fredag 14. juni 2013

White Wine of the Year 2013


Riesling Kiedrich Grafenberg 2007, Weingut Robert Weil

Are hadde med seg en Chevalier Montrachet 2005 fra Leflaive, men den var premox. Så da ble det en overraskende god erstatningsvin. Tydelig riesling på nese og en deilig og åpen frukt. Skifer og mineralitet, jasmin med snev av parfyme og "horehus". Alle var ikke på riesling. Fyldig og rik munnfølelse, varme skifertoner. Elegant og en veldig god vin. Viser årgangens kvaliteter. 94 poeng

Utseende: Klar, middels dyp, gulgrønn, fargevaløren indikerer utvikling. Nesa: God intensitet, kjølig fokusert moden frukt med begynnende utvikling, aromaer av gule steinfrukter, floral, jasmin,  grønt urtepreg, krydret, lime, sitron, syltet lime og jordsmonnspreget; steinmineraler; skifer, kompleks og tiltalende nese med moden sunn frukt med begynnende utvikling, fine overtoner og nyanser i vinen. Munnen: Fylde 8, rik smak av gule steinfrukter, fast god fokusert munnfølelse med flott intensitet som løfter frem jordsmonnspreget og friskheten til vinen, konsentrert med lang ettersmak med smak av gule steinfrukter, lime, jordsmonnspreget, tørrer litt ut noe som gir en litt ru munnfølelse i finishen. Vinen viser begynnende utvikling. Det er fin dybde i frukten, samt at vinen oppleves som elegant i munnen. Meget god og drikke nå, men både frukten og friskheten gir et tydelig signal om at denne vinen har ennå lenge igjen. Prøver derfor å vente til vinen er 10 år med å åpne neste flaske.

Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles 1cru 2005, Domaine Henri Boillot

Kjølig, allehånde, rik, mye smak. En deilig vin. Noe grønn, undermoden, noen var på Chassagne. Are mente det ikke var nok frukt igjen. Lang ettersmak og en klassisk hvit burgunder.Litt skallmaserasjon i smaken. Spiss og presis. Snev av citrus, tørrer litt ut i finish. Noe skrinn og endel uenighet mht. frukt/ikke frukt.
Knut hadde med denne. 94 poeng.

Maison Henri Bolliot is a benchmark producer of estate and négociant wines that are outstanding examples of some of Burgundy’s most renowned growing areas. From his village Meursaults to his Le Montrachet, Boillot’s wines are intense, structured, linear and ageworthy. Farming in Burgundy since 1855, Henri is the 5th generation to be a vigneron in the Cote d’Or. Dedicated and quality-driven, after working at the family estate for more than 10 years, Henri quit in 1984 to launch his own negociant business. He branched off in another direction stylistically, abandoning the light and delicate house style of his predecessors for more concentrated and powerful Pinots and Chardonnays. His tireless efforts were soon recognized with great acclaim by the press, and after sufficiently impressing his grandfather, Jean Boillot, Henri rejoined the estate, eventually buying out his brothers and sisters in 2005. He quickly changed the name of the winery from Domaine Jean Boillot to Domaine Henri Boillot to eliminate confusion with his brother’s estate, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot. However, Henri seems amused enough by this confusion that he has continued to market his negociant wines under the Maison Henri Boillot label, thus creating two lines of wines.
Today, Domaine Henri Boillot consists of 14 hectares evenly split between white (mainly Premier Crus in Meursault and Puligny where he holds a monopole in the four hectares of Clos de la Mouchere) and red (several Premier Crus in Savigny, Beaune, and Volnay). Like most top producers, Boillot is fanatical about farming. He avoids insecticides and herbicides, preferring sustainable farming techniques to preserve the integrity of the soil. Heavily pruned in the spring to ensure low yields, the fruit of his vines is harvested as late as possible to ensure maximum phenolic maturity. White grapes are gently crushed to avoid bitterness, and the must is rapidly cooled to 8 degrees centigrade. Fermentation is done in 350-liter barrels (larger than the classic French barrique) to retain freshness and minerality. Malolactic fermentation complete, the wines are bottled after 18 months in barrel. Entirely hand harvested, red grapes must pass through two rounds on the sorting table to ensure that only perfect berries make the cut. After destemming, the must is cold soaked prior to fermentation. During a relatively long fermentation (up to 30 days), the skins are regularly punched down to extract maximum flavor and color. The Pinots are aged in barriques for 18 months and bottled unfined and unfiltered.
The wines of Maison Henri Boillot are made in the exact same way as the Domaine bottlings. Every Premier and Grand Cru comes from a single vineyard with a single owner to preserve the authenticity of the site. With the help of his son Guillaume who came on board in 2006 after completing his degree, Henri oversees all work in the vineyard throughout the growing season. The wines of Maison Henri Boillot are produced in a cellar in Meursault while the domaine wines are made in Volnay

Le Montrachet 2006, Vincent Girardin

Grønnskjær, smørkaramell, litt mye alkohol. Tydelig Grand Cru. Rik og deilig vin. Vinen står som en påle i glasset. Are snakket om påfuglfjær igjen... Bør lagres. Snev av linoleum og white spirit sier Øyvind. Lang ettersmak. Roar ga denne 98 poeng. Fellesscore 95 poeng. Medtatt av Kim.

Chassagne Montrachet Boudriotte 1999, Domaine Ramonet

En frisk og karakterfull vin. Gul i fargen og i en moden stil. Parfymert Chanel no. 5 nese. Jasmin, sommerblomster, samtidig mineralitet og skjellsand. Chablis i munnen. Sjøaromaer. Blir mere mineralsk i glasset. Noe søtlig ettersmak. Deilig å drikke moden hvit burgund som ikke er premox. 91 poeng.

Domaine Ramonet is a force of personality, so much so that it is rarely referred to as anything other than Ramonet, and for those who are particularly attached to their wines and work, it is occasionally referred to as Andre Ramonet. But before we get to Andre, we owe his father some acknowledgement. Pierre Ramonet, or "Pere Ramonet" as he was known to locals, established himself as a winemaker in Chassagne-Montrachet in the late 1920's with little more than the shirt on his back and the desire to make wine. As his grandson put it, "He started from nothing, with horses." From his start making wine in makeshift facilities with purchased grapes, Ramonet gradually assembled an estate from scratch, buying a piece of Chassagne-Montrachet here, a piece of Puligny-Montrachet there (the two villages that make up the Montrachet appellation are adjacent to one another). His first purchase in 1934 was a small piece of the "Les Ruchottes" vineyard which he and his son Andre would go on to make famous.

It's worth noting that the process of scraping together vineyard plots in what is arguably France's most famous white wine appellation is not just something that scrappy, up-and-coming winemakers did in the early part of the 20th century. The total acreage in the Grand Cru Montrachet appellation is about 20. Yes, a mere 20 acres, which is currently split among roughly 16 producers. Even Romanée-Conti, which is about as high on the Burgundy totem pole as you can get, owns a mere 1.7 acres of this appellation, which it had to acquire painstakingly over the course of multiple purchases spanning three decades. 

In any case, the Ramonets have been making wine in the region since grandpa Ramonet kicked off the operation in the late Twenties, and it has been in the family ever since. Pierre Ramonet's son Andre achieved near legendary status as a winemaker (hence the use of his first name when people speak of the domaine), and it's not untypical to hear words like "genius" "mythic" and "pinnacle" thrown around when he comes up in conversation. Now Andre is the grandfather, and the estate is being run by his sons Noël and Jean-Claude.

These two continue to run the estate in the tradition of their father and grandfather. The average age of the vines in their vineyards, especially the Grand Cru vineyards is about 60 years. There are areas, however that are planted with younger vines, but in a strict regimen, fruit from vines under 18 years old is excluded from the Domain's cuvees. Yields are kept extremely low, and the wines are vinified using traditional techniques. The wines are aged on their lees (with all the seeds and pulp from pressing) in varying proportions of new oak depending on the wine for between 12 and 15 months.

This wine is from a Premiere Cru vineyard in the Chassagne-Montrachet called "La Boudriotte" or sometimes "Clos de La Boudriotte." The Ramonets produce both this Chardonnay from the vineyard, as well as a Pinot Noir which often goes unnoticed and unremarked given the fame of their white wines.

Chevalier Montrachet 2006, Domaine Leflaive

Litt oksidasjon i nese med toner av brent smør og mye fat. Eldste vin i rekka ? Mye trøkk med brun frukt, epleskrott og honning. Høy modenhet med bra lengde. En kraftplugg, men mangler eleganse. Premox sier Are. 91 poeng. Medtatt av Roar.

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