tirsdag 28. februar 2017

En av de beste hvitviner fra Spania ?

Vinmøte Roar 16.2.17


Champagne Cuvèe 1809 A.D. Coutelas
Stram og uharmonisk. mangler frukt. Spinkel og blir nok bedre med lagring. Uforståelig at denne selger så bra. 83 poeng

Dn.no: 


Champagne A.D. Coutelas Cuvée 1809 Brut  
Pris: 599,90  Varenummer: 3570001. Noe lukket på duft med hint av gjær, kjeks, autolyse og trøffel. Heftig syre på smak med en moden frukt og en stoffrik og tørr lang avslutning.   93 poeng. MB






Champagne Deutz Millèsime 1993 Brut
Oksidativ, mangler spenst. Moden og utviklet stil.  Blanc de Blancs fra produsenten er en bedre champagne ! 88 poeng




Rueda Viejas Verdejo 2013, Menade
Øistein hadde med denne. Røkt smør, bitter stein, thight. Grønnskjær, mineralsk, biodynamisk, fransk eik og litt Coche-aktig. Verdt et besøk ? Se under. 89 poeng



alejandra
Alejandra Sanz – Export & Communication
Having graduated in journalism, Alejandra decided to dedicate herself to the export and communication of the winery, she has always shown attention to detail in the wine and travels. Today she continues to expand her studies in wine whilst travelling regularly, taking part and representing the winery in all manner of events, fairs, and tastings around the world.









La Touron de Curon Le Clos 2006, Stèphane Tissot
Gylden, oksidative epler, lett medisinal, bitre steiner, god mineralitet. Tror ikke dette var en optimal flaske. Fisk til rakfisk kanskje, men dette var ingen spesiell god vin eller flaske. Og en meningsløs pris over kr. 700,-.  82-88 poeng





Meursault Les Grand Charron 2012, Bernard Boisson-Vadot
Gulgrønn, pen nese, frisk og klassisk. 2011 er mere stram og lukket. En fantastisk vellaget vin, usaltet smør. God balanse, snev av eik, syrlig, herlig vin. 92 poeng


onsdag 22. februar 2017

5 røde bordeaux

Vinmøte Roar 19.1.17


Chateau Calon Segur 1990, Saint-Estephe
Tydelig vestside med en moderat fruktig nese. Myk, litt elde og vinen har et undermodent og grønt preg. Litt skuffende mht. årgangens storhet og slottets framgang de siste årene. Muligens den blir bedre med lagring. 90 poeng

Fra the winecellarinsider:

The first part of the modern era for Chateau Calon Segur begins in 1894 when its Left Bank vineyards were purchased by Georges Gasqueton and Charles Hanappier. The Gasqueton family managed the estate until 2012. Most recently, the figurehead of Calon Segur was the charming, albeit eccentric, Madame Denise Gasqueton. Madame Gasqueton ran the estate while marching to the beat of her own drummer until she passed away at the age of 87 in late September, 2011.
The following year, July 2012, Chateau Calon Segur was sold for 170 million Euros, which at the current exchange rate, comes close to 215 million dollars. The buyer is the large French Insurance Company, Suravenir Insurance. Jean-Pierre Moueix , the owner of Petrus and the massive negociant company Duclot, took a minority stake in Chateau Calon Segur.
Calon Segur Stone 300x200 300x200 Chateau Calon Segur St. Estephe Bordeaux Wine Complete Guide
Since the new owners took over Calon Segur, they started a serious program of renovating the property with a focus on the wine making facilities. Following the trend to vinify on a parcel by parcel basis, the estate replaced their older vats with new, stainless steel tanks that vary in size from 89 hectoliters to 75 hectoliters down to 25 hectoliters. The new tanks accompany a completely new vat room as well with everything moving completely by gravity. The new tasting room features a skylight giving it a more spacious feel, along with much better light. The renovations were completed in 2016



Chateau Haut-Bailly 1988, Pessac-Leognan
Grønn, jordlig og vegetal som viser godt årgangen og slottets karakter. Klassisk stil, tørrer ut i finish, men balanserer nå med en syre som kan bli vanskelig. Drikk opp ?  92 poeng





Chateau Gruaud Larose 1989, Saint-Julien
Intense solbær, blodig intens frukt og alkohol. En vin som har holdt seg veldig godt. Og den vil fortsatt holde seg. 92 poeng


Chateau Gruaud Larose 1988, Saint-Julien
Igjen markert 88-syre. Mister litt frukt og har volatile noter. God balanse og frisk syre. Bør nok drikkes snart. 90 poeng




Chateau Leoville Barton 1986, Saint-Julien
Slank og elegant, paprika, melkeaktig og frisk. Viser årgangens storhet. Den beste Leoville Barton laget ? En veldig bra vin. 94 poeng


torsdag 9. februar 2017

Fourrier x 2

Vinmøte Roar 19.1.17


Gevrey Chambertin Clos St-Jacques Vielle Vigne 2009, Fourrier
En rå vin, jeg syntes den hadde litt kork og hadde mye urenheter, men alle var ikke enige. Det er liksom stilen til produsenten ! Vi diskuterte mye denne vinen; var den slik den skulle være ? Det er en dyp og genuin underliggende frukt her. En fragrant og forførende intensitet med deilig rødbærsfrukt. Men vinen er "vill" og lever farlig. 93 poeng.

Gevrey Chambertin Clos St-Jacques Vielle Vigne 2011, Fourrier
Igjen en intens rødbærsfrukt, den har en fellesnevner med noe spontant gjærkulturelt med 2009, men denne har "cocinella" frukt med markerte og aromatisk grønne blader og er klart stilkete. Lever godt opp til årgangens grønne "markør". Men samtidig mye frukt her, en "cornecupia" av mange fasetter. Vanskelig vin å vurdere, men det grønne trekker ned. 91 poeng.

Arild Håland mars 2015:  Fourrier Clos st. Jacques 2011 var derimot helt strålende, og var for meg kveldens beste vin. Jeg er veldig glad i Fourrier for hans svært rene frukt og lekre viner, og på dette nivået kombineres disse egenskapene med vinmarkens kvalitet, struktur og fruktkonsentrasjon. Da blir resultatet nært magisk. Nydelig rødfruktsparfyme, intens, ren og dyp, og den beste burgunderen jeg har smakt så langt i år. Det er et lite streif av 2011-grønske, men det skjemmer ikke. Stor vin. 





Musigny Grand Cuvèe Vielles Vignes 2007, Comte G. de Vogue
Anonym start på nesa, deretter popkorn, karameller og smørmalt. Ren Pinot Noir, ungdommelig og en høy "Grand Cru" aktig konsentrasjon. Men til en høy pris nå. 93 poeng





Chambolle Musigny La Combe d`Orveaux 2007, Bruno Clavellier
Frisk vin, svir litt i munnen. Litt typisk "chambolsk" lettvekter fra en lett årgang. 88 poeng.


Fra winehog;

La Combe d’Orveau – village, 1er cru and a part of Musigny


The Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau is one of the hidden gems of Cote de Nuits. Only a few producers make wine from this slightly overlooked terroir and a part of of the climate is now a part of a “rather” well known grand cru. The grand cru is of course Musigny and the story about the expansion of Musigny is also the story about La Combe d’Orveau a terroir with at least partly grand cru potential.Chambolle Musigny La Combe d’Orveau is devided in two sections – the 1er cru and grand cru climates located just above Clos de Vougeot on the slope just south of Les Petits Musigny and the village section located further west on the border between Flagey-Echezeaux and Chambolle-Musigny – see map below.
20140202-170759.jpg
Update – with new info on the Jacques Prieure holdings  In this article I will focus on the 1er and grand cru section of La Combe d’Orveau, allthough very good wines are made by J.-F. Mugnier, Anne Gros and Jean Grivot on the village climate located in the valley between Chambolle and Flagey. Anne Gros owns the largest part of the village section of La Combe d’Orveau – her plot is 1.1 ha – more than 50% of the 2.06 ha village part of La Combe d’Orveau.
The 1er and grand cru section of La Combe d’Orveau is located above and just south of Les Petits Musigny on a south east oriented slope just above the northwest corner of Clos de Vougeot. The area of this section is 3.15 ha, and was even before the expansion of Musigny in 1929 owned by several of the current owners of the terroir.
20140202-171043.jpg

The expansion of Musigny in 1929

The original Musigny vineyard had two main climates – Les Musigny and Les Petit Musigny. In 1929 a third climate was included in the Musigny appellation when a 0.62 ha part of La Combe d’Orveau owned by Jacques Prieur was promoted to grand cru Musigny 1.
It was the bottom part of La Combe d’Orveau that got promoted – see map below – and the rumor says that some of the other owners were reluctant to apply for a promotion due to higher land taxes on grand cru vineyards.3
IMG_3926.JPG
The cadastre maps have been changed since this expansion, so the map above is a approximation of the situation after the expansion of Musigny in 1929.

The second expansion of Musigny in 1989

In 1989 we saw the second expansion of Musigny, and it was again initiated by Jacques Prieur who wanted to expand the Musigny part of La Combe d’Orveau. In total 0.15 ha of La Combe d’Orveau 1er cru was promoted to grand cru on this occation – see map below.
IMG_3925-0.JPG
The boarders between the grand cru plots and the 1er cru plots are somewhat unclear, as the arial photo suggest one thing … while the cadastre maps show a more irregular border between the Faiveley and Prieur holdings … see map of ownership below.

The current owners on La Combe d’Orveau

There are five owners on the 1er cru and grand cru section of La Combe d’Orveau today. The largest owner is Domaine Bruno Clavelier who own the largest share of the 1er cru section, while Domaine Jacques Prieur is the second largest owner with the 0.7660 ha grand cru section and 0.0476 ha in the 1 er cru section – the 1er cru section is located at the top of the grand cru plot. According to my sources Jacques Prieure make around 150 bottles of La Combe d’Orveau 1er cru in a normal year.
  • Domaine Bruno Clavelier – 0.8155 ha
  • Domaine Jacques Prieur – 0.8136 ha
  • Domaine Perrot-Minot – 0.4736 ha
  • Domaine Taupenot-Merme – 0.4547 ha
  • Domaine Faiveley – 0.2907 ha
It should be notet that the Perrot-Minot and Taupenot-Merme plots originates from the Merme family as Henri Perrot-Minot was married to the daughter of Armand Merme in 1963 … and they took over some of the family vineyards.




Echezeaux Grand Cru 2007, Jean_Marc Millot
Ren rødbærsfrukt, god stamina, god balanse, kan lagres. 94 poeng





tirsdag 7. februar 2017

Cascina Francia 1997

Vinmøte Roar 19.1.17:


Barolo Cascina Francia 1997, Giacomo Conterno
Metallisk og syrlig med balsamisk rypeblod. Animalsk rå frukt, ikke Cote Rotie. Noe brett, vanskelig å ta som en Barolo. Den varme årgangen finter deg ut og denne utvikler seg ikke positivt. Kjøpt i Alba november 2016.  87-90 poeng

Galloni er heller ikke helt overbevist: 1997 Barolo Cascina Francia – Dark ruby.  Incredibly beautiful nose of dried flowers and sweet fruit.  The 1997 is dense and lush on the palate, showing very ripe dark cherry fruit, with notable extract and glycerin.  Another wine that is just singing today, the alluring and irresistible 1997 offers superb drinking now.  92+ points/drink now-?, tasted 05/05




                                                  Bilderesultat for monsanto chianti classico riserva 1995



Monsanto Chianti Classico 1995
Eik, kaffe, brunelloaktig, uren på nesa, gummi, kokt frukt, Sør-afrika ? Tørrer ut i finish, sigartoner, drikk opp. 83-85 poeng





                               Bilderesultat for gaja sperss 2000


Barolo Sperss 2000, Gaja
Kokt, varm, intens og rik. Gaja fornekter seg ikke ! Mye eik, mangler eleganse og personlighet som en Barolo bør ha. Kan minne litt om 2000 Solaia ! Men en vin som nok mange liker. 90-92 poeng








Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1995, Tenuta Col d`Orcia
Eldet, tjære og nype. Vi var i Piemonte, men litt sliten vin får ofte en slik karakter. Noen dype toner av kirsebær, men tørrer ut i finish med et vegetalt preg. Drikk opp. 88 poeng




Barolo 1982, Bartolo Mascarello
Uklar, søtlig moden frukt, intens og rik. 1961 ? Klassiske fioler og tjærebåt, etterhvert litt surt treverk og tørrer litt ut i finish. Synd den var uklar og ikke helt ren. 90 poeng




onsdag 1. februar 2017

Besøk Roberto Voerzio 11.11.16












Smakingen var ikke den beste, vi var en stor gruppe og stående med et glass ble det lite notater. Men dertil mere hyggelig ! Vi fikk hilse på sjefen sjøl og det er alltid et godt tegn på "tilstedeværelse". Roberto er en legende og selv om han er meget opptatt av vinifikasjon, er det i vinmarken han ønsker hovedfokus. Han legger ekstrem vekt på lavt utbytte, oppbinding, reduserte antall skudd pr. gren, "green-harvesting", bladtetthet og tettere beplantning etc. etc...  I kombinasjon med redusert bruk av ny eik i kjeller`n  er det blitt mere eleganse over hans viner. Noe som jeg synes smakingen viste.
Men det er fremdeles tøffe viner med endel markerte tanniner, Så overgangen fra besøket hos Elio Altare var stor !
I Vinklubben havner hans baroloer ofte mellom 90 og 92 poeng. Ikke dårlige viner, men du må like ny eik for å nyte hans viner fullt ut. Hvis denne tendensen nå har endret seg bør hans viner bli mer elegante og enda bedre.  

Dyr Chateau Angelus


Ristorante More e Macine i La Morra 10.11.17;


Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 2011, Vietti
1961 var den første årgangen for en enkelmarksvin i Rocche di Castiglione. Derfor "50" på etiketten. Veldig parfymert nese, fioler, dyp nese med whiff av parfymeavdelingen på Steen & Strøm. Lys og korrekt Castiglione frukt med solide tanniner. Tilgjengelig nese, men ikke tilgjengelig munn.
89 poeng

Vinous.com

Rocche di Castiglione
The village of Castiglione Falletto lies in the middle of the Barolo zone, where the soils from the two main periods – Serravallian and Tortonian – come together, often resulting in rich tapestries of soils that yield distinctive wines. One of the signatures of the best Castiglione Falletto Barolos is their ability to drink well relatively early and also age for decades. Castiglione Barolos are often intensely perfumed and have a silkiness to their tannins that is distinctive. All of those qualities find their highest expression in Rocche di Castiglione and nearby Monprivato. With the 2010 vintage, Rocche di Castiglione is known by its full name, but before then it was also often seen on labels as simply Rocche, which, among other things, caused confusion with other similarly named vineyards such as Rocche dell’Annuniziata in La Morra.
The Currado family owns two parcels totaling just under one hectare in Rocche di Castiglione, a steep, vertigo-inducing site outside the center of town. The original vineyard is the larger piece that lies in the direction of Monforte. According to Luca Currado, this parcel has been in the family for as long as he has records. Colloquially, the vineyard is still known as ‘Rocche di Natale’ after the farmer who previously owned the land.
Now shared between Vietti and Roccheviberti, this vineyard was formerly one large parcel. Currado observes that the clonal makeup in both holdings is exactly the same across the two large horizontal sections that run across the properties, which leads him to think the land was originally divided into upper and lower sections, but was later reconfigured to give both owners access to the main road above. The lower part of the vineyard is planted with an old variant of Michet, while the upper section is planted with a combination of Michet, Rosé and Lampia Nebbiolo clones.
In the mid 1980s, Vietti bought a second piece in Rocche that lies closer to Castiglione Falletto, near the bend in the road and nestled between Brovia’s holdings. It, too, is locally known by the name of its previous owner, in this case, Margherita. This parcel is also planted with an old variant of Michet, identified as such because the bunches have no wings. According to Currado, the soils are not markedly different between the two parcels; both are rich in the blue tufa/sand mixture that is typical of Rocche, with perhaps just a bit more sand in the vineyard on the Castiglione side.
Although Vietti’s Barolo Rocche has been an estate wine for some time, there was a period during which Alfredo Currado purchased grapes from his neighbors. Records are inexact at best (Piedmont is still Italy), but purchased fruit is almost certainly present in vintages through the mid 1990s with a production in excess of 5,000 or so bottles. For example, in 1986 Vietti made 5,300 bottles of the Rocche and that is after hail wiped out more than half of their crop. Similarly, production of the 1988 surpassed 7,000 bottles, while the 1995 came in around 6,500 bottles. Of course, none of the techniques that are used today such as green harvesting, bleeding and sustainable farming (which tends to naturally reduce yields) were common up until the 1990s, so information on labels alone can only tell part of the story. Today, Vietti makes closer to 4,000 bottles of Rocche, which is the norm for what is considered quality-driven farming and yields by present day standards.
Rocche di Castiglione, Castiglione Falletto, parcel by parcel. © 2016 Enogea, Alessandro Masnaghetti Editore. All rights reserved. Used with permission.
Vietti fans will also notice Cascina Briacca on the map. Briacca lies just off the road that leads to Roagna’s Cascina Pira. Alfredo Currado purchased grapes from this site for his Barolo Briacca from the 1970s through the early 1990s. The 1978, last tasted a few years ago, was still fabulous. One of the particularities of this site is that it was originally planted with the Rosé clone of Nebbiolo. In the late 1980s, the owner replanted the vineyard with clonal material that Alfredo Currado found less interesting. A few years later, he stopped working with the fruit.



Barolo Brunate 2001, Roberto Voerzio
Ganske typisk Voerzio med uklar og tett, mørk "grumesete" frukt. Tørr avslutning, mye eik og tydelige tanniner fortsatt. Usikker på om dette var en optimal flaske. Kokos, fløte, mokka. Mangler endel eleganse. 88 poeng




Chateau Angelus 1998, St. Emilion
Slik går det når du sender Buøen ned i restaurantkjeller`n ! Han kom opp med en Angelus til 350 Euro ! Men klassisk Bordeaux var det, mørk, fremdeles vital og ungdommelig selv om den snart er 20 år gammel, stor konsentrasjon, men mangler endel balanse. Viser veien til slottets progresjon til A-status. 90 poeng