tirsdag 6. desember 2016

Vinoteca Centro Storico


Vinoteca Centro Storico 12.11.16, Serralunga d`Alba


Barbaresco Bernardotti 1978, Guiseppe Mascarello
Ruby briljant farge med en overraskende mørk kjerne. Skuffende buljong og champignon på nesa som heldigvis blir borte etterhvert i glasset. En renere rødbærsfrukt kommer fram med klassiske toner av skogsbunn og varmsmørt tjære på gammelt treverk. Etterhvert en mer kompleks nese med hummus, soyasaus og modne bær. Utvikler seg til en stor vin ! For en utvikling i glasset ! Årgangen holder seg fremdeles godt. Vinmarken ble kjøpt av Ceretto i 1997 og tappes nå under vinmarksnavnet "Bernardot".  93-96 poeng




Barbaresco Sorì Tilden 1981, Gaja
Mørk og typisk farge for produsenten.Tørket frukt, nedfallsløv i en intens og pen nese. Dyp frukt for en mellomårgang dette. Stor nese, semi-kompleks munnfølelse, røykbål og god syrestruktur. Litt volatil finish, og endimensjonal i ettersmak. Men en veldig god vin for årgangen. 92 poeng

Gaja sier dette om årgangen; in 1981, we vinified only 25% of the crop. I remember that we started the harvest at the end of October and by November 3rd we had snow that completely covered the vineyard. We had to wait nine to ten days for the snow to melt. But the grapes were not ripe. Harvest was over by November 15 or 17. But it was so late


Barbaresco Crichet Paje 1978, Roagna
Dette er en av mine favorittviner og 1999 er helt legendarisk. Men denne var dessverre korket og oksidert med søppel og råtne blåskjell og "you name it" ! Liver er urettferdig ...

The name Crichet Pajé comes from the Piemontese dialect. When the Italian State was created, each parcel of land was given an official name.The word Crichet is translated as “top of the small hill”. This is our ultimate location for the cultivation of Nebbiolo. The Nebbiolo grape performs best when it is well exposed as well as sheltered from the strongest winds from the tallest hills; Pajé term refers to the vineyard location.Crichet Pajé is a micro parcel located within the same area, which is particularly rich in white calcareous soil and has our highest content of active limestone. The Paje vineyard is 0.5 Hectare (1.24 Acres) with a unique microclimate and soil which enjoys a view over the Tanaro river valley. The exposition mitigates the cold winters and hot summers. The vineyard is located in the center of the Pajé designated area with additional area facing Southwest.The youngest vines used for this wine are more than 60 years-old with all vines regenerated by using clippings from other vines exclusively located within the same area.In fact, some of the vines have been propagated by using ungrafted vines. The older vines have reached a balance of optimum production even though some plants produce only a single cluster during some years.This wine is born from the experience over many years by Giovanni Roagna. After purchasing the vineyard in 1953, Giovanni spent many years of experimentation in order to seletec this unique terroir. Over the years this wine was aged for as long as it needed in orer to reach maturity and the wine was saved for the family as well as used for important events. In 1978, Alfredo Roagna decided to present Crichet Pajé to the marketplace for the first time. Crichet Pajé requires long aging in large oak barrels and is introduced to the marketplace approximately 10 years after being harvested. Our family believes this is the ultimate expression of our cellar because we value highly complexity and longevity in our wine. We harvest the nebbiolo fruit manually using small crates during the month of Octoberand usually in the morning, once the fruit is perfectly ripe. We make two passes in the vineyard to select the fruit and ensure its’ integrity. Fermentation takes place for ten days and we use exclusively large wood casks thanks to our pied de cute with our indigenous yeasts. We then follow the ancient technique of maceration by splinting the submerged cap which can last for two and a half months (80-90 days).The wine is then aged in neutral oak barrels. The production of bottles is extremely small, in some years we produce fewer than one-thousand bottles. The maximum production is just over two-thousand bottles.



Sassicaia 1982, Tenuta San Guido
Klassisk bordeaux på nesa med kaffe, mokka og cassis. Mørk kjerne med ruby/vandig kant. Sedertre med hult mellomparti og litt tam konsentrasjon. Samler seg i "nedslaget" og blir bredere i munnen. God balanse, fresh i munnen, men noe endimensjonal for en høyere poengsum. 93 poeng.






Barbaresco 1978, Albino Rocca
Klassisk, ruby-granatrød, blank i konsistensen med nype, skogsbunn og våt ullsokk. Lett volatil, utviklet, bra syre, elegant stil og en smule nervøs. Men årgangen  hjelper den nok litt. 91 poeng.

Angelo Rocca døde i en flystyrt i 2012. Vi møtte en av døtrene Daniela på restauranten !







Barolo Otin Fiorin Pie Franco 2005, Cappellano
Kirsebær, briljant rød, energisk og ren. Gode og solide tanniner. En klassisk og ren nebbenese. Floral, fioler og sursøt. En tilgjengelig årgang, men kan fremdeles ligge. 93 poeng.


Igjen hvit trøffel på alle rettene; også på pannacotta`en !

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