mandag 25. juni 2012

Champagne of the Year 2012


Vinklubben Kåte Rhoner har avholdt  "generalforsamling" hver sommer siden 1989. Etter endel år ble champagnefrokosten et høydepunkt på lørdag morgen der spesielt Jon & Roar står sentralt mht. innkjøp av mat og uttak av de champagner som skal drikkes. F.o.m. 1995 er det kåret  "Champagne of the Year" og i den anledning ble det iår laget en vandrepokal / champagnekjøler som går til den beste champagnen ! 17 tidligere champagnebidrag/vinnere er gravert inn på sokkel som er:


2011;    Laurent-Perrier Grand Siecle NV, 96 poeng   (medtatt av Knut Gaaserud)

2010;    Krug  1998.  95 poeng

2009;    Pol Roger Winston Churchill  1990.  97 poeng
2008;     Dom Perignon  1982.  98 poeng

2007;    Salon  1985.  96 poeng

2006;    Dom Perignon  1990.  96 poeng

2005;    Henri Giraud  1993 Tetè de Chene.  94 poeng
2004;    Dom Perignon  1993.  92 poeng

2003;    Jacques Selosse Brut ”Substance” Blanc de Blanc NV. 92 poeng
2002;    Pol Roger Winston Churchill   1990.  95 poeng

2001;    Salon  1985.  93 poeng
2000;    Salon  1988.  93 poeng

1999;    Taittinger Comtes de Champagne  1989.  88 poeng
1998;    Bollinger Grande Annè  1989.   89 poeng

1997;    Dom Perignon  1990.  88 poeng
1996;    Dom Perignon  1988.  85 poeng

1995;   Bollinger RD  1988.  85 poeng

Lørdag 12. mai 2012.

Champagne nr. 1: Blanc des Millenaires 1985,  Blanc de Blancs, Charles Heidsieck



Moden, lys gylden, servert litt varm, enorm mineralitet, men skjemmende korkduft sitter i. Bedre på smak, men selv ved påfyll merkes korkduften. Klassisk stil med tydelige og markerte gjæraromaer og god mineralitet. Synd ! 89 poeng og sisteplass. Ca. kr. 2 200,- på Vinmonopolet Vika.


Champagne nr. 2: Cristal 1982, Roederer




Frisk med et tydelig fatpreg og snev av vanilje i nesen. En god utviklet champagne, men de fleste trodde nok denne var betydelig yngre enn det den var. 2 stk. gjettet 1996 og 2 stk gjettet 1988/1989 !  En fantastisk munnfølelse, Krugaktig i sin elegante og rike stil. Mister endel mousse og denne champagnen er veldig vinøs og kompleks. Kremet stil med lang ettersmak. Cristal er ofte særdeles slank de første 10 år. Deretter "feter" de seg opp og denne synes jeg var optimal. Ca. 300 euro. 96 poeng og denne ble nr. 2.



Champagne nr. 3: Deutz Blanc de Blancs Brut 1989:



Lysere farge med tydelig gjæraroma. Klassisk stil med ivrige bobler. Moden og rik frukt, men skjuler endel. "Fra et veldig godt år" sier Are. En veldig god struktur og ryggrad i vinen. 1995 eller 1996 ?  Champagne Charlie ? En enorm munnfølelse med en korrekt bitter og "vanskelig" ettersmak. En champagne med superb balanse. 95 poeng og 3dje plass.

Vi hadde denne på vinmøte hos Are 17.2.11; Gylden moden stråfarge. Rik og vinøs i munnen. Deilig gul nesten brunlig frukt, ikke så mye mousse. Korrekt bitter marmelade i ettersmak, ikke så lang. Mye gjæraktig autolysepreg og alle var entusiastiske på denne. Moden champagne er fantastisk godt ! Til halve prisen av Salon er dette veldig bra. 94-98 poeng. Kr. 976,- på spesialslippet Briskeby høsten 2010.

Champagne nr. 4: Cuveè William Deutz Brut 1988



Ivrig mousse og ganske lett i munnen. Slank, rettlinjet, klar, ren og flott. Cristal-aktig lys med litt "enkel" frukt. Gjær, toast og klassisk. Stram og konsentrert, trenger mere tid ? Den "trangeste" champagnen med snev av eik. Litt mye battonage ?  To gjettet årgang 1985, en gjettet 1982. 93 poeng og nr. 6.


Champagne nr. 5: Legras St. Vincent 1996




Servert litt for varm, fruktig, energisk, uforløst og litt uelegant. Sitroner og solbær, bør lagres. 1996 ? Brioche, Bl. de Blancs ? Dyrepels, snev av sopp og surt friskt munnbitt. En veldig karakterfull champagne, til denne prisen et veldig godt kjøp. 95 poeng og nr. 4.


St. Vincent er noe av det aller beste som lages overhodet på chardonnaydruen i Champagne. Dosagen er på bare tre. Dette var en cuvée de begynte å lage i 1964. Siden er den blitt laget i 1969, 71, 73, 76, 81, 83, 88 og 90 før altså 96 som nå er i salg. Siden har de også laget 2000 og vil trolig også lage en i årgang 2007.

Selv om lageret av skikkelig gammel vin er veldig lite så har selskapet en politikk om å la cuvéene ligge lenge før de selges. Med den enorme syren vinene har bør de helst få litt tid før de selges er mottoet. Så i dag selges årgang 1990 og 1996 av St. Vincent. Tidligere ble 70 prosent av produksjonen solgt i Frankrike, i dag går 70 prosent til eksport, storts ett bare til europeiske markeder. Så langt har rundt 10.000 flasker de siste to-tre årene gått til Norge.

33904 Legras Cuvée Saint Vincent Blanc de Blancs Brut 1996

R&L Legras, Champagne, Frankrike. 648,39 kroner. 1038,70 kroner (magnum med varenummer 43431). Vanlige 0,75-literflasker med varenummer 33904 til 401,30 kroner. 95 poeng. Red& White

Dessverre har prisen gått litt opp fra den gang den ble lansert i Norge. Likevel: Fantastisk champagne fra fantastisk årgang. Laget av svært gamle chardonnay-vinstokker i Grand Cru Chouilly. Denne vinen blir bedre for hver gang vi smaker den. Nydelige aromaer av sitrus, eple, gjær, sjø og kalk. Intens og konsentrert, med syrerik og tørr smak. Flott, lang og jordsmonnspreget ettersmak. Magnumflaskene er tomme akkurat nå, men nye kommer inn om en ukes tid, altså akkurat for sent til 17. mai-feiringen. Finnes riktignok på enkelte utsalg. Den vanlige flasken finnes i gode antall på svært mange butikker i Oslo og i Bærum samt i Trømsø. Drikkes fra nå til 2016. TM

Champagne nr. 6: Salon 1985




Nedfallsfrukt, høstepler, utviklet og deilig moden. Helt på kanten, optimal nå, mørkere frukt, gylden. En fantastisk energi og indre kraft. Bittesmå bobler, appelsinskall, nøtter, kompleks og en perfekt champagne. Den eldste champagnen i rekken ? (det var det ikke !) Sjelden man drikker en slik champagne. 97 poeng og CHAMPAGNE OF THE YEAR 2012 ! Tatt med av Kim.



Champagne nr. 7:  Bruno Paillard NPU 1996

 

 

 



"Lys farge, en fantastisk energisk champagne med vitalitet, ungdom og friskhet. 1996 ? Lanson ? Gjærtoner, citrus, smal og uforløst. Bør lagres. Klassisk og stram champagne og flere var på Blanc de Blancs. En veldig karakterfull champis som har en litt undermoden og grønn karakter. Noe bitter og skråstilt ettersmak. Nedfallsepler. Oh så godt ! Men man må like denne stilen. Ikke alle gjør det. 93,5 poeng i gjennomsnitt. Og den ble nr. 5 av 7. Et utrolig høyt nivå på denne smakingen "





mandag 18. juni 2012

Opus One 1994, Mondavi-Rothschild, Napa


Sommeravslutning CRU Vinklubben Kåte Rhoner 14.6.2012:

Rød intens dyp frukt, kaffe, frisk, mye trøkk av modne solbær. Spicy varmt krydder. Kanel, gløgg og en "moskus" av en vin. Ligner litt på Dominus 94, men denne faller litt igjennom mht. eleganse. Blir litt varm og "plommete" med varme steiner og litt slappfisk mht. syre etterhvert i glasset. Eksotisk Mouton-aktig dette. Men ikke elegansen til Mouton. Damaskusplomme ? Jeg var nok mere entusiastisk enn de andre. 93-95 poeng.

Ruchottes Chambertin Grand Cru 2000, G. Roumier / Michel Bonnefond


Sommeravslutning CRU Vinklubben Kåte Rhoner 14.6.2012:

Fantastisk burgundernese, fragrant, jordbær, stall, rødbærsfrukt. 99 poeng på nese ! 2000 er fremdeles en pen og åpen "restaurantårgang" for rød burgunder. Stein, mineraler og en saltaktig munnfølelse. Litt lett vs. OPUS 94, men en genuin burgunder ! Mangler noe sting og trøkk. I 1977 solgte Thomas-Bassot 0,54 hektar Ruchottes Chambertin. Denne parsellen ble kjøpt opp av Michel Bonnefond. Etter anbefaling fra Rousseau mottar Roumier 2/3 av avkastningen på denne eiendommen. (Går utifra at Bonnefond mottar resterende 1/3 som ferdig vin ?) Det finnes etiketter med begge navn. 90-94 poeng.

Clive Coates; The nucleus of this domaine lies in the dowry of Geneviève Quanquin, who married Georges Roumier in 1924. Georges, who was born in 1898, came from Dun-Les-Places, in the Charollais cattle country near Saulieu. When he arrived in Chambolle he took over the Quanquin family vineyards, enlarged the exploitation by taking on a small part of Musigny en metayage and buying additional land in the commune, and set up on his own, independent of his parents-in-law, who also had a négociant business. (This ceased to exist after the Second World War.)
The domaine was further enlarged in the 1950s. More Bonnes Mares, from the Domaine Belorgey, arrived in 1952. Two parcels of Clos Vougeot were added in the same year. And in 1953 the 2.5 ha monopoly of the premier cru Clos de la Bussière in Morey-Saint-Denis was acquired from the Bettenfeld family. In the 1930s this parcel had belonged to the Graillet estate, the residue of which was subsequently to form the base of the Domaine Dujac.
Georges and Geneviève had seven children, five of them boys, and I get the feeling he must have been a bit of a martinet, not willing to let go of the reins. In 1955, Alain, the eldest son, left to take up the position of régisseur for the neighbouring De Vogüé domaine. Another son, Paul, became a courtier. Jean-Marie, the third, had started playing a part in the domaine in 1954 and eventually took over when his father retired in 1961 (Georges died in 1965). In this year, wishing to keep the domaine intact, the brothers formed a limited company for their inheritance, which together with the sisters' holdings, was rented to the domaine. When he retirered from De Vogüé Alain retrieved his share, these vineyards now being exploited separately by the widow of his son Hervé and his other son Laurent.
Today the winemaker at the Domaine Georges Roumier is the 52 year old Christophe, son of Jean-Marie. Christophe was born in 1958, studied oenology at Dijon University, did a stage at the excellent Cairanne co-operative in the Côtes du Rhône in 1980, and joined his father the year after. The wines were fine in Georges and Jean-Marie's time. They have reached even greater heights under the aegis of Christophe.
In more recent times there have been three significant additions to the Roumier portfolio. In 1977, when the Thomas-Bassot domaine was being sold, a substantial slice of Ruchottes-Chambertin came on the market. Two parcels were quickly snapped up by Charles Rousseau and Dr Georges Mugneret. The third was acquired by a businessman and oenophile from Rouen, one Michel Bonnefond. At Rousseau's suggestion Bonnefond entered into a metayage arrangement with the Roumiers, and Christophe now gets two thirds of the yield of this 0.54 ha parcel. You can find under both labels. It is the same wine.
In the following year, Jean-Marie Roumier finally managed to buy the parcel of Musigny, just under one tenth of a hectare (it only produces a cask and a half) which the family had been share-cropping since the 1920s.
Seven years later, in 1984, a French merchant in Lausanne, Jean-Pierre Mathieu, bought a small section (0.27 ha) of Mazoyères-Chambertin. This again is rented en metayage to Christophe Roumier. The financial arrangements are a little different here, and Roumier only gets half of the crop, which, like most Mazoyères, is labelled as Charmes, a name easier to pronounce and sell.
Somewhat earlier than this, back in 1968, Christophe's mother, Odile Ponnelle, bought a parcel of land, en friche, on the Pernand-Vergelesses side of Corton-Charlemagne, half-way down the slope from the Bois de Corton. The land was cleared and replanted, the first vintage being 1974. It is delicious, but there is little of it: three pièces from 0.2 ha.
The heart of the 12 hectare Roumier domaine, as always, lies in Chambolle-Musigny. A number of parcels in the village, totalling almost four hectares, produce a splendid village wine. There are originally six cuvées of this, eventually blended together, and within this wine will be the yield of some old vines of Pinot Beurot, a sort of Pinot Gris, the residue of the old days when a f ew white vines were planted in with the red in nearly every Burgundian climat to add balance and complexity to the wine.
Christophe Roumier is fortunate to own vines in the three most famous premiers crus in the commune: Les Cras, and, since 2005, when it was first seperated from the village wine, Les Combottes; 1.76 ha and 0 27 ha respectively.
On the other side of the village, just under the northern end of Le Musigny, there is 0.4 ha of Amoureuses, Chambolle's finest premier cru. This plot was planted in three stages, in 1954, 1966 and 1971. The vines in the parcel of Musigny itself, lying nearby, date from 1934.
Roumier's most important wine, though, is not this Musigny, or not always, but the Bonnes-Mares. (A pièce and a half is difficult to vinify. And though Christophe considers Musigny in principle the grandest grand cru in the Côte D'Or he finds the results of his Musigny less regular). There are four parcels of Bonnes-Mares, all in the Chambolle part of this grand cru, totalling 1.45 ha.
There are two distinct soil types in Bonnes-Mares. At the Morey end the soil is terres rouges. But, coming down the slope in a diagonal line from above the Clos de Tart and continuing south towards Chambolle the soil changes to terres blanches (if you look carefully you will see a large quantity of small fossilised oysters) and this makes up most of the climat. Three of Christophe Roumier's parcels are terres blanches, one terres rouges. He normally vinifies them separately and blends them together afterwards. What is the difference? The terres rouges gives the power, the backbone, the concentration, says Christophe. Wine from the terres blanches is more spiritual. From here we get the finesse, the intensity, the definition. But a blend is yet greater the sum of the parts.
Below the northern, Morey, end of the vineyard and the Clos de Tart the land sinks into a hollow as it comes down the slope (this is the premier cru of Ruchots) and then rises up a little. Here we find the enclosed vineyard of Bussière. In a house in the middle lives Christophe's mother, Jean-Marie Roumier having died in 2002.
Finally there is the Clos Vougeot, which sadly Christophe no longer exploits. Originally there were two parcels, vinified together and sold both under the Georges Roumier label. After 1984, the upper part was taken back by Alain and Hervé, and after the 1996 harvest the second parcel passed to Laurent Roumier. It is certainly a good wine. But in Christophe Roumier's view: "It is not really of top grand cru quality." I don't think that is sour grapes. I happen to agree with him.
"I make wines from terroir which expresses itself through Pinot Noir.," says Christophe Roumier, who today runs the domaine with the assisitance of his sister Delphine. (There are two other sisters). There is a lot more to fine wine than merely the variety it is made from, he will point out. Roumier sees his role as an intermediary, as a facilitator. The vigneron's duty is to allow the vines to produce fruit which, when vinified, will be unmistakably typical of its origins. The winemaker's job is to effect this translation from fruit into wine. But it is a question of control rather than creativity. The creation is being done by the vine, by its location, by mother nature: not by man.
Along with most of the progressives in the region Christophe Roumier has turned his back on weedkilling sprays, preferring to plough the vines. This is sometimes difficult where a vineyard has not been cultivated for some time, as important roots may be cut in the process. But an ancillary benefit where it is done is that the roots are encouraged to penetrate deeper.
The average age of the vines in the Roumier domaine is high, but they don't make a fetish of it. Once a parcel has reached, say, 50 years old, individual vines are not replaced as they die off. So eventually, as fiftenn yers ago in one part of their Bonnes Mares, the whole parcel can be cleared, the land disinfected against viral contamination, and eventually replanted. At first the young vines are Cordon trained, when their youthful vigour has died down this is replaced by the traditional Guyot method.
Pruning is severe, and the harvest is further contained by an elimination of excess buds and shoots during the spring. This is much more effective, says Christophe, than a green harvest later in the season. By then it is too late, he maintains, though he does it to thin out late develping bunches or if there are two adjoining, which might give rise to rot. He has no time for those who systematically green harvest every year. It shows they didn't restrict the crop properly in the first place. This discipline is reflected in the Roumier harvest: 41 he/ha in village wine, 34 in premier cru, 30 in grand cru in the last big vintage: 2000. This is the key, says Christophe, to the production of great wine.
The next part of the jigsaw is the quality of the fruit. Trials have convinced Christophe that the ratio of leaves to fruit, and their exposure, is critical. So he prefers a large canopy, trained a little higher than some, at least during the early part of the season. It is also important, he believes, to eliminate the second generation of fruit, the verjus.
There is a careful triage, both in the vineyard and later when the fruit arrives in the cuverie up at the top of the village, but a flexible attitude to the quantity of the stems which are kept. The Bourgogne Rouge and the village Chambolle are usually destemmed. For the rest it depends very much on the vintage, Christophe not deciding until the harvest begins. From 20 to 50 percent of the stems are normally retained. The bigger the wine and the more concentrated the harvest the higher the amount tends to be. The wine is vinified in open top wooden wood, concrete or closed stainless steel vats. The first two materials are preferable, says Christophe, for the heat generated by the fermentation is slower to dissipate.
Fermentations at the Roumier domaine begin slowly, so there is always a brief period of pre-fermentation maceration. Thereafter, Christophe likes to prolong the extraction, maintaining the temperature just under 30°, as long as possible. The temperature level is one of the winemaker's most important points of intervention, Christophe believes. It should not go too high, for you begin to lose the subtleties of the aromas above 33°.
As you would expect from the Roumier approach to terroir, this is a domaine which does not approve of a lot of new oak. Thirty percent is about maximum. "I want to taste the wine, not the cask," says Christophe, pointing out that new wood is the best mask for wine faults. The wine is kept on its lees until racking the following September. Until 1993 the wines were fined with one egg white only per pièce, But no longer,and it is not filtered either. The 2006 village wine was bottled after 15/16 months, but normally bottling takes place later, between February and May of the following year.
Christophe Roumier is refreshingly open about the quality of his wines. I have referred already to his view on his Clos Vougeot and to the irregularity of the Musigny as a direct consequence of the size of the cuve. "It should be the best, but it isn't always". In principle, he will tell you, Mazis, in the line of Chambertin and Clos de Bèze, should be better than Ruchottes, which lies upslope. It gets more sun later in the evening in September. The reason Ruchottes has the higher reputation, I suggest to him, is that the three most important producers, Rousseau, the Mesdames Mugneret and himself, are all highly competent wine-makers, while in Mazis there are a dozen or so, some good, some less so. The real Charmes, Christophe will also insist, is a better terroir than that of the Mazoyères.
The Roumier range begins with the Corton-Charlemagne. The vines are now of a respectable age, and since 1985, at the very least, have been producing wine of really top quality, though Christophe is not a fan of his 2002.
The reds, as I have said, are more muscular than most: full, virile, austere, made to last; not necessarily wines which sing in their youth. Time is required, a decade for the best wines in the best vintages. The series begins with a Bourgogne Rouge (2 ha). This is a sturdy example, but none the worse for that, even in 1997 it had good structure and good acidity. The village Chambolle follows next. It is a bigger wine than those of Ghislaine Barthod or De Vogûé, and it takes longer to open out. But there is no lack of finesse, no lack of Chambolle fragrance. The Morey, Clos de la Bussière, is firmer and chunkier. It used to have a touch of the rustic about it, but I have noticed this less in the last decade. Again it lasts well.
You will usually be offered, winemakers normally giving you the wines to taste in their order of preference, the Chambolle-Musigny, Combettes and the Cras before the Amoureuses. The former is plump, ripe and full of charm, and the latter magnificent in its austerity: really classy. The Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses, though, is delicious. Here we really do find distinction and class, as well as the supreme fragrance of the commune. It is a fitting example of the village's greatest premier cru. In Roumier's hands clearly a wine of grand cru quality.
The next two wines in the range are from the climats in Gevrey that Christophe farms en metayage, the Charmes and the Ruchottes. The latter is clearly finer than the former. Christophe suggests that the wine benifits, like in its own way that of the Mesdames Mugneters, from the fact that it is made and matured in a 'foreign' i.e. In his case Chambolle, cellar, and can take up some of these Chambolle nuances. Here we have intensity as well as weight and richness, the lush flamboyance of Gevrey-Chambertin, and all the finesse you would expect in top quality Burgundy.
The Bonnes-Mares, by contrast, is always much more closed-in; somewhat solid at the outset, much less expressive. It seems to go through more of an adolescent phase, and it is only on the finish - but of course, when a wine is young, the finish is what you should concentrate on - that you can see the breed, the complexity and the depth. Is this Burgundy's best Bonnes-Mares? It needs at least a decade to come round.
When the Musigny is good, and it usually is, it is brilliant. It has less backbone than the Bonnes-Mares, less density. But it can be equally backward, needing just as much time to come round. Sometimes the Bonnes-Mares has more concentration and a better balance. Sometimes, the reverse is the case. It is a pity there is so little of it. I have sampled it ten times in cask for every occcasion I have met it in bottle.
What does Christophe Roumier have to say about Chambolle and his wines? "Yes. Chambolle is the most elegant wine of the Côte. There is nothing origibal about that statement. But for me the wines are also the mos tmineral. There is a purity, a fruit, an elegance and a disitinction which come in large part from the extra amount of limestone in our soil, and perhaps the marginally higher altitude. I try to make my wines express this."
In sum, this is one of Burgundy's greatest domaines and Christophe Roumier is one of its most intelligent and knowledgable wine-makers. The combination of the two produces magic.

Volnay Clos du Chateau des Ducs 2003, Domaine Lafarge


Sommeravslutning CRU Vinklubben Kåte Rhoner 14.6.2012:

Mørk, tett, frisk og klar. Ikke så mye burgundertypisitet. Årgangens varme og intense karakter overskygger jordsmonnet. Men årgangen kler samtidig den markerte syra til Lafarge. Mørke bær, kirsebær, en god og harmonisk vin. Mangler noe mht. kompleksitet, syrefriskhet og eleganse som Lafarge ofte leverer. 89 - 91 poeng.


A superbly elegant and very pure nose of notably ripe yet fresh red small berry fruits, subtle earth, clove, anise and underbrush merges into intense, sweet and superbly precise flavors that are the epitome of a high class Volnay. In particular, the finishing minerality contributes to the overall impression of elegance and precision, two characteristics that are relatively rare in this hot and generous vintage. In short, this is a really beautiful effort that should cellar well for years. Note that I have upgraded my score slightly as well as extended the suggested initial drinking window by two years.
Score: 91Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (91), February 2009

Chevaliers Montrachet 2004, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey


Sommeravslutning CRU Vinklubben Kåte Rhoner 14.6.2012:

Allehånde, nellik og nye fat. Både Øyvind og sommelier var usikre om denne skulle være slik. Ganske trang og uforløst, slanker seg pent inn i glasset, men litt for ivrig fatbruk. Krydder og en rik Grand Cru. Det ble endel diskusjon om dette kan kalles en vin fra kommunen Puligny !? Fat, fet og semimineralsk. En god flaske. 92-95 poeng.

Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey - Photo (photo 1 / 2)

Bienvenues-Batard Montrachet 2001, Louis Cariilon


Sommeravslutning CRU Vinklubben Kåte Rhoner 14.6.2012:

Mot gylden, lukter gammel hvit burgund. Både sommelier og Are var usikker på om den skulle returneres som feilvare ! Are var sikker på at dette ikke var en optimal flaske. Nøtter, smør og marsipan, antydning til fedme og rikhet, men egentlig ingen "crowd-pleaser". Bør nok ikke lagres og den skinner ikke som en Grand Cru skal gjøre. Noe uelegant, men frisk i munnen fremdeles. Ikke flaskefeil mente jeg, men uenighet rundt bordet. 89 - 92 poeng

Chablis Grenouilles Grand Cru 1998, Domaine Louis Michel


Sommeravslutning CRU Vinklubben Kåte Rhoner 14.6.2012:

Noe gylden, men grønt skjær etter 14 år. Godt og typisk chablis nese, ultraklassisk. Kalk, sjø og mineralsk. Perfekt moden, ingen antydning til "flabbyness". Ved påfyll mere floral. Tannstein, grus og typisk Michel-eleganse. 95 % av chablis lagrer ikke så godt som dette ! Slank stil, men legger litt på seg i glasset. Rik og slank på en gang. Optimal chablis ! 94 poeng.

Fra vinfakta: De 7 grand cru-markene som ligger samlet i en sørvestvendt ås nord/nordøst for landsbyen Chablis har ikke endret seg mye de siste 25 årene (92 ha i 1982 og 103 i 2003). Merk at i motsetning til sør i Burgund hvor kun vinmarksnavnet settes på grand cru-etiketten, står det her Chablis grand cru + vinmarknavnet. Laroche var initiativtaker til Union des Grands Crus de Chablis (UGCC) der 2/3 av grand cru-produsentene undertegnet et charter i 2001 hvor de forplikter seg til å følge en del kvalitetsstandarder i produksjonen (13 er fremdeles med, ca 50 ha).

Raveneau og Dauvissat har holdt seg utenfor, og Billaud-Simon har meldt seg ut.

Mange vil nok plassere vinmarkene kvalitetsmessig som følger:

- Les Clos (26 ha) - den beste, fyldig/rik/mineralsk, veldig terroirpreget, trenger 10-12 års lagring før konsum.
- Valmur (13,2 ha) - kraftig, rik, nervøs, klassisk terroirpreg og nesten på høyde med Les Clos.
- Grenouilles (9.4 ha) - kombinasjon av terroirpreg og eleganse, tilgjengelig, La Chablisienne eier 79%.
- Vaudésir (14,7 ha) - varmest klima, overdådig (fet/kraftig), sjarmerende, tilgjengelig.
- Preuses ( 11,4 ha) - kraftig terroirpreg, finesserike, modnes ofte raskere.
- Blanchots (12,7 ha) - lettere, elegant, blomsteraromaer, fruktig (aprikos), ujevn kvalitet blant produsentene og i svake årganger. Skyggefull vinmark som ikke burde ha grand cru-status.
- Bougros (12,6 ha) - rustikk, jordlig, litt uberegnelig, den nedre bratte delen er best, William Fèvre eier ca. 50%.
I tillegg lager Domaine Long-Depaquit en vin fra sin 2,35 ha monopolparsell La Moutonne i Vaudésir og Preuses som han i 1951 fikk godkjent å selge som La Moutonne grand cru.

Premier cru (de beste):
Totalt er det 17 områder underdelt i ca. 40 1er cru-marker (ca 775 ha).

De beste ligger på østsiden på hver side av grand cru-markene (de tre første) og rett over elven Serein på vestsiden (de to siste):
- Montée de Tonnerre (best - mineralske), Fourchaume (lett tilgjengelig), Mont de Milieu
- Montmains (best, inklusive vinmarken Forêt), Vaillons (inklusive vinmarken Séchet).

Gode årganger
2009 (tidlig konsum), 2008, 2007, 2005, 2004 (klassisk), 2002, 2000 (mangler litt konsentrasjon), 1999 (variabel), 1997, 1996 (i utgangspunktet fantastisk, men se opp for oksidasjon og ubalanse), 1995 (blitt bedre ved lagring), 1992 (litt syrefattig), 1990 (toppår, god grand cru drikker til 2015).
Eldre årganger der de beste grand cru kan kjøpes, fortrinnsvis fra de beste produsentene, men vir at mye er oksydert: 1989, 1988, 1987, 1985 (klassisk årgang), 1983, 1980, 1978, 1975, 1959.

Pur Sang Sauvignon Blanc 2002, Domaine Didier Dagueneau


Sommeravslutning CRU Vinklubben Kåte Rhoner 14.6.12:

En imponerende grønt skjær i vinen fremdeles etter 10 år. Ekstrem nese i starten med solbærbusk, Sauvignon Blanc, grønne blader og gummistøvler. Utrolig syre, ekstremvin, lang ettersmak, steinaktig med rik mineralitet. Rabarbra, men det er denne stålsyren som dominerer vinen. Urene noter trekker ned, men vinen "tar av seg gummistøvlene" etterhvert og fremstår etter en halv time i en renere stil. Men noe stikkende syre og på grensen til ubalanse. Uenigheter rundt bordet her. 90-92 poeng.

Domaine Didier Dagueneau is located in Saint Andelain, a village in the Pouilly Fumé Appellation. He owns about 28 acres of land consisting of mainly clay and flint based soils (or ‘Silex’ in French). Dagueneau is a perfectionist and he attends to every detail — from vineyard management (biodynamic since 1993) to the cellar, which is said to look like a cathedral. He goes way beyond the regulations of the appellation — pruning severely, de-budding, de-leafing, thinning clusters, and keeping low yields — and each harvest is done manually over several tries.

A young rebel with convictions. Dagueneau owes his success to the strength of his convictions. A local winemaker’s son, he set out on his own in 1982. He began using oak barrels for his vinifications a couple years later and wines of great quality were not far behind. Certain traditionalists, however, said that his wines were not “real” Pouilly Fume. Dagueneau’s non-conformity has helped him more than hurt him: his long tousled hair, his bushy beard, his intense gaze, not to mention his passion for sled dogs have all earned him the nickname “the madman of Saint-Andelain” and made him very popular with the press. What does Dagueneau have that the other don’t? He is extremely meticulous and possesses a special intuition where winemaking is concerned. His goals are always authenticity and perfection. To obtain grapes of the highest quality, his vineyard workers spend at least three months carefully de-budding even after a severe pruning earlier in the year. And when the grapes are perfectly ripe, the harvest is done by hand, so that only grapes of impeccable condition are picked, the others are either thrown out or left on the vine to be picked later.

His new winemaking facilities, specifically adapted to Dagueneau’s techniques, use gravity for moving liquids and allow him to apply his ideas without the slightest compromise. After fermentation, the wines are aged in a beautiful cellar containing big barrels and “cigares” (small, long oval barrels which he designed and are made especially for him). The cellar is kept quite cool to limit interaction between the wine and the oak, thus avoiding an overly oaky aroma in the wine.
Dagueneau makes four different dry white wines, all Pouilly Fumés. His basic wine is the En Chailloux, a blend from several vineyards. Next step up is the Buisson Menard, more flinty in style, but still round, and more ageworthy. The remaining two wines are both superstars from single vineyards, and are barrel fermented. Both come from slate soils with one being called Silex, and the other known as Pur Sang.

Pur Sang means “Thoroughbred” in English. The flavors tend to fall somewhere in between the En Chailloux (which accounts for half his production and is his softest, friendliest wine) and Cuvée Silex (his most structured cuvée). The Pur Sang is said to be a more hedonistic Sauvignon (often on par with the Silex), but less mineral driven.
That being said the minerality comes through loud and clear on the nose as well as lemon, citrus, white flowers and some fresh hay. On the palate, very structured, rich and creamy with pronounced mineral components, chalky and loads of lemon zest with a hint of tangerine and nectarine. Great acidity with a very clean, pure and an extremely long finish.
The acidity and strong mineral components make this a great pairing for mussels, raw clams or oysters as well as other seafood dishes. Also, seems as though this wine might benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring….

Didier Dagueneau was tragically killed on September 17, 2008 when the ultralight plane he was piloting experienced problems during take off and crashed. He was only 52 years young. He had accomplished so much and his wines established a benchmark for sauvignon blanc, yet it seemed as though he was just getting started. He will be missed.

Champagne Bruno Paillard N.P.U. 1995


Sommeravslutning CRU Vinklubben Kåte Rhoner 14.6.2012:

Gylden og kraftig champagne. En markert smak i munnen gir forhåpninger om en lang avslutning, men den tynner litt overraskende ut i munnen. Relativ slank og chardonnay`en dominerer. Grov med masse autolyse og gjæraromaer. Smaksrik, noe uelegant, og ganske forskjellig fra 1996 årgangen som vi hadde på "Champagne of the Year" 2012. 93 poeng.

N.P.U. står for NEC PLUS ULTRA. Dvs. "det siste ord" e.l. Rimelig ambisiøst dette og Bruno Paillard har da også fungert som et friskt pust i Champagne da han lanserte Champagnehuset så sent som i 1981. Champagnen lagres i 10 år før den selges.

Det blir naturlig å sammenligne denne med 1996.

"Champagne of the Year Vinklubben Kåte Rhoner" 2012. Champagnefrokost 12.5.12.
Kandidat nr. 7, medtatt av Øyvind.

"Lys farge, en fantastisk energisk champagne med vitalitet, ungdom og friskhet. 1996 ? Lanson ? Gjærtoner, citrus, smal og uforløst. Bør lagres. Klassisk og stram champagne og flere var på Blanc de Blancs. En veldig karakterfull champis som har en  litt undermoden og grønn karakter. Noe bitter og skråstilt ettersmak. Nedfallsepler. Oh så godt ! Men man må like denne stilen. Ikke alle gjør det. 93,5 poeng i gjennomsnitt. Og den ble nr. 5 av 7. Et utrolig høyt nivå på denne smakingen "

onsdag 6. juni 2012

Chateau Gruaud Larose 1983 vs. 1982




Søsken smaking Bordeaux 1.6.12:

Chateau Gruaud Larose 1982 har tidligere vært "Red Wine of the Year" i Vinklubben Kåte Rhoner, men senere flasker har vel ikke levd opp til de store høyder. Det var derfor spennende å sammenligne den med en, i utgangspunktet, betydelig dårligere årgang: 1983.
Flere synes 1983 var bedre på denne fredagen og det viser jo at slike smakinger er både lærerike og morsomme. For meg hadde Chateau Gruaud Larose 1983 endel undermoden grønn frukt. Typisk for årgangen. Stram, funklende og elegant. Ikke den opulente rike stilen til 1982, men en veldig presis , klar og klassisk flaske rød Bordeaux. Og det ble satt pris på rundt bordet. Den har faktisk helt "motsatt" frukt vs. 1982. Strammere frukt vs. litt varm frukt, slank vs. rik, klar vs. uklar osv. Merkelig at slottet har laget såpass diametrale forskjellige stiler iløpet av 12 mnd. Broadbent har gitt denne *** "lively but drink soon". Jeg ga den 91 poeng.

Dette mente Christer; Top shoulder fill. Ruby, thin garnet rim. Mature nose, tobacco, prunes, fine leather. Roses and violets. Fresh acidity, lovely palate, elegant texture, ripe tannins, good length. This bottle is the best bottle I've had of GL 83, very fine indeed. 93

Og Lars mente dette; Quite tight, but with warm fruit, forest floor. Fine wine but not on par with the 82. (91 pts.)





1982 var veldig tett, opulent og uklar. Jeg lurte på om det var pga. at jeg hadde glemt Stomperud igjen på Oslo S (han måtte stresse og ta toget til Moss), men han hadde jo også med seg 1983 som var ren og klar. Rik og solmoden, opulent, tobakk, veldig "Gruaud" grov, sedertre og kanskje "litt over the top". Men den sjarmerte hele veien. Tror ikke dette var en optimal og ren flaske og tror den fortsatt kan imponere. 94 poeng.

Christer mente dette; top shoulder fill. Slightly cloudy ruby, garnet rim. Tighter nose, needs time to open, licorice, cassis, prunes, leather. Fresh acidity love the texture and structure, intense, all Bordeaux, fantastisk length. Ripe, structured, pure, intense yet subtle somehow. 95

Lars mente dette; A wonderful complex nose; both powerful and elegant at the same time, beef juice, bonfire, dry, perhaps a tad short. Nose a little better than the mouth. There should be better bottles. (93 pts.)

Vi hadde en Chateau Gruaud Larose 1982 på Raumergården 4.10.10: Mørk litt uklar og tett vin. Litt kork i nesen som ikke helt slipper tak i vinen. Tett og litt lukket og jeg lar den stå litt i glasset. Kommer tilbake med den ekstraktrike og dype 82 stilen med intenst modne bær og sigar. Nesten Pauillac i stilen og selv om dette er en rar flaske merker du den intense stilen, en bra syre som fordekkes litt av den voldsomme frukten. Uenighet om dette var en bra flaske. For 10 år siden var GL 82 fantastisk, de siste årene har det vært mye variable flasker Det har nok sin årsak i at prisen har gått betydelig opp og skiftet eiere ofte. 83 poeng.  

Christers notat: “This slightly corked bottle was still a good wine, but lacked most compared to the one in August. Ufortunate”

Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1975 vs. 1976


Søskensmaking Bordeaux 1.6.2012:

Da startet vi med de eldste vinene og begge disse Mouton`ene var fra min kjeller. 1975 er presumtivt den beste årgangen og det kom tydelig fram her. Rød matt farge med vandig kant, freshere  og kraftigere frukt enn 1976, men jeg synes begge flaskene var overraskende gode og vitale. 1976 har egentlig alltid overrasket meg som en god årgang, helt fløyel i munnen, snille tanniner og den lagrer åpenbart bedre enn man kanskje trodde i utgangspunktet. Jeg har bl.a en Chateau Latour 1976 i kjeller`n som må prøves.

1975 har en litt varm tone, mere struktur, mere sedertre og solbær, mere tråder av tanniner enn 76. Saltaktig mineralsk, bør drikkes, tørrer i munnen. Mange rundt bordet tok feil av 1975 vs. 1976.
92 poeng. Broadbent gir denne **** (just) " OK, but unattractive unstable"

Christer; Top shoulder fill. Ruby, brick rim. Cassis, prunes, figs, leather, cigars. Fresh mouthfeel, lovely acidity, high of ripe tannins, fruity palate in a classic style, very long finish. The acidity carries the fruit all the way. Last bottle was fresher and tighter, more fruity, but this one showed nicely as well. Alf would like to taste it again. 94

Lars sier:
  • 1975 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Some vegetal notes, forest floor, beef juice, very dry, a little short. Best with food? (90 pts.)

Morsomt at Christer sier "very long finish" og Lars sier "a little short" ! Alt er relativt mht. lengde !




Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1976 har en lysere farge og tenderer i aroma mot Barolo. Dette preget forsterker seg endel i glasset. Mindre tanniner enn 1975 og den har et tiltalende friskt "saftpreg". En ikke all verdens komplisert struktur, lett tilgjengelig, sjarmerende og enkel. 90 poeng.

Broadbent gir denne kun **. "faded but fragrant boquet, lean pleasant enough, but no more"
Begge flaskende synes jeg var typiske Mouton med sin litt varme og eksotiske lette nese, medium munnfølelse og relativ lang semi-spicy ettersmak.



Christer sier:

Top shoulder fill. Ruby, brick/orange rim. Tobacco, more mature than the 75, prunes, balanced, easygoing, soft. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins soon gone, good length. 89

Lars sier:

1976 Château Mouton Rothschild- France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Some spice, quite evolved, rounded, some complexity. A very likable wine. (92 pts.)

tirsdag 5. juni 2012

Dom Perignon vs La Grande Dame 1990



Søskensmaking Bordeaux 1.6.2012:

Vi begynte med to champagner. Og jeg ble litt skuffet over begge. Dom Perignon 1990 har vært en gjenganger i VinKlubben Kåte Rhoner og den har som oftest vist en god kombinasjon av eleganse og kraft. Etter noen år nå krakkelerer frukten litt og den blir litt aromamessig vinøs og vakler mht. presisjon og eleganse. Fabelaktige bobler og en kremet deilig munnfølelse drar opp, men jeg noterte meg at champagnen har fått et xtra kremet og eiket/vaniljeaktig slør. Ikke noe "cutting edge" champis lenger dette og skuffende. Tatt med av Alf. 91 poeng.

Christer skriver dette: Pale lemon yellow tiny bubbles. Rich nose, brioche, raisins, autolyses, ox apples. Fresh acidity, more focused bottle than most I've had, firmer, fresh, unripe apple finish. Long. 94

Vi hadde jo denne på Domsmakingen hos RR 28.10.11: Begynnende gul farge med en typisk 1990 kraftig fruktbase. Ikke så opulent som 1995. Modne epler, denne drikker vedlig godt allerede ! 95 poeng. 


GK – hint av tørket aprikos, litt sukkerspinn. I munnen har den en fin kompleksitet og modne aromaer. Tar meg ikke til the next level. 93p


Neal Martin, June 2007 - A moderate greeny/gold hue with a mousse, languid rather than lively. The nose is certainly developing a smorgasbord of secondary aromas: hay bales, cut grass, a touch of clear honey and lanolin. The palate is well balanced, perhaps a little low in acidity for my liking, but comes across elegant and harmonious. The mid-palate is more pear, a little grassy perhaps but the finish is more citrus fruits and a faint tang of lanolin and petrol. Drinking perfectly now. Tasted June 2007. Drinking now-2015. 93p


 Perrotti-Brown, Mars 2009: Medium lemon-straw colour. Intensely fragrant nose with aromas of jasmine, cinnamon buttered toast, stewed apples and preserved ginger. Concentrated honey-nut, warm apple tart and spice flavours fill the mouth giving ample flesh to the firm, fine structure. The bubbles are still remarkably frisky and, in harmony with the crisp backbone of acid, make for a relatively youthful, elegant and exquisitely balanced wine. Very long finish. Drink now to 2015. 98p

Man kan ju lure litt på hvorfor ikke et hus som Veuve Cliquoet lager en bedre "Grande Cuvee" enn La Grande Dame. Mes sin beholdning av vin og tilgang på druer burder dette være mulig. La Grande Dame er ofte mere volumøs, aromatisk og mangler spenst og "zip". Når den i tillegg, som her, får aromaer av cascolim og rosiner blir det feil. Uren og melne melne epler om hverandre, overraskende mye gul frukt og dette kan ikke ha vært en optimal flaske. Og flasken ble tatt med av meg ! 88 poeng.

Relativt uenig med Christer her ! Pale lemon yellow, Tiny bubbels. Fresh nose, apples, yeast, some nuts, again fresher than last bottle. Elegant texture, Fresh acidity, elegant mousse. Long lemony finish. 93

Her er hva Lars skriver:

fredag 1. juni 2012

Solaia 1998, Antinori



GF Toscanasmaking 11.5.2012:

Vaniljestang med mye mørke bær. Igjen grove fattanniner og 100% munnfølelse av eik. Men solide tanniner og vinen er relativt fresh. Den beste Solaia`n synes jeg selv om Are syntes denne var "helt jævlig". 88 poeng.