passer godt til en matbit, men dårlig alene. Jens prøvde å snakke opp denne uten å lykkes :) 92 poeng.









Cristal er en utskjelt champagne som, når den kommer på bordet i gode flasker er uslåelig. Men pga. navn og salgbarhet omsettes den nok litt for ofte (som Dom Perignon) med dårlige lagringsforhold.

Cristal 1982 var gylden, men ikke honning. En bra lagret flaske med bittert appelsinskall, kompleks og frisk i uttrykket. Intrikat, balanserer mot moden. Bør drikkes ? 96 poeng.

Cristal 1995 mer lys og strågul. Litt hul frukt som mange champagner fra 95 har. Men en frisk, deilig og spretten munnfølelse. Lett bitter men det er den frempå og åpne frukten som gjør champagnen. 92 poeng.

Cristal 1996 Korket. Livet er hardt og urettferdig.








Selosse Initiale Brut (degorgert oktober 2011) gjær, friskt og personlig, bra trykk med god konsentrasjon. Blanc de Blancs  fra tre yngre årganger fra lavereliggende vinmarker i Avize, Oger og Cramant.  88 poeng.

Selosse V.O. (degorgert februar 2012) mye mousse, enkel med knytt citrus, frisk, trang og vanskelig. Enkel frukt i munnen, men vil nok bli bedre med lagring. Blanc de Blancs  fra tre eldre årganger fra høyereliggende vinmarker i Avize, Oger og Cramant. 85 poeng.

Selosse Substance (degorgert september 2013) frisk, ren og slank i munnen. Snev av parafin, gjær og lang ettersmak. Karakterfull, men igjen en Selossechampis som er vanskelig å gi en høy poengsum. Blanc de Blancs  fra ca. 20 årganger (solera) fra vinmarker i Avize. 89 poeng.


Anselme believed not only in low yields and organic viticulture, he also believed in 
terroir. He was, in short, a heretic in Champagne.The greatness of Jacques Selosse wines come from a simple idea: to make profound Champagne, you must start with great fruit. In the 1970s, when Anselme Selosse came of age, such an idea was revolutionary. This was, after all, a time when the fruit that went into most Champagnes was of historically low quality, the result of high yields and excessive use of chemicals.
Not to be deterred, in 1980, when he took over his father's domaine, he slashed yields and rid his land of chemicals. And he began to focus, in a way unprecedented in Champagne, on his vineyards, all grand cru holdings in Avize, Cramant, and Oger.
He emerged as one of the world's most profound thinkers about the relationship between healthy soils and the wines that spring from them. And thanks to his genius, his fruit is not only Champagne's most physiologically ripe, but also its most expressive.
In the winery, he also defies convention, using only indigenous yeasts for fermentations and minimizing the use of SO2. Fermentation and aging is in wood barrels (less than 20% new), and wines are left on their fine lees for extended periods. And because, as Anselme says, "great Champagne needs no make-up, "dosage is kept to an absolute minimum."

Profound Expressions of Terroir

Anselme's purest expression of terroir is of course the famed Substance, a solera created in 1986. By marrying some twenty vintages, he removes vintage variation, allowing the Avize terroir to speak on its own.
His vintage Millésime does the opposite. Because it draws on the same parcels of vines each year, it is able to express, perhaps more than any other wine in Champagne, the character of the year.
As a pair, Brut Initial and Version Originale show the influence of age and terroir. Each is a blend of three vintages of Chardonnay from the same three villages: Avize, Oger and Cramant. Yet, while Initial is a blend of harvests from the mid-2000s from lower slope vines, Originale is made from older vintages and from hillside vines.
Anselme's Rosé is pure, intensely mineral Chardonnay from a pair of vintages, with a small amount of still Ambonnay Pinot Noir added.

The Relentles Pursuit of Terroir

In the fall of 2010, Anselme made big news when he announced that he'd be releasing a collection of six lieu-dit (single-vineyard) wines, each promising to be the definitive expression of a noble Champagne village.
His first step was to change the name of Contraste (his solera of Aÿ Pinot Noir) to "La Côte Faron," acknowledging its single-vineyard origins. Anselme also released "Les Carelles," a solera of 100% Chardonnay from the village of Le Mesnil.
Subsequently, Anselme will complete this collection with his 100% Pinot Noir cuvées "Sous le Mont" and "Le Bout du Clos"-from Mareuil and from Ambonnay, respectively. And for his 100% Chardonnay cuvées, Anselme will release "Les Chantereines" and "Chemin de Châlons" from Avize and from Cramant, respectively.

It is a measure of what Anselme has accomplished that in 1994, Gault-Millau named him France's best winemaker in every category, an unprecedented honor. Accolades like this have contributed to his reputation as perhaps the most original winemaker in France today, admired not only by his peers but by a legion of collectors worldwide who covet each and every bottle of Jacques Selosse Champagne they can find.

Vi avsluttet med en Kistler Pinot Noir 2002; mørk frukt, frisk syre, litt varm stil med eldet og noe sliten og gammeldags frukt. Bør drikkes. 88 poeng. 

torsdag 13. november 2014

Camille Savès

Besøk 24.10.14:






Vi ble tatt imot av en veldig hyggelig herremann; Hervè Savès som er 4. generasjon vinmaker. Huset holder til i Bouzy og har en liten produksjon på ca. 85 000 flasker (eier 11 ha vinmark) Husstilen er ren, stram og klassisk og ingen av hans champagner går igjennom malolaktisk gjæring.




Champagne  Camille Savès XtraBrut Grand Cru NV
Dette er den samme som Carte d`Or i Norge. 7g/l dosage i Frankrike, men han lager en tørrere versjon for det norske markedet 2g/l, etter importørens Mostues ønske. Denne var degorgert i 2011 med 75% Pinot Noir og 25% Chardonnay. Består av 2008 & 2009 årgangen. En klassisk Savès vin, syrlig og frisk, autolyse og et relativt enkelt fruktbilde. Kan og bør lagres ytterligere. Kr. 325,- i Norge som må regnes som et godt kjøp. 85 poeng.




Champagne  Camille Savès Cuvèe Prestige Brut 
8g/l dosage. 2009 & 2010 årgang. 40% lagret på eik. Ivrig mousse, god mineralitet, tørrer litt ut i munnen, fenoler, rikere og mere stuffing og bredere munnfølelse. 89 poeng.





Champagne  Camille Savès Millèsime 2008 Brut Bouzy 
80% pinot noir & 20% chardonnay. Mye mousse, konsentrert munnfølelse. Mye syre som vil slipes ned noe etterhvert. Bør lagres. Stram og klassisk. Autolyse. Lang ettersmak. Tydelig ingen malo. Godt fruktmateriale og viser årgangens kvaliteter. Løp og kjøp. 92 poeng.



Champagne  Camille Savès Cuvèe Anais Jolicæur Brut 2008 
90 % pinot noir & 10% chardonnay. 7g/l dosage.  Endel eik, kremet, autolyse, gjær og toast, klassisk med god og dyp frukt. Ikke typisk Savès stil. 40 år gamle vinstokker. 90 poeng



Camille Savès Mont des Tours Blanc de Blancs 2011  
4g/l dosage.  Elevage in barrel. Single vineyard. Degorgert september 2014. Vanligvis lar de flaskene ligge 6 mnd. etter gogging før legger flaskene ut for salg. Litt gjær, virker nesten drikkeklar. Enkel.   87 poeng.



Camille Savès Blanc de Noirs  Les Lagres 2011  
Røde bær. Frisk med noen tanniner i ettersmak. 86 poeng.




Camille Savès Cuvèe Rosè   
Mix av årgangene 2009 og 2010. 12% tilsatt rødvin. 28% Pinot Noir & 60% Chardonnay. Mye mousse, frisk og tydelig elegant chardonnay. Lages  kun ca. 12 000 flasker i året. Parker har gitt denne 96 poeng. $ 150 i US. 91 poeng

Fra leserbet.com:

Eugène Savès grew up in the small village of Roquefort sur Garonne at the foot the Pyrenees where his parents were farmers. He was sent to a prestigious school in Versailles, and graduated as an agricultural engineer. After school, his work took him to Champagne, where he fell in love with, and married, Anais Jolicoeur, the daughter of wine growers in Bouzy. The Jolicoeur family (the name translates as Prettyheart) can be traced back in Bouzy to the 16th century. 

Eugène became a wine grower but soon saw the potential in making and selling his own wine. He founded Champagne Eugène Savès in 1894. The house passed to his son, then to his grandson Camille who changed the name to Champagne Camille Savès, and finally to his great grandson Hervé.

The Savès family owns 10 hectares of vineyards scattered around the grands crus Bouzy and Ambonnay as well as the premier cru Tauxières in the Montagne de Reims, and the grand cru Tours sur Marne, in the Vallée de la Marne. The bulk of the holdings, 7 hectares, are made up of some of the best mid-slope vineyards of the village of Bouzy. As a matter of fact, with the exception of the Carte Blanche, all the wines produced by Hervé are pure grand cru Bouzy fruit, making Savès one of the most iconic estates in one of Champagne’s best terroirs for pinot noir.

“Definitely one of the highlights of Bouzy. The Savès – father and son – are among Champagne’s most passionate winemakers.” – Richard Juhlin, 4000 Champagnes, 2004.

Hervé has not used an herbicide for 7 years or a pesticide for a decade. He would be organic if he weren’t afraid of copper, which is toxic and non-biodegradable. Hervé is not alone. Currently there is a fringe of extremely dedicated and serious wineries who remain just shy of organic because they believe that copper is a bigger evil than a moderate use of chemicals for the treatment of mildew and oidium. Of course, this position doesn’t make for a good sound bite. But in difficult vintages like 2012, organic and biodynamic producers needed to treat 50% more frequently than wineries like Savès, and the result is more copper build-up, added compaction of the soil, and a larger carbon footprint. 

Hervé practices stringent yield control, debudding and dropping fruit when necessary. His grapes are meticulously sorted out at harvest. Actually, meticulous is perhaps what sums Hervé up the best. Both he and is winery are squeaky clean. 

At press time, the tailles, which are the last 500 liters, are separated and vinified separately. They may or may not be added later, depending on their quality. In addition, in humid years, the first 100 liters are discarded altogether. The Bouzy rouge and the cuvée Anaïs are the only two wines to be vinified in oak, all others are vinified in enamel tanks, which Hervé prefers because they are totally inert. Malolactic fermentations are systematically blocked. “Bouzy has a lot of power and richness”, says Hervé, “when you put the wines trough malo, they get heavy.”

“To me, the wines of Camille Savès are all about minerality and fresh, biscuit-laced red fruit. The lack of malolactic fermentation gives the wines an extra dimension of citrus and minerality that deftly cuts through the fruit - this gives the wines amazing finesse while still maintaining an underlying fruity power. This isn’t an easy combination to pull off…”– Brad Baker, Champagne Warrior, Issue 8, October 2010. 

Each wine is left on the lees for 36 to 60 months prior to disgorgement. The dosages at Savès vary from 4 to 9 g/l. They are done with traditional liqueur (yay!), meaning wine plus cane sugar, rather than MCR, or,RCGM in English, for Rectified Concentrated Grape Must, which the vast majority of champagne houses have switched to. After disgorgement Hervé insists that his wines rest another six months before they are released. 

A special mention must be made of Camille Savès Brut Rosé which has become the favorite small producer rosé for American savvy wine aficionados. 

“It is quite clear that Camille Savès is one of the finest sources for Brut Rosé out there today.” – John Gilman, View From the Cellar, July-August 2012

It is a rosé d’assemblage, a blend of roughly 60% chardonnay, 30% pinot noir, and 10% Bouzy rouge. This is all grand cru fruit from a brilliant terroir, there are no souches in the blend. But truth be told, it may be the minority, the Bouzy rouge that makes this rosé shine. It is a selection of grapes from Hervé’s oldest vines in his best mid-slope vineyards. It is so good that Gratien exclusively sources their still red for their Cuvée Paradis Rosé from Savès; Billecart-Salmon has been a long standing customer as well.