søndag 4. mai 2014

Pol Roger Winston Churchill 1998

Vinmøte Jon 22.4.14

Champagne V.O. Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, Jacques Selosse

Bløt, flat og oksidert. Moden med mye smak. Vinøs og oksidativ. Vanskelig å vurdere. Retur flaske. Ikke vurdert.

Wine Advocate November, 2011 If Initial can be described as feminine, the NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru V.O. (Version Originale) is decidedly masculine. Here the fruit shows off remarkable depth and muscle, with deep, burnished tones that add complexity and weight to a dense, structured, yet plush expression of Chardonnay. The wine literally covers every inch of the palate with layers of mineral-drenched fruit. This is a fabulous showing for the Version Originale. Disgorged October 20, 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. Robert Parker''s Wine Advocate 30/11/2012 Selosse’s NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru V.O. represents an attractive middle ground in range. It isn’t as bright as the Initial, nor is it as complex as the Substance. Hazelnuts, dried pears, honey and crushed flowers come alive in the glass, but the aromas and flavors are really quite secondary to the wine’s incredible textural depth and  richness. Generous and inviting, the V.O. is another superb wine. This release is a blend of vintages 2003, 2004 and 2005 all from Avize, Cramant and Oger. The fruit, from hillside parcels, and the extended bottle both contribute significantly to the wine’s personality. Disgorgement date: October 27, 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Despite all of the acclaim and recognition Anselme Selosse has received over the years, he continues to push the envelope of what Champagne is and can be. The new lieu-dit Champagnes, which now encompass six different bottlings – all of them multi-vintage blends – are off the charts, but frankly, so are the rest of the wines.Selosse fans might also want to consider a stay at Les Avizes, the hotel Anselme Selosse and his wife Corinne recently opened in Avize, which is probably the best way to visit this iconic producer. This set of wines opens with the superb NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Version Originale, a blend of 2002, 2001 and 2000 juice from Avize and Cramant. The wine reveals an extraordinary array of honey, cloves and candied orange peel in what is an unctuous, full-bodied style at the outset. The wine turns more delicate in the glass, with notes of minerals and spices that come forward. The rich texture and slightly oxidative notes make this a wonderfully complete wine to enjoy now and over the next few years. The Originale is made from hillside vineyards, and Selosse describes the wine as vertical, but to me the expression of fruit is linear and focused. The dosage is 1.2 grams per liter and this bottle was disgorged on October 23, 2007 Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014. Readers will need to drop all preconceived notions about what Champagne is and can be in order to fully experience the wines of Anselme and Corinne Selosse, as these are Champagnes like no other. No one has pushed the boundaries of what Champagne can be further than Selosse. As great as his own wines are, Selosse’s most lasting legacy may very well be influencing the younger generation of producers who have worked alongside him over the years. For the last six years Selosse has been absent from the US market and his wines virtually impossible to obtain, but thankfully that is starting to change. Selosse represents the most poetic voice behind the idea that Champagne is first and foremost a wine before it is anything else. Selosse takes this one step further by eschewing vintage designations for most of his wines, as the qualities he seeks to exalt most are those of his 7.5 vineyards in Avize, Cramant, Oger, Le Mesnil, Ay, Mareuil-sur- Ay and Ambonnay. The various cuvees are assembled barrel by barrel based on how the wines taste to Selosse, rather than through technical analysis and/or predetermined selection of sites, parcels, etc. Selosse’s newest wine is a solera-style Champagne from the famed Le Mesnil vineyard, perhaps the most storied site in all of Champagne. I tasted the first vintage, the 2003, which will ultimately be blended with subsequent vintages to form a solera-style Champagne. It was superb. I also tasted similar solera-style wines from Avize, Cramant, Le Mesnil, Mareuil-sur- Ay and Ambonnay from barrel, all of which were compelling. The Selosse Champagnes possess extraordinary aromatics and a very fine mousse that is the result of density and richness in the fruit. With a few minutes in the glass, the bubbles will completely disappear from most of the wines. These Champagnes are best enjoyed with food, and should be served in generous white wine glasses rather than the customary flutes, which will allow for the full range of the wines’ aromas and flavors to emerge. Simply put, these are among the most monumental, profound wines being made anywhere, but like a great novel, painting or symphony, the greatest enjoyment and purest pleasure awaits those who engage the wines fully. (92) (94)

Champagne Sir Winston Churchill 1998, Pol Roger

Mere mousse, ivrig og intens. På den slanke siden, elegant med et litt surt og kledelig bitt på slutten av smakskurven.Noe sødme i midtparti, Henriot mente Are. Noe uenighet om en tørket frukttone dro ned eller ikke. Noe tanniner fra skall. En stor champagne fra en middels årgang. Litt skuffene mht. pris og cuvee.     90-92 poeng.

Dosage: 10.5 g/l
Churchill's relationship with Pol Roger dates back to 1945, although he had been a loyal customer as far back as 1908. At a luncheon given by the British ambassador to France after the liberation of Paris, Churchill met the charming and captivating Odette Pol-Roger and began a friendship, indulged by his wife Clementine, which lasted until Sir Winston's death in 1965. Each year on his birthday, Odette would send him a case of vintage champagne. In honour of his friendship, Churchill named one of his favourite racehorses after her, and made sure that she was invited to lunch at the British embassy every time he was in Paris. Despite never actually visiting 44 Avenue de Champagne, Churchill proclaimed it "the most drinkable address in the world". So close was his relationship with the family that, on Churchill's death, Pol Roger put black-bordered labels on the bottles destined for the UK. In 1975, Pol Roger went one step further and named their prestige cuvée after him, making it in the robust, mature style that he liked so much.
The exact composition of this Cuvée is a family secret but it is likely that Pinot Noir dominates 70-80% of the blend with the rest being Chardonnay. The grapes are all from Grand Cru vineyards which were under vine during Churchill’s lifetime and it is only made in the very best vintages. The 1998 vintage shows all the hallmarks of a truly outstanding year with high natural sugar content in the grapes and an excellent level of acidity indicating an exceptional overall balance and long ageing potential.
Given its youth the wine still holds a lot in reserve but it has a masculine structure and phenomenal length.

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