Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2007

Vinmøte Kim 24.8.17

Bonnes Mares 2007, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue
Vanskelig syre i munnen, Bonnes Mares kan være vanskelig å plassere som en Grand Cru. Fragrant og transparent, lett i munnen og på grensen til vegetal. Litt for spinkel frukt og den dårligste av de tre. Elegant, men vinen er forferdelig overpriset. 90 poeng


Bonnes Mares 2007, Jacques Frederic Mugnier
Mørkere frukt, touch av "bitterness" , mere krydder og tyngre Grand Cru kvalitet. Vinen blir bedre i glasset, men i forhold til vin mark og produsent fremstår vinen som skuffende. Viser at årgangen ikke er all verden. Jon var nede på 89 poeng, mens vi andre var på 91 poeng.


Bonnes Mares 2007, Domaine G. Roumier
Transparent, tobakk og lær. Mer trøkk i frukten og den beste Bonnes Mares i rekka. Tydelig Grand Cru og den enste som kan bli bedre ved lagring. 92 poeng

Clive Coates: 

The principal producers of Bonnes Mares are as follows: De Vogüé, 2.70 ha; Drouhin Laroze,1.49 ha; Georges Roumier, 1.39 ha; Bart, 1.03 ha; Robert Groffier, 0.97 ha; Fougeray de Beauclair, 0.92 ha (this will revert back to Bruno Clair in 2016); Vougeraie, 0.70 ha; Bruno Clair, 0.63 ha; Dujac, 0.59 ha; Naigeon, 0.50 ha; Peraizeau, 0.39 ha; J.F.Mugnier, 0.34 ha; Newman, 0.33 ha; Georges Lignier, 0.29 ha; Hervé Roumier, 0.29 ha; Louis Jadot, 0.27 ha; Auvenay, 0.26 ha; Bouchard Père et Fils, 0.24 ha; Joseph Drouhin, 0.23 ha; Arlaud, 0.20 ha; Hudelot-Baillet, 0.13 ha; Charlopin-Parizot, 0.12ha.

At the northern end of Chambolle-Musigny, partly over-lapping into Morey-Saint-Denis, lies Bonnes Mares, as far away as it could be, and yet remain within the same commune, from Le Musigny, which lies at the southern end. The most logical derivation of the name is that it is a corruption of Bonnes Mères, good women, a reference to the nuns of Notre Dame de Tart, a religious establishment which flourished in the middle ages, and which gave their name to the Clos which lies next door in the commune of Morey-Saint-Denis. Jasper Morris suggests two alternatives: marer is a word for cultivate. According to Jacques Lardière of Maison Jadot, Jasper also adds: Mares is an old French word for fairies. Personally I find this more than a little fanciful.

It is a largish vineyard by Burgundian standards, and possesses, as you can see, a large number of owners. The 1.52 ha which lies in Morey are owned by the Clair family, and most of this is leased until 2016 to the Fougeray de Beauclair domaine, after which the parcel will revert to Bruno Clair, making him the second largest domaine in the climat. Before the Clair-Daü estate was split in 1985 what is now owned by the Domaine Bart was also part of Clair-Daü. They were then the most important proprietors.

The vineyard lies at 270 - 300 metres above sea level and consists of two quite different types of soil. Above a diagonal line which runs from the top at the Morey end to the bottom at the southern end lies a while marl, rich in fossilized oysters: terres blanches. This makes up most of the climat. Below it the soil is red-brown colour; heavier and with more clay: terres rouges. The upper slopes, as elsewhere, contain very little earth and are largely broken up limestone rock. At the bottom the depth can be as much as 70 cms deep.

This leads to a difference in the wines. At the northern end – mainly terres rouges - the wines tend to be bigger, more vigorous, muscular, more masculine: denser and more closed-in, even a little four square.

The terres blanches produces a more civilised wine. 'More spiritual', says Christophe Roumier. Like others he will make them separately and then blend the two together. The resulting wine is greater than the sum of the parts.

In the best hands, like his, we have a wine which not only has the power and the dimension, but also the elegance and depth of great Burgundy. Silk and grace: no. That is Musigny. But volume, velvet and vigour. Bonnes Mares can be very fine indeed.

Valtellina Superiore Ris. Grumello B. Consiglio 2007, A.R. Pepe
Korket ved åpning og blir ikke bedre etter 3t. i karaffel. Fikk retur på VP. Ikke vurdert.