søndag 6. januar 2013

Vinbaren Enoteca Osticcio Osteria i Montalcino

Vinbaren anbefales på det sterkeste, en veldig kyndig eier, OK mat og et bra utvalg av Coche Dury.
Kan man ønske noe mere ?


Petrucci Orcia 2007, Poderi Forte

Lilla, mørk, moderne vin med tydelig ny eik og fattanniner. Litt uintegrerte tanniner, noe kvalmende, men vinen rasper skikkelig i munnen. 86 poeng

Podere Forte - Val d’Orcia, Tuscany
More than a simple vineyard, Podere Forte embodies a “vocation” aimed at building a model of rural development based on environmental, artistic, technological and cultural values, digging for inspiration in the beauty of the Tuscan territory.
Pasquale Forte, the owner of Podere Forte, depicts his property from memory: “There are vineyards, olive groves, a botanical garden, and a Cinta Senese pig farm from which we produce the finest cold cuts. There are sheep, bee hives, chickens, pastures, wheat and cereals fields; there is even a little tartufaia (truffle field) and a small lake with fish - it’s a real paradise.”
Nestled between the Orcia and Montalcino Rivers at the foothills of Monte Amiata, just south of Siena, these fields, vineyards and olive groves extend over the Podere Forte’s 140 hectares, amidst the Val d’Orcia’s rolling hills
The historic domain that once belonged to the Aldobrandeschi, the Salimbeni and the Petrucci families,was re-baptized Podere Forte in 1997, following the ancient Tuscan custom. It is on this land that was practically left to abandon, that Pasquale Forte decided to recreate the genuine and authentic environment of a traditional farm producing organic wine, oil, flour, honey, spices and salumi.
Podere Forte represents the will, the tenacity and the passion of those who believe that this territory and this property deserve to be protected as a true example of the fundamental role traditional agriculture has had in shaping the landscape and the culture of this region of Tuscany.
“We work the fields like they did 2000 years ago, but in the winery, we are 2000 years ahead,” Forte explains, summarizing his vision. Surrounded by some of the highest authorities of Italian oenology, he was able to raise his Tuscan endeavour of Val d’Orcia to the highest levels of the wine world in a little over ten years. This story is one that combines history and fairy tales as the late Luigi Veronelli once put it. The story of men - Lino Forte, Attilio Scienza, Donato Lanati, and Giacomo Bersanetti - that had set themselves the goal of creating vineyards able to produce superb wines out of an ungrateful land.
“Making a great wine is like creating a work of art.You need raw resources, in this case land and nature, but you also need the hand of man, skills, passion and science,” reveals Forte. This is especially true today where it gets increasingly difficult to differentiate wines from one region to the next. “We are trying to bring the territory in your glass” explains the gentleman farmer.
Wine is king at Podere Forte and everything is geared towards quality, following a strict and rigorous approach that combines state of the art technology with ancient savoir-faire. While precise laboratory analysis is conducted at all stages of production, everything is done according to organic and biodynamic principles with soil planted in small experimental parcels carefully selected according to chemical, physical and biological analysis.“We grow Sangiovese with a plant density only the Romans were capable of.We even produce our own organic fertilizers with our own compost” adds Forte.
The results are superior quality grapes that suffer minimum handling to prevent any loss of fragrance and aroma thanks to a five story gravity-flow cellar. Only the top two levels of the building, designed by architect Fabrizio Zambelli, are visible from the outside to optimize the environmental impact on the surrounding landscape. Fermentation occurs in separate wood and tin tanks with carefully selected wine yeasts found on the property.
For Pasquale Forte, a wine bottle is much more than the result of high-technology: “A great wine is music, harmony, happiness and elegance. You know you are dealing with a great wine when the bottle gets finished quickly and you need another one right away,” he explains.
According to Forte, his wines - which have already been getting rave reviews - will only increase in quality since the vineyards are slowly reaching their optimal maturity stage. “The roots of our vines are digging deeper in the soil to extract all the extraordinary energy that stems from this unique place, which in turn we transform into our three coveted red wines: Petruccino, Petrucci e Guardiavigna.”
He concludes adding that the last few vintages were some of Podere Forte’s most significant - the result of a vision based on tremendous care and utmost dedication. In the span of only one decade, these attributes have managed to transform Podere Forte into one of the most prestigious wineries in Tuscany, by transmitting the beauty of the area’s unique landscape through their signature winemaking.
Yet, Forte’s vision goes beyond his winery. The work invested in Podere Forte is only a stepping stone for a greater project involving the whole revitalization of neighbouring Rocca d’Orcia’s medieval village - one of Tuscany’s most beautiful - with only a handful of residents remaining. The restoration is geared on the revival of its historic, cultural and architectural heritage through artistic activities and craftsmanship. The goal is to create a true eco-touristic project of regional influence with the opening of traditional workshops, stores, a wine bar, a luxury restaurant and Relais including a medicinal spa showcasing Podere Forte’s authentic, organic products.

Rosso di Montalcino 2006,  Poggio di Sotto

Intens, rød purpur farge. Typisk 2006 voldsom og uforløst. Grønn og vanskelig. Veldig forskjellig fra f.eks. 2008 som er mere burgunder. 90 poeng

Bourgogne Blanc 2009, Coche Dury

47 Euro. Frisk og relativ smal duft i glasset. Krydret, frisk med allehånde. Citrus, spicy, spenstig og ungt. 
91 poeng. 

Meursault 2009, Coche Dury

119 Euro. Litt fetere nese og betydelig fetere i munnen. Krydret , smør og malt. Dypere fruktbilde, men herlig citrustrøkk. 93 poeng.

Rosso di Montalcino 2008, Poggio di Sotto

En overraskende eldet nese med snev av sødme. Transparent og lys farge. Strammer seg pent inn i munnen. Men litt vanskelig nå kanskje. Bør lagres litt før konsum ? Noe røkt, snev av lakris og en spennende nese. Fløtepus i munnen etter en tid. 91 poeng.

Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Schiena d`Asino 2006, Mastrojanni

Varm og rå vin. Stikkende syre, vinen prøver litt for hardt. For mange uharmoniske kanter. Intens 06 stil, men denne hadde kommet relativt langt allerede på en måte. Svir i munnen. 89 poeng.

Volnay 2009, Coche Dury

En veldig karikert oversjøisk Pinot-karakter. Drops, bringebær, mye smak. Mangler eleganse. Lilla og intens. Mangler Volnay karakter. Men 2009 blir ferskt. CD lager nok bedre hvitvin.....88 poeng.

Brunello di Montalcino 1979, S. Fillippo

Piemonteaktig gammel vin.. Salt, mørk frukt i nesa, i munnen mild og uten rosin. Som man kanskje forventet. Melkeaktig uten spisse kanter. Kaffe og lakris. Balanserer godt mellom frisk og eldet frukt. 92-95 poeng.

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