Puligny Montrachet smaking del II

Restaurant Stock  28. august 2017

Puligny Montrachet Champ Gains 2013, Pierre Yves Colin Morey

Sting av eddik, den slanke og syrerike stilen er nok typisk for produsenten. Men nesen var ikke bra og nesten på grensen til flaskefeil. Men årgangen kan også ha spilt inn endel anemisk frukt. 88 poeng

"Colin does no battonage and makes it clear that he doesn't mind releasing wines that are “strict at the beginning”. “The temperature of the cellar descends to about 7 Celsius in winter, and that has almost the same effect on the wines as an acidification.” Steve Tanzer

Tom H: Rett etter åpning er dette knytt og lukket, og det åpner aldri riktig opp den tiden vi har flasken. Men med luft og temperatur lokkes det frem grapefrukt og koriandefrø, litt bitterhet som i det hvite i mandarinskallet henger igjen på tunga. Syrenivået er mildt sagt intens, så opplevelsen er som å drikke konsentrert grapejuice med hodet inne i en stor bukett med sommerblomster. Dette tror jeg kommer til å bli fantastisk, men 3-5 år på langs tror jeg er minimum. Jeg har dog aldri opplevd fersk PYCM så syrefrisk som dette, og jeg tviler på at denne har gjennomgått fullstendig malo.

Puligny Montrachet Champ Gains 2010, Francois Carillon

Rikere stil og nesten en åpenbaring vs. den forrige vinen. Rik og moden 2010 frukt. En veldig utviklet nese og en av de bedre Carillon`ene smakt. Men 2010 er nok en årgang som blir raskere moden enn forventet. 90 poeng

Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres 2014, Domaine Leflaive

Elegant nese. Diam kork. Lett bålrøyk på nesa og en litt overraskende hul frukt i munnen. Tror dette blir bedre ved ytterligere lagring. 2014 er en god årgang for Lefaive. 91 poeng

Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres 2011, Pierre Yves Colin Morey

Svovel, kruttrøyk, slank og en udefinert kjemikomponent. Årgang og produsent blir litt mye syre. Fremstår nå nesten undermoden og grønn. Usikker framtid. 87 poeng

Puligny Montrachet Clavoillon 2010, Domaine Leflaive

Dårlig flaske, strippet for frukt med "fishy nese". Ikke vurdert.

Puligny Montrachet Clavoillon 2011, Domaine Leflaive

Reduktiv og ganske anonym nese, smal munnfølelse med litt grønne elementer. Men stram og frisk og bør lagres ? 90 poeng

Puligny Montrachet Clavoillon 2012, Domaine Leflaive

Moden og superklassisk utviklet Lefaive. Nesa er rik, i munnen overraskende mineralsk og stram. En super vin og denne vil fortsatt utvikle seg positivt. 93 poeng

Puligny Montrachet Clavoillon 2013, Domaine Leflaive

Ung vin. Sommerblomster og flørtende på nesa. Mangler nok litt tyngde i munnen. På den lette siden. 91 poeng

Puligny Montrachet Le Cailleret  2013, Domaine de Montille

Ren, ukomplisert og slank. Elegant med innslag av appelsinzest og mynte. God vin, men mangler en xtra dimensjon. 90 poeng

Puligny Montrachet Le Cailleret  2014, Domaine Pousse d`Or

Igjen litt reduktiv på nesa, vanskelig i munnen, litt brutalt vinmakeri på en elegant vinmark. En av de svakeste flaskene på smakingen som ikke var ødelagt. 87 poeng

Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles  2007, Domaine Leflaive

Brun frukt, Kongen av Danmark, møllkuler,epleskrott. Ikke vurdert.

Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles  2011, Domaine Leflaive

Frisk og ren citrus. Stram og årgangen fremhever vinmarkens mineralske stil. Igjen er 2011 litt grønn og undermoden, men her går det greit. 92 poeng

Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles  2012, Domaine Leflaive

Ganske lik  2011, men mere "fleskete" i frukten. Bør lagres. 93 poeng

Chateau Margaux & Chateau Latour 1993

Vinmøte Kim 24. august 2017

Chateau Margaux 1993

God dybde med rødbærsfrukt. Merkbar lett årgang. Ubalansert med endel syre som stikker ut. Mangler harmoni. Drikk opp. 90 poeng

Chateau Latour 1993

Floral nese med mørkere frukt. Denne mangler også eleganse. Et fast midtparti redder den. 91 poeng

Riesling Brand Vendage Tardive 1989, Domaine Zind Humbrecht

Kjøpt på VP Klingenbeg i sin tid. Nå nesten tørr med litt bitter kant. Bør drikkes. 89 poeng

Riesling Cuvèe Frèdèric Emile SGN 1983, Trimbach

Honning, tydelig riesling, botrytis, skifer. Spàtlese sødme nå, god mineralitet. Elegant ostevin. 92 poeng.

Brunello di Montalcino 2006

Vinmøte Kim 24.8.17

Brunello di Montalcino 2006, Poggio di Sotto
Saftig og fragrant. En super elegant Brunello. Burgundersk stil, rik og en rå balanse. Drikker godt nå, men kan fortsatt lagres. Lang ettersmak. En fantastisk vin. Roar var ikke så imponert. 95 poeng

Brunello di Montalcino "La Cerbaiola" 2006, Salvioni
Mørkere vin og vinen bør fortsatt lagres. Noe grønn og umoden i uttrykket. Ganske hardt eika og tydelig mere rustikk enn Poggio di Sotto. Noe alkostikk, rik frukt og en solid vin. 94 poeng.

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Pian di Conte 2006, Talenti
Mørk granatrød matt farge. Mørk kjerne. Solide tanniner og vinen trenger ytterligere lagring. Solmoden frukt, vinen gløder ivrig, men den mangler endel eleganse iforhold til de andre to. Og spørsmålet dukker opp: er det nødvendig med Riserva kvalitet av Brunello ? 92 poeng.

Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2007

Vinmøte Kim 24.8.17

Bonnes Mares 2007, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue
Vanskelig syre i munnen, Bonnes Mares kan være vanskelig å plassere som en Grand Cru. Fragrant og transparent, lett i munnen og på grensen til vegetal. Litt for spinkel frukt og den dårligste av de tre. Elegant, men vinen er forferdelig overpriset. 90 poeng


Bonnes Mares 2007, Jacques Frederic Mugnier
Mørkere frukt, touch av "bitterness" , mere krydder og tyngre Grand Cru kvalitet. Vinen blir bedre i glasset, men i forhold til vin mark og produsent fremstår vinen som skuffende. Viser at årgangen ikke er all verden. Jon var nede på 89 poeng, mens vi andre var på 91 poeng.


Bonnes Mares 2007, Domaine G. Roumier
Transparent, tobakk og lær. Mer trøkk i frukten og den beste Bonnes Mares i rekka. Tydelig Grand Cru og den enste som kan bli bedre ved lagring. 92 poeng

Clive Coates: 

The principal producers of Bonnes Mares are as follows: De Vogüé, 2.70 ha; Drouhin Laroze,1.49 ha; Georges Roumier, 1.39 ha; Bart, 1.03 ha; Robert Groffier, 0.97 ha; Fougeray de Beauclair, 0.92 ha (this will revert back to Bruno Clair in 2016); Vougeraie, 0.70 ha; Bruno Clair, 0.63 ha; Dujac, 0.59 ha; Naigeon, 0.50 ha; Peraizeau, 0.39 ha; J.F.Mugnier, 0.34 ha; Newman, 0.33 ha; Georges Lignier, 0.29 ha; Hervé Roumier, 0.29 ha; Louis Jadot, 0.27 ha; Auvenay, 0.26 ha; Bouchard Père et Fils, 0.24 ha; Joseph Drouhin, 0.23 ha; Arlaud, 0.20 ha; Hudelot-Baillet, 0.13 ha; Charlopin-Parizot, 0.12ha.

At the northern end of Chambolle-Musigny, partly over-lapping into Morey-Saint-Denis, lies Bonnes Mares, as far away as it could be, and yet remain within the same commune, from Le Musigny, which lies at the southern end. The most logical derivation of the name is that it is a corruption of Bonnes Mères, good women, a reference to the nuns of Notre Dame de Tart, a religious establishment which flourished in the middle ages, and which gave their name to the Clos which lies next door in the commune of Morey-Saint-Denis. Jasper Morris suggests two alternatives: marer is a word for cultivate. According to Jacques Lardière of Maison Jadot, Jasper also adds: Mares is an old French word for fairies. Personally I find this more than a little fanciful.

It is a largish vineyard by Burgundian standards, and possesses, as you can see, a large number of owners. The 1.52 ha which lies in Morey are owned by the Clair family, and most of this is leased until 2016 to the Fougeray de Beauclair domaine, after which the parcel will revert to Bruno Clair, making him the second largest domaine in the climat. Before the Clair-Daü estate was split in 1985 what is now owned by the Domaine Bart was also part of Clair-Daü. They were then the most important proprietors.

The vineyard lies at 270 - 300 metres above sea level and consists of two quite different types of soil. Above a diagonal line which runs from the top at the Morey end to the bottom at the southern end lies a while marl, rich in fossilized oysters: terres blanches. This makes up most of the climat. Below it the soil is red-brown colour; heavier and with more clay: terres rouges. The upper slopes, as elsewhere, contain very little earth and are largely broken up limestone rock. At the bottom the depth can be as much as 70 cms deep.

This leads to a difference in the wines. At the northern end – mainly terres rouges - the wines tend to be bigger, more vigorous, muscular, more masculine: denser and more closed-in, even a little four square.

The terres blanches produces a more civilised wine. 'More spiritual', says Christophe Roumier. Like others he will make them separately and then blend the two together. The resulting wine is greater than the sum of the parts.

In the best hands, like his, we have a wine which not only has the power and the dimension, but also the elegance and depth of great Burgundy. Silk and grace: no. That is Musigny. But volume, velvet and vigour. Bonnes Mares can be very fine indeed.

Valtellina Superiore Ris. Grumello B. Consiglio 2007, A.R. Pepe
Korket ved åpning og blir ikke bedre etter 3t. i karaffel. Fikk retur på VP. Ikke vurdert.

Bollinger RD 1996

Vinmøte Kim 24.8.17

Champagne Billecart Salmon Brut 1999
Mangler endel kompleksitet, enkel frukt, men frisk og grei aperitif. 88 poeng

Champagne Bollinger RD Brut 1996
Oksidativ, eple, oksidert og ikke en god flaske. Ikke vurdert.

Champagne Deutz Blanc de Blancs Brut 1989
Overraskende frisk for årgangen. Fremdeles god spenst og friskhet. God flaske. 93 poeng

Riesling Kirchspiel 2012, Keller 
Endel utviklet, virker litt grønn og undermoden. Klassisk stil, men produsenten pleier å levere på et høyere nivå. Vinen fikk bra vurdering for et  par år siden og usikker på om dette er en optimal flaske. 88 poeng.

Keller Kirchspiel 2012 / mai 2014 / Gunnar Wingård:

Mulig GG-ene bør ligge til 2020, men fy så godt dette er nå... Intens på alle måter; funklende gyllengul, intens nese med et helt fruktfat av syrlige sitrusfrukter, steinfrukter, grønne og gule epler og et lite streif av banan, samt noe litt 'spicy' som lurer i bakgrunnen. Veldig ren nese, ikke en eneste unote. Og smaken... Wow! Syren sparker inn umiddelbart og får et lite forsprang før frukten kommer seilende opp på siden. Stor fylde, ren konsentrert fruktighet og ekstremt lang ettersmak preget av grapefruktaktig syre som henger igjen i godt over et minutt. Ikke langt unna Morstein. Vi slår til med 94 p.

2012 Weingut Keller Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Großes Gewächs - Gard Kverneland mars 2014

rett fra flasken; relativt stum, men tar noe frukt på nesen som går mot grønne epler og sitronskall. Mineralsk i form av knust skifer. I munnen viser vinen først og fremst en energisk syre og utstrakt grad av mineraler i finish. Bra konsentrasjon. Frukt mot sitrondrops. En lineær og slank vin med punch! Med en time dekantering kommer hvite blomster på nesen og moden sitron på både nese og på smak. Passer vinens ekstreme syre og mineraler godt. 94p. En 1/2 full flaske spares til i morgen for å se hvordan denne gjør seg med mer luft....

Riesling Scharzhof 2013, Egon Mûller 

Ekstrem syre, stikkende eddik i nesa. Ikke vurdert. Men de andre synes den kunne passere.

Riesling Schlossberg, Cuvèe St. Catharine 2014, Domaine Weinbach 

Ikke så moden frukt som tidligere flasker. Rik og typisk Alsace-vin. God årgang. 89 poeng.

BY IAN D’AGATA | NOVEMBER 1, 2016

Domaine Weinbach is arguably one of the world’s greatest wine estates. Over the years, the Faller family has produced myriad fantastic wines that are sought by wine lovers and collectors everywhere. That consistent track record has shed light on Alsace’s many delicious, age-worthy and memorable white wines. Quality is so high across the board at Weinbach that it is hard to choose a single “best” wine as the subject of a vertical tasting.

LEFT: the Faller family when Catherine (on the right) and Laurence (left) were children. RIGHT:  Catherine, Colette and Laurence

An argument could be made that one of the estate’s many incredibly delicious Sélection de Grains Nobles or a Gewürztraminer (a variety with which this estate has always had a uniquely magical touch) might have been even more apt choices for a vertical tasting than the Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine. Nevertheless, Riesling seemed the right choice, as Domaine Weinbach has the good fortune of sitting just below the majestic Schlossberg, one of the greatest and most historic vineyards in the world.

The Clos des Capucins

Domaine Weinbach is located in the heart of Alsace’s fairly tale-like wine country, easily one of the most beautiful places anywhere in the world. “Weinbach” is the name of a small stream that runs through the property; and believe it or not, it’s a German word that actually means “ river of wine”, only reinforcing the notion that great wine runs freely at this address. I can’t help but think there could hardly have been a better choice for that little stream’s name. The lovely country villa, built in the typical Alsatian style, doubles as both family home and winery, and was built in 1621. The building itself is known as the Clos des Capucins as it served as a Capucin monastery for centuries and is surrounded by vineyards that were tended to by monks as far back as the 9th century. With the advent of the French Revolution, the Clos des Capucins (like many other religious domaines) was deemed a property of the state and sold. The Faller brothers bought the Clos des Capucins in 1898. It has remained in the hands of the family since then.

In the years and decades that followed World War II, Théo Faller, one of the great men of Alsace wine, grew the estate’s holdings and improved the quality of the wines. Faller passed away in 1979, but his work was carried on admirably by his wife Colette, and her two daughters, Catherine (who oversees sales and marketing) and Laurence (universally regarded during her lifetime as one of the world’s very best winemakers.) Through a combination of unique talent, charm and sheer hard work, these three women turned the estate’s wines into must-haves for consumers and collectors not just in France but around the world. Always driven to push the envelope and achieve the best, Weinbach was one of the first estates in Alsace to adopt biodynamic farming practices in the late 1980s, long before they became a generalized fad or a widely accepted  As of 2005, the entire property is farmed biodynamically. Over the years, the three ladies also invested heavily in prime vineyard sites near the estate. Domaine Weinbach now owns twenty-four hectares in very high quality lieux-dits (the Altenbourg) and extremely famous grand crus such as the Schlossberg, the Markrain, the Furstentum and the Mambourg. Sadly, both Laurence and Colette Faller passed away unexpectedly in 2015. Today, Catherine Faller and her son, Théo, run the estate.

Laurence, Colette. Catherine and a young Thèo Faller

The Schlossberg

Schlossberg has been renowned for the quality of its wines since the 15th century. Not surprisingly, Schlossberg was the first Alsatian vineyard site to be recognized as a grand cru when Alsace began officially classifying vineyard sites in 1975. As far back as 1928, the inhabitants of the two towns associated with this grand cru, Kaysersberg and Kientzheim, had agreed on qualitative production guidelines that were in place long before the official grand cru designations came to be. Schlossberg’s name derives from the nearly 900 year old castle situated on the cru’s western edge (schloss means castle in German). Like all other Alsace grand crus, Schlossberg is characterized by a dominant soil type: granite, or more precisely, granite and magmatic subsoil/bedrock and sandy/decomposed granite topsoil that is shallower at the top of the hill (roughly 360 meters (1,181 feet) above sea level) and deeper towards the bottom (230 meters (755 feet) above sea level). The topsoil is rich in potassium, magnesium and phosphorus, much moreso than the majority of other Alsatian grand crus. It is this richness and diversity of these compounds that is believed to account for at least some of the specific, highly mineral characteristics of Schlossberg wines. Extremely steep and sundrenched, the Schlossberg (much like the Rangen and other renowned Alsace sites) requires terracing for pickers to be able to work the land. The vineyard encompasses southwest,due south and southeast exposures and is the westernmost section of an uninterrupted, mainly south-facing slope that runs for 4.8km (roughly 3 miles) from Kayserberg to Bennwihr and that also includes the Schlossberg, Furstentum, Mambourg and Marckrain.grand crus.

The Schlossberg vineyard

Unfortunately, Schlossberg is also a very large grand cru (in fact, at 80 hectares or 198 acres, it is Alsace’s largest) so there are substantial differences between the wines made from grapes grown within its boundaries. In fact, the Schlossberg isn’t even one site, but is subdivided into two non-contiguous sections, separated by a rift. The smaller, northern section (historically referred to as the Kirrenbourg) is one-tenth the size of the main section and lies directly above the town of Kayserberg, but in fact the two share the same soil type and exposure.

The Weinbach Schlossberg Wines

The Fallers have always been keenly aware of how different Schlossberg wines can be depending on exactly where, within the cru, the grapes are sourced. For this reason, the estate produces a number of different Schlossberg Rieslings. The wine made from vines growing on the nutrient-poor soils in the top section of the hill is called Riesling Schlossberg, while the wine made from the vines growing on the richer soils close to the bottom of the slope is known as the Riesling Cuvée Ste. Catherine (without the “Schlossberg”). In 1991, the estate began producing a third Riesling from the Schlossberg, the Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine (the subject of this vertical), made from the site’s oldest vines (roughly sixty years old) and planted mid-slope, in what is the heart and clearly the best part of the Schlossberg. In a more accurate, less politically-motivated grand cru classification (say what you will, but a grand cru eighty hectares large is pure nonsense), it is precisely this section of the Schlossberg that should have been limited to grand cru status, as it never suffers from excessive humidity or water stress (the latter can be a major problem in drought years given the Schlossberg’s exceptionally good drainage). Last but not least, in exceptional years (and also in very typical Alsace style where wine producers are incredibly driven to highlight even the slightest differences in soils or microclimates in each wine they make), the estate makes yet another version of Schlossberg Riesling, the Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine L’Inédit, but this is almost always an off-dry, even sweet, wine made from the super-ripest grapes from the mid-slope.

In my view, the Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine is Domaine Weinbach’s greatest dry Riesling. Like all great Riesling wines born on granite soils, it is large on entry with typical sweet herb and mineral-flinty notes, but finishes very long and precise (it is the length and precision in these wines that distinguishes the great granite sites from the merely good ones). What then separates the Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine from all other Schlossberg wines, elevating it to a non-pareil quality level, is a penetrating, laser-like acidity and dainty lemony-floral quality contributing a light-on-its-feet personality that is highly unique and immediately recognizable when tasting blind through a series of Schlossberg wines. Last but not least, these wines age splendidly, taking on a stronger flinty mineral character in time, but are practically never overtly petrolly or strongly reminiscent of diesel fuel.