torsdag 31. mai 2012

Castello Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Riserva 1997, Fonterutoli

GF Toskanasmaking 11.5.2012:

Innslag av eple og blåbær i nesen. Cascolim med tørre tretanniner. Kjemisk og vi vurderte denne som en ødelagt flaske. Husker jeg var så imponert av denne da den kom, betyr det at Fonterutoli lager opulente deilige viner som har mye smak, men lite struktur og ikke lagd for lagring ?

Tror nok dette var en dårlig flaske når du ser hva skriver:

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1997: Not a hint of oxidation anywhere. The colour is maturing, still with a lot of red pigment but bricking a little at the rim, much darker at the core. And the nose is just delightful, full of sweet and leathery fruit spiced with elements of cloves, stewed black cherry and custard powder. The latter will no doubt raise an eyebrow or two, but it is a very typical aroma I find in Chianti from time to time. A very supple and gently composed palate, immediately showing great substance and texture through the midpalate, with smoky and leathery fruit well framed by robust acidity, a very flattering texture and a good vein of resolving tannins. There is still a good sense of extract here too, a tangible flesh to the wine, giving it a full, flattering and handsome although very dry style which I adore. And it is long too, very long indeed. What a joy - I am so glad I held back before reporting in order to try a truly representative bottle of this quite delicious wine.  18.5/20 (April 2010)
Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1997: This wine takes a little time to open out and reveal where it really is right now, but it is certainly worth the wait. The colour is red-black, with a dusky maturing hue. It initially has a little volatility, but this blows off to reveal notes of custard - a Sangiovese trait - and dark fruits with a rather meaty, furry, savage-styled fruit. This fruit carried through onto the palate where it has a lovely presence, as the structure builds in grip, showing firm tannins on the midpalate. It has a broadness, but with the freshness of redcurrants, plums and cherries. There is a supple character and a well integrated composition. Although it is perhaps a touch brawny still, overall this is very nicely integrated and right now is simply delicious for drinking. 18.5+/20 (December 2007)
Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1997: Showing a little more maturity in appearance, and certainly a maturing fruit style on the nose, but with fine complexity. A medley of black cherry, black olive, leather, and a meaty, smoked bacon character act to entice. Good depth, slightly austere at the start, but opening out on the midpalate to reveal plenty of texture and flavour, but always with that appealing bitter cherry structure underneath. Lovely savoury style on the finish, with a lick of tannin. Still needs 1-2 years in the cellar to be fully ready, but excellent nevertheless. 18.5+/20 (May 2007)
Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1997: Still showing a youthful hue at eight years old. Rather restrained nose showing, with a little time, some black pepper, black olives and smoked, spicy meats. Smoothly integrated palate, showing just lovely floral-tinged black olive fruit over a background of gentle, fading tannins. Sappy, with lovely extract, but with good composure. Great length too. This is simply delightful and approachable now, although will be even better in 2-3 years. 18.5+/20 (August 2005)

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