torsdag 13. november 2014

Camille Savès

Besøk 24.10.14:

Vi ble tatt imot av en veldig hyggelig herremann; Hervè Savès som er 4. generasjon vinmaker. Huset holder til i Bouzy og har en liten produksjon på ca. 85 000 flasker (eier 11 ha vinmark) Husstilen er ren, stram og klassisk og ingen av hans champagner går igjennom malolaktisk gjæring.

Champagne  Camille Savès XtraBrut Grand Cru NV
Dette er den samme som Carte d`Or i Norge. 7g/l dosage i Frankrike, men han lager en tørrere versjon for det norske markedet 2g/l, etter importørens Mostues ønske. Denne var degorgert i 2011 med 75% Pinot Noir og 25% Chardonnay. Består av 2008 & 2009 årgangen. En klassisk Savès vin, syrlig og frisk, autolyse og et relativt enkelt fruktbilde. Kan og bør lagres ytterligere. Kr. 325,- i Norge som må regnes som et godt kjøp. 85 poeng.

Champagne  Camille Savès Cuvèe Prestige Brut 
8g/l dosage. 2009 & 2010 årgang. 40% lagret på eik. Ivrig mousse, god mineralitet, tørrer litt ut i munnen, fenoler, rikere og mere stuffing og bredere munnfølelse. 89 poeng.

Champagne  Camille Savès Millèsime 2008 Brut Bouzy 
80% pinot noir & 20% chardonnay. Mye mousse, konsentrert munnfølelse. Mye syre som vil slipes ned noe etterhvert. Bør lagres. Stram og klassisk. Autolyse. Lang ettersmak. Tydelig ingen malo. Godt fruktmateriale og viser årgangens kvaliteter. Løp og kjøp. 92 poeng.

Champagne  Camille Savès Cuvèe Anais Jolicæur Brut 2008 
90 % pinot noir & 10% chardonnay. 7g/l dosage.  Endel eik, kremet, autolyse, gjær og toast, klassisk med god og dyp frukt. Ikke typisk Savès stil. 40 år gamle vinstokker. 90 poeng

Camille Savès Mont des Tours Blanc de Blancs 2011  
4g/l dosage.  Elevage in barrel. Single vineyard. Degorgert september 2014. Vanligvis lar de flaskene ligge 6 mnd. etter gogging før legger flaskene ut for salg. Litt gjær, virker nesten drikkeklar. Enkel.   87 poeng.

Camille Savès Blanc de Noirs  Les Lagres 2011  
Røde bær. Frisk med noen tanniner i ettersmak. 86 poeng.

Camille Savès Cuvèe Rosè   
Mix av årgangene 2009 og 2010. 12% tilsatt rødvin. 28% Pinot Noir & 60% Chardonnay. Mye mousse, frisk og tydelig elegant chardonnay. Lages  kun ca. 12 000 flasker i året. Parker har gitt denne 96 poeng. $ 150 i US. 91 poeng


Eugène Savès grew up in the small village of Roquefort sur Garonne at the foot the Pyrenees where his parents were farmers. He was sent to a prestigious school in Versailles, and graduated as an agricultural engineer. After school, his work took him to Champagne, where he fell in love with, and married, Anais Jolicoeur, the daughter of wine growers in Bouzy. The Jolicoeur family (the name translates as Prettyheart) can be traced back in Bouzy to the 16th century. 

Eugène became a wine grower but soon saw the potential in making and selling his own wine. He founded Champagne Eugène Savès in 1894. The house passed to his son, then to his grandson Camille who changed the name to Champagne Camille Savès, and finally to his great grandson Hervé.

The Savès family owns 10 hectares of vineyards scattered around the grands crus Bouzy and Ambonnay as well as the premier cru Tauxières in the Montagne de Reims, and the grand cru Tours sur Marne, in the Vallée de la Marne. The bulk of the holdings, 7 hectares, are made up of some of the best mid-slope vineyards of the village of Bouzy. As a matter of fact, with the exception of the Carte Blanche, all the wines produced by Hervé are pure grand cru Bouzy fruit, making Savès one of the most iconic estates in one of Champagne’s best terroirs for pinot noir.

“Definitely one of the highlights of Bouzy. The Savès – father and son – are among Champagne’s most passionate winemakers.” – Richard Juhlin, 4000 Champagnes, 2004.

Hervé has not used an herbicide for 7 years or a pesticide for a decade. He would be organic if he weren’t afraid of copper, which is toxic and non-biodegradable. Hervé is not alone. Currently there is a fringe of extremely dedicated and serious wineries who remain just shy of organic because they believe that copper is a bigger evil than a moderate use of chemicals for the treatment of mildew and oidium. Of course, this position doesn’t make for a good sound bite. But in difficult vintages like 2012, organic and biodynamic producers needed to treat 50% more frequently than wineries like Savès, and the result is more copper build-up, added compaction of the soil, and a larger carbon footprint. 

Hervé practices stringent yield control, debudding and dropping fruit when necessary. His grapes are meticulously sorted out at harvest. Actually, meticulous is perhaps what sums Hervé up the best. Both he and is winery are squeaky clean. 

At press time, the tailles, which are the last 500 liters, are separated and vinified separately. They may or may not be added later, depending on their quality. In addition, in humid years, the first 100 liters are discarded altogether. The Bouzy rouge and the cuvée Anaïs are the only two wines to be vinified in oak, all others are vinified in enamel tanks, which Hervé prefers because they are totally inert. Malolactic fermentations are systematically blocked. “Bouzy has a lot of power and richness”, says Hervé, “when you put the wines trough malo, they get heavy.”

“To me, the wines of Camille Savès are all about minerality and fresh, biscuit-laced red fruit. The lack of malolactic fermentation gives the wines an extra dimension of citrus and minerality that deftly cuts through the fruit - this gives the wines amazing finesse while still maintaining an underlying fruity power. This isn’t an easy combination to pull off…”– Brad Baker, Champagne Warrior, Issue 8, October 2010. 

Each wine is left on the lees for 36 to 60 months prior to disgorgement. The dosages at Savès vary from 4 to 9 g/l. They are done with traditional liqueur (yay!), meaning wine plus cane sugar, rather than MCR, or,RCGM in English, for Rectified Concentrated Grape Must, which the vast majority of champagne houses have switched to. After disgorgement Hervé insists that his wines rest another six months before they are released. 

A special mention must be made of Camille Savès Brut Rosé which has become the favorite small producer rosé for American savvy wine aficionados. 

“It is quite clear that Camille Savès is one of the finest sources for Brut Rosé out there today.” – John Gilman, View From the Cellar, July-August 2012

It is a rosé d’assemblage, a blend of roughly 60% chardonnay, 30% pinot noir, and 10% Bouzy rouge. This is all grand cru fruit from a brilliant terroir, there are no souches in the blend. But truth be told, it may be the minority, the Bouzy rouge that makes this rosé shine. It is a selection of grapes from Hervé’s oldest vines in his best mid-slope vineyards. It is so good that Gratien exclusively sources their still red for their Cuvée Paradis Rosé from Savès; Billecart-Salmon has been a long standing customer as well.

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