torsdag 21. februar 2019

Cornas & Cote Rotie 2006

Generalforsamling Vinklubben 1. juni 2018





Cote Rotie Brune et Blonde 2006,  E. Guigal
Mørk og stringent, innesluttet og litt skråstilt. Skriker etter mat. Mer solid enn 2007. 92 poeng


Cote Rotie 2006, Jamet
Tørr og streng, syrlige tyttebær. Bør lagres ? En typisk og litt vanskelig uforløst Jamet. 92 poeng.

Knut Kleiven mai 2015: 
2006 Domaine Jamet Cote-Rotie: Peppar, kjøtt og animalsk på nase. Som å bli slått av en moden ytrefillet i trynet (dette er positivt om nokon skulle vere i tvil), fruktig og fresh i munn, rå, upolert...men under ligger det mykje i framtida. Stålande tanninstruktur som har mykje å tære på i åra som kjem. Mektig oppstramming med luft. Lang. Deilig, fersk syrah. Neste flaske bør få 5 år.



Cornas Chaillot 2006, Allemand
En mere moden og søt frukt enn de andre i rekka. Bjørnbær, rik og kommer man over flasker fra produsenten er rådet: KJØP ! 92 poeng

Clape, Chave & Guigal 2007

Generalforsamling Vinklubben 1. juni 2018


Fra drinkrhone.com:
2007, 1997 – two vintages with some drought stress in the vineyard, and ones that fly low on winelovers’ radar. The wines when young were not a real ensemble

Cornas 2007, Clape
Sursøt og klassisk, kan fortsatt lagres. En overraskende solid 2007. 93 poeng

Hermitage 2007, Jean Louis Chave
Fantastisk god munnfølelse og ekstrem harmonisk. Knut startet på 100, men nedjusterte til 98 poeng ! Drikker optimalt nå og en stor vin. 95 poeng

Cote Rotie Brune et Blonde 2007, E. Guigal
Moden og frisk i frukten. Igjen overraskende god for årgangen. Kan det være at Guigal ønsker å lage en mer typisl "Guigal-vin" enn en vin som representerer årgangen ? 92 poeng

onsdag 20. februar 2019

Cote Rotie & Hermitage 1999

Generalforsamling Vinklubben 1. juni 2018



Cote Rotie Chateau d`Ampuis 1999, E. Guigal
Moden og mørk frukt. Synes denne var mer eika tidligere; nå fremstår vinen med vital og ungdommelig ren frukt. Med relativ polert for en CR. 92 poeng

Fra winethomas:

Château d’Ampuis is produced by grapes from seven of their own vineyards, Le Clos, La Garde, and La Grande Plantée in Côte Blonde, as well as La Pommière, Le Pavillon Rouge, Le Moulin (not to be confused with La Mouline!), and La Viria in Côte Brune. This means that Château d’Ampuis also is a “Brune et Blonde wine”. This wine was added to the Guigal range from the 1995 vintage, at which time the three LaLa wines had been in existence for a number of years. I assume that with a high demand for the top wines and an increased price difference between the basic Brune et Blonde and the LaLas, it seemed reasonable (and made economic sense) to use the second-best vineyards to produce a wine of higher quality than Brune et Blonde (and sell it at a higher price), rather than to blend these grapes into the Brune et Blonde, where various purchased grapes are also used. The wine’s name has been taken from the building in Ampuis where Guigal is located. Until the 2004 vintage, the wine consisted of six vineyards, and from the 2005 vintage La Viria was also added. There has been rumours that La Viria eventually may become Guigal’s fourth LaLa wine, but for now it is included in the blend that makes up Château d’Ampuis. The production has varied between 20 000 and 37 000 bottles the last six vintages (2004-2009) for an average of just under 30 000 bottles.
Most of Guigal’s wines are characterised by long time in oak and a substantial proportion of new oak barrels being used, 38 months on new oak in the case of Château d’Ampuis, and of the grapes being harvested late. The proportion of Viognier in Château d’Ampuis is given as 5% until the 2004 vintage and as 7% from the 2005 vintage (of a maximum allowed 20%), which is slightly more than for Brune et Blonde (4%), the same as for La Turque (7%) and slightly less than for La Mouline (11%). All Viognier used for Château d’Ampuis is grown in the Côte Blonde vineyards.
As to the style of the wines, I must quote the brick-sized tome The Wines of the Northern Rhône (2005) by John Livingstone-Learmonth, where he summarised Guigal’s five Côte-Rôtie wines with the words “none of these is typical Côte-Rôtie – they are Guigal Côte-Rôties”. On the other hand, Guigal is by far the largest producer in Côte-Rôtie, so in a way the wines of Guigal are in a way representative of Côte-Rôtie, even if the wines of other producers show more obvious “Côte-Rôtie signs” that would make them in one way more typical. The Guigal wines often have sweet fruit, but not that much of green or herbaceous notes, they pack concentration on the palate and come across as less tart or acid-dominated than many other wines. They do have plenty of tannins, but they are often well embedded in the fruit. The spice notes are definitely there – we are after all talking about Northern Rhône Syrah – but the wines aren’t quite as peppery as some of the rest. Similar to most other Côte-Rôties, the wines are flowery and aromatic, but this character originates both from the Syrah grapes and from the generous use of oak. Considering how Guigal has been able to expand their production, and the high scores given to their wines, their style has been quite popular.

Hermitage La Chapelle 1999, Paul Jaboulet
Snill og bløt, men vinen holder seg godt. Dette var vel en av de siste gode årgangene av "La Chapelle" 91 poeng

Cote Rotie 1999, Jamet
En helt annen friskhet i munn og nese. Rå potet, rypeblod og en ivrig vin. Kan fremdeles ligge. 92 poeng

Roar serverte også denne i vinmøte september 2018:
Cote Rotie 1999, Jamet
En deilig moden CR. Frisk, har mistet endel klassisk sursødme. God flaske. 92-94 poeng


onsdag 13. februar 2019

Cathiard Aux Malconsorts & Cheval Blanc


Vinmøte Roar 27. september 2018


Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière 1998, Domaine G. Roumier
En moden burgund, litt generisk og kjedelig flat i uttrykket. Sliten allerede. Men jeg har egentlig aldri blitt imponert av vinen. 89 poeng

Tom H sier følgende etter en smaking av denne vinen i flere årganger:
2004 var i ferd med å starte nedturen, men gav god drikkeglede med en gang, 89p.
-05 var en gedigen skuffelse, og flasken kan ikke ha vært korrekt, N/R.
Derimot var 07 nær perfekt moden med rød frukt og jordlige undertoner, deilig vin - 92 poeng.
2008 var WOTN, perfekt moden med jordlige toner, nedslipte tanniner og balansert syre, 93p. Kanskje den beste røde -08 jeg har smakt.
2009 var for ung, dette blir litt mye søtladen frukt, men vil nok vinne på ytterligere kjellertid, nå 90 p.
2010 hadde dagens nese! pinot essens, røde bær, granateple, litt tobakk, godt strukturert vin med bra lengde. Trekker litt for et litt hult midtparti.
2012 opplever jeg som stengt, men også usikker på om dette kan holde!
-13 fremstår som stilkete, grov og undermoden - vin for selvpinere!
2014 hadde kanskje kveldens nese sammen med -10?besnærende med rødfrukt og tonn med krydder. Viser også antydning til modning med en farge som gir hint i den retningenen.
2015 er lang, ren, fruktig med en lett steinbitterhet i avsluttningen. Bra konsentrasjon, men dette trenger selvsagt tid.
2016 er noe reduktiv til tross for at den ble dobbeldekantert 12 timer før smakingen! Vinen har saftig rødbærsfrukt, mynte og et teft av pipetobakk. Flott fruktkvalitet - dette blir svært bra om noe år, 93p nå.





Cote Rotie 1999, Jamet
En deilig moden CR. Frisk, har mistet endel klassisk sursødme. God flaske. 92-94 poeng



Chateau Figeac 1982, St. Emilion
Korket, ikke vurdert








Chateau Cheval Blanc 1986, St. Emilion
Ikke så gal erstatningsvin når Figeac`en var korka !  Solid, grønn, kald og klassisk Cabernet Franc. En time i karaffel hadde gjort seg ! Noe vegetalsk og det ble litt uenighet mht. poeng. 92-94 poeng. Kim hadde en flaske i januar19 som var stunning (97p)






Vosne-Romanèe "aux Malconsorts" 2011, Domaine S. Cathiard

Krydret og rik frukt, overraskende frempå og likandes for en årgang som ofte får et grønt og vegetalt preg. Ung og bør lagres. 93 poeng.

Fra winehog:
One of the most acclaimed 1er crus made in Vosne-Romanee is the Aux Malconsorts from Domaine Sylvain Cathiard.
The quality of the Cathiard wines has improved rapidly over the last dacade, and with Sebastien Cathiard in charge since the 2011 vintage, Cathiard is now among the very very best producers in Vosne-Romanee.
IMG_4057.JPG
Photo: Sebastian Cathiard – Domaine Cathiard
In my view the Malconsorts is sort of a signature wine for this fine domaine … yes I know the RSV is better … but it’s still possible to find and pay for the Malconsort and experience the Cathiard magic.
Early history of Vosne-Romanee Malconsorts
Some sources indicate that the Les Malconsorts vineyard was established relatively late – as it was transformed from scrubland to vineyard in 16107. According to the Burgundian etymologist Marie-Hélène Landrieu-Lussigny the name Mal-consorts refers to “a patch of ground covered with thorny brush that is difficult to clear”6. There is however also, according to Allen Meadows, evidence that a part of Malconsorts was established already in 1482 …
Despite the name and the previous vegetation – Lavalle1 (1855) considered Les Malconsorts to be among the very best vineyards in Vosne-Romanne – giving it a “Premiere Cuvee” rating along with Romanee Saint-Vivant, Les Gaudichots, La Grande Rue, Les Verroilles sous Richebourg , Les Beaux-Monts, Combe Brulee, Aux Brulees and Les Suchots. Quite many of these are now classified as grand cru.
The names Les Malconsorts and Aux Malconsorts are currently both being used for wines from this vineyard. It is not to be confused with the Au-dessus des Malconsorts – a 1.08 ha vineyard located just above Malconsorts.
The area of Malconsorts seem to have been relatively stable over the years – the current area of 5.86 ha is just marginally lover than the area (5 ha, 94 ares and 95 cents) mentioned by Lavalle in 1855.
Aux Malconsort is located just south of the mighty La Tâche on the border to Nuits-Saint-Georges – see map below, where the Cathiard plot is indicated with a red dot.

The current ownership on Aux Malconsorts

The Cathiard plot on Malconsorts is located in the top middle part of the vineyard – no 4 on the map below. The plot is 0.7435 ha, and is north of the plot of Hudelot-Noellat and south of one of the plots owned by the Montille family.
20140609-120746-43666962.jpg
Below is list over the current owners on Aux Malconsorts corresponding to the numbers on the map:
  1. Domaine du Clos Frantin (Albert Bichot) – 1.7766 ha
  2. Domaine Montille – 1.3700 ha
  3. Domaine Dujac – 1.3313 ha
  4. Domaine Sylvain Cathiard – 0.7435 ha
  5. Domaine Lamarche – 0.4999 ha
  6. Domaine Hudelot Noellat – 0.1370 ha

The Cathiard plot was according to Clive Coates acquired from a Felix Noëllat in 19709 – and was replanted in 1972. This makes sense since the plot is located next to the Hudelot-Noellat plot … which also originates from the Noëllat holdings.

torsdag 7. februar 2019

1999


Vinmøte Roar 27. september 2018

Se hva Galloni sier om årgangen i Piemonte:
1999 Barolo: Brilliance, Intensity and Class
A light snow fell as I drove up the winding hillsides of La Morra on a dark, shrouded evening in March 2003. I had never seen snow at that time of the year in Piedmont, but fortunately it wasn't too bad. A business trip in Genoa that week provided a good excuse to escape to La Morra for the night. I was more than happy to make the two and half hour commute each way just to spend some time in these magical hillsides.
Elio Altare's Insieme group was putting on a tasting of the 1999 Barolos at the Cantina Comunale in the center of town. I had already tasted many of the wines on previous trips, but this was my first large tasting of the 1999s. As I walked from table to table I was blown away by what I tasted. The 1999 Barolos were simply stunning. I just loved the energy and tension of what I sampled. The wines were so alive. I knew right then that 1999 was going to be a great vintage for Barolo.
Barolo as seen from the Ravera vineyard in Novello
As the months passed, very little was said or written about the 1999 vintage in Barolo or Piedmont. All the attention was on the 2000s. I had tasted plenty of those wines too, and they were gorgeous, especially from barrel. No doubt about it. But the 1999s had something more. More power, intensity, structure, and, most important of all, a quality I have always been taught to seek in Nebbiolo; namely the ability of a wine to convey something about where it is from.
The next year, I started Piedmont Report, largely inspired by the 1999 Barolos, and my steadfast belief that there was space for another voice on Italian wines in light of how much this vintage was either overlooked or lumped in with Barbaresco and the rest of Piedmont. It was clear the 1999 Barolos were fabulous and quite different in both personality and quality than the 1999 Barbarescos. Issue 7 of Piedmont Report, published in May 2006, featured a comprehensive look at the wines.
Rocche dell’Annunziata as seen from Torriglione
Fast forward to today. The 1999s are just as magnificent as they were at the outset. A warm spring led to a growing season of mostly balanced weather and a normal to slightly late harvest. Barolo was not hit with the hail that was so troublesome in Barbaresco, which is one of the main reasons 1999 is a much more consistently outstanding vintage in Barolo.
Two brilliant 1999 Barolos
As a group, the 1999 Barolos are not as austere as the 1996s, the closest vintage in style in the 1990s. Although powerful and structured, the 1999s have begun to soften and are now drinking beautifully. A few wines need a little more bottle age, but they are in the distinct minority. Of course, the best examples will continue to develop in bottle for years to come. Readers who bought the 1999s upon release or shortly thereafter are going to be thrilled. There can be little doubt today that 1999 is a magnificent Barolo vintage.
-- Antonio Galloni





Barolo Pie Rupestris Otin Fiorin 1999, Cappellano
Vandig kant i en utviklet stil. Ren, kirsebær med touch av varm rosin i finish. Moderat struktur, mer en Barbaresco enn en Barolo. 91 poeng

                                             

                                                

Barolo Vigna Rionda 1999, Massolino
Tydelig og erketypisk nebbe med ubønnhørlig syrlig Serralungafrukt. Mørk, begynnende modning mot lettere toner av jordbær og en kledelig sødme. Drikker godt nå. 93 poeng.

Vi drakk denne i vinmøte hos Kim september 2015;

Barolo Vigna Rionda Massolino 1999
Jeg blir ofte imponert av 99 årgangens syrenivå og friskhet, men begynner den nå å vise svakhetstegn ? Har mistet litt spenst og saftighet. Denne virker moden og har et lite snev av slapphet. Mangler energien som jeg forbinder med årgangen. Kan og bør drikkes framover. Ikke sikker på om dette var en optimal flaske. 91 poeng





Barbaresco Chrichêt Pajè 1999, Roagna
Tørr, karakterfull nebbe, mineralsk og saltaktig med en fremdeles tøff struktur. Tørrer litt i finish og bør drikkes. 94 poeng.




Chianti Classico Riserva Monsanto 1999,  Il Poggio
Melkaktig frukt, fremstår med mer bløt frukt enn de andre i rekka. Tilgjengelig og snill. 90 poeng