Bør 1cru vinmarken Malconsorts oppgraderes til Grand Cru ? 2008

Smaking Litteraturhuset 16.1.20:

Mathilde Grivot

Årgangen 2008 i rød burgund er ikke vurdert som den beste, men kommer man litt opp i klassifikasjon er det mange gode viner. Vosne Romanèe Les Malconsort 2008 fra Domaine deMontille synes jeg faktisk var bedre enn Christiane Cuveen fra 2006 ! Transparent, elegant, fresh, moden med innslag av jordbær og fat. Bra konsentrasjon og her gir den rustikke 08 karakteren vinen et løft. 93 poeng. 

Vosne Romanèe Les Malconsort 2008 Sylvain Cathiard var en skuffende vin som ikke innfridde forventningene. Mørkere frukt, syrlig og vanskelig i munnen. Har årgangens rustikke urtepreg og mangler "silkeføret" som Cahthiard ofte viser fram. Men vinen har et bakenforliggende godt trøkk og tror den kan bli bedre ved lagring. 91 poeng

Echezeaux 2008 fra Domaine Jean Grivot  viste en typisk stil slik Grivot lagde vin  før 2010. Hard og mørk frukt, steinaktig og kjølig. Ikke grønn, men den rustikke frukten tørrer i finish. Tror ikke denne blir noe spesielt bedre. 90 poeng.

Fra winehog:

 Echezeaux Les Cruots or if you like Echezeaux Les Vigne Blanches is one of the most interesting terroirs in the Flagey-Echezeaux part of Burgundy.

Henry Jayer found this to be one of the best terroirs in the large Echezeaux grand cru – and Jayer apparently made a special Echezeaux cuvée from this vineyard.One of the most important owners of this terroir is today Domaine Jean Grivot … in my view one of the best producers of Echezeaux currently.

The Jayer link

I think it’s important to understand the quality of the vineyard Les Cruots ou Vignes Blanches as this was the core in the best Henri Jayer Echezeaux made and the core of other great Echezeauxs.There is also a link between the Jayer family and the Grivot holdings in Echezeaux as the Grivot plots has in Echezeaux are from the Jayer family.

Jean Grivot, the father of Etienne Grivot, married Yvonne Jayer who is the daughter of Louis Jayer – the cousin of Henri Jayer – and the son of Jean-Francois Jayer and Jeanne Marchand (1870 – 1953). Louis also had a second daughter Jacqueline and she also had some vineyards from the Jayer heritage – and these are also included in the Grivot holdings today.The main part of the Grivot Echezeaux vineyard – cadastre plot 172 and 176 – presumably comes from the Yvonne and Jacqueline Jayer side of the family.

Moving back to Jean-François Jayer – he also had a daughter, Jeanne, who married a Sirugue in Vosne-Romanée and their daughter, Marthe, married a Lamadon in Vosne-Romanée.In 2006 the Lamadon family decided to stop the wine production, and the plots of the Lamadon family was then divided between Louis-Michel Liger-Belair of Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair (metayage), the Lamarche family and the Grivot family, as the Lamadons are cousins of the Grivots.

In Grivots case the cadastre plots 792 and 794 in Les Cruots ou Vignes Blanches and presumably also the plots 590 and 593 in Champs Traversin – as these are side by side with plots rented to Liger-Belair.

The Echezeaux from Domaine Jean Grivot

The Echezeaux from Domaine Jean Grivot is produced from two different climates in Echezeaux – Le Cruots ou Vignes Blanches (8), Champs Traversin (4) – see yellow dots on map below.

The 11 climates on Echézeaux are:

1. Echézeaux du Dessus
2. Les Poulailléres
3. En Orveau
4. Les Champs Traversins
5. Les Rouges du Bas
6. Les Beaux Monts Bas
7. Les Loächausses
8. Les Cruots ou Vigne Blanches
9. Clos St. Denis
10. Les Treux
11. Les Quartieres de Nuits

The total area of the 7 plots is 0.8460 ha – and represents a mix of terroirs from the Echezeaux vineyard (Champs Traversin) and the middle part Cruots ou Vignes Blanches. To be honest the Cruots ou Vignes Blanches is the dominant terroir – and presumably the plots on Champs Traversin has rather little influence on the wine.

Les Cruots ou Vignes Blanches

The plots in Les Cruots are located in the northern part of the vineyard running from top to bottom in the climate. The area of the five plots are 0.7970 ha combined – see map below.

Map: Les Cruots ou Vignes Blanches

The five plots are 172, 176, 792, 794 and finally 599 a small plot located in the top of the vineyard.

Champs Traversin

The plots on Champs Traversin are located in the southern end of the vineyard. The two plots – 590 and 593 are only 0.0490 ha in total – see map below.

Map: Champs Traversin

The wine

The Jean Grivot Echezeaux is in my view one of the very best from the appellation. The Echezeaux and the other wines in the Grivot portfolio have improved significantly since 2007 and even further in 2010 and especially the wines from 2010 and onwards are quite outstanding.