Champagne Roualet-Crochet Blanc de Noir 2008
Enkel frukt, bra syresnert, hul munnfølelse og mangler endel frukt selv i en god årgang. 86 poeng
Champagne Roualet-Crochet Blanc de Blanc 2009
Igjen enkel frukt og den blir enda mere mager i en BdB versjon. Og et dårligere år. 85 poeng
Champagne Ambonnay Le bout du Clos, Jacques Selosse
Degorgert 21.2.2014. Tørr stil, extrem laserskarp syre. Men veldig lite sjarmerende nå. Bør lagres. Flasken burde vært dekantert ? En skjult kompleksitet merkes. 91-93 poeng
Anselme’s purest expression of terroir is of course the famed Substance, a solera created in 1986. By marrying some twenty vintages, he removes vintage variation, allowing the Avize terroir to speak on its own.
His vintage Millésime does the opposite. Because it draws on the same parcels of vines each year, it is able to express, perhaps more than any other wine in Champagne, the character of the year.
As a pair, Brut Initial and Version Originale show the influence of age and terroir. Each is a blend of three vintages of Chardonnay from the same three villages: Avize, Oger and Cramant. Yet, while Initial is a blend of harvests from the mid-2000s from lower slope vines, Originale is made from older vintages and from hillside vines.
Anselme’s Rosé is pure, intensely mineral Chardonnay from a pair of vintages, with a small amount of still Ambonnay Pinot Noir added.
The Relentless Pursuit of Terroir
In the fall of 2010, Anselme made big news when he announced that he’d be releasing a collection of six lieu-dit, or single-vineyard, wines, each promising to be the definitive expression of a noble Champagne village.
His first step was to change the name of Contraste (his solera of Aÿ Pinot Noir) to “La Côte Faron,” acknowledging its single-vineyard origins. Anselme also released “Les Carelles,” a solera of 100% Chardonnay from the village of Le Mesnil.
Subsequently, Anselme will complete this collection with his 100% Pinot Noir cuvées “Sous le Mont” and “Le Bout du Clos”—from Mareuil and from Ambonnay, respectively. And for his 100% Chardonnay cuvées, Anselme will release “Les Chantereines” and “Chemin de Châlons” from Avize and from Cramant, respectively.
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