Malconsorts vs. Ezecheaux

Malconsorts smaking Litteraturhuset 16. januar 2020

Vosne-Romanèe Aux Malconsorts 2012, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
Transparent i uttrykket, frisk, intens og lang ettersmak. 5-spice vosne-krydder, dyp, sexy og elegant. Fet i munnen, samtidig slank og florlett. Særdeles flott vin som kan lagres i mange år. En av smakingens beste viner. 96 poeng

Fra bbr:

Sylvain Cathiard’s grandfather, a foundling from Savoie, came to Burgundy and found work with Domaine de la Romanée Conti (DRC) and Lamarche, subsequently buying a few parcels of vineyards for himself. His son André Cathiard began to bottle some of the crop.

In due course Sylvain began work with his father but then separated to start his own small domaine, until on his father’s retirement in 1995, Sylvain could take back the family vineyards on a renting agreement. He has now been joined by his son Sébastien, and a spacious new cellar is currently under construction.

The Cathiards have 5.5 hectares of vineyards in Vosne-Romanée, Nuits-St-Georges and Chambolle-Musigny, including tiny holdings in Clos de Vougeot and Romanée-St-Vivant. A recent addition (from 2006) to the range is the Nuits-St-Georges Aux Thorey.

This is not a complicated domaine: the vines are looked after meticulously with the fruit being sorted on a table de tri and destalked. After fermentation the wines go into barrel, with 50 per cent new oak for the village wines and 100 per cent for premier cru and above. Most of the barrels come from one cooper, Rémond, albeit with the wood sourced from different forests. The wines in their youth have an exceptional energy and purity of fruit.


                                        

Vosne-Romanèe Echezeaux 2012, Bouchard Père & Fils
Skjemmende sulfitt på nesa som whiffer av. Enkel og et noe mer kommersielt preg i munnen enn forrige vin. Men vinen er i god balanse med god bærkvalitet. Kanskje litt hardt vinifisert (eller eika) og vinen trenger nok ytterligere lagring. Et liten streng av glycerolsødme runder den pent av i munnen. 93 poeng

Vosne-Romanèe Echezeaux Grand Cru 2012, Domaine Jean Grivot
Jordbær, spicy julekake, skogsbunn og blomstereng. Åpenbart ett hakk opp fra tidligere smakte Grivot-viner laget før 2010. Elegant og balansert. Kan fremdeles lagres. 95 poeng.