tirsdag 9. oktober 2018

Hvit burgund 2002

Vinmøte Roar 27. september 2018


Chablis Grenouilles Grand Cru 2002, Louis Michel
Lys sauternes farge, hundepels, oksidasjon og dvask syre. Ikke vurdert




Chassagne Montrachet "Les Ruchottes" 2002, Domaine Ramonet
Karakteristisk "grønnskjær ala Ramonet", minty, men moden med noe strågult. Allehånde, rik, mye "power" for en Premier Cru. En vellykket 02 der risiko for premox er stor. 92-94 poeng.





Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru 2002, Domaine Billaud-Simon
Grønn, steinaktig og mineralsk. Slank midje og drikker perfekt nå. Enkel men kompleks ! Perfekt balanse. Østers og tang. Sublim vin. Lars I, Jon og Kim synes denne var veldig bra. 92-95 poeng

Domaine Billaud-Simon in Chablis is comprised of about 42 acres, encompassing four Grands Crus vineyards, including one acre in Les Clos; one acre in Les Preuses; 1.75 acres in Vaudésir; and .44 acre in Les Blanchots. The Domaine also owns four Premiers Crus vineyards, including Montée de Tonnèrre, Mont-de-Milieu, Fourchaume and Vaillons. In addition to its crus wines, Domaine Billaud-Simon makes a Chablis Villages “Tête d’Or”, with grapes harvested exclusively from the estate. 

In 1815, at the end of the Napoleonic wars, Charles Louis Noël Billaud returned home to Chablis and founded Domaine Billaud-Simon. There, thanks to his family’s holdings, he planted the first vines. Then, a little more than a century later in the 1930s, the Domaine’s vineyards were enlarged with the marriage of his descendant Jean Billaud to Renée Simon. 

Located close to the Serein River, Jean Billaud’s son, Bernard, took over the estate until its acquisition by Domaine Faiveley in July 2014. Since then, Domaine Billaud-Simon is managed separately from Domaine Faiveley: It has its own vineyard, winemaking facilities and remains dedicated to uphold the same style of the wines while continually striving to improve their quality. Along with technical improvements in the modern winery, manual grape picking is increasingly being practiced for their Grands Crus and selected Premiers Crus. 

The Chablis wines of Domaine Billaud-Simon exhibit elegance, balance and pure Chardonnay fruit. Delicious when young, they evolve beautifully with some ageing. 

From Stephen Tanzer (Vinous Media): "The biggest story in the sleepy town of Chablis in the past year was the purchase of this estate last summer by François Faiveley, who quickly installed Olivier Bailly as régisseur under the direction of Faiveley family advisor Bernard Hervet and technical director Jérôme Flous, who also serves as technical director at Faiveley's base in Nuits-Saint-Georges. The transaction finally resolved a long-running family squabble as a result of which Bernard Billaud's nephew Samuel Billaud, who had previously made the wines at Billaud-Simon, was forced out of the family domain and set up his own négociant operation. Samuel has retained some of his family estate’s original vineyards as part of the payment for his share of the domain. 

The first crop of wines made by the new regime at Billaud-Simon looks extremely promising, due in in large part to the fact that Faiveley harvested the fruit earlier--with better nerve and natural acidity--than would have been the case here under Bernard Billaud. Acidity levels are in the very healthy 4.8 grams per liter range. The new team bottled the 2013s but did not vinify them. I've been a long-time fan of this estate previously, but quality will no doubt be more consistent under the Faiveley ownership."

Ingen kommentarer:

Legg inn en kommentar