mandag 26. august 2013

Giacomo & Aldo Conterno / Bruno Giacosa 1990


Lørdag kveld 25.5.13:



Barolo 1990, Aldo Conterno

Lys pen farge, elegante jordbær, syrlige kirsebær og alle var ikke i Barolo. Lett munnfølelse og flere trodde dette var Barbarescoen til Bruno Giacosa. Frisk frukt, god syrlighet og vinen viser kjølig frukt. Lang ettersmak, kraftig og vellykket. 91 poeng.






Barolo Cascina Francia 1990, Giacomo Conterno

Mere varm frukt, litt rosin på nesa og antydning til buljong. Anis, trøffel, floral og spennende. Mørk vin i en tydelig mere Barolo stil enn forrige vin. Roar var tidlig på Cascina Francia. Tørrer i munnen, litt trå tanniner som frenstår litt uharmoniske. Kanskje litt skuffende. 93 poeng.

James Suckling sier dette om vinen:
What an incredible nose! Unlike the ’82 the fruit never retreats. Good color. Some complained it was overripe, but for my taste it’s the best wine in the flight. Wine is dense and leather & tobacco accompany the delicious fruit. The first flight would be a foreshadowing of what was to come the rest of the night between the ‘82s & ‘90s


Cascina Francia Vineyard
  • In 1974, Giovanni Conterno purchased the entire 14-hectare Cascina Francia vineyard in Serralunga d'Alba.
  • At the time of purchase, the land was not being used for vines, so the entire vineyard was replanted in 1974.
  • The G. Conterno winery has not used purchased grapes since that time. No G. Conterno Barolo was made in 1975, 1976, or 1977.
  • 1978 was the first vintage in which both Barolos were made exclusively from Cascina Francia grapes, though the vineyard name did not appear on the Barolo until the 1979 vintage and it has never appeared on the label of Monfortino.
  • This blog has a nice story from John Kapon that "Giovanni asked his wife by what means they could consolidate their business. She logically replied that they should purchase their own vines, nurture the vitis vinifera themselves to control quality. He discovered a vineyard whose entire crop was being sold to other growers and its acquisition meant that they gained exclusivity, Mrs. Conterno reasoning that higher quality and prices would yield financial returns."
Monfortino
  • Monfortino is not a vineyard. It is a name invented for their top bottling at some point early in the 20th Century.
  • Since 1974, when they purchased Cascina Francia, it has been made only from this vineyard.
  • The Conternos only make Monfortino when they feel the quality warrants it.
  • Monfortino is sometimes made in vintages that generally don't have a good reputation for Barolo in general, but Monfortino can be surprisingly good in these years. For example, Monfortino was made in 1968, 1969, 1987, 1993, and 2002, all considered mediocre or even poor quality years for Barolo.
  • On the other hand, no Monfortino was made in 1989, arguably the best vintage in Barolo between 1978 and 1996. The reason for this is not entirely clear. Giovanni Conterno has stated that it did not have the requisite balance. I've wondered if that was a euphemism for something worse that happened as the wine was developing. The Cascina Francia vineyard was hit hard by hail early in 1989. Initially, Giovanni said he might make no wine at all in 1989! Eventually, he bottled a Cascina Francia, but at about 30% of his normal total production of Barolo. Thankfully, he did, because it's quite a wonderful bottle of wine. Perhaps not among the best Monfortinos, but among the best Cascina Francia certainly.
  • Another generally good vintage in which no wine was produced at all by G. Conterno is 1986. There was a devastating hail storm that swept through the region. Many vineyards were completely wiped out. Other were untouched. It was actually a pretty good vintage for those that made wine. Giacosa even made a Falletto Riserva.






Barolo Cicala 1990, Aldo Conterno

Lysere vin med innslag av te. Ren stil, kraftigere enn standard Baroloen og tørrer korrekt i munnen. Mye tanniner også her og spørsmålet er om de vil smelte i denne varme årgangen. Balansert vin på den rike siden. Noe uharmonisk pga tanninene. 92 poeng




Barbaresco 1990, Bruno Giacosa 

Klar og briljant farge. En fantastisk bra standard Barbaresco. Kirsebær og full harmoni. Som alltid med Bruno. Legger på seg litt unoter etterhvert med buljong og klassiske tearomaer. Utviklet stil med noe tørre tanniner. 92 poeng

Fra Dn.no:
Unge Bruno Giacosa startet sin arbeidskarriere i 1944. Det var krig og byer ble bombet, deriblant Alba hvor han gikk på kostskole. Faren kom og hentet Bruno, gjemte han i kjelleren ”og der har jeg blitt siden”, har Bruno Giacosa tidligere uttalt. Han hadde et stort ønske om å bidra til familiebedriften, kunnskapstørsten var stor og han ønsket å forstå prosessene som ga de forskjellige resultatene.

 Barbaresco Riserva 1990, Bruno Giacosa 

En mer lukket vin enn standard Barbarescoen. Dypere frukt med overraskende bløte tanniner. Denne tørrer også endel i munnen, den mer intense frukten drar deg til Barolo.  Men samtidig en burgunderaktig eleganse. Vinen bør fortsatt lagres. Snev av kaffe og kanskje noe større kompleksitet enn forrige vin. Alle ble litt overrasket at Red Label ikke skilte seg mere ut vs. standardutgaven. 94 poeng.  

  • "The 1990 Barbaresco Riserva is unique in that it is the only non single-vineyard Red Label Riserva Giacosa has ever made, with the possible exception of the 1961 Barbaresco Riserva (which pre-dates the use of the Red Label). Masses of dark fruit, spices and minerals emerge from this large-scaled, dramatic Barbaresco. The wine remains impressively young, but the balance here is stunning. Readers who own this rare bottling should be thrilled. According to Bruno Giacosa the 1990 Barbaresco Riserva is a blend of the Santo Stefano and Gallina vineyards, both in Neive. The wine certainly shows the power and exuberance of the village, at times reminding me of Barbarescos from Starderi in its expansive, dense personality. This is wonderful juice. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2035." - 96 Pts Antonio Galloni - The Wine Advocate





Barolo Colonnello 1990, Aldo Conterno

Mørk vin med trøkk og tanniner. Maskulin, eksotisk med snev av tikka masala. Ved påfyll mere markert og solid. En tøff vin fremdeles som fortsatt kan lagres. Rik og streng. En typisk Aldovin. Den beste Aldo i rekka. 94 poeng. Begge de to siste viner havnet på 93,75 poeng.

B

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